its great to hear that the change to the original improved it all ...

dont know ... might be not as atomized or need to be adjusted on timing with teh newer injectors ...
id keep the new ones but run the old ones untill they are shot.
depends on how much work you want to do ...

did you check the bore of the cylinders and the rings on the pistons?
Kinda sounds like motor oil burn

did you find a a manual for it?

the motor is not taken apart yet,
iv just got it running last fall, then went on to remove what was left of the air cooling duct .. it was half rusted away

and when that was finally removed i was abit shocked to see a head/sleeve bold looking half rusted away ...
i was looking for a leak , call it like a bubbling sound after the motor was stopped.

im planning on getting back to working on the motor since the snow has melted and all ...

im wondering if there are USA sources or if ebay or old timer engines is my source for a short head bolt

Hi all ...
still working ... replaced the 220V plug and run a tig MMA as a stick welder with no problems on the lister

Im wondering what the injector pump cam that runs the pump cam lift is ...

first is to check the fuel rack that runs through the fuel pump .. if it moves freely, thats good. ..

check the filters if it has any and clean if necessary .. or replace.

check decompression lever .. does it open exhaust valve so that you can turn motor through all 4 strokes fairly easily ...

crack open the fuel pump to fuel injectors line and spin the motor ... getting fuel leaking out --- i would hope so, but if not .. find out why.

i think there is more ..  but ill stop here .. there is a check list here somewhere on the forum i think

i dont know of any videos to properly take them out ...


all i know is that you dont want to bend the rack any ...
the cotter pins that are bent around to hold the interlink pins will most likely break so you should source them -- i used pins out of a mix set from Orilleys ....

i dont have a way to test the pump at my place ... iv seen a home made stup on you tube , the guy used a press and some fittings and a pressure gauge to check the injector trigger pressure .. but i bet the same setup can be used to check for leakage -- doing a leak down test .. just pressuize and wait a bit fto see if the pressure drops durring a set time -- and i have no idea what time duration that would be but i would guess two minuets ....

hi ..
you could try getting all the copper seals replaced .. or pull them all and soften them yourself ... polish flat on glass,
there might be a crack in one of them from being over tightened ...
or a crack in one of the fuel lines ...

you can also get a fuel pump and pressurize teh fuel and let it run for a while ( i mean teh electric fuel pump -- not the motor )... it should flow through teh return

as an idea i just had .. when electric pump is running ... tie strips of paper towel in various places, looking for a slow collection of diesel if you cant see the leak