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Topics - Mr X

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I'm selling a c 46 arrow. It's old, the guy said about 1950 is. It's all there turns over but I've not had running perfect for an off grinder or tinkerer.
     I've also got a k6 these were an Indian petter. It's a heafty little beast. I put some new parts, rings,herrings,head gasket,spark plug, gaskets. I've had running just need govenor dialed in. This would be a good off grid runner. Both are ng or propane, I guess you could even convert to gasoline. The k6 could be converted to diesel . I'm looking for 1,200.00 for the k6 and the c46 I'm open to offers call 8 am to 10 pm 780-618-5818 Greg.

Petteroids / Arrow C46 for free.
« on: October 16, 2018, 09:31:45 PM »
Just visiting with my oil field engine friend and I spotted a c 46 poking out of his garbage can. Was just about to ask about it when he said I could have it free. So I have to wait for their picker and he'll pull it out of the junk bin. It will run with very little tinkering. Good skore. Now I'm engine poor. I have a listeroid , a k6  arrow and now a arrow c 46. I guess I'm in the business of selling to off grinders engines.

Listeroid Engines / Maintenance when burning wvo
« on: April 07, 2018, 12:13:28 AM »
I'm now finding eleven though I try and follow a service schedule but I'm finding that burning this dirty crap my service ain't good enough. Was having injector problems, didn't seem to be getting fuel very hard to start. After messing wit timing still hard to start. So I started taking the old injector pump apart. This pump I took off a few yrs ago and just now am I looking at it. It is filthy, this is one part that should be serviced at least once year. I just discovered you can pull apart injector tips and clean. This should be done about every oil change. Also I just discovered you can take the top con rod Bering out through the side cover ,it's a pain but can be done. I think after I turned a Bering I'll keep a close eye on that, maybe every 2 to 3 oil change. I'm going to have to make a check list just to keep track of this stuff. I have 12000 hr on it now still running good. I'm getting natural gas this year so I'm going to run it on duel fuel, wvo and ng. I just bought cheep a arrow k6 engine. I'm thinking I'd like to turn back into diesel if I can find parts that fit, well see.

Petteroids / Arrow k6
« on: April 06, 2018, 11:50:03 PM »
I'm now the proud owner of a 07 k6 arrow engine. Got home and she's a hefty lil bugger. Good thing I still had a friends engine hoist. Any way I bought it cheep the price of a bottle and a case of beer. Which is a good thing cause right now it seems to be frozen. Eat her truly frozen or rusted. I gave it a squirt of w d 40 in the valves couldn't get the plug out. So I'll have to heat it up and check it out more. I sure am curious as to if these are Indian made. Cause I'm like to convert back to diesel . Looking at it I'd need a new side cover that contains the opening for the i p pump, then I'd need the cam follower. Then I'd need the fuel line and injector. I have no idea as to why the retired this and what is wrong, or maybe I'm the proud owner of a boat anchor. I just need a boat.

Listeroid Engines / Oh oh I turned a berring
« on: August 04, 2017, 05:31:48 PM »
Last week I heard a noise I thought was a bearing in my gen head. I took it to a rebuild guy and he said it the bearing was turning in the housing end but managed to fix it for 375.00 . OK I hook it up and fire up my roid and an hour later it quits .so restarting it I notice there is some strange thump and bump and an ugly growel. Now what, I take off the sump inspection plate and lay down and slowly turn the flywheel. I notice the joint of the Conrod cank bearing is following the crank around. Shit! I've spun a bearing,  and I see my sump magnets are full of metal grinding.  I see the cotter pin on the far side king nut is missing, also the spacer on the front side of the bearing she'll is missing. The end of the oil finger is ground down. I see the crank is badly scared and any babet is long gone and now metal on metal. Damn I've only got 10500 hr on it it can't be over. I don't have much money and all the proper fixes involve money. I'm going to try an Indian fix, what ever that is. But I'll try and smooth the crank with emmerory cloth. Not sure how maybe spin the crank with 1/2 in drill and try and follow with a long strip of emmerory.  Maybe I can clean it enough that it will work. So what if I have to check bearing every oil change, it may work I'm sure crude fixes have been done on these old engines, any body got any suggestions that won't cost much. I know a new crank is about 250.00 and probably near as much for shipping. Machine shop would charge about the same.


Listeroid Engines / Hurry rigged starter
« on: February 05, 2016, 03:00:25 PM »
Wow this morning I wet to start the Roid and huff and puff she wouldn't start. Ok so I rested and tried again. And I rested and tried again. And again still no go . I checked and blead the injector line,no. I checked and blead the injector pump, no. Shit, now after a few more tries to start I'm hooped. I can visualize a heart attak. Better have an early lunch and a nap. 2 hr later it's time to try again, no. Ok bring out the spare gen set and I'll try something. I have a large socket set 2 in socket and put a 3/8 nut in the key way Aand it bites. I have driver reducers that go from 3/4 to fitting in a drill. I use my 1/2 Mikita drill, fire up the spare gen and give it a try, it turns it just barely, drill I'm sure isn't happy. Can't smell no smoke so it's ok. Ok off we go spinning spinning ever faster but I can't let go of the drill to grab compression release, ah finly, reached it and the Roid springs into life wow what a process. I'm going to have to finish the electric start I'm I started building last fall, share would help in times like this.


Listeroid Engines / Combined heat and power. Cloths dryer
« on: July 02, 2015, 02:10:12 PM »
I found the Roid didn't have enough power to run a electric dryer, it would but the rpm was slowly dropping and the fluorescent lights would soon flicker as it got below the required hz. So I disconected on leg from the heating element, the dryer just nearly got warm and after 2 hr of tumbling the cloths still weren't dry. Being that the Roid is just on the other side of a wall why not hook up a hot air duct from the rad to my intake to my dryer. Now I checked the heat being sucked through the duct and it is 125 f not bad so ad that to what the 220 element running on 120 puts out and voila a load of cloths drys in 1 hr. Happy wife. I'll take some pics and add to my photobucket.


Listeroid Engines / Water in jection decarboning
« on: January 04, 2015, 04:09:46 PM »
I was having trouble with bad!! Carbon build up. Or I'm getting less tolerant to the knocking coming from my Roid. I couldn't make it 250 hr oil change to oil change and it would involve 3/4 day tear down and decarbon. I burn WVO with just 10% jet or diesel. Yes I heat my filter and yes I heat my injection line, but it still knocked. I started snooping around for any info about it and seems some are having success with water injection. I just didn't know how totally successfully it is. After an afternoons tinkering I came up with something that works. I took a 3 inch piece of thermocouple off a gas hotwater tank and took the wire out of it. I cut it with tin snips and liteley squeezed the end open just a bit. Then I drilled a small hole in the intake manifold just below the clamp of the stock air cleaner. I then shoved my small copper pipe in till I found the sweet spot when it sprays a lite mist. The other end I attached to a windshield squirter hose put a small piece of copper pipe on it to act as a weight. I found a water jug, not a bottel, you need something with a large surface area at the correct height. It seems to be dependant on syphon so the correct height is important. I fill with about a liter of clean water every few days, and it last maybe 2-3 hr I never timed it but it sure works. I'll take some pics later today


Listeroid Engines / Lo no oil
« on: December 21, 2014, 02:57:59 PM »
The other day I wandered out to shut the mighty Roid and as I passed by I peeked in and saw my under motor oil pan full of black oil, shit. Not again. I am running a toilet paper filter and it is plumed in with 3/8 rubber fuel line. I guess the constant pressure surges of that little pump was enough to over 500 hrs burst my fuel line. I have no idea how long it ran like that but I think the splash system saved it from destruction. There was still a little pool of oil in the curved well under the crank just enough to splash a bit around and keep things working. Yes I have now plumbed it with 3/8 copper, hopefully it won't happen again.
      Would anyone have ideas of a low oil warning or even shutdown, this is the second time this happened and I don't wish to repeat it. I'm thinking maybe of a small air ram T ed into my oil line and if there is oil being pumped it would extend the ram thus keeping it running. If there was a oil leak the pressure would hopefully drop ( if not replaced with air pressure) and with the help of a return spring pull in the air ram plunger thus hooked to decompression lever shutting Down the Roid. I have already proved that she'll run with out oil so this system wouldn't be instant it would work over a while hopefully saving my big green girl. Any one built such a creature any ideas? 

Mr X

Engines / in place valve lap
« on: December 26, 2008, 06:18:36 PM »
It happened again my intake valve seems to get blocked open about once a year and I dont  feel like taking the head off to lap the valve a,4 hour project. So late one nite as my batteries were suffering the low voltage blues it came to me. Can I take the rocker arm off and grab the end of the valve and turn it to lap the valve??? I tried it and it worked. At first I used an aluminiem soft jaw and vice grips to turn the valve when I thought the cordless drill would work, and it dose. I didnt even need to reset the valves. I marked the left and right push rods and so when I put it back together it was ready to run. A nice simple fix that took less then 1 hr. And it runs again.

Mr X

Lister Based Generators / how exact is exact? exactly
« on: January 16, 2006, 12:52:55 AM »
Im wondering about pully size Im getting one machiened tomorrow. I have a 4k 3600 rpm winco The math works out to aproximatly exactly a ratio of 5.55-1 or a driven size of 4.25'' Giving me 3594 rpm at 650 on the prime mover. 10 rpm on the prime mover causes a in or decrease of 45 on the driven. This seams like a real sensitive ballance. With an engine screaming at 3600 a drop of 10 is nothing a drop of 45 still nothing. I guess what Im getting at is I have nothing to relate it to. That was pruven  today when I put a physical tack on the shaft and found it was running at 780 rpm I slowed it to 654 and it really smoothed out. I live at about 3000 feet bove sea level
So all ready a disadvantage.


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