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Messages - olNick

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Old post, I know...

In the same boat here, #2 roller is square and beat up since it was not indexed by the adjuster/locknut, it was rotating in the bore. The other roller is ok...

Question on clearance though, I'm getting 10.1 mm ID on both rollers, no seeming wear.
The pins are 9.5mm, or 0.374" on the ends where there is no wear (the part that presses into the follower body). The center of the pin is quite worn...

This gives a clearance of about 0.024", which seems excessive to me. Is this normal?

I would have expected about 3-4 thou clearance, large enough to let oil in there, but not enough to "pound" around there.

Anyone comment, as I will be machining at least one roller. The pins are worn but seem like a standard 3/8 dowel pin

FWIW, here's a pic of said roller

Everything else / A bit on journal bearings
« on: April 28, 2022, 12:31:55 PM »

Original Lister Cs Engines / HOYT #14 Babbitt composition/suitability
« on: April 26, 2022, 08:12:10 AM »
Anyone the composition of HOYT #14 babbitt, or white metal, and would it be appropriate to line big end bearing shells?


General Discussion / Re: Welding from a Listeroid/ST generator rig
« on: April 14, 2022, 11:21:27 AM »

Bit further on this, FWIW, my first shotgun repair attempt (simply replacing the IGBT's), lasted about 5 seconds before blowing up, since I did not check that I had pwm drive, before enabling the HV (SMPS-101 lessons here)

I bit the bullet, and read up to understand how inverters/SMPS work. Poking around I found that GDT had shorted/opened I don't remember.
Replacing that transformer brought back the PWM, and the thing started working again, with new transistors

The welder is/was quite advanced for a early 90's design, with a very high duty cycle. Specifically stated 8KVA generator minimum, my bad..
The "6KVA" chinese honda that did the damage, essentially almost stalled at that time...

anyway, I don't qualify for even 2nd group above, ha...

Everything else / Re: Antique generator control unit
« on: April 14, 2022, 10:51:16 AM »
Hi Bob,

I have the same Ammeter (works) and frequency meter which does not since I don't have the sender/sensor.
Any chance of you poking around as to what's required, how it's wired?


General Discussion / Re: Welding from a Listeroid/ST generator rig
« on: April 13, 2022, 11:19:41 AM »

After cooking an expensive inverter welder connected to "cheesy" generators, I found that what kills them, at least in my case is the sudden voltage drop that occurs when striking a real arc (120-150A), tacking is ok...

This AC drop is enough to momentarily lose the 12V logic voltage so the welder is running w/o the control circuit, i.e. no PWM of the current.

I believe that it's a tossup as to which IGBT side clamps ON, thus full current, thus meltdown.

Maybe this could be remedied w/ a supercap or something in the control voltage PS.

Never, ever had a problem w/ my "real" 2 cyl DEUTZ, 6KVA, avr controlled generator. If anything it runs a lot sweeter when I'm wleding away....

Anyway, my 2c,


General Discussion / Re: Stirling engine revolution
« on: April 13, 2022, 11:00:43 AM »

I mentioned the free piston type engine, very simple in construction. Very complicated calculations needed to design.  Only two moving parts, no cranks, or bearings. Pistons are gas floated or magnetic floated. Most efficient of all concepts. The Thermoacoustic concept has NO moving parts but is a little less efficient. About 30%-35% at best, but hey, that's as good as most diesels. Good design principles are always needed, and I see a lot of amateur engineering used for testing these engines, with the expected bad numbers emerging from these tests.

The machine work and shapes are very simple. The dimensions are not simple to calculate if a viable machine is expected. All dimensions and the weights of the two moving parts are very important. Dimensional tolerances will not be extremely tight however. Material choices and assembly techniques (I.E. welding processes) will be very important. Working gas will be extremely important with high pressure helium the best.

Also, a well built free piston engine (hermetically sealed system) will last 30 years or more.

I am posting all of this info for all off gridder's out there that need a good sustainable low or no maintenance power source.

Who knows, with this virus stuff going around we might all need to live isolated in the woods like our pioneers did for a while.

Necro-revival here....
Snipped out some of your quote Strawhat.. sorry..

I cannot understand why this has never commercially been realized. This stuff was well proven in the 80's by William Beale/SUNPOWER, and showcased with their BioWatt machine for developing countries.

IIRC, 1kw electric production, ???watts heat...
60 Hz Ac
0.5 seconds to stabilize,
He really had all this shit worked out.

I'm an off-gridder and have always wanted some external combustion generator/CHP as waste combustibles are here aplenty.

I still have not seen a economically viable system yet, 25 years of looking waiting :-(
Anything I've seen was either Vapoware or calls for investors..

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS big end bearing failure analysis
« on: April 08, 2022, 11:44:25 AM »
It's not that early Butch, has "2.5" big ends...

Here's what I've calculated using some of your posts...

Got a chance to mic out the big ends on my 10/2 crank. I was mostly interested in roundness and found

P1 62.15mm and P2 62.45mm on the other pin.

I saw a post or 2 referring to 0.050", even 0.060" undersize shells, but I don't see them adverstised anywhere??

Assuming they are available, below are my calcs based on a post from 38ac on "running clearances".

This would allow off the shelf shells since my crank is still in block, one gib is refusing to come out...

62.15/25.4 = 2.4468, maximum shell 2.5005
Max Clearance  =  2.5005 -  2.4468 = 0.0537"
62.15/25.4 = 2.4468, minimum shell 2.4995
Min Clearance  =  2.4995 - 2.4468 =  0.0527"

62.45/25.4 = 2.4586, maximum shell 2.5005
Max Clearance  = 2.5005 - 2.4586 = 0.0419"
Min Clearance = 2.4995 - 2.4586 = 0.0409"

Here's where the logic is questionable....

Pin1 using an 0.050 under shell gives
max clearance 0.0537 - 0.050 = 0.0037"
and min clearance of 0.0527 - 0.050 = 0.0027"

Pin2 using an 0.040 under shell gives
max clearance  0.0419 - 0.040 = 0.0019"
and min clearance 0.0409 - 0.040 = 0.0009"

If the os shells are on the "tight" side,
Pin1 runs at 0.0027" OK?
Pin2 at 0.0009" can shim, or take lap thou of the pin

Note: I'm waiting on a kg of Tegostar to pour the bearings, so the above is more or less academic....

appreciate some feedback

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS cylinder repair
« on: April 08, 2022, 11:38:17 AM »

I just want to mention, $100 to re-sleeve and liner included sounds cheaper than dirt. Is this a for profit shop or a hobby shop?? I'd be interested to hear how the job turns out.

This is one of two auto macine shops here. If you consider 100E is anywhere  from 1/8 to 1/12 of a months salary here it's not that inexpensive, is it? OTOH, these guys have huge mark ups on parts, and that's where they cash in (40Euro for 1 single 3.5" top ring)

I was last in the US 3 years ago and was blown away with prices/cost of living, at least in the greater Boston area.

Anyway, I still need to source std. pistons as the ones I have are 116mm and I cant find rings, gasket etc.
Also, side clearance is 6-8 thou on top land...


Original Lister Cs Engines / 116 mm piston
« on: April 01, 2022, 12:46:56 PM »
Moving on to the pistons, I was surprized to find they measure right at 116mm.
Is this common, and more important are there rings available?

I will need this sorted before final boring/honing of the aformentioned sleeves.


Original Lister Cs Engines / CS big end bearing failure analysis
« on: April 01, 2022, 12:06:48 PM »
Here is the big end shell that had substantial slop in it. While difficult to measure accurately,  I'm
getting about .65 - 0.82mm clearance.

I've yet to check for runout and taper on the crank throw with a mic but with a caliper
I think that even a 0.040 under still would be too loose,

Cant believe that this was hacked like this.

total lack of oil grooves
the oil feeds of the top shell babbitted closed
delamination of babbit (could be simply lead)
bad/no tinning of shell

The other shell, IIRC had no noticeable slop, but the top oil feeds are clear on that one


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS cylinder repair
« on: March 31, 2022, 12:31:00 PM »
Hope it was understood that I've scrapped the braze/we/d/spray idea from your replies.
As 38ac said this is not the the last CS on the planet....

I re-sleeving, and thanx to all for replying...

On to the big ends... next post


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS cylinder repair
« on: March 31, 2022, 08:58:04 AM »
Thanx for all the replies.

Note that this was water damage, and not ice/frost.

Anyway, got a quote from one of the 2 machine shops here. They want about 100 bucks to re-sleeve, liner included, and about 70-80 if I supply the liners, but maybe that's not a good idea as I saw a post by 38C where if something goes wrong, it becomes a blame game...

I forgot to ask liners material, AFAIU typically it's  centrifugally spun CI.

I'm waiting for a quote on 2 liners from the big city of Athens..
Im ASSuming the cost includes finish honing to the existing piston.

I have to assess the second liner and see...


BTW did anyone see my post wrt Laystall?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Laystal liners
« on: March 29, 2022, 12:49:09 PM »
Hi again,

Do Laystal liners still make chrome liners for the CS? Any experiences here?

I saw this post and wonder if I could get a clarification, reply 20 by listard-jp2



Original Lister Cs Engines / CS cylinder repair
« on: March 29, 2022, 12:20:29 PM »
Hi all,

This cylinder is from my early 10/2 that I've finally started work on.
There is a fairly deep (~2mm) ridge from water damage I'm guessing. The ridge is about 5 inches down the bore.

While I know about re-sleeving, could this ridge be brazed with bronze or brass? and then bored and honed to size.
Cook the cylinder on the BBQ and the braze...

I'd like to keep the chrome on the cylinder as much as possible. The other cylinder seems to be fine.

I would also think that 5 inches down the bore the is minimal combustion pressure, temp as, IIRC, the power stroke ends at about 50* in a 4 stroke...

I am also contacting a firm here that can spray the ID and finish to size..
They say they can spray whatever metal is desired (e.g. chrome based) etc...

PS This will be a working machine

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