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Messages - tyssniffen

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Listeroid Engines / Re: injector washer size - of 6/1
« on: December 06, 2021, 06:03:05 AM »
I donít get to Harbor Freight often enough. I could use the measurements if you can find the time.

Listeroid Engines / injector washer size - of 6/1
« on: December 04, 2021, 01:57:43 AM »
anyone know how to describe - that is, the specs - of the copper washer for the injector?  I know I need a new one, and I'd like to get a batch, and I'd like to do it without taking the current one out. 
also, anyone have a source?

ok, well, sounds like my radiator is too big for the sort of running I'm doing.   interesting.  I'll try and get a thermostat in the system.   Suggestions on where to check temps?   I could use one of those digital laser things and track temps of different parts over time....

I will also up the load.    Glad to hear it's not the slower speed.

interesting.   well, no, I don't have any other metering on my load than volts and htz.    The head sure heats up though, where my 40 gal radiator tank (sitting outside the shed, in not-too-cold northern California) gets almost too hot to touch.    I have a simple kil-o-watt meter, but I can't easily put that in line, as the higher amp plugs don't fit it.

Getting more load on while charging the house isn't difficult of course.  In fact, I have TWO AC chargers (I have 2 battery banks) and could easily run them at the same time. 

But, just to really check - you really don't think the slower speed was the problem? and that running at 580 is BETTER than running at 650?

So, I realized what it probably is....  and so I should confess.   I forgot that I'd set up an experiment (that I thought was going GREAT) where I was using a smaller pulley on the ST - so I was running slower than 650.   probably 580 or so.    Everything about running slower was better, except, I guess, the carbon build up.
I've switched back to the bigger pulley and am running at 650.  I'll report back, and continue to use my water drip system as well.

Listeroid Engines / Re: timing adjustment for WVO to reduce carbon build up
« on: September 20, 2020, 05:54:58 PM »

Doing the mental arithmetic, I'm still having trouble seeing it as a Timing issue unless your timing is Waaaay off..... at which point I think you'd have certainly starting if not running troubles.

She starts pretty easy... when I have cleaned the injector, it starts up.

I would Check your compression firstly and if you are comfortable, Pull the cylinder and check those Ring lands.

I did do the full take apart in the last 12 months, and checked/cleaned all rings. (might have replaced one, can't remember now) and everything seems in regular shape... though I might not recognize cylinder damage or something.

A quick and easy way to bump the timing would be just add 10% RUG and see what happens.

sorry, what?  change the timing by 10%?  as in change where the injection happens so it's 10% further around the flywheel?  Is there an easy way to translate that 10% to twists on the timing nut?

What happens if you run say 3-6 Hours on Diesel? Do you get the same problem?

haven't done that in a while, and when I have, I've not ONLY done that  - but sometime this fall, I'll give that a go.

I just can't see how with what you are doing this can be happening unless there is a Compression or a severe timing issue that would affect the engine on any fuel.  What sort of a Load are you putting on it when it is running?  It's not either running with minimal load or over loaded and smoking is it?

yeah, weird, right?  and it seems to me that compression is ok, as it starts well.  My typical load is my house - adding power to the battery bank.  Because of the lack of decent sine wave coming off my Chinese ST, I run an AC charger -
input voltage: 108-132 VAC
input watts: 900 w
input freq: 50-60
output volts: 54.4vdc
output amps: 13

but I don't really know how much it truly pulls.  You can hear a slight bear down when it's connected.   But NO, I am not running this thing at max load much ever.   Occasionally I will run a big powerful table saw and during big cuts it will really slow, but that's 10 times a year for 2 minutes each, tops.

Listeroid Engines / Re: timing adjustment for WVO to reduce carbon build up
« on: September 13, 2020, 09:07:13 PM »
So, thanks for all the replies on this. To clarify some of the thread drift here: I am running very well strained and dry waste vegetable oil. It is not hydrogenated oil, and stays liquid to low temperatures.  Hydrogenated oil acts more like butter in that it is solid at room temperature, and then warmed comes to liquid. (Hydrogenated means Ďwith water... so, yuck)

I am also doing the water injection to try to deal with some of this carbon buildup. Running water at the same rate as fuel.

How I know Iíve got a lot of carbon buildup, is after maybe a handful of three hour runs, the next time I go to start, I can tell the injector is blocked. I can pull the injector quickly, clean it off, test it for good spray (not drip), put it all back together, wrap pretty easily. On store-bought diesel.

I am completely open to being convinced that I can run completely on WVO, but Iím obviously got something wrong that seems to stop me from succeeding at that. I live in northern California, where it only gets to freezing one day a year, so cold temperatures are not a serious problem.

Seams almost certain I have a timing issue with this kind of fuel. How do I figure out how to get my timing set up better?

Listeroid Engines / timing adjustment for WVO to reduce carbon build up
« on: September 10, 2020, 06:37:16 PM »
sorry, I know this has been discussed; I spent time searching but can't find a clear answer.

I know that the timing can/should be adjusted based on fuel type, and I thought I had succeeded at this, but I think I need to work harder at it.

One problem that I believe I'm creating is that I've always bought into the idea of starting and stopping on store bought diesel, and then switching over to WVO.  I've actually never succeeded at starting on WVO, perhaps due to my timing issue, or other variables. 

Still, I'm struggling with lots of carbon.   So I figure I need to tweak the timing... but what's the testing process?  How many turns on that nut under the pump per test?   Like, do I set the timing different a few degrees, run for 3 hours, pull the injector, see carbon, turn the nut (5 times?) run for 3 hours, pull the injector, look for carbon, over and over? 

Or am I just not switching back over to diesel soon enough? Does it need to be run on diesel to scrub it up for 30 minutes or something?   

Obviously, I'm flailing around here. 

Listeroid Engines / Does water flow around 6/1 posts?
« on: May 11, 2020, 09:57:28 PM »
So, yes. Water flows around the posts... but does it have to? 

As I continue to fight with my 6/1 gasket (yes, I know about taking it to a machinist and getting it flattened), Iím wondering if I could use gasket goop *just* around the posts, which seems to be where my water problem comes from. 

Listeroid Engines / Re: gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 28, 2020, 04:50:15 PM »

There's no good reason not to use a little gasket sealant around the waterways, just make sure you go the right side of the bolts...

Of course, if one had a 12/2, one could do the experiment by installing the gaskets opposite ways up on each cylinder, and trying it out. Should anyone wish to ship me a 12/2, I will sacrifice the time to do the experiment, in the interests of science, obviously :)

the next time I have a 12/2 all boxed up and no where to go, I'll send it your way.   

Are you saying - giving me permission - to use extra make-a-gasket sort of material around the holes, IN ADDITION to the copper spray stuff on the copper gasket?

Listeroid Engines / Re: gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 22, 2020, 09:43:23 PM »
Well, if youíre really asking - I see 1 picture of a copper gasket- that looks like it goes to. A 12/2, with unique sized holes based on the stud bases... so I know that gasket isnít the same as the one in my hand, so itís impossible to know if that 12/2 had the same ridge as mine, making the whole post impossible to learn from.

Listeroid Engines / Re: gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 22, 2020, 04:56:25 PM »
As water seepage appears to be a problem on some Lister engines, It might be worth giving them a hit with this stuff. Isn't exactly cheap but seems to work well and truly as advertised in my experience.

I soaked my last one (perhaps put in the wrong way up??) with copper spray, and still had problems.  I will soak it again.

Listeroid Engines / Re: gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 22, 2020, 04:55:25 PM »
Hi Tyss

Original ONLY can go one way.

And the side of the ridge stay faced down.

THIS is what I wanted to know.   The completely smooth side goes up, the side with the slight ridge goes down. 

Listeroid Engines / Re: gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 21, 2020, 04:33:22 PM »
A copper gasket is just a thin sheet of copper.  Your pic seems to show some thick material in the middle ?

this is the style my machine came with, and what I've been told is the standard gasket.

I think the consensus is that this style leaks easily, and that the style with RTV sealer around each hole and a crimped on fire ring for the cylinder, holds up well.

Well, I've previously used this sort:

and had trouble with that as well.    I had one of those in place (perhaps not cranked down hard enough) but after sharing a photo of it, I got a lot of advice here https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8711.msg101309#msg101309  that it was the WRONG type.   Thus, I went back to the smooth copper. 

Just look at here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg103752#msg103752

The original gaskets (and original Lister) has 2 large holes and guides to fit the gasket in correct way!

Sorry, but I don't see this showing *which side* of the copper goes up.  It's not the orientation, as the studs and holes force a specific sitting... it's which side is up and which side is down - that's the question.

Listeroid Engines / gasket for the 6/1 - which side up?
« on: February 21, 2020, 03:01:37 AM »
So, this seems like a really dumb, but really important question, if in fact it does matter.

I'm looking at a brand new copper gasket for my 6/1, and there's a slight difference between the sides.  One side has a bit of a ridge:

and the other side seems completely smooth:

Which side should face the sky, if it matters?

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