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Lister Based Generators / Rocketboy and Cujet Hurricane Irma commentary
« on: September 07, 2017, 05:19:29 PM »
Hurricane Irma is upon Florida in a few days.
Our prayers go out to them.
Rocketboy and Cujet have survived 3 hurricanes with Listeroid generators a-thumpin'
Perhaps they will think of this forum and check in again?

Lister Based Generators / Lister SR2 'Long Run' surplus genset being revived
« on: September 02, 2017, 05:01:42 AM »
I've owned this SR2 genset for many years, purchased during the Listeroid craze around 2007-or-8.
It was placed in the back yard, next to the old hot tub power connection box so I could back feed the house when the power goes out.
I still have the 25/2 Listeroid w/ST head in the garage, and it was used during the few and brief power outages over the ensuing years.
The SR2 and the Onan CCK 5.0 just sat.
A couple of years ago I sort of noticed the SR2 again, and decided to move it to my country property where the power does go out in the winter. Unfortunately it was stuck. I tore it down, one cylinder had rusted due to an open exhaust valve. So I ordered a cylinder kit, gaskets and a book from Gary @ D.E.S. He did not have rod bearings in stock at the time.
Come forward a couple of years...Oh Yeah? I better make sure the crank pins are not rusted, and check the Lister engine forum!
Fresh rod bearings from Gary, all the new parts installed, compression height set....What's all this sheet metal for?? How does it fit??
Untorque the heads, lift the cylinders, Install the cooling baffles and put it all back together, including all those little oil pipes and fuel return tubes!
This unit sits on a 10 gallon! lube oil sump base. The oil pump wouldn't pick up suction ( cranking with starter motor w/ decompressor on) so I periodically prelubed it with a squirt of oil from a Hyperlube bottle into the open oil gallery (oil filter is on crankcase door, squirt in hole when door is off)
Finally I removed the suction hose from the 40 gallon sump and blew compressed air thru it toward the oil pump. That unstuck the pump check valves and blew oil snot out the open side of the crankcase. Oil pressure soon built up on the next decompressed cranking session.
Then a new noise. The oil pressure switch turned on the electric fuel pump.
Now it was time to sort out the fuel system. Same problems. Fuel pump doesn't want to. Similar solution, blow compressed air thru it, then squeeze fuel thru it with the Hyperlube bottle and it's tapered tip stuck into the fuel suction hose.
I ended the evening with 20 PSI oil pressure when cranking with the decompressors on and one fuel injector bled to the injector nozzle.
Then it was dark and the bugs were out....

Lister Based Generators / Hurricane Harvey
« on: August 26, 2017, 03:43:51 AM »
Hurricane Harvey is expected to gain strength until it stalls out at the Texas coastline tonight, then continue to dump rain and slowly track the coastline Eastward.
This sounds like a job for "Super Lister" and it's sidekick "Changfa-Gen"
Who is powered up in the region (and still has internet)?
Who is living thru it now? Will we hear from them next week? This is expected to last longer than usual?
I have only had a few small power failures sense the 5 day outage in 2007;  The Great Northwet Ice Storm. So my Ashwamegh 25/2 hasn't run much.
I usually start an Onan CCK or NH initially, then start to consider the long term possibilities with the Listers. In every event after 2007, the outage has been 4 hours or less.

Lister Based Generators / I let her sit outside too long
« on: October 04, 2015, 11:05:58 PM »
I've owned an SR2 6.5Kw US Dept of Transportation, US Coast Guard Long Endurance generator set for a few years. It's been covered with a tarp in my back yard.
Well, this week I started on that project. I moved it to my rural place, put it in the shop, and checked it out. when I hit the starter I got a nice CLUNK!
So I stripped the top down, it's got a rusty cylinder, the one near the flywheel. The crank turns freely now, and the journal looks good. The inside of the engine also looks good.  I'll put the cylinder in a press and push the piston out the bottom to see what's salvage and what's scrap.
I figure to replace both rod bearings also the rings on the undamaged cylinder. The damaged cylinder and piston probably will be replaced, maybe as a power assembly kit w/ piston pin & rings?
disassemble the heads to check the valve stems and guide. Clean everything. The cooling fins were about due for a cleaning anyway.
This is entirely my fault, the genset was a runner when I bought it.
I'll be calling Dieselman soon enough...

Listeroid Engines / Anyone in the Group snowed in yet?
« on: October 30, 2011, 08:32:23 PM »
I see in the news that the Northeast USA is snowed in and at least 3 million people are without power.
Anyone in the group live there? How are you doing, are you running on Lister(oid) Power?

Lister Based Generators / Winter is coming (in the Northern Hemisphere)
« on: October 02, 2011, 05:10:16 AM »
Time to run your standby generators, and get any last minute repairs or upgrades done.
Storm season is upon us, and last year was a doozie. Then winter follows. When you are snowed in is not a good time to find out your genny won't run, and you're out of food.  :-[
I just inspected, pre-lubed and ran the 25/2, so my primary generator is all set. I've got some semi-portable Onan twins for back up and loaner to Mom etc. They get the service and test run next...
Don't forget to stock up on food, meds, stove fuel, or whatever you need in your life / location.

Listeroid Engines / Freeze Protection ?
« on: November 25, 2010, 03:34:17 PM »
What are you guys using to keep your engine from freezing in the cold temps of winter?
I've been covering my engine with carboard and plastic sheeting, then using a portable electric heater set @ 700 watts to keep it warm. With the garage doors closed and outside temps in the low 20s F. the engine jacket water outlet thermometer reads about 45 to 50.
Do any of you use a jacket water heater or heat tape wrapped around the cylinders or anything?
I'm looking for a more elegant solution. A carboard cabin over the engine takes a while to get stripped off when the power goes out.

General Discussion / Test Run your Stand-by Generators...
« on: October 01, 2010, 11:08:12 PM »
Climate scientists on the North American West Coast are predicting the most severe La Nina ocean current, and the coldest, wetest winter in recent memory.
If you live here you might want to consider getting ready, just in case they are right.
Besides, you should run your stand-by generator for fun just to be ready! Then check your tire chains and split some fire wood. Fill your gas cans and stock up the pantry.
It probably won't happen, but what the hey?? Being ready is a kind of hobby for Do It Yerselfers. ;)

Generators / OVERSPEED an ST-12?
« on: September 04, 2009, 03:48:28 AM »
I was wondering if I could run up the governor on my 25/2, which is de-rated to 735 RPM. Suppose I run it at 850? The voltage and cycles would be higher, then when I mow the lawn with my Black & Decker electric mower, the higher voltage would give more power? I suppose it's a universal motor and won't care what the frequency is?  ???

General Discussion / Kentucky Ice Ball
« on: February 01, 2009, 05:04:38 PM »
I see in the news there are over half a million homes without power. An Ice Storm has hit the region. :o
Is anyone from this forum in that area? How are you making out?
Listeroid Generator running?
Local observations?

Engines / Water treatment
« on: December 12, 2006, 03:42:56 AM »
Hi All;
Preventing corrosion in the waterside of your engine and cooling system is very important, but also very easy.
Your home hot water tank has a magnesium anode in it to protect the tank, and the water is still totally safe to drink.
If your engine cooling system is 'Closed Loop' with an expansion tank on the side, to prevent air bubbles from being entrained in the water flow, then you can stop internal corrosion with a magnesium anode.
Here's a link to the Elysator company:
This site explains how it works in any closed loop system. The technology is not new, and I don't think it's patentable.
If you include a 'Cyclonic' swirling tank with a gentle flow rate, the scale cleaned out of your system will settle in the bottom where it could be drained from a low point ball valve.
Elysator makes them for megabux, but they look like a propane bottle to me, with tangent water inlet and outlet, anode inside, bottom drain and top air vent.
The engine and boiler components I've seen that were protected by this technology were in great shape, some were pretty old too.
Make sure the anode has good electric conductivity to the engine or radiator or the cyclonic tank so it will work.

Listeroid Engines / Cam Idler Gear Problems in Twins, and dry IP cam
« on: March 20, 2006, 06:04:55 AM »
I moved some of this over from 'single vs twin'
Some people think the Twins have more cam gear train failures than singles. I was looking at the original Lister manual, My ASHWAMEGH, and Rocketboy's pictures of his LOVSON.
Cujet was talking about poor lubrication to the left side injector pump cam lobe, and I mentioned my oil system mod to oil it.
"I think the oil pump has plenty of capacity, because the oil distribution manifold (above the crankcase door) has pads for five oil discharge tubes. My engine only uses three (one for each main bearing) the other two were originally used by Lister to fill oil troughs for the con rod dippers. On Rocketboys Lister pages you can see a picture in his crankcase with two tubes going straight down. These must be unused as trough fillers, because his sump does not appear to have troughs. It does unload the oil pump though. I wonder if the Ashwamegh cam gear failures are caused by oil pump overload, because these two tubes are not drilled / installed, so the oil pump has 40% less cross section of discharge area?"
  I think this could cause a high pressure pulse on the cam gear train, particularly when the oil is cold. The solution would be to add a bypass oil filter on the oil pump discharge, and put a control orifice in the filter inlet. The filter discharge would then be directed at the 'dry running' left side IP cam. That would cure two problems with one mod.
I got a Motor guard toilet paper filter for this, and my next step is to plumb it in with an oil gauge that is sensitive enough to show the oil pump pressure spikes.
Scott E

General Discussion / Super bowl
« on: February 06, 2006, 04:07:22 AM »
Both teams played great, but the Officials! What junior high did they come from? >:(

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Russel Newbery Marine Engine
« on: January 29, 2006, 03:21:48 PM »
Sure looks like the Rolls Royce of Listers?

Listeroid Engines / THE ENGINE ROOM
« on: January 10, 2006, 06:47:24 AM »
   This new topic is about the ideal ENGINE ROOM.
Please share your ideas so we can all build better power plants.
   I just picked up a free 250 gallon outside home heating oil tank. It is pretty rusty on the outside, but looks solid. If it passes inspection I'll paint it up nice and use it for the outside fuel STORAGE TANK, Someday i could get a transfer pump and filter to move fuel to the DAY TANK. Meanwhile I could just put the DAY TANK under the STORAGE TANK valve to fill it up.
The DAY TANK is an old 6 gallon twin hose Johnson outboard tank, which will have both the supply and return lines, so plumbing is easy, and the fire / spill potential is less than using from the 250 gallon tank.
   I think others before have mentioned that these engines should not be up against a wall. My corner of the groj that I call the engine room did place the left end of the crankshaft about 3 inches from the wall. NOT GOOD I couldn't even take the flywheel off without dismounting the engine frome the generator frame.
    I have an automotive radiator for cooling, But I've seen those old cast iron home heat radiators, Iv'e just gotta have those! they look like LISTER all over! Especially in Hunter green.
You can see my set up in the coppermine gallery (before I took it apart for sand removal and a sub-frame upgrade)
    A cheap secure engine room could be built out of a 20 foot intermodal shipping container. They do not cost much. When you are not around you could lock the doors up tight. Being made of steel,(with a wood floor) you could weld in the exhaust pipe mounts, cooling lines & wire penetrations etc. The engine beds could span the wood and connect to the steel side frames...? Or be isolated? If you built everything on the inside it could be portable ;D
Scott E

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