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Messages - listard-jp2

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 42
1
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Lister 6HP CS in Cornwall;
« on: October 18, 2020, 01:15:39 PM »
It would need, new liner and block and piston and rings (because it looks like someone has tried to hone the 'Listard' liner.)

I have genuine NOS Coventry piston company pistons for that engine upto +0.060" oversize, I am UK based.

PM me if interested.

2
Petteroids / Re: Ph2 engine smoking
« on: October 14, 2020, 05:25:32 PM »
I'm not convinced it'd leave enough oil, by itself, to cause the engine to be unstoppable by normal means (fuel rack). So I suspect you're ingesting oil from somewhere else too.

Other than an oil bath air filter [Dumper truck applications usually have paper element air filters] that has been overfilled, I cant see where else it could come from, unless it has a lot of piston blow by and it is running on the oil fumes been sucked back into the engine via the internal breather tubes (in which case it would also be a bad starter as well)

I have seen this happen on a Citroen BX 19RD (I was not the driver) and it happened after a long motorway run, just as we were coming up to the slip road, the driver eased off the throttle, and it just kept on going. Scary stuff, and as the OP stated, the only way to stop the engine was to stall it.

3
Petteroids / Re: Ph2 engine smoking
« on: October 13, 2020, 06:25:28 PM »
Welcome to the LEF.

You could start by taking off the inlet manifold, and looking down the inlet ports to see if oil is present. This is a possible cause of your problem, but I am skeptical as the PH engine has an internal breather pipe from the inlet port (which sucks oil mist directly into the inlet port, hence preventing oil been sucked down the inlet guide, you will see what I mean if you take off one of the rocker covers)

However, it is more likely to be oil control ring wear or if the oil control rings have stuck in the grooves. Might be time to go for a top end overhaul? as parts are still easy to find to find for the PH.

If you prefer genuine parts google the Jim Perkins and he can supply you with genuine OEM parts.



 


4
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Seized fuel pump
« on: October 12, 2020, 06:15:38 AM »
Check the follower wheel as it is likely to be stuck also.

Which then usually causes a flat to be worn on the roller follower, if not caught soon enough, and if left long enough this will also destroy the I/P cam lobe..

Quite common to see this engines that are left outside and exposed to the elements, as this is an easy path into the engine for rain water.

5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Seized fuel pump
« on: October 11, 2020, 06:41:17 PM »
As Butch said, it may not be necessary to remove the governor housing, but if you need to it is possible to remove the governor housing without stripping off the flywheel.
It can be done by removing the two long studs that hold the housing to the crankcase as the first step, its not easy but is doable, and is preferable to flywheel removal.
Once this housing is out of the way, if required you can even remove the camshaft on a single cylinder CS, without disturbing the flywheel.

P.S. It is nice to see you make a return Butch.

6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister BA2
« on: July 22, 2020, 06:38:05 PM »
/\ Lets hope it's not a SL2 for your sake, as the SL is tricky for certain spares that are unique to that engine.

If it is SL the outline of the cylinder barrel fins will be circular, compared to the SR which will be square in outline.

This is not a totally reliable indicator, because a round outline can also indicate LD2, just as a square outline could also indicate LR2

7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister BA2
« on: July 21, 2020, 08:28:30 PM »
/\ /\ Beat me to it :)

Furthermore it will not be a ST2 as that engine has two of the four cylinder head nuts exposed, and as a result has a different style of rocker cover.

Agreed it is most likely a Lister SR2*, and the engine type will be in the middle of a long string of numbers that also comprise of the serial number. The data plate is usually attached to the injection pump inspection door.

Though it could also conceivably be a Lister SL2, LD2, or LR2.

8
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 12, 2020, 05:12:35 PM »
/\ What he said.

But also if you did decide to go with +0.030"  o/s it is also possible that any wear ridge would not entirely clean up if it has really bad bore wear or pitting, and if you ran the engine with +0.030" pistons in it, who is to say you would ever be able to find a couple of +0.030" sets in the the future if you had to re-ring it as part of a top end rebuild.

9
Engines / Re: Lister
« on: July 02, 2020, 07:52:22 AM »
/\ That is one option, but those LT engines have a very spindly camshaft, also it will be at 1/2 engine speed.

However here is a link to another thread, by someone who managed to achieve that albeit unintentionally.

https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9009.0

To change the DOR of a Lister engine is a lot of work, and you will need to replace the following:

Camshaft, starting dog, starting handle, flywheel fan shroud, and flywheel fan. No need to change the oil pump as these are a plunger design.

Easiest way to achieve this is to find an identical scrapper reverse rotation Lister engine and swap the bits over.

Edit: You will  also have to change the flywheel end crankshaft oil seal, because although these engines have a rubber lip oil seal it usually has a preferred direction of rotation, as it has a scroll molded into the sealing surface.

10
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« on: July 02, 2020, 07:43:03 AM »
That is some tractor, I think you should consider an engine upgrade to a Lister JP4  ;D

What make of tractor is that, and where are you based.

Back to your original question:

Unfortunately we need to work on the engine because the water flows to the oil.

The most likely cause of this problem is cylinder liner 'O-ring' failure.
It is not likely to be cylinder head gasket failure, as the pushrods (where water is most likely to get into the oil) pass through a threaded 3/4" BSP tube which is screwed into the top of the cylinder block, the head then passes over this tube, and a large nut and washer is screwed down onto it and into a recess in the cylinder head.

The cylinder liners have two 'O-rings' and between the first and second 'O-ring' a tell tale hole is drilled, this should indicate when the first O-ring has failed.

11
Engines / Re: how adjust pushrods for GM90
« on: June 24, 2020, 07:30:55 PM »
If your clone is anything like an original Lister CS engine, then it will be perfectly normal for the inlet and exhaust push rods to be different lengths.

The exhaust push rod will be shorter as it has to accommodate a valve lifter (de-compressor) on the exhaust tappet.

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Direction of rotation
« on: June 09, 2020, 08:13:45 PM »
In a word No.

You will also need a reverse rotation oil pump, and a different flywheel cowling.

If you contact Jim Perkins an expert on the PH engine range
 http://www.petterengines.co.uk/

He may have the parts you require

13
General Discussion / Re: JP3 overload cam
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:55:18 PM »
Ahhhhh the venerable Lister JP, a subject which I am familiar with.

You refer to the overload (excess fueling) protection device on the end of the fuel pump rack, to start the engine you lift the overload stop and move the fuel pump rack as far as it will go in the maximum fueling direction.

When the engine starts, the governor quickly moves the rack, and the excess fueling device reverts back to its normal overload protection position.

14
Engines / Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:50:01 PM »
To remove the crank (to completely clean the case) I can see that the centre main bearing housing must move actually with the crank, but what then?
Before you do that you will need to remove a dowel pin, which is located down the bottom of the oil feed hole connection for the centre main bearing, from which you would have removed the internal oil feed pipe from, if memory serves me correct it has a 1/4" UNF hole tapped in it.

Does one split it between its current position and the end bearing housing or does it have to pass through the latter before being split  and removed?


You remove the timing gear, and the whole crank slides out of the flywheel end of the crankcase, the crank comes out complete with the centre main housing (cheese), and balance weights.

What sort of fit should it be - it seems tight, but I donít want to bend the crank at the big ends in levering it forward.

It will be until you remove the retaining dowel pin

Iíve seen some relatively cheap + 20thou pistons. Should I get the barrels bored to suit?

If the engine has seized due to water ingress, it is highly likely that corrosion has pitted the cylinder bores deeper than that, and +020 will not clean it up.

15
Engines / Re: lister LR1 exhaust silencer
« on: May 17, 2020, 07:04:14 PM »
The thread size on the LR1 exhaust manifold is 1" BSP.

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