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Topics - getterdone

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Things I want to Buy / governor weights
« on: May 15, 2014, 01:22:51 PM »
does anyone have a set of governor weights for a 6/1 that they might sell?
the ones suppled with my D.E.S. are junk.

Listeroid Engines / things to know when going through a listroid
« on: March 14, 2014, 01:14:08 PM »
this is my second rebuild of a listroid . the first was about 12 years ago. a couple of things are hard to find without spending alot of time looking through the forum,are :head bolt tork, i found 165#'s  next rod bearing clearance .003, next cylinder squash [clearance] .045 to .055. this is all for the 6/1 listroid.
the way to do this i read is to, with shims to make up for the thickness of the  head., tork the head bolts down to 165# ? and lay a straight edge across the top add shims or remove shims until piston just touches ., the head gasket gives you the .045 to .055 clearance.
could all of these things  be put in the wall of knowledge as are the governor springs?
correct any thing that is wrong of course. 
getting old i forgot how i did my first one. in saying that it has over 8000hrs on it with only a timing gear and injection pump replaced.
but that is not the topic here as is finding the information in a easy access place all together on this forum. 

Listeroid Engines / injector cleaning problem on 6/1 listroid
« on: June 11, 2012, 11:26:00 PM »
my injector started getting sticky because i burn veggy oil.  every 4months i have taken it off and clean , i take it apart clean all the pieces put it back togeather and install it back in place.
this time i cant get it to govern right. it will run away.
can any one tell me which way should the plunger rod should be in relation with the fuel inlet hole.
i've tried it both ways with no luck.
one way makes the rack work backwards.
i took it apart and changed it i know 5 times and i'm stumped.
i ordered a new one and will have it in a few days but it makes no sence to me why it won't work
one thing i did different was to pull the plunger [the adj shaft with the roller on it] that you adjust the timing with. and clean it off.
another thing that was different , the check valve seat came out .  that being said there is threads on the seat side of this. machined surface on the other end with a seal in between.
i know the two machined surfaces go togeather and the check valve with its seat on top of that then spring and lastly the fitting. am i right?
hope this makes sense.
what could be the problem? could the rack moved a tooth or something? i have never taken the rack apart, i dont know how you would get it apart.
i've got Georges cd but it dont show how to dissamble and reacemble the thing.
thanks for any help i can get. john

Generators / voltage regulator for a 24v altanator
« on: July 31, 2011, 12:53:39 PM »
has anyone built an adjustable regulator for an 24v alternator?
i was thinking 30 to 31volts.
to be used for equalizing batteries

Things I want to Buy / timing gear bolt
« on: July 26, 2011, 03:19:00 PM »
i  replaced my timing gear and noticed that my new gear does not mesh with the cam gear as good as i think it should.
I under stand that a replacement bolt i s made to help in this matter.
do i understand this correctly or did I read it wrong.
If this is so then i need one. soon!
where can i buy one? i don't want to spend $20.00 for shipping., ha!

Things I want to Buy / overhall kit from Central Maine Diesel
« on: July 26, 2011, 01:35:42 PM »
has anyone bought the overhaul kit from Central Main Diesel ?
i was wondering if the price is worth it or not?
and if the parts fit well.,quality ? etc.........

Other Slow Speed Diesels / petter mod b1a
« on: July 24, 2011, 06:36:41 PM »
i decided to get my 10hp air cooled b1a petter going again. just in case i need some hp to run something.
i took the tank off, and cleaned the biodiesel out of it.
i took the fuel system all apart and cleaned everything.
put it all back togeather and put fresh diesel in it and tried to cranh it up.
i got wore out and had to go inside to get cooled off.
when i was building my house,i was using this engine to charge batteries for my power.
it got to where i could not start it so i quit using it. pushed it into the barn, and would fix it latter.
well.,latter is now.
i know whats the matter with it. when i was tring to crank it up a bunch of carbin puked out of the exaust.
i really don't want to pull the head.[but i will if i have to]
i think i will use a gas pony motor to start it and if this works i will mist some water in the intake to steam clean the combustain chamber.
wish me luck............

Engines / crank case vent
« on: July 21, 2011, 05:20:48 PM »
i am off grid  and in the summer i run my Lister most nights to keep batt. charged and a/c working. during the day my solar panels do the job.
my engine is leaking oil and making a mess. i was wondering if others had this problem?
i think my crank case vent isn't working properly.
so..... i thought I'd try to make a improved model out of a water ck valve.
i made a plate and tapped a half inch hole in the center screwed a shirt nipple in that and put the ck valve on that.
worked fine until the flapper got oily. then quit.
had to remove the new check valve and put the original back in place, so i could use the engine'
well it was worth a try.  i might try to grind some weight off the flapper.
any comments?

Engines / using a gas hot water heater tank to cool lister
« on: August 20, 2007, 02:04:10 AM »
has any one used a gas hot water heater tank; to cool the lister; also to make hot water? my lister has a thermostat with bypass. i would weld plates with pipe nipples, where the heat from the fire,hot gas normally goes through the water heater. add a burp tank to this,for expansion. i also wanted to run the exaust through another gas water heater,hook both water sources together with then a batch solar heater to supply my hot water needs. a circulating pump to take the heated water to and from my house. i thought i'd run this by you folks to see what you'all think.

Engines / injector/return line
« on: March 07, 2007, 05:32:17 AM »
need some information regarding the injector return line. does this return line, the plastic one [on mine anyway] need to be hooked up? it makes it a little more difficult if i have to use it on wvo conversion. the way i see it you would have to have a switching valve here also. any way its in the way to put the heating element in place. i havent seen any pictures of the conversion's or seen were any one has talked about this. the way i see it is it's there just to get air out of the line. am i correct with this thinking? help please!

Engines / gaskets/seals for 6/1
« on: January 15, 2007, 05:04:23 AM »
well, take your engine apart your self to clean casting sand. i wont disclose how much i paid to have this done. didn't think i had the time. well guess what happened after 140hours of run time? the first word that comes to mind sucker another. last but not least never,never again will this happen to me. any way thank God, that one crank bearing was all that was ruined. by the way crank bearings cost 70some odd $ .                                                                      now, i'm asking for some help, from all of you. could you point me in the right direction to buy a gasket set and also the crank oil seals? i also need to know how to load the tapered crank bearings. any one that takes pitty on me and can supply me with this info , this would be nice!  email or post or both

Waste Vegetable Oil / new 6hp water cooled lister
« on: July 19, 2006, 11:51:33 PM »
a frend of mine wants to sell me his lister. it was bought from i believe Joel Koch outof portland or. its a vidhata. basant products inda,  c46 foundry,  nagar,agra.  it has a pre ign. chamber.  my question is are thease as good as they get?  i need it for charging batteries when the wind dont blow. crank inspection plate was romoved and my frend says it is as clean as can be also it has timken bearings on crank. all parts are forged .  any thing i should know would be helpful.

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