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Messages - ristle

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister Wire Sizes
« on: June 15, 2014, 08:03:26 AM »
80/0.4 = 80 strands of 0.4mm wire

37/0.9 = 37 strands of 0.9mm wire
Indeed. 80*(0.4 mm)˛*pi/4=10 mm˛. 37*(0.9 mm)˛*pi/4=25 mm˛. Thanks!

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: SR3 Controller Unit,
« on: June 14, 2014, 03:32:32 PM »
The easiest way is probably to look up the diagram in the back of the users manual. It's pretty straightforward. The cable lug type terminals on the dynamo are marked + and -. You connect - to the starter motor and + to an ammeter in the controller unit. Then there are two faston type terminals for the excitation marked A and F. You connect those straight to A and F of the charge controller. The charge controller needs - from the battery. Inside the control unit you loop WF of the charge controller through a warning light and the "ignition" switch to + from the battery. This battery plus is also connected to the other end of the ammeter.
Those older engines were usually switched off mechanically by a remote (bowden) wire to the shutoff valve on the injector pump.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister Wire Sizes
« on: June 14, 2014, 03:09:34 PM »
I came across a wiring diagram for the starter motor in a Lister Petter Handbook. They recommend a 37/0.9 from the battery to the starter and 80/0.4 between the starter and the dynamo. They must have forgotten that physical quantities consist of a value AND a unit. Do you have an idea which units they are referring to? Neither AWG nor SWG or mm^2 seem to make sense here.

Things I want to Buy / Oil seal HRS6 turbocharger
« on: May 18, 2014, 08:53:40 AM »
Hi there!
Does anybody know how I get a oil seal/overhaul set for the HRS6 turbo? In the parts list I see the entire turbo only. Smokes a lot when leaking...

Generators / Re: Brush AC/DC Generator-Starter wiring
« on: June 04, 2012, 06:16:10 PM »
Try placing the power factor correction capacitors on the refrigerator compressor, downstream of the relay/thermostat (the caps still go line to neutral).  That way, the caps are only on the line when the motor is.  Size each capacitor for each fridge.

I am not an expert on power factor correction but this seems too simple to be true. The manual states: "The use of split phase type induction motors is not recommended with SCA/SCT generators", wherever you put capacitors or not. Another argument is that if it would be easily possible to perform a good PFC on fridges, the electrical suppliers would force the fridge manufacturers to implement it.

So to me it sounds the combination of a current transformer together with a voltage transformer (and a rectifier needed anyway) in the generator/starter is the better alternative. However, I need the transformer ratios... Any help appreciated.

Generators / Re: Brush AC/DC Generator-Starter wiring
« on: June 03, 2012, 06:33:36 PM »
Hm, after reading carefully the generator will not be of much use for the planned purpose of running fridges. Fridges switch on and off so it is not easy to do power factor correction by capacitors.

What do you think, is it possible to reconfigure this machine with current and voltage transformers for better performance on inductive loads? Which devices are needed and where do I get them?

Generators / Re: Brush AC/DC Generator-Starter wiring
« on: May 28, 2012, 05:34:20 PM »
Dear FrederickW
You made me soo happy!! Of course the complete manual of the machine is the best help possible but I gave up even asking for one because of so many unsucessful trials. Thank you very much.

On my machine somebody took the rectifier out and also the middle ring of the potentiometer.

I am also fascinated about the beauty of the physics in this machine. It has no separate exciter machine, no transformer and no voltage regulator. It includes starter, battery alternator and main generator in one item. Looks elegant and rock sturdy!

The longer I work with synchronous machines the more they fascinate me.



Generators / Brush AC/DC Generator-Starter wiring
« on: April 26, 2012, 09:01:36 AM »
I have a Lister ST1 with a Brush SCTF117 alternator. This seems to be a combined alternator that generates both AC single phase and DC 12 V. It looks like the 12V part can be used to start the engine too. The alternator has two slip rings and a collector. I have three external power resistors and I suspect a fourth to be missing. One of the resistors controls the charging current for the battery.

Unfortunately I found many wires disconnected so I need to know how to connect again. You could help me by:
a) Post connection diagram No. E9840256
b) Tell me the type of the AC and the DC machine (synchronous/asynchronous, series/shunt wound)
c) Tell me how many resistors there are and if there must be another device like a voltage regulator

Any help appreciated.

Regards, a Lister enthusiast

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