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Messages - Powdermonkey

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Listeroid Engines / Re: RPM ISSUE ON LISTER CS. INDIA
« on: August 26, 2021, 04:44:04 PM »
There is perhaps too much slack in the linkage, permitting the fuel rack to wander.  I fixed this issue by drilling a SMALL hole through the end of the fuel rack, on the filter side of the fuel rack.  Placed a SMALL hook-spring through the hole, and fastened it around the filter.  That small spring took up that slack, and prevented the rack from wandering.  Eliminated my rpm wander entirely.  PM me if you'd like pictures. 

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: May 31, 2021, 03:43:31 AM »
I'd suggest taking off the front access plate, and having a look at the dippers and connecting rods.  You'll want the oil level to be JUST below the crankshaft/connecting rods.  My 30/2 has a bolt at the top of the access plate, pointed downward.  I take the bolt out, and shove a brazing rod down into the hole to measure oil level.  For me, and my 30/2, that's 1.75 inches. 

No idea about the pump, but if you're needing a spare, you might contact DES. 

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Yep, good.  I've been noodling around with the linkages a bit, and a non-contact laser thermometer.  I'm slowly working my way towards "dead nuts" on the EGT's between the two heads. 

I've noticed that the vertical control rods (with horse-shoe collar attachments) provide 1/2 turn "tunability"...but that same vertical rod is threaded into the base linkages.  And because of that lower threading, I've got additional "tunability", at less than the 1/2 turn increments. 

As of today, I'm less than 20 degrees difference between the two heads.  But it's certainly been a bit of a battle. 

I'm familiar with the use of springs to take up the slop of the linkage system.  Got a spring on the 12/1, and it's really helped.  But on this 30/2, the frequency (RPM) of the engine is darned near always perfect.  It really doesn't float.  So, on THIS particular engine, I'm not seeing need to control 'nuffin that don't need controllin'. 

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Ran the beast today !
« on: May 26, 2021, 01:31:50 AM »
Well Folks- I don't use a coolant pump whatsoever.  Not on my 12/1, not on my 16/1, and not on my 30/2.  I thermosyphon everything.  Now, I must admit that the 30/2 could use a but more cooling capacity than a 50 gallon hot water tank.  Thus, I've commandeered an additional 50 gallon tank to double my cooling capacity. 

Keep in mind that by thermosyphoning, you're allowing natural cooling to take place, according to the rate of heat shedding.  You DO want that head up towards 180F plus.  And thermosyphoning will permit that to happen, sans some darned thermostat.  A thermostat, in terms of a Listeroid, is just a widget waiting to cause a problem. 

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Excellent Gary- Thank you.  I'll plan on some tuning fun towards the end of the week. 

As I'm researching, higher Exhaust Gas Temperatures should be caused by higher fuel delivery rates to that particular cylinder? 

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Furtherance of the 30/2:  I've been running for several weeks now.  The Disco Shaker starts up, no problem.  Even this 30/2 is simple to start. 

There were no indications of proper oil level, so Gary recommended I run it so that the oil level does not touch the crank journals.  That worked out to 1.75 inches off the bottom. 

Just to be sure I'm actually running oil pressure, I'm putting an oil pressure gauge (0-15 psi) in line with the oil pump.

The engine runs quite well, with VERY little vibration.  I'm impressed with the balance. 

Question for the group:  I'm measuring the better part of 75 degrees difference off the exhaust flange between the two heads.  That seems to me wrong.  NOTE:  This is not measured at the water jacket, but at the exhaust flange.  So....the question:  Diesel exhaust temperature...is it higher with higher compression?  Lower with more fuel delivery to a particular cylinder?  Anybody know for sure?

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Hi Folks,

I've been into Listeroids for several years now.  The 12/1 powers the house when the big Florida winds do bad things.  The 16/1 powered the off-grid building and machine shop for a few years...until the crank shaft broke...I'm picking up a true Lister 6/1 this summer from a departed friend. VERY much looking forward to it!

Now, I'm running a 30/2 Listeroid.  Gary set me up with the necessary parts, and the "Disco Shaker" is now running quite well.  The paint job is a metal flake green...thus "The Disco Shaker".

My ONLY issue is that neither Gary nor I have much information about this specific "larger unit".  Of note, I've got NO problem spinning up every morning.  Starts quite easily, so long as you're willing to SLOWLY build rpm with your right arm.  Believe it or not, a 2-cylinder of such magnitude is NOT something to be overly concerned about.  The build was straight forward, based on standard engineering principles.  One of the high pressure pumps was "dead on" for timing.  The other was VERY wrong.  But nothing that a tape measure and a few minutes of wrenching didn't fix. 

Bleeding was pretty simple. Actually, you really only need to bleed one of the lines.  If you can get one cylinder going, the other will EVENTUALLY catch!!

So...the questions:

Recommended running RPM?  I'm working a 22kw head from Tom in Georgia.  Right now, the engine is dialed in at 850 rpm.  Seems happy.  Wondering if anybody has specs on these twins, to see if I could/should chug it back to ~ 650 rpm?

Oil Fill:  Well, there are two or three small holes I could utilize to fill the crank case on this unit.  But...those holes ARE small.  Wondering if anybody has a recommendation? 

Water cooling:  I'm running a 50 gallon water tank on a thermosyphon.  After about 4 hours, she's getting warm.  Looks like I'm steaming off about 5 gallons over the course of a week.  Thinking I'll just plumb in a second 50-gallon tank on series.  Anybody got an opinion? 

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