Hi Weirdfish, Rob at Old Timer Engines in Australia has 5 in stock according to his web site. He will ship overseas.

Bob

Hi NickS, there should be an identification plate on or around the crankcase door on the other side of the engine from your photo. I note there is no starter motor, so it`s either a hand crank start or it has an alternator head with a built in starter motor.

Bob

Hi Macguyverkevin, looks like you have some serious problems, I do hope you have not fried the pistons. They are aluminium and will seize without sufficient lubrication. You are going to have to dismantle to asses the damage if it has not freed up as it cooled down.
I doubt the problem was caused by external the fuel lift pump, these are a diaphragm pump and if the diaphragm perforates they do not pump any fuel and the generator would not start but check it anyway.
Much more likely to be an internal fuel leak, if you remove the crankcase door you will be able to see the three fuel injector pumps. Each pump has a banjo bolt connected to the low pressure fuel inlet pipe, check each of these for leaks. Each pump has a high pressure pipe coming out of the top, check each of these for leaks.
Remove the three rocker covers, you will now be able to see the fuel injectors, each of these has a high pressure fuel pipe connected to it. check these for leaks.
Let us know what you find, good luck.

Bob

Hi Jase, yes there where a lot of different SOM control panels. The very early units had selenium rectifiers/diodes/capacitors and large mechanical relays, as technology improved Lister started using printed circuit boards and modern silicon compomponents. Please post a couple of photos of what you have so we can give an assessment of their suitability. It would also be useful to have some idea of what you are trying to achieve.

Bob

Hi Guys, I would be expecting to find resistances of between 2 and 20 ohms. The diodes should have zero ohms in one direction and megaohms in the other, most diodes have a white or silver band around them at the negative end.
You need to flash the field winding/windings to recreate an electromagnet field/fields. I generally use a 12 volt car battery for this. I would recommend having a look on YouTube before attempting this, try to find a generator that has the same configuration as yours and then follow their instructions. It is also possible to re-energise a generator by using an electric drill or angle grinder, start the generator, plug in the power tool, pull the trigger and manually rotate the chuck in the correct direction. If you are lucky this will produce enough of a back EMF to allow generation to ramp up.
Let us know how you go.

Bob

Hi Listerational, you definitely have a problem there, water boils at 212 fahrenheit at sea level, you are way above that. The only way to stop it boiling at that temperature is to use a pressurised cooling system. Lister/Listeroid cylinder head gaskets do not like pressurised cooling systems. A water pump probably won`t do anything as it is clearly thermosyphoning OK. Four choices: 1. a larger radiator, 2. swap the radiator for a vented hopper, 3. fit an electric fan to the radiator, 4. fit a pulley driven fan.
You should be able to find a suitable fan at a local scrapyard, if you are going for an electric fan try to find a pipe thermostat to turn it on and off, otherwise it will take a long time to warm up.

Bob

Hi Phil, Lister owned a company called Brush which made generator heads. Hawker Siddeley took it over. I do not know if they redesigned the generator heads they made. It could be that you have a brush style generator head which incorporates a starter motor. Photos of the slip rings/commutator and all surviving wiring would certainly help. We may be able to create our own wiring diagram.

Bob

Hi Eric, after the Australian bushfires in 2019 I had to live in a 20 foot caravan for several years until we found a new home. The caravan had a 240 volt , 15 amp power hookup to a Lister CS6/1 with an ST generator head.  The electric air conditioning unit was a very compact single unit that was built in under the seats in the "living room". This unit would maintain the temperature at around 22 centigrade with outside air temps of around 40C. I was running mineral diesel at around $1.2 a litre so it worked out quite expensive. I also had to turn off the air conditioning if I wanted to boil the kettle, but that shouldn`t be a problem with a 12/2.
Some freight/shipping containers have a very effective cooler/freezer unit built in. These are electric units with a backup petrol engine should be easy to adapt one of those to run directly/mechanically off a Lister, might be very noisy!

Good luck.

Bob