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Messages - AdeV

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1
Apologies, have only just found this thread as the result of Chris' post...

I would suspect a burnt out wire in the starter windings of the alternator. If everything else is OK, but it's turning over weakly, that's the only thing I can think of that would cause the issue. It's what caused my SOM to be taken out of service before I bought it; although someone subsequently dropped it on its nose bending the output shaft...

2
General Discussion / Re: one of the early members has gone to the lord
« on: January 17, 2022, 07:23:41 AM »
Sad news indeed, thank you for letting us know Bob.

Quinn posted many many pearls of wisdom over the 12 years he was active here, and whilst we hadn't seen him for a while, his unexpected passing is still a blow.

RIP Quinn.

3
General Discussion / Re: Any Lister engine experts in Nottingham?
« on: August 17, 2021, 08:38:13 PM »
Neither the oil or the air filter have been done at present, the local chandlers didn't have the right ones in, but he's going to call in each marina on his way to see if they have. TBH when I looked at the air filter I've never seen on as bad as the current one is, I can't imagine how many years it's been in there.

Glad you got going again! Just out of interest, is this his boat, or a rented one? If it's his, I'm guessing he's not long bought it & will be looking forward to doing a full service? I suspect if the filters were all plugged, the engine oil is well overdue a change too!

4
General Discussion / Re: Any Lister engine experts in Nottingham?
« on: August 13, 2021, 07:09:32 PM »
I'm no expert - but I'm pretty sure you should be able to get diesel out of the bleed on the filter while it's running. That you don't, suggests that there's a problem with the lift pump. The lift pump has to be running as long as the engine is, assuming the tank is below the injector pump.

Is it an electric lift pump, or is it mechanically actuated? If the former, I'd suspect either the wiring/switch, or maybe the motor itself. If it's mechanical, then suspect any linkage, or maybe it's broken internally.  That you can manually lift fuel does at least give you options; worst case scenario, rig a gravity tank above the lift pump, and fill that manually, then let the engine run from it.

5
General Discussion / Re: listerengine.com forum
« on: July 31, 2021, 09:08:21 AM »
Hey, no problem guys! Fortunately, the hosting plan we're on will not expire even if the domain name glitches... However, it does occur to me that if the worst happens and I'm incapacitated or worse, that would threaten the existence of the forum: So, I'll work with Bob on that to make sure he (as the owner) has full access & sufficient instructions that he can either move it himself, or get a techie to do it for him, should I shuffle off this mortal coil before my scheduled time - and since I plan to live forever, that should be a good few years away yet  ;D

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That lorry isn't going to fit on that trailer!

7
Engines / Re: Engine identification
« on: May 25, 2021, 07:45:33 AM »
With yours being a comparatively recent engine, in Lister terms, you might be able to get the actual build no. from ListerPetter themselves, they should have records of that engine still.

You might want to hide your wallet if you ask them about spare parts prices, I've heard that they're - shall we say, on the high side of OMFG!

https://www.listerpetter.com/spare-parts/

8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ran the beast today !
« on: May 10, 2021, 06:32:28 AM »
I used a cheap central heating pump on my rig, the 240v generator powered it...

9
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: April 30, 2021, 07:35:10 AM »
An intermittent spark could indicate the magneto is on its way out. I've never worked on a magneto, so I can't help you much there, but if you google "magneto rebuild", there should be plenty of assistance that way. Another thing to check is the HT lead between the magneto and the plug, is that good? If it's original, there's every chance it's wrecked internally (if not externally) and could be contributing.

I'll assume that your carburettor is OK, based on the fact you've cleaned it up, although depending on how deep you've gone into it, you might need to give it a full rebuild.

Other things to consider - what's the compression like? If the rings are stuck, or the valve seats aren't good, you might be getting marginal compression, which won't help starting a cold engine. Valve seats you can inspect by removing the head & simply pushing open each valve. Any pitting on the seats will require grinding out.

In the brief run you did get out of it, how did it seem? Was it a bit huffy, or weak seeming (both would point to compression)? Was the exhaust clean, or was there evidence of grey/black smoke (over fuelling)? Did it get murder hot (running lean)? Was it responsive to throttle changes (iffy carb if not)? Was it misfiring sometimes (magneto, lead or plug)? Something else to consider, if your spark plug is not of the correct heat range, you might be having problems with it. Did you pull it out after the one successful run & get a look at it? Assuming it's not since been washed clean by unburnt fuel, it may still tell you something about how the engine ran that last time - e.g. did it get fouled, or burnt up, etc.

FWIW, my experience of petrol stationary engines is limited to one extremely temperamental Villiers engine, which I loathe, but which one of these days I really ought to fix...

10
ISTM that interest in these old engine has dropped off here in the UK too. Show-ready engines are still selling for big money on eBay, but anything that looks like it needs work, seems to be getting sod all... which, given the shortage of shows last year + the fact many people were on government-mandated leave (furlough), seems to be a bit arse about face.... For sure, if I'd been furloughed, I'd have been doing all kinds of metalworking projects!

11
But, if you wanted water that was just "hot" in terms of, say, pre-heating a HWC or the like - then you're only playing with something like 55 degrees C.  And, if you kept the "cooling" water flowing so that there wasn't static water "sitting" and overheating - then the plumbing to heat water to that extent could be much much cruder - something that is the tech equivqalent of some i/2" copper pipe wound around some alloy tubing and slathered with high-temp silicone . . .

Totally agree - the reason I did machining was because I had a machine ;D If you're only looking for ~50C or  so, and you're not in a big hurry, you can easily extract that from the cooling circuit, I had a surplus (insulated) indirect hot water tank I used for that purpose. IIRC, it took about 40-60 minutes with the engine loaded, to reach 50 degrees in my tank. This was only an experimental setup, I'd need to add diverters and a radiator to start shedding unwanted heat, something I never got around to.

The other reason I used a microbore pipe (rather than just a water jacket heat exchanger, for example) was speed: You get a small amount of very hot water very quickly The downside is you have to keep pumping cold water in, or risk pressurising any system in very short order. However, time and other constraints curtailed experiments, and I've never quite got back around to it.

12
Other Fuels / Re: Uk heating oul
« on: February 26, 2021, 01:35:50 PM »
Don't use it neat - it doesn't have any lubricity, so it'll cause massive wear in your injector pump in short order. However, mixed with diesel (not sure of the proportions, but I'd have thought 50:50 should be plenty), it will work fine.

I'm not sure if diesel & heating oil are properly miscible, so it may be that they separate into layers over time (an experiment in a jam-jar will prove the concept; if you get distinct layers forming, they're not miscible). In that case, it'll still work, but you'd want to mix small batches of fuel at a time, rather than just treating a whole barrel. In that case, it may also be worth setting up a valve so you can switch to diesel for startup/shutdown.

13
Generators / Re: 240 vs 220
« on: February 25, 2021, 10:12:39 AM »
Chances are, it won't mind. Mains powered appliances, in this day and age, are pretty forgiving of the input voltage - and even frequency - given the massive worldwide differences in voltages. The real giveaway will be the specification plate, if it has one; this should give a voltage range: 208-240 is apparently "standard" in the US, given the differences in how you get to your 200+ volt outlets. Technology Connections made a good video on how the US mains system works, and why some outlets are 208v and not 240v (or 220v).

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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: New Listeroids for sale
« on: February 16, 2021, 07:35:54 AM »
OK, I'm fed up with this thread. It's generated more heat than any other in recent times. The OP hasn't been here for 18 months, possibly because of all the shit he caught when - by all accounts - he was doing his best to improve the output of the Indian lister clone factories (or one of them, at least).

Since it appears it's unable to die of natural causes, I hereby pronounce it dead.

If anyone has any problems with this, please PM me in the first instance.

15
I started playing with an idea for my Lister 6-1 engine. I have some thick-wall aluminium tube of about exhaust size (no idea where it came from!), into which I cut an 10mm round groove using a form tool on the lathe. I wrapped some microbore copper pipe (the sort we use in the UK for central heating systems) into the groove. Filled it with water & fired up the engine. With a load on the engine, the water in the microbore pipe boiled in about 2-3 minutes IIRC. At the time, I didn't have any cladding over the pipe, so it was 50% exposed to air; nor did I have any thermal compound between the pipe and the aluminium tube to improve contact surface area; so I've no doubt the system could be hugely improved with very little extra effort.

I haven't gone any further with that experiment, but I've no doubt I could get a good supply of hot water from it; and it gets hot MUCH faster than the engine block. In fact, I'd be tempted to circulate the hot water through the block initially, until that gets up to temperature, before extracting the heat for personal use...

I'll take a couple of photos of the lash up later, if anyone's interested.

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