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Messages - ajaffa1

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 113
1
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister 12-2 Flywheels
« on: July 01, 2024, 11:04:48 PM »
Hi Samo, Rob at Old Timer Engines in Queensland will probably have what you are looking for. He used to have quite a few CS engines that were beyond economic repair.

Bob

2
Generators / Re: New member here. Trying to get info on this geny
« on: June 25, 2024, 11:43:33 PM »
G`Day Raymason. I have fixed a couple of these Brush SCAF type generator heads. They are unusual in that the rotating armature incorporates the generator windings with slip rings and also a starter motor/dc generator with a commutator ring. Your model appears to have 8 slip ring brushes, so you should be looking at 4 slip rings. My best guess is that you have one neutral, one 240 volt and two 110 volt slip rings.
There are four commutator brushes which feed the built in 12 volt DC starter motor. This also acts as a DC generator which recharges your battery while the generator is running.
The engine RPM determines the AC frequency, yours appears to be set at 1800 RPM to give you 60Hz to match the 110 volt/60 HZ grid in the USA. You may need to reduce the RPM to 1500 if you live in an area with a 240 volt/50Hz supply.
The `A` at the end of the engine serial number normally indicates that this engine is designed to turn anticlockwise.
Could you please post some photos of what you find as you investigate further.
Bob

3
Lister Based Generators / Re: 1925 Lister 2T and Generator
« on: June 16, 2024, 11:34:04 AM »
Hi Bent Trigger, yes there is a lot of internal dirt shown in your photos. There is a product called flushing oil which will remove most of it without a complete disassembly. Get the unit running and then drain out the oil. Replace the oil with flushing oil, run the engine up to normal working temperature (probably around a half hour run but follow the instructions on the tin), drain out the flushing oil and replace with regular oil. Do not throw out the flushing oil, let it settle and it can be reused.

Bob

4
Engines / Re: Lister LD2 engine stalls
« on: June 12, 2024, 11:02:34 PM »
Good Day Rene, Yes the manual specifies .05 mm (0.002 inch) for both inlet and exhaust, to be set with the engine cold.
Stationary Engine Parts in the UK should have all the gaskets you need (www.stationaryengineparts.com), failing that you could try Mead Plant, also in the UK. Rob at Old Timer Engines in Australia has the gaskets but postage might be expensive and slow.

Bob

5
Engines / Re: Lister LD2 engine stalls
« on: June 10, 2024, 11:30:12 PM »
Hi Rene, I agree with Cobbadog. I recently had a small Honda petrol engine in my workshop, it was overheating and seizing after only a few minutes run time. I striped off the covers and found that all the cooling fins had been filled up with mud wasp nests.
The only other thing I can think of is that you have some sort of lubrication problem, possibly too little oil, wrong grade of oil or oil is contaminated with diesel.
Has this engine been rebuilt/rebored recently? It could be that the clearance between the pistons and cylinder walls are too tight or that the piston ring gap is too small.
Let us know what you find.

Bob



6
Well done VP, a beautiful restoration and the non original fuel tank looks like it grew there. I particularly like the homemade trolley. Looking forward to seeing what you decide to restore next.

Bob

7
Well done VP, that should do the job on the return line. Make sure you remove as much flux as possible, nasty corrosive stuff, very bad for fuel tanks, lines and injectors.

Bob

8
Hi Beaka, I owned and ran an ST2 Startomatic for many years. I am guessing that your fuel shut off solenoid is the same as on my SOM. The governor, governor spring, injector pump rack and linkages are all internal and get lubricated with sump oil so they wear very slowly.
The fuel control solenoid and it`s linkages are all external so they wear much faster because very few people bother to lubricate them. These can easily be adjusted to shorten or lengthen the linkage as required. Another issue with these old solenoids is that they get filled with dust,rust and other detritus that prevents them from achieving their full travel. Adjusting the external linkages is nothing to be afraid of. A couple of pics attached.

Bob

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Hot Water Circulator Max Temp Rating.
« on: June 01, 2024, 11:45:06 AM »
Hi Powdermonkey, I`m sure it works very well in Florida. Try it somewhere where temperatures drop below freezing at night and you will be looking for a new cylinder block. Sufficient ethylene glycol antifreeze for a 50 gallon barrel is going to cost many hundreds of dollars.

Bob

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Hot Water Circulator Max Temp Rating.
« on: May 28, 2024, 11:59:23 AM »
Hi Listerational. How much load do you have on your 10/1? The more the load the more the fuel injected and the more heat that will need to be dissipated. A modern car radiator ought to be adequate if you consider that most small 4 cylinder engines only produce about 100 HP. So, in theory you have 10 times the cooling that is required, however your engine is stationary rather than going along the highway at 100 KM per hour, so it lacks the airflow normal in an automobile. Modern vehicles generally have a temperature sensor mounted in the top of the radiator, this is connected  to an electric fan so that your engine does not overheat while you are sat at the traffic lights. You might want to consider implementing a similar system.
At sea level water boils at 215 fahrenheit. Your engine is running at slightly higher than that so it ought to be boiling however a pressurised system will boil at a higher temperature. Lister/Listeroid engines were never designed for a pressurised cooling system, the cylinder head gasket isn`t upto the job.
You don`t say how your radiator is mounted. Most people assume that it should be mounted verticals as it is in your car. This is incorrect for a stationary engine, it is much better mounted at a 45 degree angle in a thermosyphon set up. This allows the thermosyphon to work while also allowing natural airflow through the radiator. In your case you have a water pump in the system so you should probably mount the radiator near to horizontal to achieve the maximum natural convection cooling through the unit.
I  am concerned that you have an electric water pump in your system. Does this have a bypass? Without a bypass your engine will quickly overheat in the event of a pump failure.

Bob

11
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamford in a box
« on: May 22, 2024, 12:14:52 PM »
I have used both copper and Dowty washers in many situations in the past. Of the two I prefer annealed copper because it does not decay like the neoprene O'Ring in a Dowty washer. Many years ago I had to fight a fire in a very large air compressor, a dowty washer had been weeping cooling oil onto the internal electric drive motor. The vertical chimney and cooling matrix was also full of cooling oil. When it caught fire it went up like an atomic bomb. Four engineers managed to control the blaze until the fire fighters arrived. Hundreds of thousands of dollars of damage!

Bob

12
Well done VP. Your new pipes look excellent. Glad you are feeling well enough to get back to what you love doing.

Bob

13
Lister Based Generators / Re: Time for generators
« on: May 13, 2024, 12:01:46 PM »
Hi BruceM, I`m hoping the wiring insulation is going to be OK. There are four things that PVC hates: time, hydrocarbons, heat and rodents.
This was made in 1976 so it`s old enough for time to have taken it`s toll. I had to replace a lot of exposed PVC cabling around the engine.
There was a leaking diesel fuel line that some idiot tried to fix with a pipe clip rather than replace the rubber fuel line, so the entire unit was covered with diesel that had dried into a nasty sticky varnish. This was previously owned by the New South Wales State Emergency Services, a hot day up there would be 50+ centigrade in the shade, plenty of opportunity for PVC to degrade. I did dig a few mouse nests out of the sound proofing but haven`t seen any eaten cabling yet.
I have lived through one mouse plage and seen the damage these little buggers can cause, just as an example; they tried to get into my chest freezer, they could not get in through the top because I had loaded it with concrete building blocks. Didn`t stop them from eating all the wiring and insulation underneath the unit! They also ate the rubber water pipes on my Wife's car, luckily we only took a short journey and didn`t seize the engine.
I`ll let you guys know how it goes.

Bob

14
Everything else / Re: Current limiting device
« on: May 13, 2024, 11:21:25 AM »
Hi Veggie, I am a little curious as to what you are trying to achieve. You have told us that you have a 1000 watt grid tied inverter connected to a 24 volt DC battery bank. How are the batteries being charged, solar panels? Are the batteries being charged from the grid during the day and discharged back into the grid at night?  Are you trying to run off grid at night? Much more info required please.

Bob

15
Lister Based Generators / Re: Time for generators
« on: May 12, 2024, 11:27:56 AM »
G`Day again, my next job is to strip paint and service this control panel, I hate electrical work.

Bob

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