Thanks for the reply, Both cylinders do die at the same time and yes there was a problem with one of the pump elements so it was replaced when i had the pumps serviced. I have to give it full throttle briefly when re starting.
I have not looked into the govenor side of things so thats the next job then. Its a 2000rpm motor and all the external springs look to be origional as they still had what looked like origional paint on them before i re-painted the engine. Another thing is that there are no instructions in the manual i have on how to set up these springs, one on the end of the pump rack (non adjustable)and one on the throttle rod (this one is tension adjustable).

Does anyone know the distance between the index mark on the injector pump rack and the injector pump body when timing a PH2W (2000 rpm). I have a manual that covers the ph2 air cooled which states the distance as 13/16 inch at 28 or 24 degrees BTDC when spill timing. Is the distance the same on a PH2W ?.
The problem is i cant seem to get the tickover rpm down low enough or what i think is low enough as i dont have means of measuring rpm. I have seen a video of one running at tickover and its running at a lower rpm than i can get mine to run.
Engine has recently been de coked, injectors seviced with new nozzles and pumps overhauled proffesionally.
It runs great except if you try and lower the rpm at tickover, as if the fuel is cut off too soon.
Thanks
Martin.

Hi, does anyone know what preasure i should be looking for in a compression test on my ph2w. in psi if possible! as thats what the gauge is calibrated.
Turns out its around 300 psi, if anyones interested.

Is your fuel tank above the injection pump? If not you might be leaking air into the system. Also is there a screen on the pickup in the tank? Could be plugged.

The tank is slightly below the pumps (fuel level higher than pumps when full), and is pumped to the injector pumps via a lift pump, no screen on the tank pick up but fuel travels through an auto spin on filter(new) then to the lift pump, then engine fuel filter and then the injector pumps.
the fuel flows freely and cant find any apparent air leaks but i will double check.
would air leak be more obvious at higher revs ?, the engine revs up fine.

hi, the engine was not tested fully before putting in the boat, it was just run briefly on the floor and not given a chance to tickover for any period of time. but there is excellent compression and the head bolts are tight, it has been standing for years before i had it, so maybe it needs a good workout before i make any adjustments, so that will have to be when the boat eventually hits the sea as i dont like running it hard whilst she is on the trailer.

Thanks for that, i would also have to run a dry exhaust or have a seperate pump to raw water cool the wet exhaust, the same if i was to fit an on board heat exchanger. so many different ways of doing things. not sure which way to run, the easiest being leave it raw water cooled !!

Boat is a long way from launching, started with a bare hull and i am slowly working my way  through it. engine is ready to fit. cash is the main problem, everything marine is as if you just add an extra zero !!