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Messages - mihit

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1
Sorry man, can't find my manual on the PC, and can't find pics of when I had the head off the 3-1.

If it was running good before, then I would be inclined to replace like-for-like until I could get a better answer, though both threaded wouldn't do you any harm and since they're not under a lot of pressure to move...


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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: A lot of issue on lister cs
« on: August 23, 2021, 06:14:54 AM »
Sorry, I hope I'm understanding you correctly and can help. Element we would call a fuel-filter?

I am not sure what "misfiring"? Can you hear the injector (nozzle) creaking when the piston is after TDC?
(TDC Top Dead Centre on firing stroke)

The engine will certainly "hunt" (raise and lower itself) if the timing is off, but I would suspect the linkage/govenor first.
Since you say the gear on the camshaft has been altered, that would be the first thing to check. There should be punch marks on the gear teeth that need to align, and a Spill-timing mark on the flywheel. 18btdc if memory serves me.

I would check this is correct first, before loading the engine, but some engines may hunt at idle, and come alright when under load.

Crankshaft "moving in and out" we might call end float? This would be an issue in the main bearings and will only cause problems when run at speed and temperature.

3
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Conditioning waste motor oil
« on: August 20, 2021, 06:27:54 AM »
I wonder if a vacuum system would have advantages over a centrifuge? Or if it could be added to the process, before or after, as an additional refining step.
If anyone has the gear already set up, to compare these methods side-by-side, or one before the other and compare yield and some kind of test of clarity, calorie, ph, gravity etc...  This would be very interesting, OR, I'll add it to my long list of projects!

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Flushing OIl
« on: August 10, 2021, 08:09:30 PM »
I used to just buy an engine's worth of cheap oil, drain the old (when hot), fill with the cheap stuff and run till hot, then change filters, drain and fill with good oil.

Now I just drain the old and fill with good oil.

5
General Discussion / Re: Re: listerengine.com forum
« on: August 02, 2021, 03:44:07 AM »
Yup, I'll add my thanks to those tinkerers under the hood.

Just an Idea but I would be happy to download/backup a monthly rsync of the db if that's any use? I know your server/host probably keeps backups but another layer of redundancy never hurts.

6
Generators / Re: How to Choose a Gen Head
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:07:49 AM »
thanks mihit - yes we are in the Uk, hence 230 VAC

what you say about double converting energy makes sense - however, ideally I'd like to pour a concrete base and build a shed around the engine just to try and keep the noise down, it going to be easier to keep the engine "isolated"

one of my reasons for wanting to stay direct drive was just for the simplicity and "compactness", also, even if I could weld, living off grid makes it difficult to get power to weld! so I'd like to avoid having to make a frame to mount pulls and belts etc

thanks for the info on sizing the gen head

Fair point and obviously you know what's going to work best for you. Keep us updated and post pics if you can, we always like pics :)

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: lister single cylinder dumper engine
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:00:44 AM »
Sounds like overflow/spill rail for injector. Not entirely needed you could just hang a can to collect any leaked diesel.
You could google for suppliers but it's low/no pressure so if you have some refrigeration/ copper tubing and bend/flaring tool you could make one.
Or cut it off injector-side of the bend and hoseclamp a flexible pipe/tube to it.

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:54:59 PM »
Some injectors have a feeler pin which you put your finger or thumb on while it's in engine to check function.
They should definitely go off with a "creak"

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:53:31 PM »
Following on, they're very easy to dismantle and clean.
Be sure to bleed the injector lines before trying to run, as above by cracking the flare nut at the injector, turning over diesel should squirt out the joint.
If it doesn't squirt there's possibly something wrong with the pump/lifter. (also very easy to dismantle and clean)

The injection pattern isn't as enthusiastic as a modern injector but should definitely be a mist not a dribble.

The next culprit will be spill timing.

10
General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:44:38 PM »
As to the original question, a belt each side is almost preferable, balancing loads on the main crank bearing.

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General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:42:51 PM »
I love lineshafting, it's my current off-grid mission for my 12-2 Petter.

Before even electric motors factories would have had steam,coal, water wheel or diesel plant to spin a main shaft (usually vertical up several stories) which would then drive line shafts for each floor, which would then drive lay shafts for each machine.
"Clutch" was a pulley loose on the shaft, next to the fixed-pulley and engaged by "shipper rods"

Flat belts are a very effective means of HP and more importantly torque transfer. I believe they're more efficient transferring energy (less transmission loss)  than HV power pylons when the distance is less than 30 miles!

Just imagine 60 miles of belts and flywheels from a local dam to your shed!

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 18, 2021, 02:08:37 AM »
I'm not sure what specifications? If it's intact and one of the bryce/ bosch types then it's pretty much clean-up and run it.
I do have an exploded diagram on the PC but don't recall mention of crack pressure or anything. Either measure/mark current adjustment or don't tutu with it!

As for pintle sizes angles etc, if it's that far gone you'll be better finding a good one IMO

13
General Discussion / Re: Bernard Petrol
« on: July 16, 2021, 10:47:21 PM »
Oh well. It followed me home.
Turns out when he said he'd "had it running recently" - that was a few years ago!

Checked it over, all things move as they should, new gapped plug, freed up stuck float valve (flooding) and tutu with the governor mech (which still needs work), un-tutu'd the dead-spark wiring, made a crank handle and spun her up, she's alive!
I might even get to posting a video oneday.

Will have to either tear into it to fix existing throttle arrangement, or just add a lawnmower type cable/friction lever. Will put it under load and see what she does.

14
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 16, 2021, 10:41:00 PM »
OK, Well I'll just go against the grain and say, since your engine is rotating, power anything that rotates off that, via belts etc. You can shield/guard the belts, or just use the safety feature between your ears and not put yourself in harms way.

Next best/safest source is pnumatic/compressed air.
Depending what engine you get, you could pull the injector/pump to one cylinder and run that as a compressor - alternatively you can probaby pick up a belt-drive compressor head cheaply as they seem to be everywhere now.
There is a disadvantage in double or triple converting energy. For example an engine, reciprocating motion, giving rotation, to generate electricity, to rotate a motor, to drive a piston compressor (reciprocating again!)... Waste/conversion loss at every step.

If you can find an old Miller "roughneck" weld/genhead, that takes care of those two things in one go.

The advantage with pnuematic tools is that they'll generally be field servicable. If a rotor or stator burns out, it's a trip to town to order a part to wait a month...

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: Aluminium Piston
« on: July 09, 2021, 08:09:33 AM »
On the smaller CS, I've taken the barrel off to get at the piston. You need to put gaskets/shims under it to set the deck height anyway.

As to which piston, I'd guess the larger CS are still splash lubed, and I'd guess the bottom ring on the 4-groove is an oil control/wiper ring as well.
I would say either would do, but that's just a guess on my part.

What are you looking to achieve moving to a lighter piston?

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