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Messages - KC7NOA

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1
Engines / Re: Lister ts3 white smoke
« on: June 26, 2025, 06:35:22 AM »
its great to hear that the change to the original improved it all ...

dont know ... might be not as atomized or need to be adjusted on timing with teh newer injectors ...
id keep the new ones but run the old ones untill they are shot.
depends on how much work you want to do ...


2
Engines / Re: Lister ts3 white smoke
« on: June 22, 2025, 05:11:53 PM »
leaking rings does not make for lack of compression to ignition ... but can.

i wonder about the injectors installed ...
i missed that you seem to have replaced them with "superseed" ...
they had good mist and proper brakeover? done by a profesinal is good .. im just asking if you seen the spray yourself.

the smoke is white .. then you state blue ...

iv always thought that white is a presence of water ( or an alcohol additive to the fuel )
Blue is motor oil or possibly unburnt fuel ..
black is definitely unburnt fuel ...

9kw seems abit heavy for a 3 cylinder .. but i guess it fine, i only have a SR2A(5kw) and a SL4 (10kw)...


3
Engines / Re: Lister ts3 white smoke
« on: June 18, 2025, 04:09:45 PM »
did you check the bore of the cylinders and the rings on the pistons?
Kinda sounds like motor oil burn

4
Engines / Re: LPWS3 idle in gear problem
« on: June 04, 2025, 04:09:37 PM »
when the injectors were out ...
was the compression checked?
De-coked recently?

could be that one of the fuel pump lobes has worn more than its friends and at low demands is more noticeable.

or just a spring that has lost some of its temper and the rpm's are not stable at idle ...
or the prop is worn and one of the blades is catching less water ( i kinda doubt )

video to help explain what you mean by struggle ....

yea, it gets quiet some times in the forum ....

5
Engines / Re: Lister D crank pin orientation
« on: May 22, 2025, 08:19:22 PM »
did you find a a manual for it?

6
Engines / Re: lister 38/4
« on: May 22, 2025, 08:17:56 PM »
every one loves pictures

7
Engines / Re: SL4 SL rack
« on: April 03, 2025, 05:20:29 PM »
the motor is not taken apart yet,
iv just got it running last fall, then went on to remove what was left of the air cooling duct .. it was half rusted away

and when that was finally removed i was abit shocked to see a head/sleeve bold looking half rusted away ...
i was looking for a leak , call it like a bubbling sound after the motor was stopped.

im planning on getting back to working on the motor since the snow has melted and all ...

im wondering if there are USA sources or if ebay or old timer engines is my source for a short head bolt

8
Engines / Re: SL4 SL rack
« on: April 03, 2025, 04:41:39 AM »
how much can a head bolt be rusted before its suspect?
What I mean is that I see a bolt that it about half way rusted through and I'm wondering if it's now compromised and even worse might break when trying to remove/replace it

9
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: March 20, 2025, 05:31:27 AM »

Hi all ...
still working ... replaced the 220V plug and run a tig MMA as a stick welder with no problems on the lister

Im wondering what the injector pump cam that runs the pump cam lift is ...

10
Engines / Re: Lister LD - First steps to get old engine running
« on: December 15, 2024, 05:14:58 PM »
might be clogged injectors .. or the injector pump isnt actually working ..
crack open the injector outlet and see if fuel is there .. in pulses ...

11
Engines / Re: Rebuilding a 2 cylinder Lister dumper engine
« on: November 27, 2024, 05:23:39 PM »
first is to check the fuel rack that runs through the fuel pump .. if it moves freely, thats good. ..

check the filters if it has any and clean if necessary .. or replace.

check decompression lever .. does it open exhaust valve so that you can turn motor through all 4 strokes fairly easily ...

crack open the fuel pump to fuel injectors line and spin the motor ... getting fuel leaking out --- i would hope so, but if not .. find out why.

i think there is more ..  but ill stop here .. there is a check list here somewhere on the forum i think


12
Engines / Re: Lister LD - First steps to get old engine running
« on: November 21, 2024, 06:58:06 PM »
is it a constant speed setup ( with generator that is now removed ) or variable speed(rpm)?

If the rack can move fairly freely -- with the run/speed control set to off .... its probably ok to try to start ...
i would remove the air filter if it had one and prepped to choke off the air intake with a block of wood or similar to shut down the motor it is wanted to run away --- high rpm.
a fuel shut off is not fast enough to starve it if it is running away ...






13
Engines / Re: ST3 Fuel leaking from injector pump identification help
« on: November 21, 2024, 06:32:31 PM »
i dont know of any videos to properly take them out ...


all i know is that you dont want to bend the rack any ...
the cotter pins that are bent around to hold the interlink pins will most likely break so you should source them -- i used pins out of a mix set from Orilleys ....

i dont have a way to test the pump at my place ... iv seen a home made stup on you tube , the guy used a press and some fittings and a pressure gauge to check the injector trigger pressure .. but i bet the same setup can be used to check for leakage -- doing a leak down test .. just pressuize and wait a bit fto see if the pressure drops durring a set time -- and i have no idea what time duration that would be but i would guess two minuets ....

14
Engines / Re: ST3 Fuel leaking from injector pump identification help
« on: November 17, 2024, 08:10:26 PM »
if its one of the pumps .. you might need to replace it .. or get a replacement piston .. i dont remember seeing any seals when i took mine apart to clean the shalacked ( is that a word ? ) diesel that was gummed up in mine ( rust too ) ...

I would hope that the piston is softer than the body of teh pump ... i dont know.

15
Engines / Re: ST3 Fuel leaking from injector pump identification help
« on: November 17, 2024, 06:34:15 PM »
hi ..
you could try getting all the copper seals replaced .. or pull them all and soften them yourself ... polish flat on glass,
there might be a crack in one of them from being over tightened ...
or a crack in one of the fuel lines ...

you can also get a fuel pump and pressurize teh fuel and let it run for a while ( i mean teh electric fuel pump -- not the motor )... it should flow through teh return

as an idea i just had .. when electric pump is running ... tie strips of paper towel in various places, looking for a slow collection of diesel if you cant see the leak

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