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Topics - bitsnpieces1

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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / 12/1 giveaway
« on: May 27, 2011, 08:11:56 PM »
  I have a Power Line 12/1 1000rpm I purchased several years ago to go over and make into a generator set.  My back has been bad for about 13 years now and it's obvious that I won't be able to get to it.  This one will need to be gone through for sand, voids (flywheels), idler gear and rocker arms plus what ever has degraded during the sit time.  It includes the engine, muffler, flat belt pulley and manual/tools set.  If you can pull up in front of my carport and load it up and drive away, it's yours.  I want to see it go to a home where it can do some work.  I'm in North Central Florida. 

Everything else / Turpentine additive for VO
« on: December 17, 2007, 02:45:15 PM »
  I am considering running a Listeroid on SVO with all renewable liquids.  Mention has been made about using Acetone to thin the viscosity of the VO to get better burn of the fuel.  Does anyone have any ideas/opinions about using Turpentine as the thining agent instead of acetone?  The purpose is to run a listeroid (or Lister, Lister-Petter AC1) on totally renewable fuel and lubricants, eliminating the use of DinoPetro completely. 

Generators / Bearings -- Should they spin or not??
« on: February 12, 2007, 12:38:57 AM »
  I was reading the topic about disassembling an ST head and wanted to make a few comments about bearings.  In my 25+ years of wastewater work, I've seen lots of bearings replaced.  We had professionals of all types teaching us at seminars about how to work with them.  SO, I am familiar with how to handle them. 
  Now just a few things said in a general look for way. 
1) Whichever part of your piece of equipment truns should have the bearing race a heavy press fit.  Heat then slip on.
2) Whichever part of your equipment sits still while it's running should have the bearing race be a slip fit. 
  The reason is: Bearings are designed to slowly rotate when in use.  Think of it this way.  The weight of things sit on a small spot at the bottom of the bearing, if the races never turn all the weight will cause enormous wear on that spot and nowhere else.  The material of the races is designed to 'squish' just a litle bit under pressure.  So, in the case of an ST head, if the end bell side race is a slip fit, the 'squish' will cause that race to VERY SLOWLY rotate, thereby exposing a new surface at the bottom as it runs.  This will extend the life of the bearing tremendously. 
  The race sitting on the rotating shaft needs to be a very tight fit so that it won't rotate.  Here the situation is that when the rotor starts to spin, and when it changes the rate of spin, the race tends to lag behind.  This tends to scrape  or gall the surface of the shaft itself. 
  SO, The rotating piece gets a tight fit, the stationary piece gets a slip fit (NOT a loose fit), and the bearing and equipment lasts much longer. 
  3) Bearings are made of pretty hard metal.  Never strike them with a hard metal object.  This will cause them to crack.  SOFT metal like brass can be used with much better luck.  You may not see the crack that you create, but, it will show up later as a failed bearing.  NOW, this isn't to say that some highly skilled, highly motivated people can't use a get-a-round and have it be succesful, just not the run of the mill people like most of us.  My Father used to remove old bearings from 6" & 8"  shafts by using an acetylene torch and ice water.  Heat a spot on the outer race to red hot with a torch, chill with ice (or cold) water, repeat the operation at 180 degrees. Then strike each spot with a heavy hammer,  The race will shatter at each spot and the race will fall off.  Use a pair of pliers (or other item) to remove the balls and cage,  then repeate the heating-chilling-striking procedure on the inner race.   This will get off the old bearing without harming the shaft at all.  Some people (including my Father occasionally) use a cutting torch to cut the races in half, BUT, you probably will cut into the shaft material itself while doing it.  This means hundreds of dollars to machine down the shaft and fit a new specially machined sleeve if you are VERY carefull and lucky, OR,  several thousands of dollars for a new shaft and its' installation if you're not VERY careful and lucky.  City governments frown on this kind of expensive wastage. 
  Since it's our own personal possesion that we're working on here, it would be nice to use the best technique you can manage.  Any other comments are welcome here. 
  If your bearings are loose where they should be tight, it can be fixed.  If it's tight where it should be loose that's even easier to fix. 

Generators / basic electronics books
« on: September 01, 2006, 03:17:58 PM »
  Hi, I found some links to the electronics mini-books that Radio Shack used to sell.  A majority of them seem to have been written by Forrest M. Mims. 
Amazon search under Mims, Forrest M. as author:

His website:

The basic "get started" book:

A listing of what he's published:

Listeroid Engines / Horizontal Listeroid??
« on: August 31, 2006, 02:49:11 PM »
  Just posting a question for some quick coments.  Don't have to be indepth.  Just looking for a few suggestions. 
  What would you think about laying a listeroid over on it's side to give a horizontal cylinder cinfiguration?  Benefits?  Problems?  What would have to be changed/reconfigured? 
  Purpose is that I tend to like horizontal more and not really looking for a Changfa.  Wanting a work engine not a display engine so no 'other manufacture' 'antique' engine. 

Engines / ? for mamad
« on: August 25, 2006, 06:46:47 PM »
  We've been discussing what kind of modern oil to use in our Listeroids.  I thought it would be nice to find out what type/wt./sort of oils you use in your neck of the woods for the slow speed Listers.  Also, do you have any idea about what type of air filters seem to work best in dusty conditions (oil or dry)? 

Waste Vegetable Oil / Scalable Centrifuge to clean up VO
« on: August 02, 2006, 10:42:29 PM »
I ran across this on the Biodiesel & SVO forum today.
 It's a homemade centrifuge that apparently does a fantsastic job of removing particles and water.

General Discussion / Skippy powered alternator
« on: July 31, 2006, 11:42:33 PM »

  I know it looks ridiculous at first, but,  Read ON!!

This takes alternative power to new heights. 

General Discussion / Wind powered water
« on: July 31, 2006, 11:07:23 PM »
For those of you looking for ways to move water with dependability. 
  Check out this site about Savonious rotors.


  It's a windmill that doesn't care which direction the wind comes from.  Used to power all sorts of water pumps.  Apparently used a lot in Australia.  Seems ideal for remote locations where the grid doesn't reach and you need a steady supply of water. 

Listeroid Engines / Strengtening Flywheels
« on: July 30, 2006, 01:35:06 PM »
  I've been thinking about how to help strengthen the flywwheels for Listeroids when I remembered how train wheels are built.  They have an iron rim with a steel tire.  Anybody have any ideas about the possibility of machining the outer circumference of the flywheel to accept a high tensile strength steel band that could be heat expanded and shrunk to fit tightly.  Similar to how you put a steel tire on wooden wheels.  This should resist any explosive forces and help my peace of mind. 

Listeroid Engines / stop Those Runaways
« on: June 16, 2006, 02:09:00 AM »
  I've been thinking about how to make these engines safer for all this tinkering I plan to be doing.  I plan to install an air shutoff valve.  Surely someone here has experience with ?Cummins? (I think) 2-stroke truck engines.  Ours had an emergency shutoff flapper valve between the supercharger and the cylinders.  You could pull a handle in the cab, release a catch on the valve  and the flapper would shut, cutting off all air to the engine.  I'm trying to work out how to get one to fit in the intake line.  Just move the intake away from the head a bit and insert a block with the valve in it.  Then string a cord from the release to a doorway, which would allow you to release the cutoff from anywhere the cord was at. 
  Anybody have a good idea about the design & manufacture?  Perhaps add a spring mechanism to load a brass gate valve used for water pipe. 

  Just a couple of questions for general comment.
1)  Would it be fair to use the following designations for engines?
   Listeroid = Vertical cylinder, TWO flywheels, watercooled.
   Petteroid = Vertical cylinder, ONE flywheel, water or air cooled.
   Changfa type = Horizontal cylinder, one flywheel, water cooled.
Even though we know that all of the combos were used at some time. 

2)  Thinking about converting a Listeroid to LP gas as fuel. 
   Install LP gas carburetor,  pull injector and install spark plug,  remove unneccessary items (injector pump, etc.).  Could also keep injector and use as ignition source for LP.  Intent is to use Listeroid as  fixed generator system running from large LP gas tank for backup power.  Would eliminate storage of Diesel/BioDiesel/V.O. and carbon buildup, etc.  Make any modifications to create a dependable, slow speed, efficient engine.   Also, might meet EPA requirements. 

Any coments or suggestions welcomed. 

Lister Based Generators / air compressor stalling generator
« on: May 31, 2006, 12:07:57 AM »
  I read about this in one of the posts here, but, I can't remember which one.  So, I'll give it a shot in this post.

 ;D  The post was taliking about how his generator would lug down and almost stall when his air compressor came on with pressure in the tank.  There is a way to completely eliminate that action.  The larger air compressors have a compression release on the compressor itself that holds the intake (I think it's the intake) valve open with discharge to the atmosphere while the rpm is coming up.  Once the rpm is almost at speed the hold-open releases and the compressor starts pumping air to the tank.  The idea is to relieve the strain of compressing air until momentum has built up and the starting load of the motor is over.  Then compression kicks in and everything takes off. 
  This kind of thing is used for compressors starting with 90psi or so still in the tank.  I don't remember for sure, but, I think it is an attachment that could be installed on any compressor.    ;) :o 8) :-X

Lister Based Generators / auto CV joints for direct drive gen.
« on: May 28, 2006, 09:25:53 PM »
  Has anyone tried to use an automotive CV joint on a direct drive generator setup.  It should allow for some angular misalignment between the engine and the gen head.  Regular U-Joints aren't supposed to be angled by much.  Les

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