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Messages - AdeV

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 35
1
Everything else / Re: Blasphemy..... Solar power.
« on: July 03, 2020, 05:13:16 PM »
Safety Zealots please note approved safety harness and full PPE ( May be hard to make out in pic but trust  and spare me, it's there. Really!)

Those "Tree Camo" hard-hats really blend in well, don't they?  ;D ;D

Nice work, though, that's a really classy looking setup.

2
Generators / Re: SR3 Bryce VR99 injectors
« on: July 03, 2020, 05:03:18 PM »
Hi Barry,

Instructions on how to join Coppermine (including the all-important global password) are pinned at the top of the Member's Only forum. If you're still stuck, send me a private message and I'll sort it out for you.

You should also be able to post images direct to messages - click on "Attachments and other options" below the box where you type,  then click "Choose File" in the Attach section. If you need more, click on "(more attachments)" underneath to add another box, up to 6 per post. Note that some people do have technical difficulties attaching images directly - I have no idea why, it seems to be some combination of browser + the forum software + a bad hair day...

If you do choose to attach direct, it would be much appreciated if you could please reduce the size of digital photos before posting; most of them are 3000+ pixels wide these days, and they just end up HUGE on the screen. If you're a Windows user, there's a free piece of software called Faststone Image Resizer which does a fantastic job of batch shrinking photos. I'd suggest a laptop-friendly resolution of 800x600, or maybe 1024x768. Minor variations due to the aspect ratio of your photos are quite acceptable.

HTH!

Ade.

PS: Sorry, can't answer your copper washer question....!

3
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: New waste oil Burner.
« on: July 02, 2020, 03:00:54 PM »
Hi Glort and all,

I've been discussing winter heating with my co-renters here at my workshop (= medium sized warehouse, about 300sq/m give or take, that's 3200sq/ft ish in USA money).... we have many gallons of waste engine oil (and some waste veg oil), and I'm pretty sure I can get a near unlimited supply of WVO from the many local garages around the area. So my thinking is, a nice big oil burner chucking out megawatts (ok, ok, kilowatts...) of heat, which we can use to at least take the frost off the roof in winter...

I've read this thread a couple of times, and I just wanted to make absolutely sure: There's nothing inside that elbow, except for the end of the fuel delivery line, is that right? No cup or plate or dish or bowl or other contrivance to hold the fire in? Literally just weld the elbow together, drill some air holes in the right place, stick a fuel line in through one of them; light it off and walk away (essentially)?

Apologies if I missed something obvious....

Does the air hole placement/pattern matter much? What about the size/number of holes in relation to the burner size? I presume there's a sweet spot, is it hard to find? 

How often does it need cleaning (i.e. after how many hours approx)? I realise there's probably a pile of variables which will affect that, but just a ballpark will be fine. Like, do I need to attend it daily or will weekly do?

What happens to Spencer's Ash? Does it not abrade the flue?  ;D ;D ;D :angel: [newer members may not get that reference...]

Thanks!

PS: This design looks a LOT easier than my plan of taking an old propane cylinder, cutting a door and a flue, and running a drip-fed bowl burner inside.

4
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« on: June 30, 2020, 07:48:51 PM »
The rotary knobs are the compression changeover valves. Screw clockwise until they seat to put the engine in high compression (for starting). Once the engine's running, they can be spun out until they stop, now the engine is in low compression. This is the preferred operating mode.

The buttons on the other side are the decompressors, one per cylinder. Their purpose is to hold the exhaust valve open (pulled out), to give you a chance of spinning the engine, by hand, sufficiently fast to start it. The tricky part, in your situation, is going to be reaching around the front wheel to hit the decompressor, preferably without getting tangled in the starting handle and before you lose too much momentum!  My old JP4 had a long rod on it, which ran past all the decompressors to the front; having worked up a sweat turning the engine, you could engage all the decompression buttons at once.... at which point, you just had to hope it fired on the first cylinder, or you were screwed!

So, the starting procedure would be: Pull both decompression buttons out. Turn the compression changeover knobs to high compression. Ensure fuel is switched on. Crank on the starting handle as hard as you can.... get a friend to push one of the decompressor buttons in. Keep cranking! When it fires and starts to run by itself, push the other decompressor in. It should pick up and run on both cyls. Once it's been running for a few seconds, unscrew one of the decompression knobs until it stops huffing and runs on two cyls again. Repeat with the other one. Job's a good 'un!  Make sure you video it and post on youtube.... a) People love to see/hear old Listers run. b) Comedy gold potential :D

5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« on: June 29, 2020, 02:55:42 PM »
It'll be a JP2 engine - each JP cylinder is rated at 9hp @ 1000rpm (so 9-1, 18-2, 27-3 and 36-4). The easiest way to confirm is if it's got enclosed pushrods. The CS engines have them exposed. Also, with few exceptions, the CS engines have 2 flywheels, the JP engines mostly have one flywheel. Also IIRC the JPs (possibly excepting the JP1) have a rotary injection pump, whereas the CS engines have a cam-operated pump.

A serial no. of 72105 actually puts it at the back end of 1949, the first 1950 engine was  no. 73328.

PS: it's 38/4 not 36/4. Not sure where they found the extra 2hp from...

6
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: New waste oil Burner.
« on: June 11, 2020, 09:23:23 AM »
Seems to me diesel fuel injectors could be used to provide a high pressure spray for a relatively moderate power input. Snag one from an old diesel car from a local scrapyard, drive it with an electric motor instead of the engine, and arrange the injectors/pipes to taste in your burner module. Sure, it'd pulse, unless you spun the pump fast enough that the oil from the previous injector was only just finishing its burn before the next injection.

7
General Discussion / Re: lister sr 1
« on: June 08, 2020, 11:46:17 PM »
There's obviously vertical movement somewhere which is only apparent when the engine is running. I'd say there are three places it could be:
- Big end bearings (but you've done them already)
- Little end bearings (seems unlikely you'd get 0.040" play and not be able to detect it by rocking the engine back and forth)
- Crank bearings - allowing the entire crankshaft/rod/piston assembly to move up & down. This would be harder to find due to the weight of everything, but should be fairly obvious, if you try to lift the engine up by the end of the crankshaft (if it's available, I don't know much about the SR engine). I'd also expect the engine to be jumping around all over the place, if it had that much vertical play...

It has to be movement between the physical components; if (for example) the rod were too long, it'd hit when you turned it by hand. Same with an over-tall piston, or an excessive stroke on the crankshaft.

8
Engines / Re: Inherited Lister engine, advice and id help please
« on: May 28, 2020, 02:46:07 PM »
Hmph. I totally forgot about the fuel rack!

9
Engines / Re: Inherited Lister engine, advice and id help please
« on: May 27, 2020, 01:15:30 PM »
1st step - With the injector line disconnected, crank the engine around. You should see fuel spurting from the end of the injector line. If not - there's either air in them, or you need to look at the injection pump. If you see a decent gob of fuel every firing stroke, move on to step 2.

Step 2: With the injector removed from the engine, re-connect it to the fuel lines. Crank engine over (keep your hands well away from the injection end - if it's working, it can actually inject diesel fuel through skin - nasty!). You should see a nice fine mist of fuel. If you see fuel but it's not well atomised, your injectors need servicing/replacing. If no fuel comes out, then either the injector is jammed, or the pump is too weak.

If your pump isn't pumping, it may be seized, or it may be worn. I don't know if you can easily see the IP (Injection Pump) operating on the LD engines, I suspect not... so you may need to pull it to have a look. If it's seized, then the pump won't be returning when the cam has passed the follower. If it's worn, then the follower will be down, but the fuel is going down the sides of the piston instead of up the pipe. Pumps can be repaired, but they're extremely fine tolerance devices, so it might be easier/cheaper to get a 2nd hand one.

10
Looking at the state of that bolt/follower - I'd say something let go in that gearbox under full power/rpms. I suspect there's a lot more damage in there to find...

11
It looks like a cam follower of some kind.

Could I ask you to make be do a bit of post-processing on that pic? Best thing would be to snip off the edges so just the bolt is there, then re-size down to something managable - 800x600 is best, 1024x768 is also OK. The 4000x3000ish size makes it unviewable (in one lump) on most screens, and especially on my tiddly laptop screen that I'm on just now.

If you're a Linux user, GIMP is the program you need to do the job. For Windows users, you can use plain old Paint to trim the image, then I recommend the Faststone Image Resizer (which is FREE - a quick google should find the download page) to resize the result (you can also use it to resize and rename a series of photos, add watermarks etc. Really good piece of software, and free to boot.

Cheers!

12
Please contact the seller directly if you're interested in purchasing; I'd appreciate it if the seller could let us know when the units are sold, or updates as to stock levels.

Other replies, especially those which appear to be prodding the hornets nest, will be deleted - and if I'd not been a bit indisposed this week, they'd have been removed a damn site quicker.

Thanks all.

13
What have I said about bad behaviour?

No more. End of.

Executive summary: The OP no longer has any engines for sale. This topic is now locked.

14
If it really will run on crude oil, I believe the big oil co's can't give it away at the moment!

15
General Discussion / Re: Intermittent starting Lister d
« on: April 27, 2020, 11:23:46 AM »
Sounds like the carb is in need of cleaning/adjustment.

Bear in mind that my knowledge of carburettors could fit into a box of matches, without taking the matches out first.... so caveat emptor!

So... if it won't run with any throttle, I'd guess that the main jet is blocked. It'll start and just about run on the idle jet, but as soon as you feed it more air, it's not getting enough fuel, so it dies.

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