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Messages - mikenash

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1
General Discussion / Re: Car engine ignition conversion
« on: January 23, 2020, 04:39:07 PM »
TM40 pumper carb.  Good bit of kit.  Have put lots of them on large Japanese singles over the years.  Lots of jet info on line for them.  You'll want to come down a long way on the accelerator pump jet in an application like that or it'll bog when you open the throttle.  Any sort of stationary application imho you want to remove the accelerator pump linkage altogether as a trial

2
Listeroid Engines / Re: another disaster: silver gunk in new oil
« on: January 14, 2020, 05:58:00 AM »
FWIW I'd drain and clean as thoroughly as possible and put in something like "Morris" type straight 30 and run it and see what happens?

Maybe even do that twice?

Is that semi-synthetic you have there?  Maybe some odd reaction?

Good luck

3
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister 6/1 startomatic
« on: January 12, 2020, 03:17:19 AM »
I wonder if maybe the higher voltage related to higher RPMs?  Original 5/1 at 600 and later 6/1 at 650?

Or maybe that's just dumbass layman-doesn't-understand-electrical-generation thinking?

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: DIY Short block
« on: January 09, 2020, 05:15:35 PM »
Primo!

FWIW I would suggest some reinforcement at the big top threads.  Simply on the basis that for longevity a thread should be, minimum, the depth of its diameter plus a turn or two

Cheers

5
Listeroid Engines / Re: DIY Short block
« on: January 09, 2020, 08:06:17 AM »
If you had a precision-cut, dowel-and-pin type fit, bolt-together construction imho that would be more do-able

Imagine a structure that basically hung on three sections:

Two vertical side-pates with cutouts and threaded holes to take TRB crank, cam etc bearings - maybe ex M12?  And a horizontal top section, relatively small in cross-section so it wouldn't have to be too heavy, with re-inforced areas where the barrel/head tie-down studs thread in and where it abuts/is fastened to the vertical pieces

After all, the rotational loads are balanced, and the power output is only a handful of kW, and, while there's a lot of torque - there's not a LOT of torque

Think, for example, how light the alloy case of a 200 BHP, 13,000 RPM Yamaha R1 or GSX-R1000 is - it's not about material mass, it's about understanding the loads & applying good engineering design principles

6
Tried to put some $$ into there but the site doesn't like my debit card and I don't want to use a credit card online like that - anyone else have any issues with it?  Cheers

7
Everything else / Re: Can anyone identify this?
« on: November 23, 2019, 06:27:15 PM »
People like to play with the carb adjustments when the saw won't run or won't rev cleanly or won't rev properly - it seldom turns out well - often you inherit a saw that has been so tinkered-with that it won't run even with good spark & compression

Based on my experience, here are some thoughts

(1)  Empty all the old gas out of the tank, put in a wee bit of new clean gas and shake it around to give it a flush then tip that out too

(2) Get a bit of bent wire and fish out the fuel filter and blow it clean with compressed air then fill the tank with fresh 2-stroke mix - maybe 25:1 or 32:1 with that old saw?  If it should be 40:1 a bit extra won't hurt short-term.  Use good quality 2-stroke oil such as Husqvarna or Motul - something that is designed for chainsaws not lawnmowers and that says "suitable for 2% or 50:1 mix" on the label

(3) Remove the aircleaner (it'll need a good clean before it goes back on), open the choke and tip half a teaspoon of gas down the carb.  Close the choke, turn it on and pull a few times.  It should splutter, start, run briefly and then stall.  Try it a couple times.  If that doesn't work, probably tinkering with the carb won't fix it

If that does work, then . . .

(4)  Carb settings:  There will be two screws probably side-by-side on one side of the carb.  High speed mixture and low speed mixture.  Also somewhere there'll be an idle speed device - probably as a throttle stop?  With a bit of luck on the plastic housing there will be two screwdriver holes marked maybe "H" and "L" (high and low) or similar?  It'll be obvious that you need a small flat-bladed screwdriver

Blow the whole area clean with compressed air and screw both screws in gently until they stop.  Then screw them out again one and a quarter turns (probably one and an eighth is gonna be closer to ideal but one and a quarter will get you started)

At those settings the saw should start and run and rev (but probably not rev very cleanly) and it might idle of the throttle stop is OK

If that stuff works OK you should google "chainsaw carb tuning" or similar to get it just right

The aircleaner needs to be spot on clean and in good shape too

Good luck

8
Changfa Engines / Re: Need help with Jiang Dong 1115
« on: November 17, 2019, 06:43:52 AM »
Any hydraulic place will sell you copper rings or - perhaps better - "doughty washer" rings.  Just take the banjo bits along and ask.  Cheers

9
Lister Based Generators / Re: Four cylinder Lister Engine pair
« on: November 10, 2019, 03:03:58 AM »
It may be that 20-odd BHP won't run a 40" chipper?

I seem to remember maybe a 60kW motor on the timber chipper at the last mill I worked at?  Been a while, and I could easily be wrong?

Might be worth doing some homework first?

Cheers

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: DES 8/1 generator build
« on: November 09, 2019, 06:02:39 AM »
"spares kit" is a great idea, yes

11
Everything else / Re: Diesel Heaters
« on: November 04, 2019, 07:27:41 AM »

That would have been a Brilliant Conversion!
Shame your brother didn't appreciate it.  Must have taken some doing to get that configuration Motor  in there!

I had a google and of course there are some vids.  They fit in the hole really well!  And it's an older Toyota (read bullet-proof if you maintain it) with good low-RPM torque.  What a good conversion!

Beats hell out of the just-waiting-to-explode Ford V6.  Only good thing about that was the acceleration from the combination of the low final drive ratio and the 90-odd HP

12
Everything else / Re: Diesel Heaters
« on: October 30, 2019, 05:06:03 PM »
Interesting

For many years I had VWs - owned maybe eight or ten in the years before we had cheap Japanese cars available here.  My ex-wife wrote off at least four of them . . .

The last was a '70 bus with a 3-litre V6 Ford Capri engine which fitted in the hole in the back just nicely

Great to drive, but when it finally did what every Ford V6 engine does and expired in a cloud of expensive oily steam I bought a Toyota and have continued to do so

350,000 miles is impresive

13
Lister Based Generators / Re: Cheap Lister Generators UK based
« on: October 27, 2019, 03:02:27 AM »
Beautiful-looking genset.  All you need to do now is get rid of that truck and buy a Toyota and you'll be set  :)

14
General Discussion / Welders
« on: October 22, 2019, 07:13:38 AM »
Hey Bruce (and others)

We talked about home welders & related stuff a while back - probably in the context of "what machine do I need?"  So maybe there is some value in the following thoughts:

See pics?

This is the little single-phase welder I use all the time out of my service truck running off the generator you see in the pic (see detail, nominally a 7500W machine).  This welder likes the generator and runs just fine off it

One of our suppliers has a slightly different variant of the 16TC 7016 Low Hydrogen electrodes I normally use for everything and I bought a box to have a play and did a rough test-piece (see pic detail)

Tomorrow when its cool I'll cut some slices off it and attack them with the press and the sledge-hammer so see if there are any faults

The test piece is an inch thick and used about 3 or four pounds of electrodes (to use American dimensions) and the little welder did a close-to-100% duty cycle - just the time taken to swap electrodes and chip/wire brush as it's only down-time - running at about 60/70% of its nominal 170A capacity

The point I wanted to make is that, while current ratings are a bit nominal, I started off the first ten or fifteen runs at 125A and the final five or six at 100A as the piece got hot and I was working closer to the surface

I'm a fan of these inexpensive (but not "cheap") Chinese-sourced, Australian-branded welders and the inexpensive (and only slightly cheap) Chinese Honda Clone generators

I'm expecting that if there are any faults in that test-piece they'll just be the result of a pretty causal approach on my part but that penetration etc will be good

FWIW I would conclude that - unless you're working on Serious Heavy Machinery - that a nominal 7500W (Chinese watts with a lot less torque than American/English/Lister watts) and a nominal 150A or so of welding capacity is plenty for most applications

Maybe the DC output is 30 or 35V?  On that basis, say, 150A is kinda 5000watts?  Whatever the arc-striking current draw is at 125A, it seems to be well within the range of the nominal 7500W Chinese generator

Cheers

15
Hi there

Please see PDF attached which is a summary of some work by one of the "Masters" on here a while back

Briefly:  Valve clearances are about (a) operating clearance and (b) valve open-and-closing timing

(b) being the thing that matters as long as there's working clearance

So see PDF?  Try using the valve clearance adjustment to open the intake and close the exhaust at the degrees of rotation (timing) as per the PDF and never mind the actual clearance . . .

Others may wish to chime in?

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