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Topics - rcavictim

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Petteroids / Need help to set speed on Petter BA1
« on: November 07, 2011, 05:45:56 AM »
I recently acquired a small 3 kW 'ish power plant employing an 1800 RPM head directly driven by a Petter BA1 rated at 6.5 HP.  It is running about 5 Hz shy of 60 and the output voltage is on the low side also.  I need to bump up the speed but cannot figure out how to.  The governor and rack are all hidden inside the aluminum of the crankcase on this engine.  There is an external solenoid that slams the visible outer rack control mechanism from off to full on when the start button is engaged.  This mechanism does not move beyond these two extremes during operation.

The engine appears to be running very well, just needs a slightly faster governor setting.

If anyone has a service manual that they could share in e-mailable format such as a .pdf that would be very appreciated.  Please send it to rcavictim (at) gmail (dot) com.  Thank you in advance for any assitance.


Changfa Engines / JiangDong 175A main bearing failure
« on: January 24, 2010, 10:17:57 PM »
I spent last evening tearing into my JD175.  The small (timing end) crank main bearing (6209), has apparently been operating in a blown-up condition for quite some time making a shaking vibration that had me totally scratching my head.  The symptoms were made fuzzy because I also have a massive 180 lb. flywheel spinning on the same frame and the vibration occurred at a beat frequency between the big flywheel and the engine flywheel speeds and noticeable only at certain rpm's.  Last time I ran it it suddenly got a lot worse so I decided it was time to shut 'er down and tear into it.  At least four balls appear to have disintegrated taking out the rotating spider-carrier which was shredded and strewn about. Shrapnel was scattered all over inside the crankcase.   Now I know what was causing a curious mystery vibration!  My added neo sump magnet caught some of it.  My added full-flow spin on canister oil filter between the oil pump and the rest of the engine engiine has provided a clean supply of lube oil all along. These two DIY add-ons likely saved the engine from fatal damage given that I continued to run it for many hours after the initial bearing failure. No other damage that I can see.  Crank pin and lower rod bearing are spotless.  Must pickup a new bearing on Monday and get this little genset back in operating condition.

Since JD has a reputation for failures of their poor quality Chinese bearings, not using outsourced quality bearings like is done by Changfa, I should also replace the larger flywheel side ball bearing but I am dirt poor and that one may break the budget.  However, now is the time to get at it easy though since I now have the crankshaft out of the engine.

General Discussion / What happened to Altopro?
« on: September 14, 2009, 04:47:55 AM »
Anyone heard from Pat at Altopro lately?  He hasn't had a thing on ebay for a very long time and isn't answering email.

Everything else / Gassification primer
« on: July 19, 2009, 12:28:03 PM »
I found this very informative 3-part series on youtube explaining gassification.  I know some of you here are interested in this technology.  Enjoy.


General Discussion / Burnt toast, man dies of electrocution on train
« on: July 08, 2009, 11:27:59 AM »
Not for the weak of heart.

Poor bastard only went up on the roof of the train for a smoke.  After he gets a light you can see him smoking.   :-\


Generators / Question about induction generators
« on: January 19, 2009, 08:05:38 PM »
Hopefully this will be seen by Doug and others who are more knowledgeable in such matters than I.  In my research of the available literature discussing the AC induction motor used as a generating alternator by adding resonating capacitors in parallel with the motor's stator pole windings I have come to understand that ther resultant 'generator' suffers poor voltage regulation and although acceptable as a power supply for mostly resistive loads like light bulbs (the old fashioned Edison kind) and resistance heaters, perform poorly trying to start motors and operate other inductive loads.

So my question is......
Can the reluctance of the induction generator to start an inductive load be significatly improved by oversizing the induction generator.  For example, I have recently acquired a 100 HP, 3550 RPM, 3-phase, 575 volt induction motor and gravity concentrator.  IF the appropriate resonating capacitors were attached and the unit spun up would it provide acceptable motor starting ability to loads that represented only a small fraction of it's very large nameplate capacity, say up to 10 kW from a 75 kW watt induction generator?

Why?  Well, I have a need for a 10-12 kW, 3-phase AC head for my Changfa 1115 engine and I have this big induction motor that I may not end up converting into a PM alternator for my wind turbine.  I have just discovered that this motor has excellent bearings and is in fine operating condition having spun it up a few days ago in the shop.  To make it into an idea PM alternator I must remove the stator copper and re-wind the thing with more poles to reduce the speed.  I do not possess the oven or otherwise means of baking the stator to burn off the varnish to allow removal of the wire without overheating the laminations and destroying the inter-lamination insulation system.  I have read in motor service books that a temperature controlled oven bake around 350F for several hours (from memory) is necessary for this process.

It would be difficult for me to transport this stator core to a commercial re-wind shop to have this process done.

I am just, as usual struggling to determine the best uses for hardware at hand to solve hardware needs that have without spending money.

Saw on the 6 o'clock alleged news tonight that the North Eastern US got really clobbered with an ice storm and many will be without power due mostly to downed trees taking down the distribution lines for several days.  Pretty serious emergency I heard. 

Anyone here living in the affected region and enjoying the comfort of forethought and preparedness?

Other Slow Speed Diesels / 1935 cooper bessemer diesel 35 hp on ebay
« on: September 28, 2008, 06:16:01 AM »
Wow! Not my auction etc.

ebay auction here   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140270105590

Location: Poughkeepsie, New York, United States

description from the auction...
"this is the mother to smaller hit and miss engines.fly wheel are just shy of 6 feet, unit is 12 feet long weight is about 9000 lbs.heres what i no about it .the ser # 39774  9 3/4 x 16 i assume thats the bore and stroke, type gaod fuel is diesel inside looks like new and turns very free until you hit the compression.its air start but my shop compressor would not turn it over almost but i need more volume i was told its 35 horse power i have the lid.the engine has been inside since i have it i need the money and the room. but its to nice to scrap i can not do that. and its to nice to put outside for the art of it. so the starting price is scrap value 650.00 dollars "

Everything else / Big flywheel score!
« on: September 27, 2008, 10:16:30 PM »
My buddy with the farm scrapyard just recently cut up an identical pair of IHC farm machinery thingies that each contained a large 33" OD x 5" wide, spoked, cast iron flywheel, clutch in the middle of the flywheel sitting on the high speed shaft of a single stage 7-1/2:1 gearbox.  From the gearbox slow speed shaft is a really huge crank throw made of cast steel.  The stroke would be about 3 feet or so. The other side of the crank throw has a 90 degree 1:1 angle drive gearbox of very heavy duty specifications.  My guess is the propulsion came through the angle gearbox to run something modulated by the crank con-rod, and the big step-up gearbox was there to store energy in the massive flywheel.  The clutch is there to stop parts from breaking if the path of the reciprocating con-rod became jammed.

Unfortunately I cannot post pictures at this time.  I have two identical flywheels, two 7-1/2:1 gearboxes and two 90 degree unity gain gearboxes as described.  Also have the two crankshafts and con rods with the load end cut off each.  I'll bet these flywheels weigh 300 lbs each.   8)

I may use one of the gearbox sets in my wind turbine.  The other pair will become replacement spares and the flywheels are available for a possible down the road DIY slow speed engine proyect.  I would love to have a 10 HP liquid cooled single that runs at about 300 RPM!

Everything else / Looking for a Chevy Geo Metro
« on: May 23, 2008, 05:44:13 AM »
OK, I'm officially on the hunt for a Geo Metro with a blown engine/melted powertrain that is otherwise in nice shape.  Gonna build me a diesel electric hybrid to save the planet.

Since this is a non-profit enterprise a donation would be gratefully accepted.  I could scrape up a little ca$h if need be.

Let's call upon our Ontario membership first to come to the call.  I am near Shelburne so Toronto to Barrie and Mount Forest to Orangeville to Alliston is a doable tow-home-from area for me.  In fact if you can limp it here I'll give you a free ride home and free lunch.  Who says there's no free lunch!?   :D

If you brother stationary diesel engine sleuths could re-calibrate your noses for me and be on the lookout for such a device I would appreciate it immensely.

Talk about humble.  I waited patiently until post #1453 to ask for a really big favor!   ;)

Everything else / Big Changfa - Small Car?
« on: May 12, 2008, 02:36:41 PM »
I just introduced the idea I was mulling over of possibly installing a Changfa 1115 engine into a superlight compact car like a geoMetro to try to get a very fuel miserly vehicle perhaps achieving a laudable goal near 100MPG.  This appeared here.  http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=3456.15

Not wishing to OT that thread I have moved the discussion here beginning with the two posts on this subject now in play.  Please feel free to join this discussion.


Speaking of oil.  My new 1115 has about 30 hours on it now started with SAE#30 and I checked the dipstick today.  the oil is still a clean golden color.  Fantastic!  The book said do first change at 100 hrs, but I plan to do one very soon and clean the sump magnet that I put in during the initial inspection prior to first smoke.  This engine broke in well and makes no exhaust smoke.  I am quite impressed and am thinking of buying a second 1115.  I'm even thinking of putting one in a light compact car like a Geo Metro.  How about 100 MPG and capable of highway speed.  I'm thinking it could do this!


RMChambers replied:

I think if you could address the cooling needs, the mounting and transmission of engine power to transmission that you could probably do this fairly easily.  I bet it would have a very distinctive sound as it went down the road.

I'd love to see it, it would be like the Changzuki guy only kicking it up a notch!  and unlike the bike, you could stay dry inside as you drove along in the rain.

It would be EMP proof for the SHTF folks - yet another selling point.

Go for it!


Other Fuels / Hydraulic oil as fuel - anyone using it?
« on: April 30, 2008, 05:44:11 PM »
I may have access to a couple hundred gallons or more of hydraulic oil.  If this makes a good fuel for a small diesel I will persue it.  Anyone have anything to report?

I have a large 20 HP, 1175 RPM 3-phase induction motor (6 pole) that I would like to use as a AC gen head for a wind turbine.  The attraction is that it is a much slower shaft speed than 1800 and also that it is high voltage, 600 volts.  That means I can run long low er cost light gauge copper wires to this baby since the motor dataplate says 20 amps per leg current rating.

Princess Auto just had a half price sale on neodemium magnets, 1/8" thick x 3/4 inch diameter at half price ($2.22 for a 3 pack vs $4.49 regular price).  These ae very strong, maybe N45? (already drew blood) and nicely nickel plated. They stack nicely to make cylinder magnets any length you want.  I have done some internet research and it appears this 'sale' price is competitive with good pricing in the US and I don't have to pay shipping and bend over fees at the bordeer which for us poor Canadians usually makes anything we order from the US cost us double the price after the dust settles.  >:(

I have acquired enough magnets to place 6 rows of stacked magnet cylinders (6 magnets long each or 3/4" x 3/4 inch) in row lengths of 10 cylinders with 1 inch spacing (1/4 inch space between magnet cylinders in the row).  That is a total of 360 magnets.  I can arrange the polarity of each row as one counts around the perifery, N-S-N-S-N-S.

I have not yet pulled the armature out of this completely sealed 20 HP motor so have just guessed at the rotor size in order to take advantage of the magnet sale.

Comments and any experience doing such a induction motor conversion would be appreciated.

If this is a non starter I have enough magnets to satisfy my curiosity trying to make a over unity magnet motor, and if THAT DOESN'T work.....I'll have enough magnets to pull the door off my fridge!   ;D  You walk by the fridge, a bit too close and if you have keys in your pocket you get impaled against the door.   :D

The girl at the checkout asked what I was going to do do with so many magnets.  I told her I was hoping to attract someone of the opposite polarity.  ;D

Boy, you gotta wonder how a company who's name 'If' is on the tip of everyone's lips all the world wide with not only product association, but also being the only supplier of 'andsorbuts' cannot seem to make any headway in sales.  Youv'e heard this yourself when someome talks about andsorbuts.  They ALWAYS take the effort to specify not to accept any that were made by If.

So is it just that folks don't want to purchase andsorbuts, or is it that the only company making them makes really crappy ones?   ???

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