Let us know how you get on, I do find it interesting.

Hi Chris
Not sure what these are (WMO WVO) but assume they are alternative fuels. I have had no experience with these but there is a big thread on this Forum that covers this topic. I have no clue if they cause any excess wear and tear or not. I have been to Rallies where you can smell cooking oils being burnt in diesel engines and all it does for me is make me hungry.
Not sure of the cost of refining your own fuels and the time and trouble to make them or how much energy it takes to make it in the first place. All of these things you can find out in that area which is specially designed to help you out.

lovely engine. hopefully you will change all the filters to be certain that all is in best condition. Engine oil, air and fuel filters. If doing the fuel filter then remember to bleed it all the wa along the fuel system. I bleed mine when needed into and out of the fuel filter housing then inlet and outlet of the pump then at the injector. It just makes it so easy. May even be worthwhile slipping the fuel tank off and cleaning it inside as well.
If you intend to put the engine back to work then I would run the engine and get it warm then drop the old oil out, maybe even a flush out with some kerosine and drain that too then add the new oil and filter.

Hi Daniel and welcome to the Forum.
I assume it is a Lister? Are there any other pieces of information you can add to what you have listed already?
The more info you offer us the easier it is to identify. eg, if it is a petrol engine what magneto is on it, if you know the differences between them.
Lister engines are a very easy engine to work on, parts not so hard to find but may need to be bought in from the UK if no suppliers are local to you in South Africa. When I stripped and rebuilt an engine recently there was no information on it at all other than the occasional comment online as it was rare and old engine built here in Australia. So something I suggest you do is remove one thing at a time and take photos, lots of photos as a reference as to how it goes back together.
Is the engine free and turn over ok? That is half the battle the rest is easy.

No brains and happy with out them.
A company out here in Queensland named Southern Cross used to do similar experiments to rate the HP of the engines. One contract they had tendered for needed a 12HP engine and they had a 10HP so they set about increasing the rating by increasing the rpm. It did work so they kept increasing the rpm until it did explode. The flywheels were the first to let go and parts of them were found down the other end of the railway yard where they did the test.

At least if they are serviced you know then that they are good. Talk to them first and also consider doing the pumps too.

Mid Brunswick Green was a popular colour on Listers unless it was in an industrial set up when they were a Yellow.
I have painted a few engines from stationary, mowers and tractors.
I have used high temp engine enamel and 2pak paint straight onto the bare metal.
On the mower the top of the cylinder and head the paint burns off using high temp engine enamel, same with the exhaust manifold on the tractor using 2pak and stationary engines are great when water cooled but head still burns it and air cooled engines have the same issue as the mower.
Aparently there are some very expensive ceramic coating paints that I think require baking on that will stand up to the job but I have only seen one job painted in that stuff and the engine is not running yet, it has to wait for the restoration of the car first.

Some pics of it together and apart would help as well.