are you using the hand crank?

if so, try to crank the engine without the compression release, you should have a hell of a time getting it to crank over
that would tell me you have adequate compression

also just because the injector appears to be putting out a decent spray pattern, it may not be doing so when pushing against compression, you might need to increase the injector spring tension a bit.

does the engine put out smoke while you are trying to start it?  if it is putting out smoke you are likely getting enough fuel, but it might not be atomized and increasing the injector spring pressure a bit will help.

the right way to check the injector of course is to take it to an injection shop and have them test and set the pressure that it pops off at.

i also agree that you might well do better to get a pulley mounted and spin the engine up using another engine, sometimes you just need the added rpm to get it to light up the first time.

very hard to diagnose this sort of thing from a keyboard/puter screen

fwiw
bob g

wow, and to think that is what i wipe my tushy with?



(sorry i couldn't help myself)

seriously the filter looks to have caught a lot of crap
and it is why i don't like those nasty top feed holes on the listeroid con rods
they seem like a catchers mitt for a lot of crap to be caught and directed into the conrod
and eat the crank pin

bob g

i am not familiar with your specific engine, however

from what you are describing, and based on the fact it will restart when cold
i am thinking maybe a sticking governor spool, maybe gummed up.

when the engine rev's up when you drop the load on the engine by too fast tipping the dump
or clutch the governor weights fly out and the system reacts, drawing the spool back toward no fuel position, the governor normally would catch this and correct for overshoot to no fuel, but if the spool is carboned up on the shaft, or the flyweights are hanging up?  who know's, but my bet is the governor can't catch itself and correct.

i have seen it happen on other engine's with mechanical governors, not often but it does happen, as does a sticking injector rack, which might even be more likely, seen that happen many times over the years.  i would first check all the injector racks, and make sure they move freely from no fuel to full fuel without any sign of binding.

fwiw

probably someone(s) here that can be of more help

bob g

i don't know if i ever saw one with the "electric" motor option, if available i would love a couple of them... having said that i would take a couple of the 165 water cooled compressors without the "electric" option.

having a water cooled small compressor in my shop would be great, compress my air and heat water at the same time would be just great!  save on having a separate water heater having to do the job, and we all know that with the price of electricity/propane and trying to reduce my carbon foot print by being able to harvest heat off the compressor should help save the planet.

wanna be green and all ya know

bob g

i wonder what "iso" means to some of these guys?

i think the "s" has something to do with "sand" and maybe the "9001" is the amount of sand included in grams?

so lets see if we can figure this out

the "I" in "iso" has to stand for "Included"
the "S" in "iso" has to stand for "Sand"
the "O" in "iso" maybe stand for "Only"
and the "9001" is the amount of sand in grams?

yeah that must be the ticket!

 

bob g

fwiw

seems you also might have to be careful how far you screw the tube up into the rod cap?

it has to screw in far enough to engage the lower brg shell, but not so far as to make contact with the crankshaft? 

i seem to remember some discussion on that topic with the listeroids, years ago. not sure if it is applicable to the model L

bob g

this tapered ring question is interesting, at least to me...

my experience tells me that i would want the larger diameter (taper up) for the top ring
the reason being is that i would not want the pressure from compression and firing to be able to get between the taper and the bore, otherwise it would want to lift the ring off the bore.

all i have ever seen with other engines places the taper so that it scrapes up toward the cylinder head.

however having said all this, i would be interested to see a reference to what this manufacture has to say on the subject, and maybe their thinking as well?

i am with cobbadog when it comes to torquing, i can't remember any reference relating to torque where one is directed to torque to a set point then back off.  however there is a "torque turn" method somewhat widely used, where you torque to a specific rate, and then advance (tighten further) by some specified amount, such as 120 degrees or some other amount.

i also agree that short of having a specified torque for a bolt from a manual, i would do as cobbadog states, google the size of the bolt (also grade and thread pitch) and get a torque rating and go with that. that generally will get you well within the tolerance given by the manufacture.

fwiw
bob g

after giving the drive system a bit more thought

it might well be the fact that while living in the seattle tacoma area, back when boeing surplus was still open to the public, i loaded up on NOS v-belt pulleys of all sorts.

when you can get martin and browning V pulleys up to as large as 12-14" in diameter and multigroove for pennies on the  dollar, i guess i like most other DIY guys, i bought, and bought, and bought them.  just wish i would have bought more!

i also bought browning belts for a buck a piece!  brand new, some banded multiple groove belts, many matched sets, and a couple of matched sets of the AA hexagonal drive belts i ended up designing my drive to use.

during that time, early 2000's ebay was afloat in alternator drive pulleys that were relatively inexpensive and i loaded up on a bunch of them too.

so i guess it all comes down to what one has on hand and decides to design around.

iirc, and i do remember doing the testing, the AA drive system i designed with the more than 180degree belt wrap, came out to maybe around a bit over 2% loss! that over the direct drive.

it took a lot of testing, measured outputs vs bsfc, a bit of math to derive the the actual losses of the drive system.

5% might be a typical "as designed" loss for the average v belt drive, however that number can be lower with good design.

you know you don't have much loss if you can run for an hour, under max loading, shut down and measure the pulley and belt temperatures and find very little temperature rise.

as far as i know, there are two predominate losses with the belts, one being slippage, the other being flexing/bending.  more wrap dramatically reduces slippage, proper size of belt(s) and diameter of pulleys involved have an affect on flexing/bending of the belts.

i know one thing, that being if i would have measured anything like a 5% drive loss,i would have scrapped that drive and gone to testing a serpentine drive system.

bob g