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Messages - Listeria

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Iíve got the cylinder liner out, I tried to drag it out with 2 hooks attached to a chain winch, lifted the engine a half inch of the ground and went to bed, still there in the morning.
So I made a puller, 2 lengths of 24 mm HT threaded rod, two cross bars made of double layers of 10 x 30 mm flat bar. The top one sitting on a frame, made of 25 mm RHS and 75 mm channel, sitting over the studs and the other bar under the base of the liner, each of these cross bars had 2 rod guides of 30mm RHS tube welded to them. The top bar was solid but the bottom was designed with a central M12 HT bolt backed off 1 turn from tight to allow a bit of movement of the 2 plates as each of the long HT rods was tightened in turn.
It took 2 of us pushing and pulling together on a 50 cm tube extension to the spanner on the top nuts, it was all we could do to get a quarter at a time.
Anyway itís out, you were right about the crud that had accumulated over 67 years, caught it all in a layer of rags.
Iím getting back to it tomorrow, (work interferes with the business of real life), Iím going to use a red Plastiguage to check the bearing clearance.
Getting the new liner back in, not sure, Iím planning to chill it down with dry ice and warm the block with the oxy, then lubricate it with some INOX lanolin and spray push/whack it down using the old liner as a pusher, failing that Iíll run a length of 10 mm chain under the engine (itís on a pallet) and then modify the tube guide and plates attaching the chain to the ends of the long 24 mm HT rods, with a length of 75 mm channel a leather pad, a stout hardwood block on the top of the liner and then screw it down.

Things I want to Buy / LIster JP 1/9 rebuild
« on: April 22, 2019, 05:16:38 AM »
More questions about my JP 1/9 rebuild.
I've got a new con rod with standard size big end bearing
The journal on the crankshaft is in need of a gentle burnishing but not grossly out of round.
The averaged measurements taken at 4 points along the length of the journal were:

TDC                 2.991   Inches

TDC + 90        2.995      "

BDC                2.991      "

BDC + 90        2.997      "

I don't have an accurate inside micrometer to measure the new bearing or access to a JP manual with the bearing dimensions and clearance specs
Can anyone help me with bearing clearance?
Heading out to workshop to try and remove the old cylinder liner now.

Finger fumble premature post
Flange mounted fuel pump
BPFID 705S61 (I think))
Serial number 16248.F (I think)

I've been over the journal with 2 different vernier micrometers at TDC, BDC and half way in between X 2.
At each rotation I measured at 4 points along the length of the shaft
It is of uniform diameter to within 0.001 of an inch.

So I reckon I'll be able to leave the crankshaft in place, Hallelujah!

Next challenge, getting the old cylinder sleeve out.
Any helpful advice?
Thanks all

HI Listard jp2
It's a flange mounted fuel pump
Plated: BPFID 705S61

« on: April 19, 2019, 07:02:04 AM »
Iím still searching for anything instructive relating to the Lister JP 1/9 6.25 Kva Startomatic.
Just missed a manual on EBay UK.
Any help would really be greatly appreciated.
Iím currently rebuilding the engine and learning as I go with help and advice from this forum.

Thanks everyone.
I will get a good micrometer tomorrow and carefully assess the journal for any evidence of ovality.
It would be great to be able avoid reconditioning the crankshaft
She will be going into her own shed and working for a living, keeping our batteries charged when the sun doesn't shine and the wind doesn't blow.
Our Selectronic SP Pro Inverter / Charger logs all inputs. The current generator spends a lot of time idle and then becomes important at times like now, in our autumn, however last year we only logged a total of 75 hours of generator time.
So the JP 1/9 Startomatic won't be flogged too hard.
At a liter an hour, 12 months use would not even empty the 120 liter original fuel tank with it's clever float chain and sloping base.
If the journal isn't significantly out of round and the the big end bearing is replaced then maybe a bit of superficial scruffiness on the journal won't matter.
What do you reckon?

The diesel mechanic who saw the video of the journal rotating in situ said it should be ground.
The engineer who's going to recondition the crank has gone fishing up north for 2 weeks.
Would it be possible to grind the journal and the end bearing sections of the crankshaft and leave those sections of the shaft with the central bearing and timing gear intact?
I hadn't planned to completely dismantle it but if it has to be.....
Getting the flywheel off worries me, I've got it up on a couple pallets under a lift point with a 2T endless chain hoist.  I'll make a clamp to grip it and hopefully not drop it on my foot!
Any practical pointers or helpful hints on getting the crankshaft out would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the sound advice.

"It's not what you don't know that gets you into trouble, it's usually what you don't know that you don't know that does it!"

I've got some photos/video of the crank.
I'm going to show them to another grey haired enthusiast tomorrow, he also doubles as a professional diesel mechanic with all the gear to deal with the crank.
Thanks for the offer of the timing gear, I'll be in touch soon.


Hi again
Got a bit of a problem.
The journal on the crank on the JP 1/( is worn, there's a round patch about 1.5 cm in diam which seem to be showing different coloured metal through the silver and some patches where it's slightly pitted, might be able to polish them out.
I doesn't seem to be out of round but the jaws on my digital caliper whilst they open wide enough to get around the journal but not quite long enough to get around to give a true diameter.
The big end bearing is worn and pitted.
I've got a new genuine con rod with big and small end bearings and I've also got a genuine main bearing (End Cover) and a main bearing (Gear End) both -0.020 Thou.
I reckon I'm going to bite the bullet and get the crank ground and replace the main bearings (Plan B) as well as Plan A to redo the piston, liner, and the valves etc as well.
She's apparently been been untouched  for 70 years.
It will take a bit longer and cost a bit more but what the hell she's worth it!
I think I'll need to get bigger bearings for the big end once the crank has been seen to.
I'd send some pictures but this forum times me out with my slow farm country ADSL internet connection.


Hi Bob
Haven't forgotten about you. I made contact with Gary at DES, waiting to hear back. Tried several times to send you a picture of the new toy. Just get an error message, timed out or attachment too large even though it's within the size limit stated. Anyway we're stripping it down tomorrow, been busy with family weddings etc till now. Collected all the parts, tools and some documention. I'll let you know how we get on. I'd  love to post a video of her first start after rebuild.

Hi Fellow Lister Lovers
First post.
I have recently got myself a Lister 1/9 6.25kva Startomatic complete with base, original fuel tank. cast iron silencer, control panel and water tank etc etc.
It was an almost 2 tonne truck and trailer load on a 650 km 2 day round trip to dismantle and collect it.
It was made in 1951 and ran a sheep station homestead in New South Wales. As far as I know it is in original condition and has had no major work done on it before.
It's going but with reduced compression and some piston slap but it's turning out power.
I have obtained enough new mainly original and NOS parts to rebuild the engine:  piston, rings, gudgeon pin, cylinder sleeve, con rod with big and small end bearings, main bearings, fuel filter, gaskets, valves and all the attendant head bits etc etc.
It is going back to work when finished to provide back up battery charging  to wind and solar power on an off grid farm on the south coast of Victoria.
I would dearly love to get copies of the original documentation before starting work.
Can anyone out there help me please?
Listeria (Jim)

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