It's time some manufacters (in the vehicle spares industry also) that sub-contract the work pay more for the products, so we get a better product at the end of it.

Are "Listeroids" named as such or do they still have the Lister name on them.  I don't want to buy the wrong thing!

Hallo Zagato,

I still got some new 'Roids for sale, some not even uncrated. 6/1 's and 12/1 's. Also spares.
They are in Spain.
Some of them have hollow dippers, some have mobile (centrifugal ) oil ring pumps and plain upper shells on the big end bearing, so they are better than the original indian ones. Contact me on energiesnaturals@gmx.de if interested.
Rolf

Hallo and thanks Bill and Tijan and others,

head is off and yes, the outlet valve is slightly marked upon the piston.
But the piston doesn't even quite reach the rim of the cylinder protrusion !
And there still is the thickness of the (quite compressed-) gasket.
Anyway, I'll strip all those foot gaskets and make some new spacers.
I marked TDC at this occasion and will now check spill time.
Anyway, the noise doesn't come from bad timing, it was not there before I torqued the head to specs and the engine ran ( for some moments...)

Rolf

Mucke

Well if you are going to increase the squish you will have the head off again, so then it would become apparent if the valves were hitting the piston.

On my 10/1 I used a very close squish to raise compression on purpose. It did cause piston to valve interference so I went to the 6/1 wider valve clearances to prevent the problem, it was just enough.

Do you have the first blown head gasket to compare to the replacement? Thickness wise?

Maybe you are mistaking the noises you are hearing, have you spill timed it, it may be firing way to early.

As Tijan said check your valve clearances if they are clearing it will run with the narrow squish. If one of the valves is hitting, it's push rod will be very stressed you should be able to FEEL it as you roll the motor over by hand.

One other thing the decompressor may be to high, it was on my engine with the modified squish so be careful until you are sure of your running clearances.

Billswan

Hallo friends,

back after some time, I wonder if there is any compilation for exact and trust worthy values for all kind of clearances and torque values for  Listeroids of any kind.
My 12/1 ´s for instance:
I asked the Lovson people and they gave me 1.9-2 mm head clearance  which I think is a lot.
They claim .10 - .13 mm big end clearance -
they give no info on head torque - which on a 12/1 with it´s larger bore should be higher than the 6/1 c´s !
Neither for big end torque.

Who knows for shure and where can I read it ?


thanks a lot
Rolf

btw I have built some electric starters on both 6/1 and 12/1 engines.
Ford Transit Van starter motor with fits the standard indian krank gear plates and turns even  a 12/1 cold start without the decompression device as long as you have a good 120 Ah battery.
The 6/1 is easy on a Nissan Vanette starter motor and also with a flexplate from a GM 4.2 l V6 engine.
The flexplate adapts fine to the crankshaft by help of a 1 mm sheet sleave .
I drilled thru the original fastening holes of the plate into the flywheels and tapped with 12 mm thread.

I also made a mask for a standard 54 mm steel pot saw for a slow power tool to mill a hole into the head to fit a standard thermostat and a standard Ford Fiesta thermostat housing .
The holes of the housing´s flange have just the right distance for the water outlet studs. 

OMG! U got to be kidding me. They used paper for shims?  The metal between the connecting rod I can understand but paper.  Looks like a long winter.

Nothing wrong with paper as long as it is on a large surface area and thus not highly pressed. Will work fine !
make shure you put it in without any plies for water tightness.
Some elastic joint cement will help.
Rolf

Quote from: NoSpark on November 11, 2008, 05:32:18 AM

Whats the worst that could happen if I blended this stuff with diesel(unwashed) but started and stopped on diesel?

... that you need a new engine.
It is one thing to hope that your oil is not contaminated but to use oil that is known to contain sugar seems real silly to me. Let's see ... you probably will have some moisture of some kind in the oil and it is very likely that some of the sugar will dissolve in the oil. It will then pass through all your filtering and likely show up in the end product. If it crystallizes in the injector pump due somehow to the high pressures, you will score the pump and will need to replace it which isn't cheap. Let's say by some stroke of luck it gets to the cylinder. As it goes into the cylinder whatever water was there evaporates and the sugar crystallizes in the process. Chances are it will eventually make it's way onto the cylinder walls and into the rings and your engine will seize up in no time flat.
All of this is a guess on my part but since it's a known fact that gasoline engines get killed real quick with sugar I think I am safe with my guess. It might take a lot longer but it will happen eventually. It's really not worth the try unless you have an old beater and you need a good excuse to tell your wife that you need a new vehicle (honey, the engine seized up and it will cost too much to fix - looks like we will need to buy a new car/truck)

May I point out that blending in winter is not really a good idea unless you live someplace warm ?  Now if you heat your blended fuel before it gets  the pump or filter and then heated the injector lines, outside temperature would be irrelevant as long as you waited with the switch to the blend until everything is warm.
No matter how you slice things, you need to filter better than the bed sheets you talked about. I happen to use bed sheets as well but only as a pre-filter type of deal.

BTW, blending to 15% or so is ok in the summer but if you want to go higher than that you really need to heat your fuel.
I would suggest that a bit more research is in order.

Jens

Hallo Jens,
I just read your old posting and it would scare hell out of me if I hadn't burned WVO for years in roids and in our Passat and Opel TD (softturbos idi)

The oil comes straight from all kind of bars, restaurants and hotel kitchens around here and inn summer, I mostly only let it decant for a month or two an use it straight away in the roids and filter it thru a 2 my felt for the  cars.Then I boil (150 °C ) the rest and filter it after some cooling.
Yes, winter is a problem since I do not separate the fats well enough but sugar has never been one.
What happens to sugar in a burning oil spray in the prechamber and in a hot engine ?

I had once a seized pump on a 6/1 after months of uncautious leaving old unfiltered frying oil in it over the summer and part of the winter,  but some WD 40 and light taps with a tool resolved that.
Can I only have been lucky over all these years ?

Rolf
Yes I

FWIW, here's how my glowplug COV assembly looks



Works very well, temperature was less than 15F this morning, and she started on the first compression stroke.........

One thing, if you get plugs make sure you get the double coil ones, they're supposed to be made to be on continuously, and won't burn out if you accidentally leave it connected to your power source all night (don't ask me how I know  )

I got a couple of extra ones made right away too

Good photo ! But i think the tip of the plug protrudes too much into the prechamber. If it gets constantly hit by the inyector's spray it can fall apart and bits get into the combustion chamber. CIP's don t like that at all.
I chose the shorter ones (110 mm) 10 mm thread and leave the tip slightly back in the plug.

Rolf

Wow!!
I managed to eat through the jungle of footsteps.
See pics of squish (with my dirty hands..) on:
http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=402

Rolf