1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Rajkot Dynamometer facility
« on: January 18, 2021, 08:20:05 PM »
When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a ListeroidIndians may not have much to work with, but they are resourceful.
Ha! Good one !
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Ha! Good one !
2
Changfa Engines / Re: Chagfa 175 CHP unit - First Test
« on: January 07, 2021, 03:06:43 PM »Thank gadget,
The pump is a 12 volt solar hot water unit. It is wired to a toggle switch at the starter button.
I will look at the data sheet and check the allowable orientations for the pump.
Ideally the pump and heat exchanger would be mount "off-skid". But this is for testing the concept.
3
Things I want to Buy / Re: WANTED: Changfa R175 (or other brand)
« on: January 07, 2021, 03:03:00 PM »Thanks 38ac
The freight and customs charges would make it difficult to justify.
4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: January 04, 2021, 09:03:12 PM »
gadget,
Sure, you can insulate the head.
Like this guy...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2ehdeEJOok
You can also run it slower and add a thermostat to keep the combustion temperatures high.
You can also load the engine up to 85% of the HP it creates at that lower speed, ensuring that it's adequately loaded and making as much heat as possible.
Good luck with the project, and be sure to post pictures/videos
veggie
Sure, you can insulate the head.
Like this guy...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2ehdeEJOok
You can also run it slower and add a thermostat to keep the combustion temperatures high.
You can also load the engine up to 85% of the HP it creates at that lower speed, ensuring that it's adequately loaded and making as much heat as possible.
Good luck with the project, and be sure to post pictures/videos
veggie
5
Changfa Engines / Chagfa 175 CHP unit - First Test
« on: January 04, 2021, 08:24:48 PM »
Here's the first test of the new Changfa R175 CHP unit.
Gave me something to do during lockdowns
Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
(This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.
The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas
Gave me something to do during lockdowns
Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
(This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.
The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas
6
Things I want to Buy / WANTED: Changfa R175 (or other brand)
« on: December 31, 2020, 05:18:47 PM »
Anyone in Canada have a Changfa style 175 for sale.
Used, broken, or new, does not matter.
Please PM me if so.
veggie
Used, broken, or new, does not matter.
Please PM me if so.
veggie
7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 31, 2020, 05:16:04 PM »
I may actually pick up a 16/2 down the road and use the 8/1 with the axial charger.
I would love an axial charger on the crankshaft of my 6/1.
If you find a good source that does not require a second mortgage to purchase, let me know.
Here's a fellow that built one for his Listeroid. Nice compact unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyJYdHzwsy4
8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 31, 2020, 05:11:05 PM »If you already have a Listeroid and need 600 watts for batteries or other electrical needs, consider loading it a bit more by also connecting your generator to a heating element in the hot water tank. Or in cooler months plug an electric space heater into it.
That may help get the operating temperatures up while helping your heating needs. CHP
9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 30, 2020, 06:55:52 PM »
Yes, I have also heard that the little Kubota Z482 twin diesels are more efficient than Listers.
The original post included "slow speed" running, which would also save considerable fuel use provided enough HP is created to power whatever charging system you plan to use.
Many users have run Lister(roids) at 350 rpm driving an automotive alternator at 30 amps (12 volt) for 8 hrs a day.
The original post included "slow speed" running, which would also save considerable fuel use provided enough HP is created to power whatever charging system you plan to use.
Many users have run Lister(roids) at 350 rpm driving an automotive alternator at 30 amps (12 volt) for 8 hrs a day.
10
Listeroid Engines / Listeroid Starter - Finally a good solution
« on: December 16, 2020, 06:56:46 PM »11
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Is a 1115 a 1115 regardless of who makes it
« on: December 13, 2020, 03:37:03 PM »38ac,
Thanks for sharing that. Good info.
So, there we have it. There are several 1115 variants.
12
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Is a 1115 a 1115 regardless of who makes it
« on: December 11, 2020, 10:09:33 PM »
I think what matters is whether it's an older style or a new generation Yanmar copy.
38AC and Randybee1, I could be wrong but your LaiDong is not a standard "Changfa" or "JiangDong" older style engine.
I believe all the original Changfa style 1115 engines took the same spares.
The LaiDong which you mention is a copy of the newer style Yanmar singles. Probably with an aluminum crankcase ....yes?
38AC and Randybee1, I could be wrong but your LaiDong is not a standard "Changfa" or "JiangDong" older style engine.
I believe all the original Changfa style 1115 engines took the same spares.
The LaiDong which you mention is a copy of the newer style Yanmar singles. Probably with an aluminum crankcase ....yes?
13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 10, 2020, 03:50:39 PM »A common way during the golden age of Lister CS industrial applications was to pack a lot of grease around the valve train.
The engine could be left for days or weeks without attention.
14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 06, 2020, 12:57:27 AM »
@Hugh
In your scenario where would the oil go after lubricating the valve assembly. (Assuming oil is continuously dripping onto the valve train)
cheers
In your scenario where would the oil go after lubricating the valve assembly. (Assuming oil is continuously dripping onto the valve train)
cheers
15
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 05, 2020, 08:10:07 PM »
For continuous running you will somehow have to deal with valve train lubrication.
Also, oil filtration may allow for longer oil change intervals.
Combine the solutions...
Consider this idea for continuous long runs with a 6/1 CS style.
It is something I am considering for my Listeroid.
-Replace the oil drain plug with a TEE fitting.
one port on the tee is for draining
one port on the tee is to connect a very small gear pump
-Draw oil from the sump with a small gear pump and pass it through an oil filter
From the filter you can branch to several locations in order to get the oil back to the sump.
1] The camshaft oiling plug near the decompression lever (this will solve any cam bearing lube issues)
2] If you want to include the valve as well, use a tube up to the valve assembly to trickle over the rockers and valves.
To drain the valve area you drill/tap a drain hole in the side of the cast iron ledge surrounding the valve chamber.
From there it can drain back to the camshaft lubrication plug by the decompression lever.
Obviously the flow must be very low, so a tiny gear pump is needed. (Or a larger gear pump with a bypass line taking the majority of the oil directly back to the sump while some oil goes to lubricate the valve system.
This is an old video but it does show a small gear pump running off my auxiliary crank pulley.
From the gear pump the oil passes through the filter and back into the sump. (I vented the crankcase elsewhere with a check valve).
Further modification to this system would be to TEE a connection before the oil goes back into the crankcase and divert some up to the valves.
Then have it drain into the camshaft lube port discussed above.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l562wUof59c
The vid is a bit lengthy but you can jump to the 0:30 second mark to see the lube system.
good luck with your project,
veggie
Also, oil filtration may allow for longer oil change intervals.
Combine the solutions...
Consider this idea for continuous long runs with a 6/1 CS style.
It is something I am considering for my Listeroid.
-Replace the oil drain plug with a TEE fitting.
one port on the tee is for draining
one port on the tee is to connect a very small gear pump
-Draw oil from the sump with a small gear pump and pass it through an oil filter
From the filter you can branch to several locations in order to get the oil back to the sump.
1] The camshaft oiling plug near the decompression lever (this will solve any cam bearing lube issues)
2] If you want to include the valve as well, use a tube up to the valve assembly to trickle over the rockers and valves.
To drain the valve area you drill/tap a drain hole in the side of the cast iron ledge surrounding the valve chamber.
From there it can drain back to the camshaft lubrication plug by the decompression lever.
Obviously the flow must be very low, so a tiny gear pump is needed. (Or a larger gear pump with a bypass line taking the majority of the oil directly back to the sump while some oil goes to lubricate the valve system.
This is an old video but it does show a small gear pump running off my auxiliary crank pulley.
From the gear pump the oil passes through the filter and back into the sump. (I vented the crankcase elsewhere with a check valve).
Further modification to this system would be to TEE a connection before the oil goes back into the crankcase and divert some up to the valves.
Then have it drain into the camshaft lube port discussed above.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l562wUof59c
The vid is a bit lengthy but you can jump to the 0:30 second mark to see the lube system.
good luck with your project,
veggie