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I'm planing a move and won't be needing my generator where I'm going. So here it is.

About 400 hours. Runs well. 16/1 engine with st generator head (new bearings)  Includes all the other parts to make it go including radiator, cooling lines, coolant pump, fan, overheat shutdown system, exhaust etc.It's mounted on huge steel I beams. You can see it on YouTube under rocketboy911 videos called listeroid power station. It has been improved since the vid was made. It will fit thru a 48 inch wide opening.

Asking $4500 but will consider trades offers.. I can forklift it onto your truck or trailer.

Thanks for reading,,


Generators / Yikes!!! Bearing failure!
« on: September 11, 2008, 01:00:30 AM »
My ST-12 head is about 4 years old and has about 400 hours on it. The bearings have always been audible at low rpm but quiet running.

I just moved my Genset into its new home, a  small wooden shed. Where restarting it, I was greeted with a horrible racket.

The noise screamed like a 30 HP blower in a factory, made my ears ring and drowns out the noise of the Lister.

When hand turning the genny, the noise was obviously coming from the bearing under the drive pulley.

So out it came, apart for the first time and voila...stuck big time. No way this thing would be an easy job.

It took all day making parts to form a bearing puller to get the brush side bearing out. Finally it gave up and popped out. The local bearing shop had nice German sealed bearings in stock for $45/each. It went together quickly and now runs quiet as a mouse. Feels like spinning a hot ear of corn on a stick of butter.

An interesting note is the bearing at the brush end, the smaller of the two, run warm, about 130 deg F while the drive bearing runs at ambient temp.

Suppose thats just the way it gonna be. ::)

Listeroid Engines / Lovson - Power Anand Divorce!
« on: March 30, 2008, 03:30:19 PM »
Jusy got a note from Atul Patal. He is no longer building engines for Lovson. Don't know why, but if you want his proven customer service, I'd recommend buying your Lister stuff directly from Power Anand.

Good luck to all and pray for no hurricanes!

Bob (I am not a paid spokesperson or compensated by poweranand, just a happy customer)

Here are preliminary notes from the Power Anand Electric Starter kit.

First, This thing is HEAVY. If you order one, you should find someone local ordering an engine and piggy back your order with them to reduce shipping costs. I did this and cost from Mumbai to Florida worked out to be $272.

The kit included two new Stover type flywheels and are identical to the ones on my 850 RPM 16/2 except one flywheel has a nicely machined ring gear bolted to it using about 8 bolts. A guy with some talent could buy just the ring gear and add it to his existing 20" stover flywheel (or so I think) and saved massively in cost and shipping.

An important note here is that these flywheels don't have counter weights so I had to add weights for use on my non-counter weighted 6/1.

Power Anand also makes a kit for twin cylinder engines which includes the above mentioned flywheels and othert parts.

The kit also includes a new large 12 volt starter, two beefy cast iron brackets, an electrical junction box, and hardware. One of the cast iron brackets completely replaces the cranks case cover plate, and includes a new breather.

An important note here is that the starter mounting system does not use the idler gear bolt for strength as other starter setups do. All attachment is via the studs that hold the crankcase cover on.

The other cast iron bracket bolts to the cover plate, and the starter attaches to this plate with three bolts.

The starter has a good bit of power and grunts through the first compression stroke, and subsequent compression strokes are easily handled. You can also use the compression release and motor the engine at a good clip for pump priming etc. I estimate it spins the engine at over 200-300 RPM.

Ther wiring is simple and you will need to provide some sort of battery recharging to keep your starter battery full.

So far, two 2.5 lb cast lead weigts have done wonders for reducing vibration on my 6/1 with more balancing coming. As these flywheels are good for higher rpm, I increased the engine revs to 730 RPM to spin the gen head at 1800. This is because the flywheels are 20" in diameter, vs the original at 23.5"

I don't know if Anand makes a counter weighted setup for single cylinder engines, you'll need to talk to Atul about that. Also, I don't know what the cost for either setup is.

It is a simple, sturdy system I expect no problems with it.

Listeroid Engines / My wife says I look like a dork!
« on: January 11, 2008, 03:20:03 AM »

(Camerman CUJET)

More coming on the electric start kit from Power Anand


Just got these in the mail from Atul at Power Anand. He sent them for eval and all are beautiful .I especially like the engine cover plate!
This guy REALLY knows how to take care of his customers!

Check out his new idler gear. All Anands engines have these now. Very nice quality!

New oil pump for Twins. Again, superb quality!

Whats not to like about this new cast iron cover!

New liquid filled damped oil pressure gauge. Attaced to the new oil pump and engine running.
Very large size and easy to read from a distance. About 5" diameter.


Listeroid Engines / The sad truth about idler gear falures.
« on: June 09, 2006, 09:13:43 PM »
The failures are caused by two things, both known by the Indians.

1. The gear casting quality is (was) lousy causing fatigue failures usually near the timing marks.

2. The real bummer is that many many  engine cases had the big hole (idler gear shaft boss) in the case machined  "not straight" so the idler gear sits at an angle. The only fix is to toss the case and get one with a straight hole (or re-bore and sleeve etc). It's a bummer but it's a known defect in many listeroids.

I was told by a maufacturer the gear will fail by 400 hours if it's got a crooked hole. The teeth wear rapidly to a point and then bang.


Listeroid Engines / 6/1 run in experience...long...blabbering rant...
« on: March 28, 2006, 02:21:04 PM »

I've finished the 30 hour run-in period and have many comments you might be interested in.

Initial startup was difficult as I couldn't get fuel to pump thru the pump. Even with a squeeze bulb helping, i finaly needed to unscrew the delivery valve from the top of the pump to get the thing to pump. Once pumping the rest of the fuelline priming was easy and it fired right up.

I'm using some 40 wt aircraft oil I had spare for this initial cleaning and will change to heavey duty diesel oil soon for additional time. With the oil filter, I expect to make the next oil change at 100 hours followed by 500 hour intervals.

The governer works ok but needs some help. I'm getting a 6 Hz spread from no load to full load. I can narrow that to 3 Hz with a different spring. The response is very slow due to the large flywheels and low RPM. I see overshoots to 67 Hz when dropping a large load.

THe engine needed a linkage mod as did my 16/2 to get more fuel into the thing for better overload response. This helped a bit and now it make big puffs of black smoke when accelerating under heavy!

Absolutely no oil leaks due to the vacum breather design! Pleanty of blow by however. I'm hoping this will subside as it breaks in. I might plumb these vapors into the intake...

The engine will make no more that 4080 watts with full rack and lots of smoke. It's comfortalbe at 3500 watts with small smoke and loafs effortlessly at 2500 watts. I hope to see a 10% improvment after 250 hours as it breaks in. The thing always has a tiny bit of visible smoke but I'm working on it.

This engine ran quieter with the changeover valve screwed in and clanged a bit with it out. I started messing around with the timing and have improved it by retarding it a bit. In general, retarding it makes less clang but more smoke. I'm close to a sweet spot..still fiddling.

The radaitor of choice this go-round is a 1979 Honda goldwing GL-1100 unit. Got it on eBay for $6 plus $12 shipping. The fan works well and after much messing around, it now cools properly.The lower cylinder jacket opening was largely blocked by casting flash and restricting the water flow. This mainifested itself as an excessive temperature spread beteween the inlet and outlet of the radiator. I was seeing 105 deg F spread at 3000 watts (200 deg into radiator and 95 deg return). Obviously this was un-sat and needed some work. After opening up the port with a die grinder things got a lot better. Also, rasing the radiator higher increased the flow rate. Currently the bottom of the radiator is 1" higher than the upper cylinder head water fitting. This is giving me a personally desirable 50 deg F spread from top to bottom. I see 180 deg F coming out of the head and 130 deg F returning from the radiator. This is with a 3000 watt load, 70 deg air temp and the fan running at 3 amps (75% power). It seems like it should do the job in Florida summer heat so the radiator choice seems adequate, tho barely.

The water neck flange fittings were tapped using a worn out tap so I could'nt get the screwed in fittings to stop leaking, especially under the pressue of 200 deg F. I gave up and JB welded them into the cast water neck flanges. Now no leaks, and all the water stays inside the engine with the radiator cap installed and the coolant system fully pressurized.

The NAPA belt needed tightening once during this 30 hour period as expected. It runs with little vibration or shake and is overall much smoother than the 16/2 setup. I think this is due to the fact I used large chunks of steel to mount the gen head.

The gen head has an AVR. The light flicker seems to be less than before even the the engine is turning sower than the 16/2 setup. I attribute this to the AVR. As the gen head loadsup  and the RPM falls a bit, the voltage of the gen head drops enuf that the AVR is no longer in a regultaing mode and the generator is humping as hard as it can to keep up. In this mode, light flicker is quite noticable. I will experiment with reconnecting thee had using the 50 hz coils.This will produce more voltage across the RPM range and keep the regulator regulating. Will report findings later.


Listeroid Engines / 6/1 genset runing video
« on: March 25, 2006, 02:14:18 PM »
Hi all,

Here is a video of the beast running during cooling system test.

It's big... 6 MB so it will take a while with dial up!

I'm just starting to write new pages on the rocketboy website for the series 2 lister genset. More coming!



Listeroid Engines / 6/1 Genset almost done!
« on: March 16, 2006, 09:51:54 PM »
I posted more pics on Coppermine....

Lister Based Generators / Just got my ST head for the new project...
« on: March 02, 2006, 02:25:06 PM »
$600 delivered to my house with a pulley and SK bushing. Super quality and good support from Eric Lyons at Rocky Mountain Power Source. Today it gets the copper paint treament to match the rest of the GEN SET!

 Brush block... nice quality here as well...

Listeroid Engines / How to post a picture in this forum...
« on: February 23, 2006, 01:19:00 AM »
Here is how it's done...

Step one. upload the picture to coppermine
Step two. goto coppermine and click on your picture so  as to make it appear on your screen.
Step three. Right click on the picture and select "properties"
Step four. Find the pictures address(URL) and highlight it by click/dragging your mouse  from the beginning of the addresss to the end. After you have highlighted it, copy it to the clipboard by pressing CTRL  and C on your keyboard
Step five. Make your finest post on this forum.
Whilst typing your description and comments in the main text box, press the little button above the text box that looks like a small painting (insert image).
This will cause the HTML tags IMG to appear
Carefully between these two IMG tags(feel free to insert a space between the square brackets to see it easier), click to place your mouse cursor.
Last step. presst CTRL + V to pasted the previously copied address (URL)

If you did it right, the address will be inserted between the IMG tags. Press preview to see if you succeeded!

Kepp trying and good luck.


Listeroid Engines / GTC engine teardown and commnets
« on: February 20, 2006, 02:10:38 PM »
I've finished tearing this  little GTC 6/1 apart and anm starting to re-assemble it. Here are some interesting comments as it goes...

Cranks appeared to not have ever been polished. The rod bearing was trashed and the Rod bearing journal was chewed up. This seemed to be caused by the clutz not once but three times screwing in the dipper too far and marring the crank. The engine was then broken in with a mixute of stink oil and sand. The crank was saved by polishing and measured 2.489" when done and was round and true. The rod went back on with a new bearing and two shims on each side to give a clearance of .003". So far so good.

Casting quality of cam housing sucks. I think all do but...

The cam gear is cast but has no punch marks so it w go back together and we'll see how it lasts.

The gib keys came out ok using CUJETS gib key puller. cool tool bubba...

The thing was painted with two layers of green stink paint over lots of white stink filler. I ground some off but found  a sandblaster loaded with home depot blasting sand exploded the stuff off in minutes leaving a nice paintable finish. The casting was not too bad and painted up nicely with some PPG DFLF primer followed by graphite ureathane enamel with copper colored trim. Photos coming soon.

Over half of the  fastners where SAE coarse and I replaced them with new gold cad plated parts from Napa. This included the head nuts. The nuts that attach he TRB and cam housings are  BSW (?) and are sent out for cad plating.

New seals and gaskets should make a nice little engine. We're still trying to fing a treatment (wear coating) for the cylinder walls that is compatible with the rings, but till then it goes together stock.

Had three paper gaskets under the cylinder and three on eash side cover for crankshaft endplay.

Powder coated alot of the parts using my cheapo coating unit from Harbor Freight. Works great. Did the valve cover, intake maniforld, engine covers, pushrods etc. Will paint flywheels copper color to boot!

Finally realized what really causes oil slobbering as I did it (both engines). One must fill the oil level quite high in the head to get oil up to the top of the valve guides. Any less and no oil get on the stems and your valves wear out. So when you fill it up real good and shut it down, the oil leaks by the exhaust valve stem, into the muffler and POOP, black oil everywhere when you crank it up. Soulution, fill it up and never shut it down. Valves last forever.... No slobberng after a  cooldown means not enuf oil was in the head. IMHO.

RAJKTOT head looks good tho needs a valve job. Seat appears to be machine cut only

Neither tappet wold rotate. CUJET made a grinder and re-faced them on his lathe. Very pretty and shiney now. One was .008" and the other .0025" from ture. Now both are VERY true.

Will post phots soon......


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