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Messages - 38ac

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Parts availability - 10/1
« on: March 18, 2023, 06:02:20 PM »
It will have to be apart and bore measured as several bore sizes have been seen on egines rated at 10/1 or 20/2.  Most likely 120mm but I have seen 114mm and 127mm.

General Discussion / Re: Shop busy work
« on: March 11, 2023, 08:12:38 PM »
I bought four of them from a manufacturer of APU units for road tractors 8-10 years ago. They were not allowed to use them on new trucks with tier4 requirements. I sold 2 and kept 2. The first one I installed on the splitter had issues soI set it aside and put the other one on. I have tried for two months to get parts for the bad engine and its like they never existed in spite ofbeing made by a major engine firm Jiangdong. They denied making them so I sent them a picture of the tag, no responce. My guess is Kubota got a hold of them and said you either knock it off or suffer X. consequences. They are identical to a Kubota 482 on steroids.

Engines / Re: petter/lister PH1
« on: March 10, 2023, 01:21:18 PM »
 My experience with PH1 engines is somewhat limited but some of them, maybe all?  have a stub shaft on both the crankshaft and on the camshaft. You crank them from the camshaft to double your cranking speed.  As was said if your are barely getting enough speed to get it over center when you decompress it then it will kick back, even when everything's right. If the pump to too far advanced it will also kick back. The crank action required to start one is best discribed as brisk, casual cranking isn't going to cut it. Checking the pump timing will require either a manual or someone more knowledgeable than I to tell you how to do it.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister JP4 - which oil should I use
« on: March 04, 2023, 09:26:43 PM »
Not sure where you are located but here in the states all 15w-40 oil is diesel rated. Look for CK4 or better ratings. Actually any detergent motor oil available today is superior to what was available when it was made. 
Never did understand the mineral oil deal? what else is there that one would out in an engine ?Olive oil? LOL

Generators / Re: Fuel pump timing
« on: February 25, 2023, 12:48:02 PM »
Follwing up on an engine that others have diddled with is always an adventure.. Has the engine been run long enough to get all the air out of the system? White smoke is unignited fuel , not too much fuel, that would be black. I can't help you with the specs but if the engine had been sitting a long while my money would be on stuck pintles in the injectors. Lacking an injector tester it's  easy enough to check by swapping 1 and 2 for 3 and 4.  If the problem moves then its the injectors, if not then it could be any of several other things. Another easy check is if the smoke clears up a bit and changes blue when the engine warms up but the exhaust smells putrid and makes your eyes water then you have stuck or leaking injectors. Bottle cures can help stuck injectors if not severely stuck.

General Discussion / It isnt all about engines
« on: February 23, 2023, 01:00:45 PM »
I enjoy very few things outside of the work shop but I do like running my little sawmill. Had a white pine in the yard that needed to go away. Set up the Peterson and enjoyed a day of cutting. This was just the first of 5 logs. When dry the lumber is going to line the inside walls of the new shed where I display my engine collection. 

Listeroid Engines / Re: 800 hours on 16/2...Toilet Paper Filter
« on: February 18, 2023, 06:51:57 PM »
^^^This one should be clickable^^^
Good work Ken, very few of these engines see that kind of hours

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 15, 2023, 12:43:14 PM »
Sent you a PM, My buisiness is not conducted on open forums

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 13, 2023, 01:22:57 PM »
I have Gibb keys in stock. No, you cannot reach the piston through the injector hole on an indirect injection Lister . Some of the clones are direct injected and can be.
 Flywheel in the way? Yes. Is it an issue? No. Use the other one and leave the #1 side off  ???  ???
To find top dead center you first need a pointer and a refferance. Mount the #2 flywheel and lightly secure with a key. Next using a piece of heavy wire, or flat stock make a pointer on one end. You attach it to any handy bolt.  Point it at the flywheel rim, the closer without touching the better. Next you need to decompress the #2 cylinder. This can be done by loosening the injector. Next turn the crankshaft so the keyways are at 3 or 9 o'clock makes no differance which way.  Now on the number one cylinder you need to block the exhaust valve open as shown in the attached picture, not just a little bit open but as far as you can. Use a vise grip on the rocker to pull it open. Next carefully turn the engine until the piston hits the exhaust valve. Put a mark on the flywheel at the pointer. Next turn the engine the other way until it hits again. Place a mark under the pointer. Care fully measure between the two marks. Divide measurement by 2. and place a mark exactly halfway between. Cylider 1 is TDC when at the pointer is at your TDC mark.  Remove the block holding the valve open. Rotate the engine to your TDC mark.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CS 12-2 rebuild
« on: February 10, 2023, 10:55:11 AM »
There are many more CS Listers in Canada than here in the states thus they bring less money there..  Recent sales of CS twins here in the states that I am aware of range from $500 to $5000 with the low end being poor condition and the high end freshly and completely rebuilt.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 09, 2023, 05:39:39 PM »
Here are the flywheel marks on a 16/2 currently in my shop. Notice the 2? tvus means they are used for the #2 cylinder. Not all flywheels will have the #2 marks, just #1. If your flywheels are unmarked then you will have to find TDC and mark them

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 09, 2023, 05:33:55 PM »
Here is a gear set sitting on my bench and showing a mark on the cam gear. I would use a punch mark instead of a marker in real use. As you can see the mark easily can be remeshed correctly no matter how the idler gear would be turned. Remember its the cam gear we are worried about, NOT the exact teeth on the idler which will change when you rotate the crankshaft. You can see this gear relationship with the parts in the engine block.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 09, 2023, 04:12:05 PM »
Ha!  The plot is already pretty thick at my end.  Last question first.  I read in the Lister manual that the shear pins were #6 taper pins.  I found them at McMaster-Carr and after three orders managed to get the right ones.  I had two to replace.  After hammering the pins tight I mushroomed both ends to look exactly like the ones that already there.There is no need to mushroom the taper pins
Boy, if I could time this engine without removing the idler gear or the cylinder that would make me a much happier camper.  I have a few questions.  When standing in front of the engine on the oil pump side, No. 1 is on the right?  I assumed the opposite.Correct
I did not tie up the lifters but they are still in there.  I wasn't worried because the manual says to use heavy grease to hold them up, and I assumed it wasn't difficult.  Before I do anything else I will secure them.
I wasn't aware that there is an existing TDC mark on the flywheel.  Powdermonkey suggested I would have to mark it myself.  Where on the flywheel would I look for this mark? I guess I'm a bit confused if you have a CS or a clone. All CS are marked, most clones are not. The marks are on the face of the rim. Sand it off and look for a line. This is TDC when straight up. About 4 inches from the line there will be a lightning bolt. It is always very faint and you must look hard to see it. This is the spill timig mark for injection. Remember the flywheels must be installed on the correct side of the engine AND with the correct side out.   .
I think I understand everything up until marking the cam gear.  It seems like you are saying the cam gear will mesh with the idler gear exactly the same before and after turning the engine to TDC.  How is that possible?  Also, don't know what this means, "Confirm by rotating back and looking again."I'm not sure to to put it any more clear than the first time, I didn't go to school for teaching, LOL. In order to put the engine in time without removing the gear you must find the correct position for the cam. Forget about the crankshaft at this stage its not material. In order to find the cam position it must be in the engine unless you want to spend a week building a jig? With the cam installed turn the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder lifters are in the position described before by me and Powder monkey. Forget about the crank position it makes no difference at this juncture Now that you have the cam in the correct position you must mark THE CAM GEAR it so it can be reinstalled when the crankshaft is in the correct position.  You can see the gear mesh to the idler on the RH side. Either mark one tooth or two, then take a picture with your phone of how those marks line up on the idler gear. Next pull the cam out far enough that its out of mesh with the idler. Next  move the crankshaft to TDC. Then install the camshaft so the marked teeth are meshing the idler same as before, NOT HE SAME IDLER TEETH but the marked cam gear teeth meshing the idler gear in the same manner as when you marked them. Finally check your work by rocking the engine back and forth near TDC while watching the lifters. Stop when they are correctly positioned and then look at your TDC mark. It should be at TDC
Thanks for the help - Dan

Listeroid Engines / Re: Installing Cam on a CS 16-2
« on: February 08, 2023, 11:40:52 AM »
And the plot thickens. How did you get the camshaft out? I hope you tied the lifters up and didn't remove them!! You do not have to remove the cylinder block or the idler gear as long as you can find the timing mark in the flywheels. When the mark is straight up, centered in the block casting you are at TDC.  Next confirm that #1 , (which is the cylinder closest to the large cam cover and governor end of cam) is at TDC by looking in tbe crankcase. The flywheels are NOT the same and MUST be installed on the correct side.  Once you have confirmed all that look at the cam lobes and visually put them at overlap and put the cam in the engine and let the lifters down on it. Now rock the engine back and forth until the lifters are at overlap as discribed on my video and look at the timing mark. If its at TDC then you are OK, if not leave the engine where it is and mark thee cam gear where it meshes. NOT the idler, the CAM gear. Then pull the camshaft out far enough that the gears are out of mesh. Then rotate the engine to TDC and reinstall the camshaft with the marked teeth in mesh. Done, your in time. Confirm by rotating back while looking again. Past that I assume you realize that the #2 injection cam lobe is held on with a tapered pin and must be correctly installed?

General Discussion / Re: Shop busy work
« on: February 06, 2023, 07:11:01 PM »
From today my fingers are busy drivng and towing our caravan for the next 7 - 8 weeks
Hope you have a great holiday, enjoy!

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