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Messages - cobbadog

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19
1
Engines / Re: Lister
« on: June 30, 2020, 07:22:52 AM »
Not a good thing to try and run them backwards at all. to change the rotation is a bit of work but can you get the reverse rotation by driving off the opposite end of the crank shaft and if it is a crank start change to electric or make a starting dog for the other end.
Out of curiosity, what is the application?

2
Engines / Re: how adjust pushrods for GM90
« on: June 25, 2020, 06:57:49 AM »
Well done, glad your up and running again.

3
Engines / Re: how adjust pushrods for GM90
« on: June 24, 2020, 06:59:06 AM »
I am not familiar with this model engine but having one push rod shorter than the other is unusual unless it is a hit n miss engine with an atmospheric valve.
I always use Google to get my torque settings by size of bolt and thread type. This has never been wrong even after the fact I found out torque settings in a manual and Google search was spot on.
Maybe a picture of the rods and valves might shed some light on it but soon enough someone will be able to set you straight.

Have you looked online for a workshop manual for it, this also might help.

4
Engines / Re: Engine ID question
« on: June 20, 2020, 12:54:39 PM »
My SR2 Lister is a strong engine and easy to crank start on our Liner Roughrider dumpy truck. So long as you keep good oil and fuel along with filters in them they will run for ever.

5
Finally got the injector back together today so will post pics of it assembled later but here are the last of the parts made up to do the job. There is a new spring on the needle, a roughly made grub screw to hold the cup in place and a new copper crush washer that I annealed even more to ensure a good seal when installed.
The grey length of cast iron is for making new valve guides for the head and I have some new valves apparently available but cannot confirm until next week.

6
Engines / Re: Engine ID question
« on: June 20, 2020, 06:56:52 AM »
G'Day Ruairi and welcome to the Forum.
The numbers you have posted are only casting numbers from the foundry so they dont identify your engine. On my twin Lister there is an id plate to the right of where your fuel pump is and possibly up a little bit. Plate is around 2-3" wide and 1.5" high. This is what you need to turn yourself upside down to find ir better still give that job to your son. It might be a bit easier to find with those air ducts removed.
At least it looks clean and tidy down there so that is a bonus. Is it in running condition and are there any problems with the engine?

7
With weeks of part time work done on the Hyvid/Brons fuel injector I have finally got it all the way apart and cleaned up. I have used some valve grinding paste both coarse and fine to re-seat the bottom needle to help stop compression blow back and all I need now is 2 new copper gaskets and a new spring for the needle then it can be assembled ready for action. I am making new valve guides for the head, am looking at 2 new valves also and the new set of piston rings are somewhere between N.Z. and here.

8
Well I stripped the oil primer and had to remove the plunger from the brass tube, clean it all up and as suggested I simply reversed the plunger so that it was back to original specifications and not with all the wear on it. I tinned the end of the brass tube and sweated it back in place without having to remove the outter casing by heating it up through the bottom where the check valve should have been. I welded the plunger back into the cap then made a new gasket to fit between the body and hopper. My brass tube was still there so I made it to the new length as it was a bit too long, tinned it and again heated the brass tube and soldered it back into the body. Some silicone and then bolted it back into place.
I did a test on the bench by putting some oil in the case with the plunger installed and sitting down. No oil came out. I started lifting the cap up and down and it started pumping oil out so it is a win. It is amazing how much oil it displaces each pump.

9
Engines / Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 04, 2020, 11:38:03 PM »
Expense, why throw it away when almost any oil will do exactly the same job and these engines do not justify the advanced technology, just a waste is all.

10
Engines / Re: Lister Sr1 Identification and parts help
« on: June 04, 2020, 07:02:57 AM »
That is a good thought but are they a sucking or blowing fan?

11
Engines / Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 04, 2020, 07:02:00 AM »
For your engine oil, depending on the local temps where you live but a 30W/40 or 50 mineral oil is best all round oil. Try to avoid synthetic oil. These engines were designed many years ago and are very tolerant to oil grades.
Some guys will throw any cheap oil in their engines and all with no apparent problems but I like to stay as close to original specs where possible. Here in Australia we label our oils slightly different to how they are done in the UK but STOU type oils are very popular with tractor owners over there.

12
Cheers, look forward to seeing how it all works out for you.

13
Engines / Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 03, 2020, 12:31:51 PM »
Ok, have you found a manual as yet for your engine model? This may help you decide if the marks you describe are genuine or put there by someone else. It really helps a lot to post pics with the questions to help others give you the best replies.
Ive not had to strip one of these down as yet so sorry I can't offer any ideads to orientation but again a manual will confirm it. The other thing to start doing is to take as many pictures as possible as you strip it as this can answer these questions for you simply by going back to the pic and confirming your thoughts. I fortunately did this when restoring a David Brown Cropmaster tractor and needed to confirm the correct position of the 3 point linkage arms back to being original. I went back about 12 months and found the pic that set me straight.
Keep looking for a manual, one will turn up.

14
Engines / Re: Lister Sr1 Identification and parts help
« on: June 03, 2020, 12:24:23 PM »
The crank handle supplied here is reversible. Lift the spring loaded pawl up and turn it the opposite way which can catch many people out. Engines are normally identified definately if CCW direction by letters at the end of the engine / serial number.
NO offense taken about your comments, they are valid and if we all dont ask questions we dont learn. Now with engine trouble shooting it is a question I often ask especially if it is exhausting out the air intake when running. Some time ago many people were troubleshooting this problem and we all wrongly assumed that it was a CW rotation and it wasn't until after a couple of weeks of ideas to try that a picture showed the CCW on the engine number.
Once that was identified and the pawl in the crank handle facing the right way the engine ticked over perfectly.

15
Engines / Re: Lister Sr1 Identification and parts help
« on: June 02, 2020, 12:44:14 PM »
Very true but sometimes we don't always get the full details so asking if there is any other letters or numbers gets that resolved, wouldn't you agree?

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