1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Rajkot Dynamometer facility
« on: January 17, 2021, 01:28:09 AM »
unbelievable.
Home of the Listeroid - Since 2005
News:
Don't forget to check out the LEF Gallery! Exclusively for LEF members, an ideal alternative to Photobucket, Flickr, etc. It's FREE, and best of all totally AD FREE! Just click the link!
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
unbelievable.
2
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Mystery engine?
« on: January 15, 2021, 11:30:49 PM »
The EA300 engines are very good, I like them. If you can put parts away than that will be the way to go. Still have a bunch of air and oil filter strainers for them.
3
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Mystery engine?
« on: January 15, 2021, 04:00:54 AM »
Just did a search and here is the exact engine. Was electric and hand start. Wish we can get them.
http://www.delux.com.cn/en/view.asp?proid=25
http://www.delux.com.cn/en/view.asp?proid=25
4
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Mystery engine?
« on: January 15, 2021, 03:40:58 AM »
I helped pick one up with a friend that was almost the same. He bought it near Wilton, Connecticut about 28 years ago. The Name on the engine was Iron Ox. The engine was built. Honestly, I think it put most single cylinder water cooled engines to shame. Including Changfa. My friend sold the thing before I moved to North Carolina. I should of bought it. They were some of China’s premium engines that were imported briefly in Connecticut. Everything about them looked over built. I tried finding another one about 11 years ago and had no luck. I think my friend paid about $300.00 at the time. It came with a rebuild kit. The thing was heavy. It was direct injected.
Great engine, but parts are going to be hard to find.
Great engine, but parts are going to be hard to find.
5
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: January 04, 2021, 07:23:56 AM »
Manufacturers invested lots in R&D. Most have recommended running RPM’s. And loading. It’s best to stay within the manufacturer’s recommended parameters. If you can stay within recommended parameters than engine life should be within the manufacturer’s claims.
Another issue that has been discussed on microcogen and I think I brought it up on this fourm a while back is Critical Speed. An engine can generate harmonics that can damage itself at certain RPM’s.
Lightly loading any diesel is a bad idea. If your going to run only 300 to 500 watts, consider getting a Honda GX120 engine. Honda recommended operating speed for this particular engine is 2000-3600 RPM. It puts out just under 2hp at 2000. They are very efficient and last long. Buy a Meccatle S15W-45 generator head with the two bearing kit and you can have a nice compact efficient gas generator. And you won’t have the headaches running a diesel severely under loaded.
If you want to make a some hot water fabricate a heat exchanger.
Personally, I would purchase a small inverter generator that is rated to 1000 watts. I have a Yamaha EF1000iS and it’s seen hell. Fell off the back to the pickup, Used for weeks running a Sawzall, right angle drill, small skill saw, 4 blowers and halogen lighting. There were days it has ran over 10 hours on .66 gallons of gas. Been over 5 years and has hundreds of hours on and still does not use any oil. It’s one of the quietest ones out there. Noise Level 1/4 Load, 47 dBA / Full Load, 57dBA. The engine is only 50cc. During fall, winter and early spring it’s all I need for my RV. One of the best investments I’ve made for a generator. Maintenance, oil changes, air filter and spark arrester screen. That’s it.
Another issue that has been discussed on microcogen and I think I brought it up on this fourm a while back is Critical Speed. An engine can generate harmonics that can damage itself at certain RPM’s.
Lightly loading any diesel is a bad idea. If your going to run only 300 to 500 watts, consider getting a Honda GX120 engine. Honda recommended operating speed for this particular engine is 2000-3600 RPM. It puts out just under 2hp at 2000. They are very efficient and last long. Buy a Meccatle S15W-45 generator head with the two bearing kit and you can have a nice compact efficient gas generator. And you won’t have the headaches running a diesel severely under loaded.
If you want to make a some hot water fabricate a heat exchanger.
Personally, I would purchase a small inverter generator that is rated to 1000 watts. I have a Yamaha EF1000iS and it’s seen hell. Fell off the back to the pickup, Used for weeks running a Sawzall, right angle drill, small skill saw, 4 blowers and halogen lighting. There were days it has ran over 10 hours on .66 gallons of gas. Been over 5 years and has hundreds of hours on and still does not use any oil. It’s one of the quietest ones out there. Noise Level 1/4 Load, 47 dBA / Full Load, 57dBA. The engine is only 50cc. During fall, winter and early spring it’s all I need for my RV. One of the best investments I’ve made for a generator. Maintenance, oil changes, air filter and spark arrester screen. That’s it.
6
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: January 04, 2021, 05:13:47 AM »I believe they are IDI. Im not sure if they make them in DI. I know the S-195’s were made both ways.
I think the S-165 will be the best you can find for your application.
Confirm, you mean the r165 Changfa correct?
If I ran it at lower RPMs, I would likely need a custom long runner intake and more flywheel mass, should not be a problem
Yes, the R-165. You won’t need a long intake runner. Naturally aspirated diesels pull very little vacuum, especially at lower RPM’s.
Your not building a 170 Hyper-Pak. If you are, then long intake runners for sure.
7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: January 03, 2021, 04:13:27 PM »
Here is some info: I’ve saved more through the years, I just have to find it.
https://service.multiquip.com/pdfs/Diesel_Engine_Wet_Stacking_Prevention.pdf
https://res.mdpi.com/d_attachment/eng/eng-01-00009/article_deploy/eng-01-00009.pdf
https://www.workspace-technology.com/effects-of-diesel-generator-light-load-running/
The Impact of Generator Set Underloading (Open attachment below)
https://service.multiquip.com/pdfs/Diesel_Engine_Wet_Stacking_Prevention.pdf
https://res.mdpi.com/d_attachment/eng/eng-01-00009/article_deploy/eng-01-00009.pdf
https://www.workspace-technology.com/effects-of-diesel-generator-light-load-running/
The Impact of Generator Set Underloading (Open attachment below)
8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 31, 2020, 01:18:26 AM »
An axial charger would be a nice project.
9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 31, 2020, 01:15:14 AM »
I believe they are IDI. Im not sure if they make them in DI. I know the S-195’s were made both ways.
I think the S-165 will be the best you can find for your application.
I think the S-165 will be the best you can find for your application.
10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Reduced HP / RPM. Setting up for continues run, low output
« on: December 30, 2020, 11:59:10 PM »I've been searching for an option for a low output CHP set, right around .5-1 HP. I'm looking for 300-600watts continues electric and heat output. Think small cabin type setup. I want it to run continues but be able to go a 25k hours between major rebuild(if possible) so I'm thinking low 100-200 RPM. Big piston / flywheel motor looks like the way to go.
So far, I'm thinking a listeroid may be the simplest setup, but I'm not sure what kind of power output at those speeds. I was also looking at a changfa but I think indirect injection would probably be more reliable at low speed vs the changfa direct injection. Its going to also run on oil.
Your looking for only 300 to 600 watts?
A listeroid is too large. It will never heat up enough. There is just too much iron to soaking up the heat. It will coke up, and cylinder will most likely glaze up with such a light load. And a gooey mess coming out of the exhaust. I doubt the crankcase will get hot enough to evaporate the moisture.
If you can find an R-165 and slow it down I would think it might be a better setup. It's only rated to 3hp.
Running it at around 1800 might give you around 1.5 hp. With friction and losses in a belt setup it might get you to where you need to be.
11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 30, 2020, 06:41:09 PM »
It might be tough to pull a continuous load without increasing displacement. Need to de-rate the engine about 14%. From calculations it comes out to roughly 6.88 hp.
Or try turbocharging.
And the cheapest option might be to get her a gas stove/oven. I think gas cooks better.
Or try turbocharging.
And the cheapest option might be to get her a gas stove/oven. I think gas cooks better.
12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 30, 2020, 01:47:05 AM » Done that trick on my Honda Lawn mower engine for 3 or 4 years right after it was taken out of storage to start mowing. Just last year I finally had to replace the carb.It works.
13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 29, 2020, 06:58:23 PM »
Gadget, most people that try doing porting without understanding or proper schooling normally mess things up. The GM-90 head has a J figure casted in the pocket underneath the intake valve. Its roughly 1/4" tall. I agree that it's there to increase air speed and in turn also helps with swirling effect. As I wrote, this would also aid in mixing a gas that's injected in the intake. These engines, including the CS listeroid's dont need large valves or porting. Doing so will reduce air speed and in some instances it will effect performance and efficiency. Now, if there is casting pieces that can break than yes, get it out. But otherwise most of the time it's best to leave it alone.
Brings back memories of the Ford Boss 302 and 351 Cleveland engines. The intake valves and ports were too large for street use. The engines would gas foul the plugs so often. They would not run right until you were over 4000 rpm they ran great over 5000 rpm. This was the reasons why a the Australian Cleavland heads became so popular. Smaller combustion chambers and intake posts. They work great on street performance engines. The Aussie's got it right.
Brings back memories of the Ford Boss 302 and 351 Cleveland engines. The intake valves and ports were too large for street use. The engines would gas foul the plugs so often. They would not run right until you were over 4000 rpm they ran great over 5000 rpm. This was the reasons why a the Australian Cleavland heads became so popular. Smaller combustion chambers and intake posts. They work great on street performance engines. The Aussie's got it right.
14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 28, 2020, 12:46:04 PM »
Before I purchased a Satyajeet GM-90 6-1 back in 2006 Mike Monteth showed me a head. The bowl of the intake side had extra metal casted in the port right under the valve. He explained that it’s in there to help create a swirling effect of the incoming air that enters the combustion chamber from the DI head. He said this helps with efficiency and not to remove the casting. He mentioned that removing it will reduce hp and efficiency and in turn make it burn dirtier.
These Listeroids and GM-90’s run so slow that in theory it seems that you would want to leave the ports small. Especially if your going to use propane or NG injection in the intake port.
These Listeroids and GM-90’s run so slow that in theory it seems that you would want to leave the ports small. Especially if your going to use propane or NG injection in the intake port.
15
Generators / Re: Need some input on buying a Stamford Generator Head
« on: December 27, 2020, 02:58:27 PM »
The 1987-1991 F150 pickups were some of the toughest trucks, and they were some of the ugliest made. But the ugliness grows on you after a while. They have thick metal body and no front crumple zones on the front of the frame.
The only reason I’m doing a ignition and fuel injection do over is the truck is the truck sat for over six years with full tanks of fuel. The fuel looked like chocolate pudding with chocolate chips. The electrical system was damaged by mice living under the hood. The whole wiring harness from the ECU to forward was destroyed. The ECU is bad. 4 out of the 6 injectors can’t be rebuilt, EGR bad............
Fortunately, the engine is in excellent shape. Compression is well within spec. Within a 5% difference from lowest to highest. Since I got the truck for free and emissions is not a concern l’m going to convert it to a simpler setup so maintenance will be easier. At least that is what I’m hoping for.
The only reason I’m doing a ignition and fuel injection do over is the truck is the truck sat for over six years with full tanks of fuel. The fuel looked like chocolate pudding with chocolate chips. The electrical system was damaged by mice living under the hood. The whole wiring harness from the ECU to forward was destroyed. The ECU is bad. 4 out of the 6 injectors can’t be rebuilt, EGR bad............
Fortunately, the engine is in excellent shape. Compression is well within spec. Within a 5% difference from lowest to highest. Since I got the truck for free and emissions is not a concern l’m going to convert it to a simpler setup so maintenance will be easier. At least that is what I’m hoping for.