20Kwh, 8 hours, 300L??  Yep, nothing has changed.  Still energy intensive, slow and expensive.
Spose as long as we are happy with what we prefer, that's all that matters.

Hey Glort,
I suppose if you consider $0.0053 per liter expensive then you would be correct.
($1.60 per 300 liters)

You tried various methods and prefer settling. I tried various methods and settled on Spinning.
Everyone has their own set of circumstances and constraints. Mine are very limited space and limited batch sizes.
As long as it works, it really does not matter what system a person uses.

cheers mate 

I thought the knowledge of water separation was generally understood after all of us "pioneers" tried multiple solutions, sometimes with very messy results.
Like when a hose broke on one of my VO cleaning experiments (pump still running of course) while I was away from the garage for 20 minutes. VO covered the whole floor.
Lesson learned.... no more barbed fitting with hose clamps on the pressure side of a system ! Threaded connection only.
We all have our stories as we earned our right of passage. 
I digress...
With the advent of the high "G" centrifuges and heat applied to the oil on the way into the centrifuge, water is pretty much eliminated and the output from the machine is clean dry oil.
Steam exiting the vent of the centrifuge is the exit point for water. And multiple passes through the centrifuge make it even better.
If you have the space for multiple vessels, settling is super simple and effective too, but takes way to long for me and I don't have the space to keep multiple 200 liter drums or 1000 liter IBC totes in my yard.
Small batches through a heated centrifuge is fast and clean.

OH MAN !

Ed, I'm green with envy

Somehow members here keep coming up with these "barn finds" for very little cash.
Here in Canada I have never heard of a barn find lister CS.
I suspect there's only 3 working genuine Lister CS units in the whole country.
It would be nice to run across a deal like that.

Rebuild her well and keep the CS legacy going. 

Thanks Bronco, Good suggestions.
The unit heater actually has a 3 speed fan. It would not be difficult to switch speeds based on fluid temperature.
There is one power wire for each of the 3 speeds. Whichever wire has power produces a different speed.

I will also check into the bypass valves. I was already considering one for the H20 solar panel heat dump loop.

Yes. Maybe I can push the temp up a little and gain some more energy storage.
I do have a 3 gallon expansion tank kicking around.
Once the evacuated tubes are on-line I can push even more heat into the system.

I have calculated that my 50 gallon solar storage tank can supply my garage with 12 hrs of heat between 160 Degf and 50 Degf if I heat it to the upper value and then draw 3500 btu/hr in the form of a fan/radiator until the lower value is reached. To help heat my garage space.

I can charge the tank to 160f by running the Listeroid for 4 hrs and transfering the coolant heat and electrical heat (via an electric heating element) to the tank fluid.

I have a fan/coil capable of 18500 btu's output which can be piped to the tank and be energized to blow heat into the space when the tank liquid reaches 160f.

Problem:
When the fan/coil is energized it will exchange far more heat (Btu's) when the water temperature is at 160f than it will when the water temp falls to, say 65f.
So I will get most of my heat transfer taking place in the first few hours of the cycle and little transfer later in the cycle becasue of the lower differential temps across the radiator as the water loses heat.
If I can pull a constant 3500 btu's from the tank, it should last 11 - 12 hours through the night.

What do you guys think of this solution....

Cycle the Fan/Coil based on tank temperature so excess heat is not expelled at the start of the cycle.
Basically cycling the fan (and circ pump) to control the release of heat over time.

As and example...
(Just for illustration, I have not calculated these values yet.)

======= FAN/COIL CYCLING==========
Tank Temp    Cycle time (ON-OFF) Minutes
==================================
160             5 - 10 Short heating cycle
150             6 - 10
140             7 - 10
130             8 - 10
120             9 - 10
110             10 - 9
100             11 - 8
90              12 - 7
80              13 - 6
70              14 - 5
60              15 - 3
50              16 - 0 Long heating cycle

Does this approach make sense?
A simple Arduino program with a motor relay could run the heater fan and circ pump.

Some of you guys that are more familiar with heating and cooling systems may have an opinion as to whether I'm on the right track.?
I would use this as an initial system to prove the garage CHP model.
Later I could make the controls more intelligent by having the microcontroller measure the change in tank temperature over time (BTU's used and BTU's remaining) and dynamically adjust the fan cycle time to budget the heat over a 12 hour period.

And is an tank target temperature of 160f realistic? or should I take it higher and store more heat?

cheers,
veggie

I'm currently finalizing the tubing from the engine to the oil pump and onward to the oil filter.
I will post some pictures of the crank ventilation and filtration system after I'm done.

The original oil change intervals set for Lister CS engines were determined back in the 1940's era.
Oils of that vintage may not have been of the same quality and molecular blend as today's oils.
So I'm wondering if we can extend the recommended interval from 250 hrs to something longer?

Reasoning:
1] Most of the newer listeroid variants have roller bearings instead of sleeve bearings on the crank.
This reduces frictional shear at the bearings and makes for a cooler running bearing. Less demand on the oil.

2] Low temperature requirements. The sump is far from the cylinder head & cylinder and the oil is not circulated up to the head where it can gain heat so the whole oil system runs at a fairly low temperature of something like 130f.
Heat breakdown is probably not existent.

3] Today's good quality oils have superior molecular chains and bonds with great fluid film strength properties and oxidation resistance.

I realize that many users simply buy the cheapest basic oil they can find and then change every 250 hrs or less.
That's fine too. But what are your thoughts on longer duration intervals?
I am in the process of adding a small 12 volt gear pump and an inline automotive filter to my Roid again.
The pump will be on a timer relay which runs the filter system on a 50% duty cycle of 10 minutes on...10 minutes off when ever the engine is running.
So the oil should be kept fairly clean.
I was thinking of extending the oil change interval to 500 hrs.

Anyone experimented with longer oil change intervals ?

Without question it's easier on the starter to decompress. But not necessary on some engines. Very necessary on others

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XV0swraaikg
Depends on the engine.

Cranking of the engine at 6:15 minute mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phjoeEld8ac

A big 195 start without decompression. My 195 was able to easily do this also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVJelEpPtoE