Puppeteer

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ajaffa1

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 106
1
Lister ST2 (might be SR2) with a Brush SCAFF generator head, probably rated at around 7KVA. You will probably need to replace the old selenium rectifiers with modern silicon rectifiers. 1800 RPM indicates 60Hz so most likely a 110 volt output. Would have been built in the 1970s.

Bob


2
Hi Daryl, a worn rack on a fuel injector pump will certainly affect the effectiveness of the governor. Definitely better to go for a CAV pump rather than the modern Mico Bosch equivalent, the modern one does not have a hole in both ends of the rack, so you can not fit the starting pawl, so they can be hard to start. Rob at Old Timer Engines will sort you out. You will need to check the spill timing once you have fitted your replacement pump.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Bob

3
Engines / Re: JP3 Change Over Valves.
« on: May 28, 2023, 11:31:29 PM »
Hi Papster, the best way to decarbonise an engine is to inject water into the inlet manifold when the engine is hot. A household squirty bottle is ideal for this. Squirt the water in at a rate that just starts the RPMs to fall. You will need to do this once with the compression valves open and once with them closed, should clear the carbon.
There are proprietary products like Seafoam that will do the same thing.

Bob

4
General Discussion / Re: 6/1 generator build
« on: May 25, 2023, 11:44:40 PM »
I know exactly where you are coming from, I`m just short of retirement myself. Doing stuff just gets harder every day. I`m a bit ahead of you, my shed is done, still got to do the solar and an awful lot of landscaping and tree clearing. Hope to have it all done before I fall off the perch.
What sort of controller are you looking at for the CS setup?

Bob

5
General Discussion / Re: 6/1 generator build
« on: May 24, 2023, 10:54:47 PM »
Hi Glassblower, sounds like a plan. I am planning to fit an electrical inlet on the outside of my shed, this will allow me to hookup any one of my many generators when we get power outages.
Be warned the 8/1 is only a 6/1 with an aluminium piston allowing more RPMs, you will need a smaller pulley on the ST if you want to use that extra horsepower.

Bob

6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS6 Loose flywheels
« on: May 24, 2023, 10:42:54 PM »
I doubt there is enough meat in the bosses to take taperlocks. I think I would be building the crankshaft up with weld and machining it back to it`s original size, alternatively you could buy a new Indian crank. I would then braze the two damaged flywheels and machine them back to original dimension. You are going to need a lot of heat for the brazing and access to a big lathe to do the machining.
Let us know how you go.

Bob

7
General Discussion / Re: 6/1 generator build
« on: May 23, 2023, 11:36:45 PM »
Very nice work. Welding in the wind can be very challenging but it looks to have come out OK. A 30 Amp outlet is a bit excessive, the 6/1 will stall at between 10 and 15 amps.
Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Bob

8
Hi David, parts suppliers depend on what country you are in. Gary at Diesel Electric in the USA supplied all the bits for the ST2 I rebuilt. He is very knowledgeable and ships worldwide. The cylinders can be rebored out to +40 thou and oversized pistons come in +10,20,30 &40 thousands of an inch. New cylinder barrels are also available and might be cheaper than a rebore, depending on where you live.
Check the condition of the oil pump, it is hidden under a plug on the bottom of the engine, no point rebuilding an engine with no oil pressure.
If you can find a Brush SCAFF type generator head it has an integral starter motor/alternator as well as the 110/240 volt generator, better than hand cranking. Failing that you might be able to get a gear ring that will fit.

Bob


9
I very much doubt that you will  be able to recreate a SOM as they require a Brush generator head with it`s built in starter motor. The S series lister engines do have a mounting for a regular starter motor on the back of the flywheel housing, check to see if there is a toothed starter ring on the flywheel. I am not sure if this could be used to recreate an SOM The wiring could be very tricky.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Bob

10
Engines / Re: decarboning....how to?
« on: May 17, 2023, 11:07:46 PM »
Water injection will only clean up the carbon deposits in the cylinder, it won`t do anything for the exhaust ports and muffler. I have never found anything that will clean the exhaust ports other than elbow grease, I doubt that a pressure washer would work but give it a go and let us know. The deposits in the muffler happen because these slow speed engines don`t get the mufflers hot enough to burn off the deposits. If you have a wood burning stove chuck the mufflers in and leave them overnight, the carbon will burn off them, sadly, so will the paint so you will need a can of high temperature spray paint. A blow lamp will do the same thing, I have used this technique many times on mufflers off 2 stroke engines which also have a bad habit of coking up.

Bob

11
Good day, I largely agree with Oldgoat. Lister made a lot of generators based around their S series engines (ST, SR, SL). These had two solenoids mounted at the governor end of the engine. The front one is the fuel control solenoid and is connected to the fuel injector pumps, when energized it releases the fuel control racks allowing diesel to be pumped up to the fuel injectors. This solenoid is a latching solenoid with two coils and a small internal relay switch. During the start up process, 12 volt dc is fed through the two coils opening the fuel supply, once the solenoid is open the small relay switch is triggered turning off the voltage to one of the coils and the solenoid is able to stay open on just one coil.
The second solenoid is a 240v unit (110volt for US models), this is connected via a spring loaded linkage, to the two decompressor levers on the top of the engine. During start up the engine spins up without compression, as the generator head starts to produce electricity this flows to the solenoid coil opening it and pulling the two decompressor levers into the run position allowing the injected diesel to ignite.
These engine would have been set in the factory for 1500 RPM for a 50HZ generator or 1800 RPM for a 60 HZ output. My ST2 had some throttle adjustment available to fine tune the output.
Hope this is helpful,

Bob

12
Well done VP, The best thing about your video is the big smile on your face! The Deutz runs very well, starts easily and sounds wonderful.
I hope you manage to fix the fuel line drip.

Bob

13
Hi VP, very frustrating little problem you have there. In the past I have had to make replacement high pressure pipes, most car brake servicing centers stock 1/4" steel hydraulic pipe.
You could probably braze the crack but be careful to remove all the flux from the inside of the pipe, you don`t want it getting in the injector.

I`m one of those Damn Brits! I had the intelligence to leave that small island a long time ago.  :)

Bob

14
Well done VP, a nice restoration of a part of our heritage, very nice to see first smoke on your videos. Looking forward to seeing the trolley you make and a fuel tank fitted.
Another one saved from the scrapman!  :)

Bob

15
Looking good VP. I hope she starts up easily after all your hard work. Looking forward to the video. What are you going to restore next?

Bob

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 106