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Messages - 32 coupe

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1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ashwamegh cooling project
« on: November 28, 2021, 05:19:31 PM »
 
I used 2 t-stats.  I used the stock water manifold off the heads. A little grinding with a
die grinder and a couple of home made gaskets.

I am further along now. New pump and plumbing.  I will post some new pictures soon.


Gary



2
Listeroid Engines / Re: Leader 8-1 rebuild epoxy question.
« on: November 14, 2021, 08:17:54 PM »

When I did my twin I used white rustoleum.

I was not in a hurry so the dry time was no big deal. Nice white background when changing
oil and doing inspections.

It's been years and has held up fine.

Gary


3
Lister Based Generators / Re: what is this
« on: October 19, 2021, 12:32:35 AM »

I can't see the writing on the cap but it looks too large to be .22
Pretty sure its 22 uf

If it's  not blown up a meter will tell you.


4
Changfa Engines / Re: 165F engines back on Ebay
« on: September 22, 2021, 09:33:14 PM »

What, no feeler guage for the points setting?  ;D


5
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: September 19, 2021, 05:30:54 PM »
When I rebuilt my 25/2 .
It has bushings and not roller bearings.

I ended up with several gaskets on each side to set
end play. What I found was that as I tightened the
bearing holder the clearance would change.
I spent a few hours tightening , spinning the crank by
hand, tightening the bolts, spinning the crank....

I think it is because the housing is so large the geometry changes
as the bolts are tightened.

Just what I found....your results may be different.


Edit....
I'm not sure I explained this as well as I should have. I'll try again.

What I experienced was not just end play but I noticed the entire bearing housing
would shift enough while tightening the bolts that the bearing would bind the crank.
I had  enough gaskets on each side that my plan was to remove gaskets and "sneak up"
on the end play. As I got closer to the end play and began to tighten the housing bolts closer
to torque is when I began to notice the pattern on tightened bolts would determine bearing clearance.
And yes the crank is straight.

The fact that the bearing itself is some 3" or better in length must come into play.
 It covers a pretty good area of the crank
unlike the roller bearings that cover what 1" or so ?  So when tightening the housing bolts  the housing
would shift enough that the housing was not parallel with the crank so the bearing would bind.

These engines are a hobby for me and not a job. I hate to think of the hours of time I spent on setting the
crankshaft into that twin. Time wise it was probibly over several weekends of play time. A few hours at a
time.  I have built engines my entire life. Lawn mowers to race cars, boats, aircraft.......I thought I knew
something untill I discovered these monsters. They are a different animal. 

I'm sure I could do one now in a few hours but don't know if I would want to !

I hope I explained this so everyone could understand what I'm trying to say.

Enjoy !





6
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 18, 2021, 07:15:37 PM »

I can't argue with that.

Reminds me of when I was quite a bit younger I had an older friend who would say:

  "Only one thing cash won't cure !"




7
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 18, 2021, 12:10:58 AM »


Check the Sporlin website.

Build one. Look thru the txv charts and I bet you can figure it out.

My local counter man looked it up and had the parts list in about a min. Granted, he has
put a few of them together,  but it's not an everyday thing. It's just a few parts that get screwed
together.

Call a local ac supply house and see who builds them in your area. Most supply houses
know of each other and what they do. You may find someone locally that knows the numbers
right off

Or at least someone who can point you in the right direction.













8
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 17, 2021, 09:35:59 PM »

I wouldn't be afraid of the 1.5 valve.
Many of the units in the 12k to 16k btu range use the same txv.


9
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 17, 2021, 05:06:54 PM »

That is a bad design.  Never seen that before.



10
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 17, 2021, 04:41:58 PM »
I think you got a bad valve.


11
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 17, 2021, 05:41:46 AM »

I'm with Bob on this one.

Look carefully near the adjusting stem and see if it has a packing adjusrment.
I doubt it but it's worth a look.

It's been a while since I've looked at one.


Gary


12
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 13, 2021, 05:16:53 AM »

I think all the car condensers are aluminum.......and they run much lower pressures.

I would series the additional coil. If you put one behind the other, with the existing fan I
would pipe to the aft coil first then to the one next to the fan. In the top out the bottom, then
again in the top out the bottom.

I think I read, or perhaps you told me, your access valve was directly off the compressor.  Your
access valve should be after the condenser. I have read that there is a 10 to 15 psi difference
between those two spots.





13
Listeroid Engines / Ashwamegh cooling ..part 2
« on: September 12, 2021, 01:18:11 AM »

So back on this for a moment....

Radiator,  fan , pump and plumbing installed.
The wiring and plumbing are temporarily during testing.

I have not installed thermostat's at this point and am running the pump and fan while running.
On a 90 F day the water discharge from the heads are running about 180 F in shade with about
a 5 F rise in direct sunlight. This is with a 4K load......

I ordered a larger water pump as the "yard sale" pump I don't believe will move enough water when
the t-stats are installed. The pump now moves 1.3 gallons a min. vs the new pump will move 3.2 .
I will probibly machine the water exhaust manifold to hold a stat for each head.

I spent some time setting the rack adjusting the exhaust temps and managed to get them within 8 degrees
or so of each other. I'm happy with that.

Enjoy !




14
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 11, 2021, 01:06:12 AM »

Shoot Bruce, you know I don't know anything !

I think you are doing a fine job and am confident you will get it going.

Probably do better if I leave you alone  :laugh:


15
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 10, 2021, 10:12:37 PM »

 
Looking at your numbers again I don't think you are that far off.......but

At 80F your numbers look good as far as pressures and temps but the compressor amps
still look hi to me. We usually look for RLA to be 10% or better under that number.  I can't
stress this enough. You will loose some cooling but you said you were getting 13k out of it....
It's a 12k unit......I would look for 11k or so. ....I have always tried to be conservative on the numbers.
Reason being the rise in amps and pressures when the outside air temp goes up.


Your idea of using the evap coil on the condenser side might help. Lowering the condenser coil temp a few degrees will make a significant change in head pressure thus amp draw. Look at all the newer home ac
units. The coils are huge compared to older units. (Yes I know different  gas types, etc..) What I see is that
the higher the s.e.e.r is the larger the coil. Some of the super hi efficiency units have 2 layers of coil in the condenser. There must be something there.

The TXV sounds like the answer.....but be aware that it could be opening a can of worms so to speak.
You could end up going in circles and be no more ahead than you are now.


As always,  take this with a grain of salt..........















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