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Messages - mobile_bob

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Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Hatz E79 - Shop manual
« on: June 02, 2022, 11:28:18 PM »
are you using the hand crank?

if so, try to crank the engine without the compression release, you should have a hell of a time getting it to crank over
that would tell me you have adequate compression

also just because the injector appears to be putting out a decent spray pattern, it may not be doing so when pushing against compression, you might need to increase the injector spring tension a bit.

does the engine put out smoke while you are trying to start it?  if it is putting out smoke you are likely getting enough fuel, but it might not be atomized and increasing the injector spring pressure a bit will help.

the right way to check the injector of course is to take it to an injection shop and have them test and set the pressure that it pops off at.

i also agree that you might well do better to get a pulley mounted and spin the engine up using another engine, sometimes you just need the added rpm to get it to light up the first time.

very hard to diagnose this sort of thing from a keyboard/puter screen

bob g

great video, instills confidence doesn't it?

imagine building an engine up off the floor, a concrete floor at that, that actually looks like it is swept with some

"ok, let's go"

my favorite quote

bob g

Engines / Re: Oil Filtration video results
« on: April 26, 2022, 12:54:42 AM »
wow, and to think that is what i wipe my tushy with?


(sorry i couldn't help myself)

seriously the filter looks to have caught a lot of crap
and it is why i don't like those nasty top feed holes on the listeroid con rods
they seem like a catchers mitt for a lot of crap to be caught and directed into the conrod
and eat the crank pin

bob g

Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 22, 2022, 07:52:37 PM »
if you have to drill them out...

don't bring them to red hot, the relatively cooler surrounding metal will chill them and make them even harder than they started out to be.

if you can... sand off the paint or rust around the area where the set screw goes in, and then heat the area to a dark blue, make the area about an inch around if possible, all blue if possible and slowly let it cool by bringing the flame back a bit at a time over about a minute or so... then go get a cup of coffee or a beer (pick your poison)... wait until it is cool enough to handle.

then the little buggers will drill right out without much problem

also i cool my drill bits with water, i use a standard plastic pop bottle with an eighth inch hole drilled it in to dribble water and keep the bit cool.

never had one that couldn't be drilled out, if you anneal them properly first.

bob g

Engines / Re: Won’t start when hot
« on: April 19, 2022, 11:24:21 PM »
i am not familiar with your specific engine, however

from what you are describing, and based on the fact it will restart when cold
i am thinking maybe a sticking governor spool, maybe gummed up.

when the engine rev's up when you drop the load on the engine by too fast tipping the dump
or clutch the governor weights fly out and the system reacts, drawing the spool back toward no fuel position, the governor normally would catch this and correct for overshoot to no fuel, but if the spool is carboned up on the shaft, or the flyweights are hanging up?  who know's, but my bet is the governor can't catch itself and correct.

i have seen it happen on other engine's with mechanical governors, not often but it does happen, as does a sticking injector rack, which might even be more likely, seen that happen many times over the years.  i would first check all the injector racks, and make sure they move freely from no fuel to full fuel without any sign of binding.


probably someone(s) here that can be of more help

bob g

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS cylinder repair
« on: April 06, 2022, 12:33:39 PM »
if you can get it resleeved for a hundred bucks then +1 from me!

a good sleeve will last a very long time, and i wouldn't worry about hard chroming the bore.

bob g

i don't know if i ever saw one with the "electric" motor option, if available i would love a couple of them... having said that i would take a couple of the 165 water cooled compressors without the "electric" option.

having a water cooled small compressor in my shop would be great, compress my air and heat water at the same time would be just great!  save on having a separate water heater having to do the job, and we all know that with the price of electricity/propane and trying to reduce my carbon foot print by being able to harvest heat off the compressor should help save the planet.

wanna be green and all ya know

bob g

i would be interested in a couple water cooled 165 aircompressors,
ones with 12volt drive motors mounted to the case would be really interesting.
always wanted a water cooled single cylinder aircompressor on the 165 size with a 12volt motor that drives the flywheel.

bob g

Listeroid Engines / Re: Top quality Listeroid exporter
« on: April 01, 2022, 12:09:56 AM »
i wonder what "iso" means to some of these guys?

i think the "s" has something to do with "sand" and maybe the "9001" is the amount of sand included in grams?

so lets see if we can figure this out

the "I" in "iso" has to stand for "Included"
the "S" in "iso" has to stand for "Sand"
the "O" in "iso" maybe stand for "Only"
and the "9001" is the amount of sand in grams?

yeah that must be the ticket!


bob g

General Discussion / Re: concrete vs resilient mounting
« on: March 29, 2022, 01:45:48 PM »
this should prove to be quite interesting!

go get 'em Bob!


bob g

Engines / Re: Lister model L
« on: March 19, 2022, 02:38:20 PM »

seems you also might have to be careful how far you screw the tube up into the rod cap?

it has to screw in far enough to engage the lower brg shell, but not so far as to make contact with the crankshaft? 

i seem to remember some discussion on that topic with the listeroids, years ago. not sure if it is applicable to the model L

bob g

Engines / Re: JP2 big end bolts
« on: March 13, 2022, 04:25:30 PM »

thanks for the info

goes to show and old dog can learn a new trick or three!

everything i was ever taught was to remove the lip/groove at the top of the cylinder, then hone, and then put in the rings with the taper down.  but then again, i was taught nearly 50 years ago, and mainly on mid and heavy diesel engines.

one higher compression engines, i wonder how they keep the ring flutter down?  one would think that the higher compressions and higher pressures from ignition would lift the rings?  but maybe that is not the case on lower compression engines?  maybe even on higher compression engines, if the rings are made stiffer or have added expanders?

interesting indeed,  i could see how a stepped ring would be advantageous if you had a ridge/lip/groove at the top of a cylinder,  having a step would keep the ring from contacting that and being damaged.

i suspect there is a compromise being made, in order to not have to remove the ridge/lip/groove and being able to just give the bore a quick scuffing to remove the glaze and put the engine back together again and get it back in service without having to tear down for rebore or resleeving the engine. i suspect the lifespan is shorter than going with a complete overhaul. 

but what do i know?
i have been wrong before, just ask my wife!  :)

bob g

Engines / Re: JP2 big end bolts
« on: March 10, 2022, 02:04:02 PM »
this tapered ring question is interesting, at least to me...

my experience tells me that i would want the larger diameter (taper up) for the top ring
the reason being is that i would not want the pressure from compression and firing to be able to get between the taper and the bore, otherwise it would want to lift the ring off the bore.

all i have ever seen with other engines places the taper so that it scrapes up toward the cylinder head.

however having said all this, i would be interested to see a reference to what this manufacture has to say on the subject, and maybe their thinking as well?

i am with cobbadog when it comes to torquing, i can't remember any reference relating to torque where one is directed to torque to a set point then back off.  however there is a "torque turn" method somewhat widely used, where you torque to a specific rate, and then advance (tighten further) by some specified amount, such as 120 degrees or some other amount.

i also agree that short of having a specified torque for a bolt from a manual, i would do as cobbadog states, google the size of the bolt (also grade and thread pitch) and get a torque rating and go with that. that generally will get you well within the tolerance given by the manufacture.

bob g

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Conditioning waste motor oil
« on: February 22, 2022, 02:26:51 PM »
one possible way to mitigate the issue is to be selective in the waste stream you use.

the oils used for modern diesel engines now are low ash, no zinc (or very little) so they should burn without as much harmful abrasives being left behind.

the oil manufactures work very hard to keep whatever additives they put in the oil to stay in suspension, and as such are near impossible to remove. and i suspect that even at 1 micron you aren't going to scrub them out with a filter.

at the price diesel fuel is getting to be, it is a fairly easy argument for just filtering as best you can the waste oil, burning it and accept the costs of replacing cylinder kits a bit more often? at $4.00/gal it doesn't take too many gallons to pay for a cylinder kit.

probably would not want to do it in an original antique engine where parts are much more expensive and harder to get, if at all?

as for distillation?  not something i would want to do, temperatures are quite high, pressures, or vacuums needed,  fairly complicated process and then what are you going to do with the residue left behind?  i suspect there will be toxins that in a concentrated form might draw the attention of folks you really don't want to have to deal with.

bob g

Things I want to Buy / Re: Generator head pulley
« on: February 15, 2022, 06:27:17 PM »
after giving the drive system a bit more thought

it might well be the fact that while living in the seattle tacoma area, back when boeing surplus was still open to the public, i loaded up on NOS v-belt pulleys of all sorts.

when you can get martin and browning V pulleys up to as large as 12-14" in diameter and multigroove for pennies on the  dollar, i guess i like most other DIY guys, i bought, and bought, and bought them.  just wish i would have bought more!

i also bought browning belts for a buck a piece!  brand new, some banded multiple groove belts, many matched sets, and a couple of matched sets of the AA hexagonal drive belts i ended up designing my drive to use.

during that time, early 2000's ebay was afloat in alternator drive pulleys that were relatively inexpensive and i loaded up on a bunch of them too.

so i guess it all comes down to what one has on hand and decides to design around.

iirc, and i do remember doing the testing, the AA drive system i designed with the more than 180degree belt wrap, came out to maybe around a bit over 2% loss! that over the direct drive.

it took a lot of testing, measured outputs vs bsfc, a bit of math to derive the the actual losses of the drive system.

5% might be a typical "as designed" loss for the average v belt drive, however that number can be lower with good design.

you know you don't have much loss if you can run for an hour, under max loading, shut down and measure the pulley and belt temperatures and find very little temperature rise.

as far as i know, there are two predominate losses with the belts, one being slippage, the other being flexing/bending.  more wrap dramatically reduces slippage, proper size of belt(s) and diameter of pulleys involved have an affect on flexing/bending of the belts.

i know one thing, that being if i would have measured anything like a 5% drive loss,i would have scrapped that drive and gone to testing a serpentine drive system.

bob g

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