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Messages - scott p

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General Discussion / fuel tank
« on: August 21, 2021, 07:37:36 PM »
Anybody have experience dealing with holes in the tank? I soldered one hole but there is a rusty area about 2 square inches that could use a patch.

Seems I heard of some substance that can be poured into the tank to fix leaks. The tank is generic so to speak and cannot be easily replaced.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: July 03, 2021, 04:01:00 AM »
That is  for sure a grand amount of information. I am still trying to get it.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 28, 2021, 05:00:09 PM »
My mill is not marked but looks like a jet type with a round column that will  swing around  and the tram is, I suppose, fixed. There are no marks to tell me when I am straight out with the deck. Bought used with lots of tooling.

I should check the tram before I do anything about this small bore project. I made up a mandrel for the big end but this is turning out to be too time consuming, needs to be a winter project.

I have a south-bend garage sale lathe with lots of tooling. I consider the thread dial indicator to be a form of magic. One mark for even threads and another mark for odd threads. Metric a whole different story, indicator with several different gears.

Cobbadog, are you going to post what you did to build a indicator ??

Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: June 25, 2021, 04:28:07 PM »
Sounds like a fuel problem. Have you tried a spot of starting fluid to see if the engine lights up?

Someone has probably already mentioned this but I am too lazy to go back and look. 

When checking for spark it is important to make sure the high voltage spike from the mag or coil has a GOOD ground.
If it doesn't that high energy spike has to go somewhere and it might rupture the coil windings trying to find a ground.

You might get away with it for a while but every time that happens it weakens the coil windings.

Just holding the spark plug against some convenient hunk of metal doesn't always cut it.

Attaching a jumper wire from the plug to a clean shiny spot on the crank case is good insurance.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 24, 2021, 07:44:12 AM »
Sorry about that, I didn't mean to imply that I thought it was a factory taper. It was basiclly a question and you answered

it. Highly unlikely, even for some kind of alignment problem.

Also, the actual measurements of the bore were all over the place to some degree and averaged out as a taper.

38ac's explanation of fitting and sizing a bush is good news. I think if I make  mandrels about say three or four inches long

for both bores I should be able to easily determine if the bores are  parallel to each other. If needed I can use his

technique to bring things together.

Did I read somewhere a long time ago that a hone will have a tendency to straighten things out in a bore ?

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 22, 2021, 07:08:32 PM »
Yes a copper pipe would be ok with me if I can find one. The old bush is fairly thick, perhaps I could bore the old bushing out and push a copper liner in.

The wrist pin has any where from 1/2 to one thou wear, measures 7/8 in and is very hard.

I took the old bushing out and set the rod on a granite plate. The rod little bore does not seem to line up to the big bore. I need to check that out. If babbit does in fact swell as it cools I could try filling the small end and then somehow drilling and reaming to align with the big end.

 The small end bore is roughly tapered by about three to four thou . By design or just loose tolerances?
I jumped the gun on the bushing I made and did not discover the taper until too late.

The old bush is not tapered and appears to be soft steel with bronze or some fairly hard liner. Possibly I could bore it a little and  pour babbit or tin solder  and ream it.

Oh well, I will be thinking about it.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 20, 2021, 08:15:51 PM »
So 38ac glad to hear some one has been there done that. What would be your procedure for making a bushing to fit the small end of the con rod ?

Ingenuity and perseverance, just what MachineNlectricMan was talking about, well done.

All done without fancy tooling.

Did you need to use Prussian Blue or something to located high spots.

Nice touch, valve grinding paste.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 19, 2021, 09:29:13 PM »
Interesting observation 38ac. I hadn't considered that sort of thing. I think I will try brass rather than the babbit I have here.

I believe I read a post where you might have a lathe. Have you ever made bearings or bushings? 

I am including a couple pictures showing what I will try first in my attempt to make a proper bushing. One shows a shaft slightly smaller that the wrist pin. The second pict is the outer container to hold the brass. If I can get the brass out or off of the these two items I will consider myself lucky.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 18, 2021, 09:53:24 PM »
Out of curiosity I did a search. Looks like babbit comes in a lot of different flavors,and is readily available.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 18, 2021, 06:35:44 PM »
I use old poured babbit bearings on some of the sawmill shafts. I get the babbit from a comersial saw mill. They use the babbit in their gang saw. They call it high speed babbit or hard babbit.They also say it is lead free with a lot of tin.

I coat the shaft with a  coat of carbon applied by a Acetylene flame. As mentioned clay or something to seal the gaps. Poured directly through the oil hole and then drilled. No need to scrap. Works fine, no searching around for probably none existent bearing shells.

I am currently working on  replacing the small end bushing on a small, old, slow speed gas engine. I am not aware of any organization that sells bushings for these old engines. This hard babbit is a dream to mill. It will be a DIY schooling project. I might coat the wrist pin and pour the babbit around it and then machine it to fit the small end.

Engines / Re: Dismantling Lister D Governor mechanism
« on: May 15, 2021, 03:23:28 AM »
I have no experience with that type of engine but I would be suspicious of those governor springs. Being mismatched like that doesn't seem right. Look at your exploded diagrams

Interesting post by cujet.

 As far as maintenance and troubleshooting goes seems like a good long term investment to consider a heat pump.

Of course it all depends on the over all circumstances of each area to heat and how much time one is willing to spend building and then working the bugs out of what could become rather complicated.

Heat pump, more or less instant heat and thermostatically controlled to boot.

2000 watts 220 volts around 10 amp. What does a heat pump of that nature cost?

Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 06, 2021, 06:19:18 PM »

For sure cobbadog. New honing only in a case where compression is suspect, with inconsistent ability to run.  I would think consistent compression below 90 would be a red flag if it's going to be a worker.

Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 05, 2021, 08:54:08 PM »
My two cents, considering magnetos, point gap is critical, also points should be not just  free of pits and roughness but polished  and the final bit is to run clean dry paper or cardboard through the points to make sure all residue is wiped off.

Try running or turning the engine over in the dark to see if any sparks show up in the electrics.

If the compression is weak a trick I learned is to give the cylinder bore a good hone somewhat rough.  This will make the rings reconnect to the cylinder bore. Make sure you clean the bore after honing.

Generators / Re: Capacitor calculation for DIY stand alone genset
« on: May 05, 2021, 05:29:32 PM »
Hats off to CS6-owner for a well said post. Pretty much laid it out. Looks like a single phase motor would, for simplicity’s sake, be a better way to go.

What about a three phase generator, can you run a load off one coil with say a star winding?

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