Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - mikenash

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 55
1
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: rpm limit
« on: October 13, 2021, 07:09:18 PM »
Hello Bruce,

I am not sure what part of the world you stay but there must be a time difference between us I am in the far north of the UK.

I am generating 220Volt 50 hz it is a old type BKB start o matic
 
Do you think that the photos I sent of the voltage cut out will work on the AC 220volt
I could get one for the 24 volt charging side and set it to trip at 28 volt (that's a guesstimate). you could please advise on the upper voltage trip setting.

the reason that I believe that the 220 volt side wont work as well is because I have one of that device that plugs into a socket then you plug in a load IE: light or heater into it. it has a screen that reads the voltage, amps, hertz . when the unit is plugged in on its own the engine dose not start. then the heater is switched on the engine starts when the heater is switched off but still plugged into the device the engine still runs until the device is switched off. if this makes sense. I only use this plug to test check the volts amps hertz

I am unable to run the engine over rev at the moment because when she over reved she brunt out the charging resistor. I have sent for 0.8mm wire to rewind the resistor.

Regards

John

John in my industry we have simple diesel engine controllers in use out on farms all over the place.  They're made from off-the-shelf components.  They just do simple stuff like track revs and oil temp & pressure and start/stop on a signal.  Several of them use the Hz signal off the diesel engine's alternator to control revs - ie, as the revs rise, so do the hertz and the controller uses this info to talk to the little ram that's attached to the throttle arm

If you had a google, there might be info about a simple version of this?  If you have or wanted to fit a simple automotive alternator - taking a signal off that might be easy and I guess you could set limits with a simple controller

Folks here who know more about this stuff may chime in?

Cheers

2
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel energy
« on: September 29, 2021, 06:47:49 PM »
Not with that cooling he won't

3
Changfa Engines / Re: 165F engines back on Ebay
« on: September 22, 2021, 07:43:48 PM »
Cool.  They sent you a spark-plug spanner

4
Engines / Re: Lister D now running....but small fuel leak
« on: September 15, 2021, 07:22:46 AM »
Small generators and water pumps are common some air compressors are out there. I was going to build a 'Prony Brake' one time which was going to be a little bit involved but it demonstrates the HP of the engine and would really load it up for short periods of time.

Just find an old open-drive air-mover fan - they're the easiset load around

5
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ashwamegh cooling ..part 2
« on: September 12, 2021, 07:56:03 PM »

So back on this for a moment....

Radiator,  fan , pump and plumbing installed.
The wiring and plumbing are temporarily during testing.

I have not installed thermostat's at this point and am running the pump and fan while running.
On a 90 F day the water discharge from the heads are running about 180 F in shade with about
a 5 F rise in direct sunlight. This is with a 4K load......

Just a comment - folks who work on water-cooling heat-exchangers and the like will tell you that more is not better.  There's an optimum rate at which water flowing over surfaces can take heat away from them and increasing that flow can reduce the efficiency of the process rather than improve it?  I have seen this several times in heat exchangers which are cooling hydraulic systems.  In those cases it was better to increase the size of the water reservoir dramatically so that water entering the heat exchanger was always cool - rather than to cycle water faster.

Better-educated folks will know the numbers on this, so just a comment.  Cheers`

I ordered a larger water pump as the "yard sale" pump I don't believe will move enough water when
the t-stats are installed. The pump now moves 1.3 gallons a min. vs the new pump will move 3.2 .
I will probibly machine the water exhaust manifold to hold a stat for each head.

I spent some time setting the rack adjusting the exhaust temps and managed to get them within 8 degrees
or so of each other. I'm happy with that.

Enjoy !

6
General Discussion / Re: Any steam engines left?
« on: September 07, 2021, 07:47:04 PM »
More nostalgic than anything else but would also be good for emergency emergency power. I.E. You can't get any fuel for your normal emergency Lister power. We had an ice storm once that was so bad you couldn't buy any fuel anywhere as there was no electricity anywhere to power the station pumps. Outages lasted a couple of weeks. Doesn't take but a few days to use up your reserves. If anything really bad happens there won't be any natural gas either to power those inefficient gas generators everyone is being conned into buying. Thanks to the tree huggers (whose tree's are now all burning down), the natural gas distributors are no longer allowed to burn natural gas to power the compressors that send the gas to you the customer. It's all electric now. Texas is a prime example of what can happen, seems the tree huggers got control of things there somehow before last winter. Next thing they'll have to use mule powered compressors with EPA emissions controls on the mules.

While extremely inefficient, steam could get you by until you could get other means back running. After all, you could burn just about anything to "raise steam". Our pioneers had been known to burn dried cow and buffalo chips, and even cook doing that. Not sure I would like my dinner meat smoked like that though.

While you COULD go out there and build a steam engine, imho you'd be better off just filling a couple of 200 litre drums brim-full with diesel and leaving them in the back of the shed

I'm inclined to add that trying to build a complex, high-maintenance bit of kit as s solution to a relatively simple problem is probably - and I do stress this is just a personal opinion - about as effective as blaming the greenies for everything from herpes to yellow snow around the Husky encampment

Six to eight horsepower would be good. Steam engines are a bit "cool" anyway. Steam still remains a good way of heating too, and in that use is just as efficient as some modern means. This gives a double use for the boiler.

7
General Discussion / Re: 3 pin Temperature Sender
« on: September 04, 2021, 08:25:58 AM »
Hi Mike,
Boy haven't I been left in the dark with improvements. I have not heard of these type of senders but I do live almost at the back of a cave here in Oz.

Pretty common diesel engine speed controller - simple when you think hZ = RPMs.  We have them on Deutz air-cooled diesels.  Cheers

8
General Discussion / Re: 3 pin Temperature Sender
« on: September 01, 2021, 08:06:22 PM »
That is a tricky one, running off the alternator. Voltage output won't run a tacho, or I don't think it can unless a cable runs to the back of the alternator. The "UP" side of the boat cruising further away from you is that you get off the hook!  ::)

Anyway I'm sure you can work something out and you know my thoughts about replacing the gauges with new ones and best choice are mechanical gauges and not electrics in my books. Having said that I'm still very interested in the outcome of the project and hope it all works out well.

We have diesel engine RPM controllers here at my work that take a signal off the alternator - they simply sample the Hz and use the increase/decrease in that as an indicator of engine RPM.  Cheers

9
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: August 28, 2021, 08:05:25 AM »
Hey Bruce I was reading what you were saying about threads and sealing issues.  Are you comfortable that your fittings do have the threads you think they do?  I don't know if it's the same over there - but here there is often confusion, especially in hydraulic or pressure systems, with JIC threads being mistaken for NPT

Similar threads but different sealing systems. If you wanted to google JIC (Joint Industry Council so another SAE thread) I'm sure there'd be endless detail online

Sounds like a fascinating project.  Well done

10
Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: August 26, 2021, 07:41:30 PM »

Mike,

Very nice job there. A very good furnace and cooking surface.
With winter approaching, you will be the one that the women of the tribe choose to breed with  ;D

cheers

By crikey - that'll be a disappointing experience for them

As a father of four, grandfather of (if I remember rightly) 11 going on 12, and with a baby great-granddaughter - my line is secure; for whatever that's worth.  But at 64, I'm pretty sure my breeding days are over lol

Good on you

11
Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: August 25, 2021, 10:20:09 PM »
Hi guys

I recognise this is a topic in which few people are interested.  However there has been some conversation around it, I have a goal and I am working towards/maybe getting close to achieving it – so I continue to witter on about it as I play with it

What I want is a clean-as-possible oil-burning space-heater

If it will work efficiently adapted to the front of my wood-stove - with the added benefits of heating the top-plate and putting some energy into the wetback – then all the better

What I don’t want is the complexity of fans, solenoids, controllers etc.  I accept that that way lies efficiency.  It’s just not what I’m after

One of my motivations is the availability of large quantities of a “clean” oil without combustion by-product or garage workshop contaminants – just a heavy oil somewhere in the 180-240 range, maybe, with occasional contamination by metal fragments and sometimes small amounts of water

I have many 200-litre drums of it.  I figure if I let it stand for a year or two then use the top 150 litres of each drum without disturbing the rest – it should be effectively “clean”

Our small country is back in a Covid lockdown so I was isolated at that site for a few days and took the opportunity to refit the unit to the wood-stove and do a test burn for the first time since fitting a needle-valve into the drip tube (see pics and vid?)

It’s easy to get a consistent rate of feed with the new valve

The 1.2-litre top tank provides a margian of safety in that its capacity is quite a bit less than that of the burn chamber at the bottom.  So it’d be pretty near impossible to flood the place with burning oil or anything like that

I’m using that aforementioned oil 66%/33% with diesel.  It wouldn’t surprise me if a lesser dilution would work well too – and if it was pre-warmed, I think that stuff would burn just fine at 100%.  After all, it just has to drip and vapourise.  We’ll see. One thing at a time

I burned a 5.5-litre container of oil mix in four and one half hours.  That’s burning at “full throttle” and understanding that the engine of the unit is the flue; and that once the burner is red-hot and burning quietly and steadily – there’s nothing to gain by trying to feed it more oil than it will vapourise

The tube with holes in it is 125mm and the bend is 150mm

See the “clear blue sky” pic?  That’s my flue, mid-burn, and there’s no visible smoke at all

Equally there’s no smoke, vapour or smell (apart from a small hot smell) in the shed

The top plate of the stove doesn’t get as hot as it does with a fire in the firebox, of course.  But it’ll cook eggs-and-beans OK, or boil the kettle . . .

Please see a couple of images and very low-tech video attached.  Cheers

See link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1ZWFcQo6CI


12
General Discussion / Re: Any Lister engine experts in Nottingham?
« on: August 15, 2021, 08:09:18 AM »
If it was me, after changing the fuel filter on the engine, (Crosland 489 or its equivalent), and after bleeding out the fuel system as others have suggested. If the engine still does not run satisfactorily, then I would be tempted to jury rig a temporary gravity feed fuel arrangement which would connect straight to this filter inlet, even if you had to refill the fuel tank every hour or so of running it would at least get you mobile.

and that will tell you if you have a problem with the fuel feed or if it is elsewhere too


13
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« on: August 05, 2021, 08:52:20 AM »
is it stupid to say that if you use some thin paper gaskets to pack out one or both of the main bearings a thou or two from the case - that would be any easy way to introduce some end-float & learn what is needed?

Cheers

14
General Discussion / Re: listerengine.com forum
« on: August 01, 2021, 07:48:02 AM »
Thanks to both you guys.  Much appreciated

15
General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 20, 2021, 07:47:34 PM »
Thank you!  I am not sure which kind of clutch assembly I would use.  I just learned about these engines a couple of months ago.  I like what I have learned so far - the durability, economy and simplicity.  Cons - heavier than a "modern diesel" but I think I can accept that.  It look like something that I could take apart and fix myself, which is a huge plus!

So far, the optimal solution is: belt to air compressor; belt to generator (the generator will power charging for a 48v battery pack, as well as other tools); and belt to water pump;

When I get my specs drawn up I will be back with more questions.

Here in NZ the Listers were used very widely until the '70s in rural areas.  The thing they did most of was drive shearing sheds (sheep).  This was done with a flat-belt drive from the Lister to an overhead lay-shaft - often five or ten or 15 metres long, which drove multiple shearing "stations"

Your engine would easily drive a lay-shaft from which you could take other drive - then you'd have modern pulleys, bushing, hub-centres, bearings etc.  Easy to work with.  Cheers

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 55