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Messages - cobbadog

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General Discussion / Re: Engine identification Lister-Petter HR2
« on: April 12, 2021, 07:22:02 AM »
Let us know how you get on, I do find it interesting.

General Discussion / Re: Engine identification Lister-Petter HR2
« on: April 11, 2021, 12:21:09 PM »
Thanks for the reply. As I suggested there is a huge section on those 2 alternatives plus another 3 so that will keep you busy reading for a while.

General Discussion / Re: Engine identification Lister-Petter HR2
« on: April 11, 2021, 05:28:25 AM »
Hi Chris
Not sure what these are (WMO WVO) but assume they are alternative fuels. I have had no experience with these but there is a big thread on this Forum that covers this topic. I have no clue if they cause any excess wear and tear or not. I have been to Rallies where you can smell cooking oils being burnt in diesel engines and all it does for me is make me hungry.
Not sure of the cost of refining your own fuels and the time and trouble to make them or how much energy it takes to make it in the first place. All of these things you can find out in that area which is specially designed to help you out.

I have removed injector/s and inverted them and connected them ack up o the fuel line and cranked the engine over to give me a very rough idea that the nozzle is actually atomising the fuel. But as suggested best way to check is on a pop off tester sothat they can be adjusted if required to the exact pressure required for your engine.
YEs carbon sparks is a good indication of carbon inside and possibly what got it on the move is the 2 stroke oil and not the engine oil.

General Discussion / Re: Engine identification Lister-Petter HR2
« on: April 10, 2021, 12:55:18 PM »
lovely engine. hopefully you will change all the filters to be certain that all is in best condition. Engine oil, air and fuel filters. If doing the fuel filter then remember to bleed it all the wa along the fuel system. I bleed mine when needed into and out of the fuel filter housing then inlet and outlet of the pump then at the injector. It just makes it so easy. May even be worthwhile slipping the fuel tank off and cleaning it inside as well.
If you intend to put the engine back to work then I would run the engine and get it warm then drop the old oil out, maybe even a flush out with some kerosine and drain that too then add the new oil and filter.

Hi Chris and welcome to the Forum the numbers you have posted of 202 50012 would only be a casting number for that component and not the engine number which is what will be needed to date the engines.
As sirpedrosa has posted there should be a id plate ivetted to the engine block and most likely near the fuel pump. If you do find this then be very careful in removing any paint from the plate. The  numbers will be stamped into the plate but the writing telling you the details will be painted in black paint usually. Details on the plate will tell you engine number, model, hp and RPM. Engine number is what is required to date the engine/s.

General Discussion / Re: Engine identification
« on: April 04, 2021, 04:52:11 AM »
Hi Daniel and welcome to the Forum.
I assume it is a Lister? Are there any other pieces of information you can add to what you have listed already?
The more info you offer us the easier it is to identify. eg, if it is a petrol engine what magneto is on it, if you know the differences between them.
Lister engines are a very easy engine to work on, parts not so hard to find but may need to be bought in from the UK if no suppliers are local to you in South Africa. When I stripped and rebuilt an engine recently there was no information on it at all other than the occasional comment online as it was rare and old engine built here in Australia. So something I suggest you do is remove one thing at a time and take photos, lots of photos as a reference as to how it goes back together.
Is the engine free and turn over ok? That is half the battle the rest is easy.

Engines / Re: Lucas RS1 Magneto Workshop Instructions
« on: April 02, 2021, 06:24:44 AM »
I've already listed some manuals for magnetising, Rs and SR Lucas magnetos further up the page ready for you to download.

No brains and happy with out them.
A company out here in Queensland named Southern Cross used to do similar experiments to rate the HP of the engines. One contract they had tendered for needed a 12HP engine and they had a 10HP so they set about increasing the rating by increasing the rpm. It did work so they kept increasing the rpm until it did explode. The flywheels were the first to let go and parts of them were found down the other end of the railway yard where they did the test.

General Discussion / Re: Welding from a Listeroid/ST generator rig
« on: March 03, 2021, 05:53:57 AM »
This is a very simple form of doing a static balance and is a good start to getting it better than not balanced at all.
With what is called X,Y & Z axis these are terminology used in the machine shops for milling and machining.
These are;
Forward and Back
Left and Right
Up and Down
So I'm not sure how any other axis can come into play here other than the rotational direction on the vertical plane. It should not move left or right nor up and down.
So doing this simple test and correction using stick on wheel weights is the safest way to go because drilling out excess metal is a final one way journey for balancing and only recommended to be done by experts in balancing engines etc.

At least if they are serviced you know then that they are good. Talk to them first and also consider doing the pumps too.

To check the injectors they need to be removed. Then you can reconnect them to the fuel line and wind the engine over and watch the fuel spray. It must be a very fine spray. DO NOT put ypur hands in front of the spray as it can piece the skin and make you very unwell.
As for other possible causes you would need to check tension on the flywheel bolts. Are your filters clean because if it is starving for fuel or air this can upset the apple cart. Is there anything hanging off the prop underwater or a piece mising off it? Is there a bend in the prop shaft.

General Discussion / Re: Engine paint
« on: February 09, 2021, 10:58:35 AM »
Mid Brunswick Green was a popular colour on Listers unless it was in an industrial set up when they were a Yellow.
I have painted a few engines from stationary, mowers and tractors.
I have used high temp engine enamel and 2pak paint straight onto the bare metal.
On the mower the top of the cylinder and head the paint burns off using high temp engine enamel, same with the exhaust manifold on the tractor using 2pak and stationary engines are great when water cooled but head still burns it and air cooled engines have the same issue as the mower.
Aparently there are some very expensive ceramic coating paints that I think require baking on that will stand up to the job but I have only seen one job painted in that stuff and the engine is not running yet, it has to wait for the restoration of the car first.

General Discussion / Re: Glort gone awol
« on: February 08, 2021, 05:23:47 AM »
I look at it like this and that is everyone is entitled to their views, we dont have to always like them but it is they way life is. It would be very boring if we were all the same.
Sometimes I didn't agree with statements made by posters, so I either stopped reading that post or thread and went onto the next. I didn't take it to heart.

Engines / Re: Lister K 1917 fuel-oil pump
« on: January 22, 2021, 10:51:56 AM »
Some pics of it together and apart would help as well.

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