1
Things I want to Buy / Re: Lister 6/8 single cylinder base
« on: March 24, 2026, 11:36:35 PM »
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2
Things I want to Buy / Lister 6/8 single cylinder base
« on: March 23, 2026, 11:04:16 AM »
I am looking for a LISTER (not an Indian copy) base casting. To clarify: I need the BOTTOM casting of the engine, to include the bearing housings.
Please PM me if you've got either a frozen engine, or just a base.
Please PM me if you've got either a frozen engine, or just a base.
4
Engines / Re: Wall of Shame
« on: March 17, 2026, 01:06:21 AM »
Ade- Yes. The pictures show the damage. More or less, at or above the crank bearings, everything let loose. At the time, the engine was under no strain. Just puttering along, and only really running lights. I had no "tough" load on it.
I can salvage basically the entire top end, along with the idler gear. At some point, I'll tear apart the crank, and check it for damage. But judging by what I've seen so far, it appears that it may still be good.
So, I'll be looking for an 8/1 "lower casting"....if anybody has one for sale?
I can salvage basically the entire top end, along with the idler gear. At some point, I'll tear apart the crank, and check it for damage. But judging by what I've seen so far, it appears that it may still be good.
So, I'll be looking for an 8/1 "lower casting"....if anybody has one for sale?
5
Engines / Wall of Shame
« on: March 14, 2026, 10:52:54 PM »
Well folks- I truly feel shamed in posting this, but alas....a true 8hp Dursley Lister met its maker. Not in any "less than stellar" way! I generate power off these engines. This engine was set up for slow-speed operation (around 650 RPM or so), and utilized the heavier governor weights. I'd bought if off a man in 2023 or 2024, and placed it in service in April, 2025. It ran well, with the occasional tweak and correction, as time went on.
But come the 10th of March, 2026, with the lights a glowing and ancillary electrical devices working (off the accompanying generator), I perceived a "flicker". Just half a second later, the lights went out. And right about THEN I heard (off about 50 yards or so) a loud commotion. An unearthing of un-holy hell. And then...a "thwack, thwack, thwack", thumps, losing time, like a wound out metronome. Oy.....
Well, I knew good and well that SOMETHING had happened. So, being that I didn't see smoke off yonder, I WALKED out to the generator shed. And before I got there, knowing full well that I'd be there for a while, I stopped to water the Lillies first.
Rounding the corner, I could smell oil. Hmmm.....no more "thwacking" noise. All was now quiet. Peering into the generator shed, BOY DID I SEE an amazing sight.
DID YOU KNOW THAT THE TOP END OF A 8 HP LISTER CAN LEVITATE OFF THE BOTTOM END, AND LAND SOME 5 FEET AWAY?? Well, I learned it the hard way, on the 10th of March.
Now, I'm not posting this to ask anybody's thoughts on the matter. It's more out of pure "Ripley's Believe it or Not". It's water under the bridge now, and a DAMNED SHAME to ruin a once perfectly good Lister.
But should you have any thoughts on the matter, I suppose it would be fun to conjecture....
But come the 10th of March, 2026, with the lights a glowing and ancillary electrical devices working (off the accompanying generator), I perceived a "flicker". Just half a second later, the lights went out. And right about THEN I heard (off about 50 yards or so) a loud commotion. An unearthing of un-holy hell. And then...a "thwack, thwack, thwack", thumps, losing time, like a wound out metronome. Oy.....
Well, I knew good and well that SOMETHING had happened. So, being that I didn't see smoke off yonder, I WALKED out to the generator shed. And before I got there, knowing full well that I'd be there for a while, I stopped to water the Lillies first.
Rounding the corner, I could smell oil. Hmmm.....no more "thwacking" noise. All was now quiet. Peering into the generator shed, BOY DID I SEE an amazing sight.
DID YOU KNOW THAT THE TOP END OF A 8 HP LISTER CAN LEVITATE OFF THE BOTTOM END, AND LAND SOME 5 FEET AWAY?? Well, I learned it the hard way, on the 10th of March.
Now, I'm not posting this to ask anybody's thoughts on the matter. It's more out of pure "Ripley's Believe it or Not". It's water under the bridge now, and a DAMNED SHAME to ruin a once perfectly good Lister.
But should you have any thoughts on the matter, I suppose it would be fun to conjecture....
6
Listeroid Engines / Re: Need a bit of 'excitement
« on: December 30, 2025, 12:46:12 PM »Lord Almighty....This is fundamentally easy.
Yeah, you say that.... but then when you find yourself peering into a 3"x2" (that's 75mm x 50mm for those who speak French) box with 14 black wires - all covered in something that is almost, but not quite exactly, like grease and are seemingly joined in mysterious and irresponsible ways, and wondering "Just what in hell does each wire do, and why are there FOURTEEN of them?!?!" Added complication, an original Lister generator head was often the starter motor too, so everything was doing dual duty. Even if my original Start-o-matic gen head hadn't been dropped on its head at some point (bending the shaft quite badly), it had burnt out windings too - starter windings, I think, unless the starter windings were also the excitation windings. I never got to the bottom of it, I put an ST head on & threw the old Lister unit away when I ran out of storage space.
Electronics, I can do. Mains, I can do. The theory of generators, I can do. In practice? Nah mate.
Okay....well, in THEORY, you could "jump" your own battery wires DIRECLTY to the brushes, rather than to the wires that go TO the brushes. And...you COULD try this BEFORE starting the engine and rotating assembly. It IS possible to "flash" the field in a static environment. Then, once flashed, you could immediately start the engine and see if the residual magnetism provides enough flux to again self-generate DC voltage....which in "turn" (get it?) would generate AC voltage.
7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Need a bit of 'excitement
« on: December 23, 2025, 12:50:26 AM »
Lord Almighty....This is fundamentally easy. Just understand how an electric motor or generator works. FIRST, there is a "rotor". It's the part that rotates. INSIDE the motor, there are some "brushes" that rub against a bunch of copper colored AND segmented rings. In other words, there are rings that goes around the central shaft, and they're CUT....maybe....24 times or so (just a guess as to the number).
Now....forced against THESE rings are carbon "brushes", that look like black rectangular....stubs. THESE brushes FEED a modest amount of DC voltage to this ring....AND therefore TO the rotating windings.
OCCASIONALLY, these rotating winding lose their magnetism. And when they do, you get no generator output.
SIMPLY follow the wires that attach DIRECTLY to those brushes...up into your "dog house". You'll see them terminate at a screw-on junction. Okay....
Grab ye a 6V dry cell battery, or....virtually anything else for that matter. Even a 12 V battery, if applied VERY QUICKLY, would work. Using some alligator clips and wire, temporarily touch the battery terminals TO those screw-on junctions that go directly to the brushes.
Some dispute whether you should do this WHILE the engine is turning the generator, or not. Some feel it best to "flash the field" while the motor is NOT turning. Me, I've done it BOTH ways. Static, and under rotation. Matters not to me. Both work.
You'll induce "juice" into the rotating winding, and ergo...magnetism. And in making magnetism, all the tiny elves will starting running through the stator wires, and create AC voltage. The world will rejoice, and people will again live in harmony....
(Unless of course you've got a broken winding in there....and then....your day has gone to shit. )
Now....forced against THESE rings are carbon "brushes", that look like black rectangular....stubs. THESE brushes FEED a modest amount of DC voltage to this ring....AND therefore TO the rotating windings.
OCCASIONALLY, these rotating winding lose their magnetism. And when they do, you get no generator output.
SIMPLY follow the wires that attach DIRECTLY to those brushes...up into your "dog house". You'll see them terminate at a screw-on junction. Okay....
Grab ye a 6V dry cell battery, or....virtually anything else for that matter. Even a 12 V battery, if applied VERY QUICKLY, would work. Using some alligator clips and wire, temporarily touch the battery terminals TO those screw-on junctions that go directly to the brushes.
Some dispute whether you should do this WHILE the engine is turning the generator, or not. Some feel it best to "flash the field" while the motor is NOT turning. Me, I've done it BOTH ways. Static, and under rotation. Matters not to me. Both work.
You'll induce "juice" into the rotating winding, and ergo...magnetism. And in making magnetism, all the tiny elves will starting running through the stator wires, and create AC voltage. The world will rejoice, and people will again live in harmony....
(Unless of course you've got a broken winding in there....and then....your day has gone to shit. )
8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister(oid) Concrete Base
« on: March 20, 2025, 12:54:55 AM »
Loooorrrddddd Almighty. Veggie- I have been DOWN this road. I have poured a 12-foot x 12-foot base, 10-inches THICK, to house a series of singles and twins. I have painstakingly laid out the bolts IN the concrete. I have supported them with plywood, while the concrete was curing, just to keep them straight. All, according to the printed plans for these listeroids.
I installed my first 16/1 on this concrete, and these bolts, and I tied it to a generator. And...I started the thing. And....I made power off it for several months. And....EACH time I started that 16/1, I COULD FEEL THE GROUND SHAKING, SOME 20-FEET AWAY from the engine. AND....3 of those 1/2 inch (or more) bolts sheared off from that beautiful concrete, sometime in the first several weeks of running that system.
And then, I realized....I'd better build a floating system. And so, I broke out the welder.....and that's JUST what I did.
I'll call you every dirty name in the book, if you bother to TIE THAT ENGINE down to solid concrete, without floating it on some rubber isolators. The power stroke alone is enough to wake the dead. And, there's one ass-load of them, when it comes to running a Lister......
Truly, if you need some ideas, I'd be happy to share.
I installed my first 16/1 on this concrete, and these bolts, and I tied it to a generator. And...I started the thing. And....I made power off it for several months. And....EACH time I started that 16/1, I COULD FEEL THE GROUND SHAKING, SOME 20-FEET AWAY from the engine. AND....3 of those 1/2 inch (or more) bolts sheared off from that beautiful concrete, sometime in the first several weeks of running that system.
And then, I realized....I'd better build a floating system. And so, I broke out the welder.....and that's JUST what I did.
I'll call you every dirty name in the book, if you bother to TIE THAT ENGINE down to solid concrete, without floating it on some rubber isolators. The power stroke alone is enough to wake the dead. And, there's one ass-load of them, when it comes to running a Lister......
Truly, if you need some ideas, I'd be happy to share.
9
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: 2 rebuilt British Listers
« on: November 20, 2024, 12:21:01 PM »
please see your private message
10
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: 2 rebuilt British Listers
« on: November 16, 2024, 12:29:12 AM »
ListerLover- Please send me information about the twin 16?
11
Listeroid Engines / Re: AC Motor as starter motor for a listerl(oid) ?
« on: November 10, 2024, 07:04:16 PM »
Well....it would seem to me that a bendix starter coupler could be rigged up. The question is whether the AC motor could develop the necessary torque. The 12V system works without a question. Thus....a flex plate fashioned in some way SHOULD not be difficult.
12
Listeroid Engines / Re: 16-2 Fuel Pumps
« on: November 08, 2024, 11:27:04 AM »
The fuel pump utilizes a rack and pinion to define the pump opening. You've GOT to "essentially" time the relationship of the rack, with the pinion. I used a strong flashlight, to get the rack to start at the proper time, with the pinion. Fiddle with it for a minute or two, and you'll see what I mean (while everything is apart).
I have rebuilt the Indian pumps in the past, and they're not overly difficult to time this critical feature. No dots needed. Just put the rack as close to the "closed " position as you can, while inserting the pinion through the pump body, and meshing with the rack teeth. Of course, the pinion rotation at this point should also correspond with "as close to zero" as possible.
As for the screw that goes into the side of the pump, it's the LAST thing that goes on, AFTER the rack and pinion are timed correctly.
I have rebuilt the Indian pumps in the past, and they're not overly difficult to time this critical feature. No dots needed. Just put the rack as close to the "closed " position as you can, while inserting the pinion through the pump body, and meshing with the rack teeth. Of course, the pinion rotation at this point should also correspond with "as close to zero" as possible.
As for the screw that goes into the side of the pump, it's the LAST thing that goes on, AFTER the rack and pinion are timed correctly.
13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Leaking from this hole, anyone know what I'm looking at?
« on: October 25, 2024, 01:01:35 AM »
As far as I know, the GM90's have freeze plugs at the TOP of the head...like in the oil galley area. I've had one come out before. I was easily able to find a replacement from NAPA.
Replacement is simple, but I DO use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to "help" it stay in there. Just find the appropriate socket that'll "back up" that disk, and tap it in place, with some super weatherstrip adhesive on the back side....just to make sure it doesn't leak.
Replacement is simple, but I DO use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to "help" it stay in there. Just find the appropriate socket that'll "back up" that disk, and tap it in place, with some super weatherstrip adhesive on the back side....just to make sure it doesn't leak.
14
Changfa Engines / Re: Changfa Slow Speed Experiment
« on: September 05, 2024, 11:14:37 AM »
Alright everybody- I've been noodling over buying a Changfa engine, to determine if I could make it run a generator. Seems you folks have potentially already skinned this cat.
Given- Can anybody tell me of their success or failure; running a changfa on either belt drive, or direct drive.....to 60hz for GENERATOR applications?
Given- Can anybody tell me of their success or failure; running a changfa on either belt drive, or direct drive.....to 60hz for GENERATOR applications?
15
Changfa Engines / Import worth it?
« on: August 31, 2024, 10:59:33 PM »
Folks- I received an inquiry from a Chinese company, regarding export/import of Changfa engines into the USA.
I've been a Listeroid guy for a long time....but, I'm wondering if these diesel engines are worth a try?
What about a 18hp Changfa-oid? Are the concept of these engines good and strong? Can they truly pull the weight? Seems to me....given the claimed horsepower rating, they ought to have a more substantial mounting bracket system?
I'd sure appreciate any guidance!
I've been a Listeroid guy for a long time....but, I'm wondering if these diesel engines are worth a try?
What about a 18hp Changfa-oid? Are the concept of these engines good and strong? Can they truly pull the weight? Seems to me....given the claimed horsepower rating, they ought to have a more substantial mounting bracket system?
I'd sure appreciate any guidance!