Boy Doug, thats all I need is another TV show like Breaking Bad about some Listeroid powered meth lab cooking up cigs .

Holy crap.
Just realized this thread is taking on a life of it's own.
Maybe it should be moved to General Discussion eh, Andy ?

Warfarin

also known under the brand names Coumadin, Jantoven, Marevan, and Waran
 is an anticoagulant.

Better known as rat poison.
Basically the stuff makes the intended target bleed internally to death .
A most unpleasant way to expire.


.

Potter you must return the flywheels to their original config.
In David Edgington's book 'The Lister CS Story'  quote on page 38 " Unravelling the flywheel conundrum- Working with the help of David Harris I have assembled a comprehensive list but there will almost certainly be variations of some of those listed here.
It is interesting, with this range of engines, how several specific flywheels were fitted singly, meaning the starting handle side was different from the opposite side, while others were matched pairs "

He also goes on ( David Edgington ) to state that the flywheels were balanced on the kidney flywheels using a special dummy weight with extra balancing holes drilled in the inner rim face.
"From 1972 on, it involved drilling 3/4inch holes to a max depth of 2inches to a max of 5 holes with a max run-out of .005" on diameter or sides of the rim.
The spherical hole was usually positioned at the opposite side to the key-way at B.D.C. and provided the best compromise between reciprocating and rotating forces."

So in other words leave things the way they were.
If I were you I would get a copy of David Edgington's book as there is much more info on this topic with part numbers, dimensions and such for the price it is well worth it.
Quinnf has also stated the above in his beta test engine that he describes in detail on George B.'s  site utterpower and I think somewhere else on  listerengine.com involving balancing also, read it.
It is better to put the engine right and redo everything all over again, especially if this is an original CS, or you can kiss your engine goodbye.
.

Ah Bob I guess I have lived.
Done 3 of 'em , 1 1987 Ford Cargo 6000, 1 1986 Ford Cargo 6000 and my fav, a 1989 Ford F800 with Hy- Power Booster system.
All with Lucas Girling rears and Dayton disks in the fronts.
The 1989 Ford I replaced the entire system from booster, disks , calipers, drums and backing plates complete with wheel cyls , shoes and associated hardware to the brake lines and hoses.
Guess what ?
The damn rear wheel cyls. started leaking, on both sides, 6 months later !!!
The MTO ( our version of truck inspectors ) really love pulling me over and seeing that tell tale puddle of brake fluid in the rim groove.
Never had the Dayton calipers leak, always the rears.
But I always found the master cyl. to be a nice fix on the cab over Fords. The boosters were really just a front air brake chamber pretending to be a booster, an easy  and cheap fix.
I found a little trick that keeps 'em from leaking.
Use British Castrol or Lucas brake fluid as used by the little Brit sports cars (Mgb, Spits, etc. )
Seems our North American fluid eats the brit rubber on the rears.

Give me air systems any time of the year.
Sorry for rant, continue on 

Yea, more people killed in the lower 48 by black bears than almost anything else, partly cause there are so many, partly cause people thing they are "cute" & "cuddly" so the fools try to get close to them & get eaten. it used to be this sort of thing kept the shallow end of the gene pool pretty empty, see what "progress" brings? LOL.


 SR.

Well, I watched Discovery Chanel's show " Feeding Frenzy " about the bears and some African lions.
Some guys plopped themselves in a very strong Lexan cube and placed some yummy treats outside to film what happens, sort of like the land version of a shark cage.
They later placed some human dummies outside the cube with them in it and filmed that too.
They wanted to see if harsh language would dissuade the bears from eating their "dummy" chained down friends.
No dice, the bears grabbed said dummy and took it into the bush and ripped it apart until they realized that plastic was not very tasty.
It was interesting to see how they fed though.
They like to pounce up and down on their food to crack the ribcage and  can they run fast from a standing start.
So it seems playing possum would not be a good idea.
From what I gathered most "tourists" or joggers usually stumbled upon a mother bear and her cubs and they got caught in between.
And the others, well hunger would place us on the menu.
Quite eye opening for a city slicker like me in Southern Ontario.

I'd definatly want a 12 guage and as backup perhaps a loyal dog that could buy me some time/warning if I'd be venturing anywhere in the back country.

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Torsten, I assume you mean that the hole is inside the crankcase, where it meets the bottom of the water jacket ?

First see if the motor can run and then make a decision.


If you can see the hole perhaps you might be able to get a hand drill inside and enlarge the hole slightly to tap it for a threaded plug, taking your time and being extremely careful not to drill too deep and use a suitable tap maybe with an extention if needed.
Then some threading sealant could be used such as an eqivalent to " Locktite " brand and the hole peened over the plug provided there is enough meat to do so.

If this can be done you probably will have to strip down the entire engine to a bare block without the crank to get enough room to do your stuff.

Check  carefully to see if there are also any cracks around said hole, if there are you may have to rethink the above.


There might also be another option of "Macgyvering" the hole by fashioning a rubber plug with a hole drilled through it and a bolt and nut with washers on both sides. By welding the nut to the washer on one side you could slowly tighten the bolt until the rubber is compressed in the middle effectively sealing the hole. You still might have to make the hole as round as possible though.
This method is sometimes used here in North America to fix car engine blocks whose freeze plugs have popped out and are impossible to put back in with the engine still in the car when there is limited space.
You would also have to make sure that the rubber you use does not break down from oil on one side and coolant on the other.

And for something  really out there you could fashion a hardwood plug and treat it with some water repellant goop and slam it in there, lots of possiblities, but of course welding would be nice and permanent but it may prove very difficult to do.

Welding could do more harm than good if it is in the wrong area of the block.
Good luck.