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Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter LPW3A rebuild
« on: May 14, 2021, 05:28:33 AM »
Not specifically, but I've pulled down more than a few engines.
What are ya after?
What are ya after?
Home of the Listeroid - Since 2005
News:
For those who don't know, regular poster Bob (aka Ajaffa) and his wife recently lost his house and many of their possessions (but apparently not his engines!) to a bush fire. Please see this post for details of an appeal to help him rebuild. Thanks, everyone from LEF.
https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8876.0
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Any one setup for CHP capturing your exhaust heat?
« on: May 12, 2021, 11:43:59 PM »
I had to look it up. CHP = Combined Heat and Power.
I really like the idea, since heat is typically considered a waste/byproduct, and normally just dumped...
I really like the idea, since heat is typically considered a waste/byproduct, and normally just dumped...
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Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 10, 2021, 07:55:31 AM »
Haha.
Yeah, well. Wikipedia link here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)
Talks about the vaporisation and steam.
Also it says: "...may be attributable to the water gas shift reaction, in which CO and H2O shift to form CO2 and H2"
- that is, Carbon Monoxide and Water transform to Carbon Dioxide and Hydrogen...
But nope, beggared if I can find the link I read, searching my history bar turns up naught. But you can be assured I'll post it when I find it again.
Yeah, well. Wikipedia link here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)
Talks about the vaporisation and steam.
Also it says: "...may be attributable to the water gas shift reaction, in which CO and H2O shift to form CO2 and H2"
- that is, Carbon Monoxide and Water transform to Carbon Dioxide and Hydrogen...
But nope, beggared if I can find the link I read, searching my history bar turns up naught. But you can be assured I'll post it when I find it again.
5
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ran the beast today !
« on: May 10, 2021, 07:41:00 AM »
An apropriately sized thermostat + thermosiphon setup should have no worries keeping that cool.
30 gallons?? I'm metric but that sounds like enough!
I have seen passive radiator setups on old listers - where hot water gets pushed out the top to run down over cooling plates back into a trough/reservoir.
Next for efficiency would be a belt drive viscous fan and radiator setup, but that might be over-cooling for something that's not run at heavy load all the time, but if you're boiling off a 30 gal tank, could be just the thing
30 gallons?? I'm metric but that sounds like enough!
I have seen passive radiator setups on old listers - where hot water gets pushed out the top to run down over cooling plates back into a trough/reservoir.
Next for efficiency would be a belt drive viscous fan and radiator setup, but that might be over-cooling for something that's not run at heavy load all the time, but if you're boiling off a 30 gal tank, could be just the thing
6
Waste Motor Oil / Re: My new "Roger Sanders" style waste oil burner
« on: May 07, 2021, 10:47:32 PM »
I know it's a different application, and requires compressed air source (only 15psi or so) but I use a "KWIKY" burner in my metalcasting furnace. Very economical, absolutely clean burn once up to temperature and can go from cold to 1500° in about 10 mins. It's not fussy on what you feed it, I siphon out of a settled 5-gal tank of mixed waste oil.
I have been playing with the idea of adapting it to a space-heater set up, perhaps building a smaller one, given how many BTUs it can throw out.
I have been playing with the idea of adapting it to a space-heater set up, perhaps building a smaller one, given how many BTUs it can throw out.
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Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 07, 2021, 01:24:12 AM »I have not heard of the method of spraying small mists of water into a running engine to de-glaze it but only to de-coke it as the mist of water turns to steam and that is what loosens the carbon. I can't see how that method would work on the de-glazing but I am always happy to learn.
I can't say I understand the science myself, I'll try and find the link.
As I understand it water injection a) cools the intake charge giving denser (more) air, and b) once in the chamber splits into oxygen and hydrogen to promote more complete combustion.
Maybe hotter running breaks the glaze allowing the rings to scrape it?
8
Petteroids / New to me, AVA2
« on: May 05, 2021, 05:53:07 AM »
I picked up an AVA2. It's actually the one referenced in this thread: https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/petter-ava2-12hp-diesel-came-home-with-me-today-look.79162/
I didn't realise it hadn't been run in 10 years!
Anyway. Dismantled, cleaned up and freed 1 of the IPs that was pretty much rusted in place, both injectors, the oil pump, drained the water and sludge out of crankcase and filled with good clean oil, bled all oiling lines, primed all fuel lines, checked injectors... everything to do so it should run.
I'm in the process of fitting a flywheel and starter to it, as it doesn't have the 4:1 gears some of them have for a starting handle, and I haven't managed to spin it hard or fast enough to start by hand. There is the 2:1 reduction for the camshaft, but adapting a handle to that seems like more work than the starter and unfortunately I don't have a suitable pony motor.
I will post photos later.
But my question for now, if anyone knows, is what should the injector nozzle recession (?) be...
I picked up 2 different thickness copper washers (only one injector had one fitted. They also have an aluminium heat-shroud, which I would think would be enough to seal up on) and fitted them both with the ones matching the one I pulled out, not sure how good this is going to get the spray into the cylinder though as it may be rebated too far?
Also not sure how or why the need for copper between the injector, the alloy, and the head. Could/should I do away with it?
Being air-cooled I can see the sense in heat-sinking the injectors, it's just not a set-up I've come across before.
I didn't realise it hadn't been run in 10 years!
Anyway. Dismantled, cleaned up and freed 1 of the IPs that was pretty much rusted in place, both injectors, the oil pump, drained the water and sludge out of crankcase and filled with good clean oil, bled all oiling lines, primed all fuel lines, checked injectors... everything to do so it should run.
I'm in the process of fitting a flywheel and starter to it, as it doesn't have the 4:1 gears some of them have for a starting handle, and I haven't managed to spin it hard or fast enough to start by hand. There is the 2:1 reduction for the camshaft, but adapting a handle to that seems like more work than the starter and unfortunately I don't have a suitable pony motor.
I will post photos later.
But my question for now, if anyone knows, is what should the injector nozzle recession (?) be...
I picked up 2 different thickness copper washers (only one injector had one fitted. They also have an aluminium heat-shroud, which I would think would be enough to seal up on) and fitted them both with the ones matching the one I pulled out, not sure how good this is going to get the spray into the cylinder though as it may be rebated too far?
Also not sure how or why the need for copper between the injector, the alloy, and the head. Could/should I do away with it?
Being air-cooled I can see the sense in heat-sinking the injectors, it's just not a set-up I've come across before.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CS 6/1 Start-o-Matic Won't Turn Over
« on: May 05, 2021, 12:45:23 AM »
Just thinking out loud...
Could batteries be suffering low internal resistance? IE voltage good at rest but drop volts when starter is in the circuit?
Can you get an ammeter/clamp meter on the battery lead while trying to start?
Could starter be shorted internally so the circuit is being made across only half the windings? Can you find another starter to swap in and test?
Has the alternator (?) lost it's field/sense circuitry?
I would be keen to know -why- the wiring melted in the first place... is there a short in the alt? Try taking that out of circuit and starting.
Could batteries be suffering low internal resistance? IE voltage good at rest but drop volts when starter is in the circuit?
Can you get an ammeter/clamp meter on the battery lead while trying to start?
Could starter be shorted internally so the circuit is being made across only half the windings? Can you find another starter to swap in and test?
Has the alternator (?) lost it's field/sense circuitry?
I would be keen to know -why- the wiring melted in the first place... is there a short in the alt? Try taking that out of circuit and starting.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Need help with Injector Pump (Minimum Engine Speed)
« on: May 04, 2021, 09:22:12 AM »
I am familiar with the internals of the IP, couldn't tell you for sure, but I'll speculate.
The main doo-dad (spindle that sits inside the collar that is acted on by the toothed governor bar) has two "holes" that are joined by a slanted slot. When at minimum fuelling only the idle hole can flow, when it's WOT both holes are lined up and fuelling along the slot.
At a guess, the options for rebuilding this would be find another collar and move the holes so that fuelling is achieved earlier on the rack, or find another spindle and modify the spacing/shape/width/length of the groove to allow greater fuelling.
But you could just call it a Hit'n'miss lister!
Other option I'm guessing is governor weights, play around with them so it doesn't throw out so easily... depending on how you want/need to load the engine.
What is actually the point in wanting to run so slow? Surely you're sacrificing half or more of the HP it would have...
The main doo-dad (spindle that sits inside the collar that is acted on by the toothed governor bar) has two "holes" that are joined by a slanted slot. When at minimum fuelling only the idle hole can flow, when it's WOT both holes are lined up and fuelling along the slot.
At a guess, the options for rebuilding this would be find another collar and move the holes so that fuelling is achieved earlier on the rack, or find another spindle and modify the spacing/shape/width/length of the groove to allow greater fuelling.
But you could just call it a Hit'n'miss lister!
Other option I'm guessing is governor weights, play around with them so it doesn't throw out so easily... depending on how you want/need to load the engine.
What is actually the point in wanting to run so slow? Surely you're sacrificing half or more of the HP it would have...
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: couple of old SOMs
« on: May 04, 2021, 09:05:55 AM »
Yep. Auction sites can be dangerous. Some people asking way over the odds. (And some people paying it!)
I don't know about the startomatics. Looks very similar to CS.
Listard, does that indicate chrome bore? There was some plate/patent number which would confirm that.
Rusty... and as a non-runner it's really up to you what it's worth. I suppose if it spins over freely that's a plus. Down on compression could just be stuck rings or valve. Seller seems pretty honest and up-front. I wont be bidding against ya on this one!
I don't know about the startomatics. Looks very similar to CS.
Listard, does that indicate chrome bore? There was some plate/patent number which would confirm that.
Rusty... and as a non-runner it's really up to you what it's worth. I suppose if it spins over freely that's a plus. Down on compression could just be stuck rings or valve. Seller seems pretty honest and up-front. I wont be bidding against ya on this one!
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Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 04, 2021, 08:39:03 AM »
And in case the cylinder is glazed from too much lazy running, a method I came across the other day was to pick up a garden sprayer full of water, and once it's up to temp and idling, start spraying a mist into the intake, basically until it bogs, then back it off some.
This is the method behind water/meth injection.
It should start throwing out a whole lot of garbage, you just have to keep spraying until the exhaust is clear.
This is the method behind water/meth injection.
It should start throwing out a whole lot of garbage, you just have to keep spraying until the exhaust is clear.
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Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 04, 2021, 08:34:51 AM »
Everyone else has already covered all the things that jumped to my mind.
The first thing would be cure that intermittent spark. And also remember you want a GOOD spark. If it's weak outside the cylinder it could be 5/8ths of nothing when it's under compression.
There were plans floating around the internet for a magneto "recharger".
Ideally you could find a known good spare to test if it is in fact that, but also gap and points as mentioned.
Engines only need a few things to run: Air, fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time)
The first thing would be cure that intermittent spark. And also remember you want a GOOD spark. If it's weak outside the cylinder it could be 5/8ths of nothing when it's under compression.
There were plans floating around the internet for a magneto "recharger".
Ideally you could find a known good spare to test if it is in fact that, but also gap and points as mentioned.
Engines only need a few things to run: Air, fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time)
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General Discussion / Re: Engine paint
« on: April 28, 2021, 05:25:20 AM »
From my notes:
I got some matched at a paint shop Brunswick Green is correct, RGB 27,77,62
But could substitute Hunter Green 53,94,59 or British Racing Green 1,66,37
I got some matched at a paint shop Brunswick Green is correct, RGB 27,77,62
But could substitute Hunter Green 53,94,59 or British Racing Green 1,66,37
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