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Messages - ajaffa1

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Thanks for the welcome back guys, I do hope that everyone is well and avoiding covid19.

I had a good day today: fitted new piston and rings, fitted refurbished cylinder and cylinder head. The only problem I encountered was that because the cylinder head had been skimmed the locating dowels were about a millimetre too long, had to shorten them to allow the head to seat properly on the gasket.

This is probably not the right part of the forum to be posting pictures but there are a few below, including a photo of the heat exchange I was planning to use. It has a surface area somewhere between two and three times the cooling surface of the cylinder so it should be adequate. I was hoping to mount it vertically and thermo siphon both sides without having to use pumps, I will also have to find some sort of header tank/expansion vessel. You will notice in the pictures that I have raised the hot water cylinder up to facilitate thermo siphoning.


Hi Guys, thanks to you all for your kindness, concern and generosity; it is very much appreciated.

Sorry to have not been on the Forum much recently, been a bit busy cleaning up the mess left by the fires and the floods that hit us several weeks later. All demolition work is now completed and my design for a replacement house is being drawn up by an architect. The local council tell me that they will fast track the application to rebuild.

While all this was going on, I have completed the generator shed I was building to house the Lister CS 6/1. I poured the concrete foundations on 7 November 2019, the day before the fires, with the intention of building a small insulated timber structure. Since then it has transformed into the utilities building for our yet to be built new house. It is now built out of solid concrete blocks and sand/cement rendered inside and out (it will not burn!). It houses the incoming electricity supply, washing machine, tumble dryer and hot water supply. It will also have to accommodate the computer and associated telecoms equipment. The local electricity company connected us to the main supply yesterday so we will be moving our caravan onto site in the coming week.

Remarkably and much to my wife`s irritation, I have found time to get the Lister CS cylinder sleeved and the cylinder head valve seats replaced. I have had to shoe horn the CS and ST generator head into a small corner of the new utilities building. For the foreseeable future it will be used only as a back up generator, however I would like it to also act as a heat source to heat hot water. The new hot water cylinder contains 160 liters of water that is heated by an electric element. It is a mains pressure unit with a pressure relief valve that is designed to blow at 80 degrees centigrade or in the event of excessive pressure, venting hot water/steam into the atmosphere. This tank has four 3/4 inch BSP tapings, one is the cold feed to the bottom of the tank. The second is hot water outlet from the top of the tank, the other two (one top, one bottom) are intended to be capped off. I am thinking to utilize these two to cool the CS via a heat exchanger. Does anyone have any experience of this?

I will try to post some photos tomorrow, once I have got the camera up and running.

Once again, thank you all

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Southern Cross ETB diesel engine
« on: November 07, 2019, 09:35:05 AM »
Hi Cockie, sadly I do not have photos of the completed engine as I have had a devil of a job finding any engineering company willing to fit a sleeve to the cylinder. I now have three cylinders and a cylinder head, for various engines, awaiting machine work in Alstonville NSW. They will cost me around $2,000! I would have done the job myself if I could find a milling machine at a sensible price.

If you need any advice with your rebuild please contact me. I have a few contacts for parts and etc. Once you receive your engine you should register it with the southern cross registry, they will email you a whole lot of information and a service manual. It`s a free service. Good luck


General Discussion / Absence from the forum
« on: October 22, 2019, 12:22:19 PM »
Hi Guys, sorry to have been away. My Father in Law passed away while my Wife was in New Zealand. Had to go to Sydney to make funeral arrangements and deal with the lawyers and etc until she got back. Funeral was on Friday and we got home yesterday.

Engines are a bit of a low priority this week, I will try to get back with the program and forum next week.


Engines / Re: help with Lister D
« on: September 27, 2019, 03:13:09 PM »
Hi Guys, firstly a huge well done to Rich P for sorting out the problem and I hope he gets many years of joy from his engine. I hope his fingers have recovered from the belt he got!  :laugh:

Hi AdeV, I lived in the UK for fifty years and I know how cold wet and miserable life there can be. I now live in Australia so I also know how hot, dry and miserable life can be here. The only advantage of living where I do is motor vehicles usually last three times as long because they are not exposed to the salt on the roads used to combat frost. I would never buy a vehicle that had been used here in a coastal environment either. There a vehicles in central Australia that are forty years old and still have no rust, the engines, bearings and seals are f*cked due to the dust and terrible roads but that can all be fixed, rotten bodywork can`t be.

Hi Mike, I think a small engine ignition system could be made to work, it would not be too difficult to remove the Lister D timing chain sprocket and replace it with the magnetic fan assembly from a small modern engine (Weed wacker or leaf blower) , you would then need to fabricate a mounting for the magneto coil and work out how to time it. Shouldn`t be too difficult.


Waste Motor Oil / Re: Why it is bad to use motor oil as fuel !.
« on: September 27, 2019, 02:28:57 PM »
Anyone playing with these old engines needs to get themselves a piece of old rubber conveyor belt around a half inch thick. Before starting the engine, remove the air filter and ensure you have a flat surface on which to fit the conveyor belt. An engine without air will stop pretty dam quick regardless of what it is burning.

Loved the video, respect for those guys who sorted it out rather than running like F*ck


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: SR-1 governor mystery
« on: September 27, 2019, 02:17:48 PM »
Hi Pinecone9, I`m with Oldgoat all the way on this one, remove the injector pump cover and disconnect the spring using a pair of long nosed pliers. This will allow you to remove the governor assembly cover without damaging the adjustment screw or spring.

Once you have access to the screw wind it anti clockwise as far as it will go, now hit the rusted thread on the outside of the cover with a rotary wire brush in a drill or angle grinder, this should free it up allowing you to remove it if you desire. If you do strip the thread in the aluminium housing do not panic we know how to fix that problem with a Helicoil or threaded brass insert.

Yes it should have a screw driver slot in the end allowing for adjustment and also providing a way to hold it in place while tightening the locking nut.


Hot tanking would be the way to go if you have the equipment, if not most paints can be readily removed with caustic soda, cheap and readily available in the cleaning department of most DIY stores. Please wear gloves, this stuff dissolves paint it does the same to skin, hair and fingernails. Do not use a natural fiber paintbrush to apply, it will also dissolve. Do not allow caustic soda near aluminium or brass components.

Once you have softened/loosened the paint with caustic soda hit the casing with a pressure washer, this should remove around 90% of the finish. I like to clean off the last remnants of paint with a rotary wire brush, these come in all types and sizes to fit electric drills and angle grinders. They are also great for removing any rust.

Once you have it clean, put a coat of primer on it immediately, I can not tell you how disappointing it is prep a casing for paint only to find that it has had condensation form on it over night and the whole thing is covered in surface rust.

Please don`t paint it pink! several years ago I was painting a crankcase and was running out of red oxide primmer, I had a tin of grey primmer and decided to mix the two together, I didn`t dare post the photos as I would probably have got thrown off the forum for being a dangerous extremist, a homosexual or a communist or some combination of all three.  :laugh:

Brunswick green is the original color for a Lister engine but I have seen them looking good in many other colors. One of my favorites was a guy who did his engine with black lead stove polish and linseed oil, it looked as scary as Darth Vader.

Let us know how you get on.


Engines / Re: help with Lister D
« on: September 25, 2019, 02:13:07 PM »
Hi Rich P, welcome to the forum. Do not ever be afraid of being a Newbie and not knowing something, that is the sole purpose of forums like this, tired old guys like me are too old to do the work so we love telling you younger fellas how to do it!  :laugh:

I am no expert on the Lister D but I am old enough to have worked on a lot of vintage engines with magnetos, a D is only a single so we don`t have to consider the distributor cap, therefore there are only seven basic problems that can eliminate your spark:

1. burned out magneto coil. The worst thing to happen and the most expensive to fix. Fortunately you report getting a Buzz from the High tension lead, so we can probably rule that out.

2. Failed High Tension lead from the magneto to the spark plug. This is very common as the old rubber insulation deteriorates with time. Try cranking your engine in the dark and watch for sparks running up the outside of the HT lead. If this is the case replace the HT cable. (cheap and easy)

3. Worn points or incorrect points gap, this is unlikely as your engine was running well previously. It is common for the points to corrode in a wet/damp climate. Clean them with a piece of fine emery cloth. I do not know what the points gap should be for your magneto but I would guess at 10 to 12 thousands of an inch. If you do not have feeler gauges then A4 paper is generally between 2 and 3 thousandths thick, so three strips is too little and four is too much, four strips of paper with a little pressure should get you in the ball park.

4. Condenser failure, these are an electrolytic capacitor and have a finite life. When they begin to fail you end up with a diminished spark and eventually no spark. My best guess is that this fits well with the problem you have. A replacement should be available from Stationary engine parts in the UK or any number of online web sites.

5. Timing, I very much doubt that the spark/ignition timing would have altered since you last ran your engine unless you have been tinkering with it. If you have please let me know and I will try to walk you through resetting it.

6. Corrosion, it is very common to get corrosion between dissimilar metals IE aluminium and steel, for a spark to work it must be able to return to its source via the chassis of the engine and back to the magneto. If you have  rust/aluminium oxide between the two then your spark will deteriorate.

7.Magnetos are so called because they contain a magnet, it is possible but unlikely that the iron core has lost some of it`s magnetism. It is possible to re-magnetize them but this requires specialist equipment.

Hope this is helps,


Lister Based Generators / Re: LD1 Start-O-Matic modified to manual start
« on: September 25, 2019, 12:30:36 PM »
Hi David, firstly my advice would be to get some new governor springs, once these have reached the point at which they are worn through or work hardened/brittle they need replacing. Governor springs should be available from Gary at DES in the USA, Sleemen & Hawken or stationary engine parts in the UK, you could try Rob at old timer engines in Australia. I will PM you the mobile phone number of another useful man in Australia, who might be able to help.

I cheated and took off the head allowing me to remove the entire fuel pump cover assembly. I have posted a couple of photos, please ignore the throttle control mechanism which your LD1 would not have. Hope they help.


Lister Based Generators / Re: LD1 Start-O-Matic modified to manual start
« on: September 24, 2019, 10:17:01 AM »
Hi David, yes you should be able to manually move the rack against the springs in the governor mechanism, the rack should move smoothly without binding.

The spring loaded pawl is a design flaw, as it is a water trap if the engine is exposed to the elements. I had to replace the spring on mine as it had corroded away to dust. When you reassemble be sure to replace the little rubber o`ring or you will have an oil leak.

I will try to get in touch with Ken (guy with the SOM) this week, his property has full off grid solar so he has no need for the old Lister that has not been run for ten years or more. I do not have any specifications for it but from his verbal description I believe it to be an SR1 which should be compatible with what you are trying to do. I should warn you I will never scrap an engine that is salvageable, if it is scrap I will let you know.


Lister Based Generators / Re: LD1 Start-O-Matic modified to manual start
« on: September 24, 2019, 01:09:45 AM »
Hi Davprin, what a pity that the SOM control panel and the two solenoids are missing.

The small lever with the hole in it is the fuel shut off, it is in the fuel off position it needs to be lifted to release the fuel rack before trying to start it. Engine RPM is adjusted by undoing the small locking bolt and rotating the entire assembly. It should run at 1500 RPM to produce 240 volts at 50 Hertz. A cheap hertz meter wired into your generator will help set up the correct RPM, something like this would be ideal

The decompressor lever has gone past it`s working position. It will decompress the valve when it is vertical (12 o'clock position), while cranking the lever needs to be dropped into the 9 o'clock position for the engine to start.

I might know where there is a non running SOM, I haven`t been to see it yet but will post some photos when I do. If the engine is past economic repair you might be able to use the solenoids and control panel to complete your unit. I am near Grafton NSW


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: SR-1 governor mystery
« on: September 23, 2019, 12:28:27 PM »
Hi Pinecone9, welcome to the forum. A most interesting problem you have there. As Old goat has already suggested, you need to pull the cover of the governor assembly. Once that is done you should see something very similar to the photos below. These are photos of a Lister ST, but there should be very little difference between these and your earlier model Lister SR.

I suspect that you have wear in the governor linkages causing the blind spot between the demand for more/less fuel from the injector pump. If you look at the photos, you will see that there is a piston in the middle of the governor assembly that pushes against the governor linkage. If these are worn there could be a small gap between them when running, causing the poor governor control.

If you look at the photos you will see the governor linkage has a brass fulcrum, this would have been originally set at 1/2" from the face of the crankcase, it has a lock nut on it, undo this lock nut. Remove the split pin that keeps the governor arm in place and slide it out of the way, now rotate the brass governor fulcrum by one half turn clockwise (180 degrees). Refit the governor arm and center it on the governor piston now tighten up the lock nut. This should remove the backlash you have in your governor linkage. You may need to adjust your RPM after.


Hi Gadget, sounds to me like you are a man with a plan and the skills to see it through. An 8/1 requires an aluminium piston unless the guys in Rajkot have worked out a way of lightening a cast iron piston significantly.

My original CS stock head had valve seats, despite this, after sixty years of use the valves seats were well out of specification and have had to go to the machinist to have new seats fitted. The cost for this work in Australia (with travel) is around $400. I can have a new cast iron head delivered to my door for less than $300, it will have no valve seat inserts but will probably last 5 years without any issues. Valve seats are really only required in high speed engines where the combustion temperatures and pressures get too high for cast iron. Get your engine up and running, then buy some spares like bearings/bushes, piston and rings and a spare cylinder and cylinder head. Have these blueprinted and pack them in grease before leaving them on the shelf, you are unlikely to need them for the next five years.

Start by stripping your engine down to it`s component parts, clean the crankcase and remove any sand and Bondo, grind out any casting inclusions and then fill them with JB weld (steel epoxy resin). Paint it inside and out, concentrate on sealing the inside with a crankcase varnish like Glyptal, there are cheaper alternatives that are just as good.

I`m with Bruce M about the quality of Indian camshafts, this is one area where the Indians let themselves down. The cam lobes are of good quality being hard and nicely ground, the trouble comes with how accurately the cam shaft has been drilled and taper reamed. They have the same issue with the very well ground cam lobes being badly drilled and taped reamed. A replacement injector pump cam lobe I purchased was 3 mm different from the original.

Anyway I will be trying to lay my concrete floor salab in a week or two and will keep you upto date.


Changfa Engines / Re: Need help with Jiang Dong 1115
« on: September 20, 2019, 10:14:15 AM »
Zeppole, very unusual for an injector pump to fail in such a spectacular way allowing fuel to dribble into the sump. If you examine the injector pump it should have the necessary numbers on it to allow you to order a new element for the existing pump.

Before reinstalling/replacing anything flush out you fuel tank, fuel lines and replace the fuel filter as this problem could only have been caused by a manufacturing/assembly fault or fuel contamination.


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