Yes it does, I was just curious. Also, package came yesterday. Will do some test fitting this weekend!

32, are you still up for making an offset bolt?

I found it! So looking inside the engine I slowly turned it over to exactly when it clicks, and I could actually see the camshaft clicking the idler gear. What I mean is the camshaft is basically spring loaded from the valves and at a certain point the pressure on the camshaft was causing it to jump forward and make a click sound against the idler gear. So I think my gear lash is a bit too loose. I attempted to measure it with my feeler gauge and I think it’s around a .018 gap.

What’s interesting is it’s seemingly only the number two side valves. I’m concerned it may be touching the piston ever so slightly. One thing I noticed putting it together was that one of the valves was really tightened down and it actually stopped the rotation when I was turning it over. I was doing it very slow with no flywheels so I don’t think there’s any damage, but after gapping the valves correctly it didn’t bind at all….. just those two metallic sounds that seem like they are happening as the exhaust then intake valve are opened.

Hello all,

I finally found some time to put the 12/2 together. I have the bottom and top end all together, just no fuel lines, flywheels, or cooling hooked up. I oiled it up good while assembling, but when I turn it over there is a 2x metallic clank. It seems to occur almost exactly when the number 2 cylinder vales are in their exhaust then intake cycle. It sounds like it may be coming from the camshaft? Any ideas? Is there a normal click clack that I should be hearing when turning it over? I never really turned it over when I got it because there was a little rust in cylinder 1. So I don't really know what is "normal" for sounds.

Cool, has anyone tried using a standard 10" water filter hosing and those paper/cloth filters for oil? I've seen people use them in diy bio-diesel setups to filter the wvo, even when it is being heated.

My Listeroid is a DI engine and it runs well on both BioD and WVO.

BioD - No mods needed. (Except for changing the crappy Indian rubber fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter. It will disintegrate.
           Modern fuel injector hose has a liner which is compatible with biodiesel.

WVO - I heat the WVO on the way to the injector using a Ni-chrome wire heater wrapped around the steel injector line.
            The other option is a coolant heat exchanger which passes coolant heat to the wvo on the way to the injector pump.

Blend - No mods needed (If you choose to run a blend, then no fuel heating should be necessary as the viscosity is already adequate.)

Awesome, thank you for the input.

By the way.... for a lister(oid) you don't have to go to the trouble of making biodiesel.
They run very well on cleaned/filtered waste vegetable oil.
Also consider a blend. 80% veg oil and 20% unleaded gasoline.
Just keep the temperatures high enough for clean combustion (coolant thermostat).
Start on diesel for warm up, then switch over to WVO. Afterwards, switch back to diesel for 3 minutes or so before shutdown.

Do you think that would work alright in a DI listeroid?