1
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 8-1 Startomatic no voltage output
« on: August 26, 2014, 02:55:58 AM »
Actually, I found a print and i think i went from the main field (SFW) brush holder to the field side of the resistor SFR.
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2
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 8-1 Startomatic no voltage output
« on: August 26, 2014, 02:37:25 AM »
Well, 2 months have gone by and i've completely forgotten the details of what i did. Do you have a schematic? I'm away from the machine and my documentation now but if memory serves, there's 3 fields, main, aux and series. The series is for starting, the aux is for full loaded regulation and the main provides most of the field. On the schematic you can see these fields and you want to energize the main field with the same polarity as shown on the print. I think I put the 24 VDC on one of the big studs and one of the resistor taps in the box on top of the alternator.
Best,
Jim
Best,
Jim
3
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 8-1 Startomatic no voltage output
« on: June 26, 2014, 10:26:07 PM »
Update!
Sure enough, put 24VDC to the main field and she slowly came up and then zoomed up to 230 VAC!
Sure enough, put 24VDC to the main field and she slowly came up and then zoomed up to 230 VAC!
4
Original Lister Cs Engines / 8-1 Startomatic no voltage output
« on: June 26, 2014, 09:07:27 PM »
Well, she's up and running with new brushes but there's no voltage output. My generator knowledge is limited at best, but I seem to remember on long dormant machines they can lose their magnetism and need to be flashed with a battery to get the field excited. Does this ring a bell with anyone? I don't have the adequate 24 VDC power to get it started but if I push the start button and roll by hand it will motor until my battery charger trips out so i'm assuming at least the series field and armature windings are good. I just hope the main and aux fields are good. Any ideas out there?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Removing and replacing oil thrower rings and felts
« on: June 13, 2014, 02:45:20 AM »
"We have access to a superbly equipped workshop complete with a coordinate measuring machine (COORD CMM) for conformity testing of parts which have either been manufactured or imported. Only with these facilities can we guarantee the quality of the parts we have available"
Now that right there is funny!
The oil ring I got from sep was the same width as the ring groove, they told me to lap it down and belittled my mechanical skills. But I'll bet that CMM accurately indicated the thickness! The small end bush I got from sep wouldn't fit my wrist pin when installed in the piston, they told me to ream it which I did, right into the steel shell before it would fit, they again belittled my mechanical skills. (my piston is genuine lister). There CMM is about as accurate as my wife's measuring tape.
I've since ordered all my parts from sleeman hawkins and they've all fit beautifully.
Now that right there is funny!
The oil ring I got from sep was the same width as the ring groove, they told me to lap it down and belittled my mechanical skills. But I'll bet that CMM accurately indicated the thickness! The small end bush I got from sep wouldn't fit my wrist pin when installed in the piston, they told me to ream it which I did, right into the steel shell before it would fit, they again belittled my mechanical skills. (my piston is genuine lister). There CMM is about as accurate as my wife's measuring tape.
I've since ordered all my parts from sleeman hawkins and they've all fit beautifully.
6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Removing and replacing oil thrower rings and felts
« on: June 10, 2014, 12:49:04 PM »
If your shaft is messed up and you don't want to cause damage to bush or slinger by pulling them, you could probably remove the anti-rotation pin on the bush, pull the housing and leave the slinger and bush behind. I'm not positive it would work but I think it's worth a try, maybe someone more experienced will chime in. One other thing you might consider is if the gib keys are single use items or can be reused, if reusable I'd be careful to keep up with which side they're from as I see quite a bit of info regarding fitting of the keys.
7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Removing and replacing oil thrower rings and felts
« on: June 09, 2014, 11:00:51 PM »
Is the original slinger damaged? If not, I'd reuse it before using the one from stationary engine which you'll have to upset about 1/8" and then it's still disgustingly loose. I ended up making my own rather than use the stationary engine one.
8
Original Lister Cs Engines / 8-1 Injector return line
« on: June 06, 2014, 03:56:19 PM »
What is the purpose of the return line? I've yet to see any fuel out of it, granted I've only run it with no load.
9
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Made some smoke today.
« on: June 05, 2014, 12:21:52 AM »
She runs like a champ so far, I haven't wound her up to full speed yet because its not bolted down. That got me looking at balancing and mounting threads, holy smokes those were some posts! Should have brushes next week so I'll be getting onto the startomatic side.
10
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Made some smoke today.
« on: June 01, 2014, 04:51:05 PM »
Mike,
Might you use ether for cold weather starts or is there a reason not to with these engines?
Might you use ether for cold weather starts or is there a reason not to with these engines?
11
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Made some smoke today.
« on: June 01, 2014, 04:45:01 PM »
Smoke = oil, right?
On the timing, nothing more to it than matching the O's and I's on the gears right?
On the timing, nothing more to it than matching the O's and I's on the gears right?
12
Original Lister Cs Engines / Made some smoke today.
« on: June 01, 2014, 03:59:33 AM »
She's back together other than the electrics. Since I had the crank turned down to accommodate the tapered sleeves the starting handle doesn't really grab the shaft good enough to get a good purchase on the shaft. I did get a few puffs of smoke but she didn't start. I spent a lot of the day chiseling and filing the keyway deeper and i have some stock coming monday to make a bushing for the handle.
BTW, when yall start by hand; do you get it rolling with the exhaust valve lifted, then release the exhaust valve and keep cranking by hand or do you stop cranking before releasing the exhaust valve?
BTW, when yall start by hand; do you get it rolling with the exhaust valve lifted, then release the exhaust valve and keep cranking by hand or do you stop cranking before releasing the exhaust valve?
13
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: What's the adjustment screw below the injector pump for? 8-1
« on: June 01, 2014, 03:52:49 AM »
Next time I'd like a quicker answer 
BTW, head studs fit great, thanks.
BTW, head studs fit great, thanks.
14
Original Lister Cs Engines / What's the adjustment screw below the injector pump for? 8-1
« on: June 01, 2014, 03:34:25 AM »
There's a screw and locknut below the injection pump which probably applies pressure to the pump tappet, what's it for?
thanks,
thanks,
15
Original Lister Cs Engines / What is this cam for?
« on: May 26, 2014, 07:16:46 PM »
It's on the end of the fuel rack.
