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Topics - carlb23

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Everything else / Rotor/armature removal 2 pole tapered shaft engine.
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:25:02 PM »
I have a two pole 6.8kw genhead on an 12hp tapered shaft engine with a broken conrod.  I have removed the rotor / armatures from tapered shaft engines before without any real difficulty, but this one is being real stubborn.  Normally I would remove the center bolt on the rotor and insert a long rod then thread a bolt into the threaded end of the rotor and just push the rotor off the engine crankshaft.   This one is not budging and pulled the threads out of the end of the rotor.  I then tried (I never tried this method before) to whack it on the laminations with a 3lb dead blow hammer with no success. 

Any ideas how to get this stubborn rotor off the tapered engine shaft? 

Thanks

Carl

2
General Discussion / Rigid RD90800s 8kw 3600rpm generator
« on: September 18, 2015, 05:22:00 PM »
I purchased a used rigid generator with a 14hp electric start Subaru engine and 8kw /10kw surge head that did not make electricity.  Since the rest of the generator was clean and the engine only had 96 hours on it I figured i would take a shot.


I am good with engines but not so good with generators so any help would be greatly appreciated.   If there are any other things i need to add please let me know as i only took readings i thought were relevant, but, again i don't know a whole lot about gen heads.    

When i applied 12vdc to the brushes i got 46vac out of the generator.  Suspecting a bad AVR I ordered a new one and replaced the old one.  To my dismay it was still not producing power.


I took a volt reading across the brushes with the engine running and got 5vac (brushes looked good and the slip rings were clean.

When i ohm the rotor i got 61.5 to 62 ohms of resistance (dont know if that is good or bad)


There are 4 heavy gauge wires coming from the stator 2 black and two white.

When i ohm these wires i got

L1 to R1 0.2 ohms
L2 to R2 0.2 ohms

R1 to R2 0 ohms
L1 to L2 0ohns
L2 to R1 0 ohms
L1 to R2 0ohms

There are 4 smaller wires coming from the stator  white, green and two blue wires.
I only get resistance between the white and green no other combination results in any reading.

Is there a way to check the smaller wires which i believe are the harmonic winding but i am not sure. do i need to do this with the engine running.

Thanks for the help in advance


Carl




3
Listeroid Engines / Power outage
« on: June 27, 2015, 07:54:23 PM »
We had some very high straight line winds come through here on early Tuesday evening and a tornado warning (doesn't happen here in southern new jersey often) and it took out a lot of trees and power lines.  My neighbors trampoline who is about 400 yards away went through his vinyl fence and ended up in my back yard wedged against a large tree.   When I saw that I quickly got a large piece of rope and tied it to the tree so it wouldn't go any further. This thing was all bent up and we needed to just disassemble it and put it in the trash.

Power went out at around 6pm on Tuesday and they didn't restore power until around noon Friday.  I am pleased to say that the Listeroid performed flawlessly averaging 14to 16 hours straight per day average load was only about 1700 to 1800 watts. 

My listeroid is a hybrid using diesel for pilot ignition and natural gas.   In the approximately 45 to 50 hours of run time it only used a little over three gallons of diesel,  I have no idea how much natural gas it used but who cares I didn't have to go find a open gas station that sold diesel since i normally keep 15 to 20 gallons on hand.

4
Listeroid Engines / Rotella t6
« on: January 22, 2015, 11:31:40 AM »
Anybody run Rotella t6 (full synthetic) 5-40 in their Lister/Listeroids?

Thanks

Carl

5
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Babington Balls
« on: March 17, 2011, 09:53:57 PM »
I have a few extra Babington balls for sale. They are 7/8" solid brass drilled and tapped for 1/8"npt with a .010 hole in them.
The price is 15.00 each plus whatever shipping is.


6
Generators / Gen Head wiring
« on: April 29, 2009, 10:21:00 PM »
I want to replace this rats nest with a bridge rectifier but can't figure out what is going on with this wiring.
this is a 4kva Indian gen head anyone have any idea ???
I can't seem to insert an image into my post but here is a link to it  >:(


  http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1585

7
Generators / Transfer Switch
« on: April 26, 2009, 05:14:26 PM »
Here is a picture of my Siemens manual transfer switch


Doesn't want to work for me


 

8
Listeroid Engines / Power Failure
« on: October 29, 2008, 01:20:34 PM »
While we don't have power outages ofter or for long periods of times we have had two since Saturday.  The first on Saturday was for about 3 hours and last night was from about 6pm to 11pm. Needless to say the wife is now a listeriod fan and we were the only house in sight that had power.  While we are in a rural setting we do have about a dozen houses in sight from our home and they were all dark.  I had the TV, computer, Satellite dish, etc running and using my dual fuel diesel/natural gas combination. The listeroid only used about 24 oz of diesel and 360 cubic feet of natural gas @ 1.50 per 1000 cubic feet in the  5 hours it was running. I must say it was a great feeling to see the listeroid powering the house while the rest of the neighborhood was in the dark  ;D.

Carl 

9
Listeroid Engines / Lister running Diesel/natural gas.
« on: August 30, 2008, 08:08:53 PM »
I have added the ability to run natural gas in combination with Diesel in my 6/1 listerord.
The gas is fed via a standard type gas valve/regulator that can be found on many non vented radiant hanging space heaters(this does not have a probe or pilot). I drilled and taped a 1/8”npt hole in the bottom of the air inlet elbow to inject the gas. I made no modifications to the governor and adjust the natural gas via a needle valve right after the gas valve/regulator.  I ran several control tests to gauge the amount of natural gas to diesel at two different loads.  In each test I started with 6oz of diesel and timed how long it took the engine to burn that 6oz.  I made an adjustment to the amount of natural gas for each of the two different loads I tried.  I may add the ability for the engine to change the amount of natural gas using the governor in the future but my first tests proved that there is little to be gained unless the load varies greatly.  You will notice some differences in the load and frequency but this is due to the fact that I made not governor adjustments during the entire test. 


I based my cost on diesel at 4.25 per gallon and natural gas delivered at 1.45 per 100 cubic feet.

Watts    Volts     Amps        Hrz        Time run              RPM            amount of natural gas                   Cost             Hour   / KW
                                                                                                                                             Oil  / gas
                                                                                                                                                 hour
                                                                  TEST ONE
1512      216          7          54      13 min  18 sec          560/570                      0                            .90 /  0          .90    .60
1742      242         7.2        60      39 min 10 sec           610/620         .28 cubic feet per min               .30 / .24        .54    .31
   
                                           TEST TWO
2325      204       11.4        52        9 min 30 sec           550/560                      0                         1.22 /  0         1.22      .52
2825      250       11.3        60       40min  28 sec          610/620          .5 cubic feet per min             .29 / .43         .72       .25
 
I hope I got all of my math right.  I did shoot several stills as well as a video while I will post to youtube in the near future.  Please pick apart my methods and results if you think they are flawed.

Carl

10
Listeroid Engines / Dual Fuel
« on: August 15, 2008, 10:54:34 PM »
I have been playing around with the idea of running my lister on Diesel/natural gas for a while now.  I recently came across a small J&S carburetor (not much of a carburetor) but I was able to make it work pretty well.  While some fine tuning will be in order I can say that by fogging the intake with natural gas through this carb the engine is working well. This carburetor does not have a variable metering device so you only have an adjustment setting for the gas flow and that is it. I removed both the throttle blade and the chock  plates.

I was concerned that the 1" bore would be too restrictive but that doesn't seem to be the case.  I made up an adapter plate to attach it directly to the head. Running on diesel with no adjustments the engine ran the same as with just the pipe and air cleaner through the entire load range.

Starting the engine on diesel with no load i marked a line of the injector pump rack as a reference point.  When i turn on the natural gas the injector pump closes to what would be the required rack setting if the engine were running about 350 rpm I know this because i turned off the natural gas and moved the rack by had to where it had closed when the natural gas was on and my tach red 347rpm.

While i only loaded the engine a 6/1  metro to about 2500 watts the rack only moved slightly above where it would idle at no load. While i have no hard data on fuel consumption or on the amount of natural gas going into the engine right now I suspect that i am probably substituting at least 60% with natural gas.

At one point when it was running at no load if I increased the natural gas a little to much the rack would go too far closed and the engine would start to misfire. I suspect that there was not enough diesel going into the engine to light the natural gas off.

I will post a video in the near future after i get a little further along in my testing.  I think i need to take a fixed amount of diesel and a flow meter to see how much natural gas is really flowing with a constant load and see how well it does.


One thing i wanted to point out is that I did not modify the lister governor in any way I am just fogging natural gas into the intake at a fixed amount and the governor will add additional diesel if the load increases. Since it is easy to adjust the flow of natural gas I will set it for maximum efficiency at around 2,000 watts.  In this way while it will run with a little too much natural gas at no load it is quite happy from 500 watts to 2000 watts while never moving the rack past where it would run at no load on just diesel.

When the natural gas is not turned on the engine runs as it normally did on diesel.
I have a low voltage DC gas valve that I will wire into the generator (using a 24 volt dc power supply) so that no gas can go to the engine unless the generator is actually producing power so if the engine were to brake or stop for some reason the natural gas valve would close. This valve also has a manual on/off valve that will only allow gas to flow if the valve is on and power is applied.  I will use this valve to turn off the gas flow for startup and shutdown of the engine.


Carl

11
Everything else / For the thinking man and simple machines
« on: August 06, 2008, 04:02:52 PM »
Check out this link. It's fun and addicting.


http://fantasticcontraption.com/

Carl

12
Everything else / Adding additional load to you engine (if needed)
« on: June 27, 2008, 01:42:12 PM »
For those who run their engines a lot.

Has anyone thought about using an automotive A/C unit to help heat or cool by liquid phase change?  My thinking is that if you are running your engine at a relatively light load you may want to add some additional load to the engine for greater efficiency and an automotive a/c compressor might be a good way to add a constant load to the engine.  Depending where you place the condenser and where you locate the evaporator you could either put cold air into the house or hot air into the house.  Since these use a simple electric clutch system uncoupling them from the engine drive is quite simple.
You could use one compressor with two evaporators and two condensers fitted with three way valves for both summer and winter use thus making your own heat pump.

Carl

13
Generators / 120 VS 220 VAC
« on: May 21, 2008, 02:09:49 PM »
I have a Metro / indian made 4kVA generator head that came wired for 220 VAC split phase.  Since i only have 120 VAC loads on my backup load center (this is only for backup use not daily running)  i would like to re-wire the gen head for 120 so I don't have to deal with the issue of balancing the loads.  Does anyone here done this?  I do not have a wiring diagram for this head.

Thanks Carl

14
In the last video i was unable to get the exhaust on the outside of the house, It is really quite quiet. I started far from the house so i could include our wind turbine, 10kw of solar PV's and our solar hot air panel.  You really cant hear the exhaust until you get real close. Unfortunately where i have the crankcase vent coming out of the garage wall is very hard to see in the video. If you look at my other video you can see the check valve i used coming off the crankcase cover.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pp9w12H6HX8

Hope you like

Carl

15
Listeroid Engines / New 6/1 Video on youtube
« on: May 10, 2008, 07:13:52 PM »
I just added a new video of my 6/1 to youtube. I have added a spring to help take the slop out of the governor, an air starter (gast 4am) and a modified 20lb propane tank to the exhaust system. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL2zUvQIIuY

Hope you like

Carl

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