I recently added an Arduino to my lister.
It monitors the engine coolant temperature and RPM using an infrared sensor to a white dot on the flywheel.
The Arduino sends the data to a cloud application on my cell phone so I can monitor it when not in the garage.
(It will be running for up to 5 hours at time as a CHP system and I will not always be nearby).
My phone can communicate with the Arduino also, as of part of my phone application I added a kill button.

If the engine senses overspeed, (or If I hit the kill button on my phone for any reason), the Arduino energizes a solenoid which closes the fuel rack.
It also allows me to have the engine run for a set time and then have the arduino turn off.
In the picture below you can see the Solid State relay attached to the right side of the Arduino enclosure.
That relay energizes the shutdown solenoid.

You could just as easily have the relay activate the water injection pump when the coolant temperature reaches some desired set point.
You could also use this same logic to active a fuel switch-over valve after 'x' minutes of running or after the engine shows some heat.
In reverse, the arduino could switch the fuel back to diesel 'x' minutes before auto shutdown.
Whatever you want.  ... As long as you are having fun ! 

Also below is the 12vdc fuel switching valve that I will be using to switch from diesel to WVO (Currently my fuel switching is manual).
A second relay will be added to the Arduino to accomplish this.

Hi Oldsid,

Welcome. Looking forward to seeing some of your projects.
That's a lot of engines. !

Cheers,
Veggie

That's a really good price.
I have 2 of these engines on small generators.
Very reliable little units.

Just because an alternator is rated at 140A, does not mean it's spinning at the right speed to generate 140A.

Thanks, I am aware of that Mike90045.
It's a Leese Neville.
I have the factory performance curve showing speed vs. output vs. required HP.
Alternator speed and output are mapped to the engine speed and output.
It can make 120 amps if needed.

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Glort: "Resistive loads are the easiest, gentlest loads you can have.  Anything will drive them happily. It's inductive and switching loads that pose the challenges. "

That's good to know about the resistive loads. Thanks.
Flywheel diameter and alternator pulley have all been worked out back when the unit was built.

Seen LOTS of Poly, never seen it like in the picture or that colour.

That's the new "Silver Sludge" poly.  Came out in 2019 

I'm suggesting water, Oil, and WVO. And this engine does have a history of water leaks.

There are only 3 liquids in that engine. What else can it be.?

another interesting test....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGSDlsDejEs

farmerjohn,

I too am in Canada. I am quite interested to follow your progress on this project.
As you stated, the engine is a marvelously simple and reliable design.

carry on !

veggie

 FYI,
I think you can buy a block from Gary "dieselgman" on this forum. Send him a PM if you are interested.
He has engines and broken down components.
You may be able to buy the block and make everything else yourself.
(If that's a road you wish to take)

cheers,
veggie