It may be worth you googling the difference between kVA and kW

If you do know your kVA and your kW output you can calculate a precise Power Factor by dividing the kW by the kVA. The formula for converting kVA into kW is: Apparent power (kVA) x power factor (pf) = actual power (kW) The formula for converting kW into kVA is: Actual power (kW) / power factor (pf) = apparent power (kVA)

Diesel Generators generally have a power factor of 0.8.

So my CS 8/1 Start-o-matic has a 4.5 kVA head so it produces 3.6 kW from 8HP - will run our house comfortably

Thanks, I thought that would be a safe bet.  Both mine are full to about 1/4inch below the oil fill hole when they have stood for a few days (allowing for drain back)

I have a few Lister books that show them taking 5 pints, I wonder if that's completely dry from new or after a rebuild (there's some oil retained up near the cam shaft I think)?

Hi George A, thank you for your reply.  Things have moved on quite a bit since my post.  I was told by others that the rectifier needed replacing and I did that, replacing it with a modern equivalent. I also replaced a capacitor that had taken a hit (one that's also part of the detection circuit). 

My SOM has a new issue now.  In manual mode the engine fires up as it should and the generator produces power. In automatic mode, when a lightbulb is switched on, the system detects the load as it should and goes into its start up routine.  The solenoid on the engine operates and the engine starts and cranks up to full speed - its at that point of the engine hitting full power, when the main relay should operate and switch the engine from its starting mode to producing full power that there's still a fault manifesting itself.  The main (multi contact) relay bounces and never fully settles, causing sparks across its contacts.  Clearly (in my mind) there's still a damaged component somewhere, that's not allowing the system to settle into fully operational automatic mode.

I have decided that I don't know enough to take this issue any further myself and I also don't want to damage any other components.  Given we are in lockdown, its not possible to get anyone to come and take a look, so for now, I will continue to run the engine in manual mode. 

If you have any thoughts of what other compolents I could test or just simply replace, that would be very helpful.

Ah, Thank you for letting me know, sorry to hear that news.

I hope I haven't upset anyone, I didn't know.

Hello, I have a 1963 Lister 8/1 startomatic 4.5 KVA which is a little poorly at the moment

It was starting well, once a bulb was switched on (as it should), it was a bit flickery though.  I loaded it up a bit (easily within the limits of the unit) only to find smoke pouring out of the upper control box. I immediately removed the load but the damage was done and, at this time, I can't find out what's gone wrong.  I did see sparking across the blue finned device in the middle of the box (is that the rectifier). I read somewhere that's a common failure point, what should I replace it with please?

While I am working out what's happened, can I run the unit as a push start generator?  where would I connect the load (I am assuming in the lower box that's fixed to the generator?)

The unit fires up fine and runs fine with the wedge inserted in the solenoid

Thanks 

 

Hello everyone.  I have the manuals and wiring diagrams for my 8/1 1965 4.5KVA startomatic unit.  What I don't have is the knowledge to identify what each component in the two boxes are.

So, does anyone have a picture of each box with the items identified (so I can match these to the wiring diagrams) please?

I have to trace a fault, and therefore need to know what each component is.

thank you for your replies.