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Topics - clytle374

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Engines / Mothballing a diesel
« on: June 21, 2011, 12:35:23 AM »
I have a Kohler (Lombardini) 11hp engine that I need to take out of service of some unknown period of time.  The engine only has around 20 hours on it.

What is the best way to prepare and store the engine?

Sorry it's a highspeed, but don't know who else to ask


General Discussion / Specs(ohm) for Fairbanks Morse magneto?
« on: June 25, 2009, 06:27:33 PM »
I apologize in advance for it being neither slow nor diesel, but it is old if that helps.  Old Single cylinder 5hp Wisconsin.   Thought someone here might know. 

Type FMJ.  Intermittent spark.  Works occasionally when holding the spark plug lead.  :o  It probably is the coil, but would like to double check since it is $86, and I'm not sure the engine is worth fixing.   I spent several hours in vain searching the net for them. 

I'm also confused that there are two leads from the coil connected to the points.  The high tension is 5.5K ohms, one lead to the points is open and the other is 1 ohm. 


Other Slow Speed Diesels / Carroll Stream engines. Any info?
« on: June 17, 2009, 06:01:13 AM »
I hear these are Yanmar clones, are they any good?  As in a true clone, or a cheap knock off.

Just wondering since it is the closest thing to what I can afford.

Any other suggestion?

I don't have pictures yet so I'm linking the http://raleigh.craigslist.org/grd/1187569345.html Craigslist ad for the one I bought until I can get some day time pictures tomorrow.   And the companies website.http://www.bcs-america.com/what.cqs  Since new ones are well out of my price range I got an old one.

Tuesday started like every other day you plan to fight the endless war against weeds.  Take the 20 year old Montgomery Wards tiller and try get it to run, I have looked repeatedly for a new tiller but was never impressed.  We have a lot of garden, actually 5 of them.  While we till with a tractor mounted tiller in the spring and fall, you need something that will get between the rows during growing season.   RIP old tiller.

The reason I decided to share with everyone here is the design of these 'tractors', that is what the manufacture calls them.   And I tend to agree.  The motor bolts to the front directly to the bell housing.  The transmission is the chassis, just like a big tractor but with only two wheels sticking out.  Implements bolt to and run off the PTO end of the iron chassis.  On things like a sickle bar that need to be ahead of the tractor, you reverse the handles and the PTO is in front.  In rear PTO mode: 3 gears forward and one reverse. In front PTO mode: 1 forward and 1 reverse.  The more expensive and newer ones have more gears and features, but none have belts or chains. 

Just thought others might find this neat, and I had to share my new toy. 

Night time picture.

Listeroid Engines / GM-90 pressurized oiling question.
« on: June 05, 2009, 05:15:30 AM »
Hello all, I haven't been around here for a while since the power hasn't been out and the Listeroid has been running fine during its weekly exercise. 

When I bought this GM-90 (16/1) I'm pretty sure it was advertised as having pressurized oil on the big end rod bearing.  Well it has a dipper on the rod, so I'm pretty sure that it isn't pressurized.  The only thing I can see that the oil pump does is spray oil on the TRBs, I'm sure that the dipper is fine but I'm still a little irritated about it.

I would like to add an oil filter since I still worry that I missed some sand.  I'm not even sure the oiling system is needed and might only be good for picking up sand that would other wise sit in the bottom of the sump and do no harm.

Is there any reason that it would have pressure and a dipper on the big end bearing?   

Everything else / DIY Phase converters
« on: September 20, 2008, 02:23:03 PM »
Anyone got a good online source for the calculations/plans on phase converters made from 3 phase motors?

The place I work at part time uses a phase converter built by a guy.  It is a small unit based on a 1.5 HP motor, time delay, 2 start capacitors, and 2 contactors.  We need a larger unit and have a 20 HP motor for the purpose but the guy that knows about it health has declined and is not able provide info,  but I should know these things anyway.   

I did use google but was hoping someone here could point me to a good source.

Everything else / This creek is nagging me for a hydro setup.
« on: April 07, 2008, 05:37:15 AM »
I have a creek that runs about 30ft from our house, and it is constantly taunting me with how much energy might me there for the taking.

I am building a weir to get an average flow measurement but that will have to wait since it has been raining for days.  Also trying to get a measurement of the many foot drop I have but the GPS won't work up in the trees and I have no line of sight to make it easy any other way.  I might take all the various hoses and pipes around here and actually measure the pressure to find the drop.

I am currently estimating 100' drop with enough water to fill a 4" pipe about 1200' expen$ive, I meant long.

Using I nifty little calculator I found http://www.energyalternatives.ca/Downloads/MicroHydroCalc.exe  says that is about 2KW minus generator efficiency.   The same calculator shows a permanent magnet gen @53% and a AC brushless @ 58%, I thought some people here have said a ST is better than that.  ??

Now if I can untangle any red tape in my plan, and afford the pipe, ect ,ect.  My questions are:

Will a ST head (probably a ST-3) survive orientated with the shaft vertical?

Suggestions for something  better than a ST head for efficiency?  Please remember this isn't a NASA funded project.

Anyone know about power buyback laws in the US? I have been looking and can't find much info.  I don't want to net meter as I would end up giving them a large amount of power for free.  I could "burn it off" over the winter with electric heaters if I have no other option.   


Straight Vegetable Oil / Vegtable oil and the EPA, trying to take action.
« on: January 01, 2008, 07:10:59 PM »
Well, the EPA like most of the other three letter abbreviated goverment agencies I have problems finding words to describe with other than four letters.

They are non elected with no accountability to the public.  Write rules to force no one to brake the intent of the rules, with zero regard for results.

For example this Aptera manafacture(look at the vehicle specs) had a prototype vehicle getting 230MPG on diesel, but emission rules don't allow for it.  Now there are going to build a expensive hybrid.  At 230MPG the emissions per mile would be extremely low, but cookie cutter rules don't allow it.

The only way to change rules like this are to publicly make them look bad.  Thanks to sites like reddit, we can do that.  Here is a link reddit.com: Vegetable oil is illegal as vehicle fuel. EPA's gestapo type rules, Goodbye inventors.
vote it up and get the word out.

Everything else / Welding Stainless Exhaust Coupling. Advise Needed
« on: December 31, 2007, 05:56:39 PM »
So here are the pieces, All pieces are 304SS.  Made out of SS so I can weld to the SS flex coupling. 

I need to fill the inside of the tube with argon and weld as usual? any other advise to avoid warping?  How hot do I dare get SS? 

NOTE: I know the hole in the exhaust flange is not round, but it matches the engine's port.   

Listeroid Engines / Lubricating rockers and guides
« on: December 27, 2007, 05:23:45 AM »
So I finally got my first power outage, since I got the genset running anyway.   

I had started using heavy(gear) oil on the rockers after reading someone else was doing it.  The 40W goes away real fast.

I had heard that the oil around the valve springs should only cover the first spring because it would drink anymore than that.  It never did.  I sucked the extra oil out and realized that the valve guide on a GM-90 sticks up really high.  If that oil is to lube the guide, it should be to the top of it, or am I missing something?

Should I use the same gear oil there also?


I'm trying to estimate my total power draw, thinking about 3Kw, used 1.2 quarts an hour.  5 hour power outage.   :)     All the work started to pay off today.

Everything else / What make fiberglass insulation yellow?
« on: December 24, 2007, 08:20:03 PM »
So i insulated my expansion tank(it had a really horriable ring to it) with standard yellow fiberglass insulation, minus the paper of course.   After getting hot is started smelling really bad, a took it off after a couple of hours and it turned white where it had been the hottest.

A) is there anyway to remove it without cooking it.

B) How toxic is it?  ie what is my new expected lifespan?

C Other sources of insulation?


General Discussion / Starter motor repair
« on: December 10, 2007, 04:24:05 AM »
OK this can be fixed, but how.  This is the input to my starter, it has obviously been dragging, then shorted to the rotor and burn in half.

One end is solid copper bar the other end is fine copper strand, with some type of covering I always see in motors.

How would I repair this?  And what should I cover it with?

I don't know the names of materials used or the processes for this, someone want to learn me?


Listeroid Engines / Gibkey keyway offcenter in crankshaft, now what?
« on: December 01, 2007, 07:35:56 PM »
I marked the key with a marker and used a stone on the keyway in the flywheel until I had flat contact. The key was flat and square. The bottom of the keyway had quite a bow to it.  No problem, until I went to fit the key with the flywheel on the engine.

The keyway in the crankshaft is off center.  This makes the bottom of the keyway  out of square, so when I start to install the key it will only fit a inch in. 
It looks to be about 0 on one side with a .01" gap on the other.  Bad enough that if I turn the flywheel one way to the other, the outside end of the key goes from flat in the keyway to sticking up a good .04"

Do I file the top of the key crooked to match?  I can't fix the crankshaft, and the flywheel is fine. 

This sucks :'( 

I'm going to work on the other side until I get some advise. 

General Discussion / Piping exhaust outside, safe options needed
« on: November 24, 2007, 04:41:18 AM »
I'm getting ready to do the intake and exhaust plumbing. 
The intake is easy, but how does one run a hot exhaust pipe through a insulated wall?  Without catching anything on fire.

The wall is 4".Consisting of 1/2" OSB board, insulation, another 1/2OSB board, and siding in the future.


Listeroid Engines / Air filter: CFM and intake
« on: October 29, 2007, 03:28:50 AM »
I have been searching around here and decided maybe we could come up with a thread to address this.
I have a 16/1 bore x stroke 140 X 146.5  =137 in3  = .079 ft3 x 500 intakes per minute  = 39.8 CFM
I'm looking at a air cleaner that is rated at 60CFM  http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?Item=28-1655&UID=2007101813152280   
The output diameter is correct, but I don't know at what vacuum they are rated.  Plus the engine pulls the air in bigger more intermittent bursts than say a 3600rpm engine.  Use a bigger airbox?  Longer intake?

Also does anyone know the basics to setting up the lenght of the intake tube from the aircleaner/airbox to the intake port?  I know tuning is possiable, but I'm at a loss as to where to begin.

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