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Listeroid Engines / Re: Ashwamegh cooling project
« on: November 27, 2021, 07:52:57 PM »
Would a larger radiator circulate enough coolant via thermosyphon, without the fan ? Just, cap off ?
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Engine Timing
« on: November 21, 2021, 06:36:44 PM »
Pulled off the flywheel, injector pump, back cam cover and removed cam. I was counting teeth and looking at cam lobe angle percentages, it was ridiculous (and still binding at different points). I knew I was making this to complicated. So, I took the cam back out, I also took out the injector, but left the diamond shaped injector bracket in place as a guide/measure. I dropped a 1/8” piece of nylon rod about 14 inches long down the injector hole to rest and ride on the piston, so I was able to get a real good TDC reading. I thought about how the valve order in the combustion cycle should go. I needed the intake valve to open first, so I installed the cam in the flattest position under the tappets, just before starting to move the intake valve. That position was the intake cam lobe facing 9 o’clock. I then put the covers and injector pump and pushrods back in place and proceeded to slowly turn over the engine. To my amazement, it would actually turn over without binding – however, I could feel in my senses, through my hands, that it was close, but not perfect. Then my brain automatically went back to Butch’s timing video where he shows us that the crankshaft one tooth off in either direction isn’t going to work, and it’s obvious. Took it apart, put the crank at TDC, took a sharpie and marked the position of the idler gear and cam gear – knowing that I was probably just one tooth off in either direction as Butch laid out. My first 1 tooth change forward made the engine bind up, but after moving my cam gear 2 positions back (because I’d already moved my mark, 1 forward), we are back in action !
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Engine Timing
« on: November 16, 2021, 05:48:24 AM »
I was able to turn the flywheels 1 1/4 revolution clockwise before it appeared the exhaust valve was open (pressed down), so that would have been touching the piston. Took it back to my starting point with the flywheels. Just because, I rotated the flywheels in a counterclockwise way, barely 1/2 of a revolution and it binds again. Movement is once again the exhaust valve. I will definitely check the pump throw on the injector pump. I appreciate that.
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Listeroid Engines / Engine Timing
« on: November 16, 2021, 03:56:33 AM »
At no point during reassembly, did I feel like I had zigged when I should have zagged. I had watched ( I believe it was Butch's ) TDC video 25 times, and felt super solid about what I had done. After all is ready to go, when I slowly try turning it over by hand, there is a problem with it binding up. Any quick checks or best way to proceed is appreciated. Thanks guys
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Pushrods
« on: November 03, 2021, 06:06:45 AM »The long one goes on the intake valve. Look at the lifters, the exhaust lifter is taller due to the compression release.
Yep, makes perfect sense. Thank you
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Pushrods
« on: November 02, 2021, 08:23:28 PM »
Thanks Veggie, yea, I "assumed" mine would have been also. One is 3/8 inch longer than the other. 
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Listeroid Engines / Pushrods
« on: November 02, 2021, 03:43:26 AM »
I was negligent in labeling, for different length pushrods. Which length goes on which side. Thanks guys
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Multiple questions
« on: April 16, 2021, 08:08:40 AM »Thanks for the links to the split shaft collars. A pair of those will be on there way shortly.
@ Hugh - Once you mentioned the taper in the hub, I couldn't believe I was such a knucklehead and didn't catch that myself. Absolutely correct, small end inward. Now that I've kinda visualized the taper in both pieces, (hub & gib key) and the ink or soot marking methods, our point is to have maximum surface area fitting of the tapered parts, with a firm hit, to lock in place.
And, as far as 38ac goes, he is way up there near the top of my Christmas list. Yes, he sure does know his stuff and I've got nothin' but mad respect for him. I mentioned previously, before I had even found this forum again, I was rebuilding. When I had a problem, I went to youtube and found the most reliable looking source. I found an awesome source alright. Then I found this forum again, and after reading posts for weeks, along with video clips ya'll post on here, one day I clicked on a link someone posted about timing. When I clicked on it, "It was that guy", there was the video that helped me with my timing 6 weeks earlier. Maybe the names (youtube/forum name) weren't the same, maybe I'm just getting old, but it took me a minute to put it all together. So, I was missing 1 part after 15 years of my CS being disassembled/cleaned - and I don't have any teenagers to blame it on. After seeing the respect he has here, I sent him an email out of the blue. I was a total stranger with not even a single forum post, and he has gone above and beyond the call of duty to help me.
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Listeroid Engines / Multiple questions
« on: April 15, 2021, 06:43:50 PM »
I really enjoy looking through the pics of everyone's setup. There are a few of you that are completely over the top, and have some of the most beautiful engine, starter, genny, permanent and mobile installations and belt combinations. I am taking serious mental notes of all your great work, and hope to get my project even "close" to that level.
Luckily, after I used plastigage to check my TDC clearance, I wasn't able to immediately put the head right back on, which was a good thing. I had been doing a bunch of reading here, and came across posts about separated head gaskets causing probs with leaking water. There was talk about gluing the gasket back together, or painting with something - but no definitive answer. I am now ready to slap my head back on, and I do have one of these separated head gaskets. It is 15 years old, but since it was only run at the factory before shipping (maybe), it looks great even though it has come apart. What should I do with it - OR, will 150 ft lbs of torque keep it together ?
My second question is about the spoked flywheels. Is there a right and a left side - or an inside and an outside ?
Lastly for today - What is the absolute best way to hammer back in the gib keys. When do you know that you have the gib set correctly. I do own some powerful equipment that will kill you instantly, and I have SERIOUS RESPECT for, and pay attention when I'm using them. I put these CS engines in this same category. I can't imagine having a 100 pound flywheel coming off and running through a home or a yard, and then the unbalanced engine cartwheeling. It makes me nervous when I watch youtube vids, and guys start these things not held in place and they're hopping around the floor. What do they plan on doing when 600 pounds is running and unmanageable ? I was watching a video of Veggies setup, and I saw just outside his gib key, he had a circular lock of some kind, maybe allen insert set screws. I want a pair of these in addition to the gibs, so if someone has a link to those safety rings, that would be great. Thanks everyone.
Luckily, after I used plastigage to check my TDC clearance, I wasn't able to immediately put the head right back on, which was a good thing. I had been doing a bunch of reading here, and came across posts about separated head gaskets causing probs with leaking water. There was talk about gluing the gasket back together, or painting with something - but no definitive answer. I am now ready to slap my head back on, and I do have one of these separated head gaskets. It is 15 years old, but since it was only run at the factory before shipping (maybe), it looks great even though it has come apart. What should I do with it - OR, will 150 ft lbs of torque keep it together ?
My second question is about the spoked flywheels. Is there a right and a left side - or an inside and an outside ?
Lastly for today - What is the absolute best way to hammer back in the gib keys. When do you know that you have the gib set correctly. I do own some powerful equipment that will kill you instantly, and I have SERIOUS RESPECT for, and pay attention when I'm using them. I put these CS engines in this same category. I can't imagine having a 100 pound flywheel coming off and running through a home or a yard, and then the unbalanced engine cartwheeling. It makes me nervous when I watch youtube vids, and guys start these things not held in place and they're hopping around the floor. What do they plan on doing when 600 pounds is running and unmanageable ? I was watching a video of Veggies setup, and I saw just outside his gib key, he had a circular lock of some kind, maybe allen insert set screws. I want a pair of these in addition to the gibs, so if someone has a link to those safety rings, that would be great. Thanks everyone.
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Bio-diesel Fuel / Re: Expain to me why you bother to make bio diesel
« on: April 07, 2021, 05:17:15 PM »
If ones end goal is to run a stationary engine, especially one installed in a power shed out of the elements, then good filtered WVO is perfect. It is relatively easy to heat up a small tank of VO and keep it flowing. If it does gel up because of the cold, 5 minutes and a torch will free things up. And yes, indirect injection loves WVO. The extra lubricity of the veg oil seems to be very healthy for injectors and pumps.
Once you decide that you will be using your own fuel for daily driver, visiting family hundreds of miles from home, and vacations, using a vehicle with a modern direct injection power plant - you will want to run washed biodiesel. When you have a 46 gallon tank, 10 foot fuel lines exposed underneath, wife and dogs onboard - fuel problems are not good - especially when avoidable.
It was an easier task for me to convert the oil, than to add a heated WVO tank, and a solenoid switch to switch tanks back to diesel in the fuel lines, for ease of starting the next morning. And then not remembering to flip the switch.............
Once you decide that you will be using your own fuel for daily driver, visiting family hundreds of miles from home, and vacations, using a vehicle with a modern direct injection power plant - you will want to run washed biodiesel. When you have a 46 gallon tank, 10 foot fuel lines exposed underneath, wife and dogs onboard - fuel problems are not good - especially when avoidable.
It was an easier task for me to convert the oil, than to add a heated WVO tank, and a solenoid switch to switch tanks back to diesel in the fuel lines, for ease of starting the next morning. And then not remembering to flip the switch.............
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Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1 CS Linkage
« on: April 02, 2021, 10:01:08 PM »
You have an amazing skill of delivering complete instructions to perfection, with as few words as possible. What a gift ! I will be doing this ASAP. Thanks so much for pointing out your youtube channel - I am a now a subscriber. You have already helped me out so much without even knowing it. When I was rebuilding the Lovson - sure enough, I had taken it apart never imagining that there would be no timing marks anywhere. I just happened to run across your timing video, and it was explained so succinctly, that even I, felt confident that I would prevail. You have saved my A$$ a few times already, and I thank you very much Sir !
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Listeroid Engines / 6/1 CS Linkage
« on: April 02, 2021, 07:18:50 PM »
I have not been happy with the linkage on this thing since the beginning, and I have improved it considerably. I now have complete left to right movement of the rack with no binding. Once the complete linkage is connected, it appears that the governor arm does NOT have the same movement (throw) as the rack, therefore, the gov arm will not allow the rack to cover its full range - stop to wide open. So, am I missing something, or am I just going to give up a portion of one side of the rack. I imagine if I have to give up rack movement, the losing side will be, not opening up to full throttle, because otherwise, it might not want to stop. Guidance please. Thanks
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Generators / I'm ready to buy a gen head..............
« on: March 31, 2021, 04:59:17 AM »
......... for my Lovson 6/1 CS. I wish I had had enough foresight, to have gotten an Utterpower PMG years ago. I've been doing a bunch of searching the brands, and reading through years of posts. Have looked from the Chinese ST's, to Northern tools brushless, Stamfords, an on and on. I even spoke to a fella that would make me a custom head. One of the brands doesn't make below 8kw, and I imagine 5kw is probably max for my single. So, I'd like yalls opinions please. Who's had good service with what ?
If I wanted a brushless unit, with clean power out, didn't want to buy Chinese, now that I'm thoroughly confused - is there such an animal
Thanks,
Brad
If I wanted a brushless unit, with clean power out, didn't want to buy Chinese, now that I'm thoroughly confused - is there such an animal
Thanks,
Brad
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Listeroid Engines / It's been a long road to my first post
« on: March 30, 2021, 07:53:33 AM »
Through the biodiesel forums, is how I first heard of these engines. When I found out they would be very difficult to import, I ran across a Lovson CS 6/1 23.5" spokes, in the crate, and brought it home. I stumbled across George B, bought his CD and printed off a hard copy to a 3 ring binder, found this forum in 2006 and signed up as Houndog. I tore my Lovson completely down and went through every wall and piece of that girl to make sure there was no sand, as I learned here. At that time there was this 40 dollar a quart red stuff called Glyptal, that was all the rage, and did it. Unfortunately, my company was navigating some tough times in there, and my 6/1 had to wait.
15 years later, the engine is just about back together, without all the caked up "paint", and all the "paint" cleaned off the linkage, nuts, bolts, springs and every where else it shouldn't be, it looks so much better, and everything is seated, grinded and torqued correctly. The linkage was binding in the movement, not allowing the rack to function properly - fixed. Just a few things I'm waiting on before the flywheels go back on. I unfortunately couldn't remember the email addy that I used for Houndog to resurrect it, but I'm here with my first post - finally. I'm very happy to be here, and cant wait to hear my girl sing.
15 years later, the engine is just about back together, without all the caked up "paint", and all the "paint" cleaned off the linkage, nuts, bolts, springs and every where else it shouldn't be, it looks so much better, and everything is seated, grinded and torqued correctly. The linkage was binding in the movement, not allowing the rack to function properly - fixed. Just a few things I'm waiting on before the flywheels go back on. I unfortunately couldn't remember the email addy that I used for Houndog to resurrect it, but I'm here with my first post - finally. I'm very happy to be here, and cant wait to hear my girl sing.
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