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Topics - Reno Speedster

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1
Listeroid Engines / The run in on the Frankinlister
« on: October 27, 2008, 03:55:34 AM »
Well, today I went out with the new motor mount for the ST5 and fitted everything up.  It took way longer than I expected of course but in the end the belt was on and the gen head ready to go.  I went through the engine and checked everything before starting and it looked good.  I flashed the gen to get residual magnitism and wired the head to a plug then fired it up.  I plugged in my air-compressor and a drill press and ran it for half an hour.  I don't have my laser tachometer yet but I did a rough speed adjustment, varying the speed periodically.  When I started there was a little white smoke with each exhaust stroke but by the end of the half hour the exhaust was essentally clear.  The valve lifters turn, the exhaust spins like a top!  My oil pump and filter system works great as does the new valve block and drip oiler set-up.  There were a few little leaks to take care of, exhaust and cooling lines, but they were easily sorted.  The thermostat seems to be working fine as does the thermosyphon.  The top of the radiator got quite hot (along with the head) but the lower part was cooler.  In addition to the thermostat I can controll the waterflow with a couple of ball valves I put in the cooling lines (so I could drain just the engine if needed).  I need to check the timing of the injection pump to make sure that it is optimum and I will set the RPM as soon as my tach comes.  Now I can wire the pannel and install some plugs in the engine shed.

The only thing that seems a little off is that the cheap chinese voltmeter on the gen head is reading about 90-95 volts.  This could be due to low RPM or a bad meter.  I need to test it with a Kill-a-Watt once the pannel is wired.  Still, it was a good day.

2
Generators / Check me on the bolt spacing for my ST5
« on: October 17, 2008, 06:52:22 AM »
I am making a bracket for my ST5 but I left the manual out at the ranch and I can't measure it till I get back out there.   But... I need to make the bracket before then.  So,  I looked on line and found a manual which says that the hole spacing is 354 mm which calculates to 10 inches.  Can anyone confirm this for me so I can make this thing?  Thanks

3
Listeroid Engines / Yipee! The Frankenlister ran today!
« on: October 16, 2008, 04:42:58 AM »
A while back I put up a post about a missing compression stroke.  Well today I went out to check it out and found that everything was just as it should be.  I just was not getting any compression when I rolled it over slowly, but when I spun it up the compression stroke was there. I think its just that the rings are not seated in.  So, I put in some fuel and bled the lines and kicked it over and it started right up!  I still need to get the throttle assembly adjusted and get a tach so I can get it dialed in, but first smoke,  what a great feeling.

4
Listeroid Engines / Missing a compression stroke.
« on: September 09, 2008, 04:26:06 PM »
Check my thinking here.  I did the final assembly of the top end yesterday after noon (checked the TDC with a dial caliper, marked the flywheel, installed and torqued the head and installed the rocker arm assembly) Before the rocker assembly went on I had plenty of compression and effectively couldn't turn the flywheel through a compression stroke.  Once the valve train was on I seem to have lost the compression stroke.  With the exhaust valve hold open off, I can turn the flywheel quite easily through what should be the compression stroke.  My thought is that I have the cam timing off so that the valves are opening at the wrong time, negating the compression.   I know there is a way to set the valve timing by degree but I didn't have time yesterday to sort it out yesterday.

5
Listeroid Engines / Looking for heavy fly wheels
« on: July 30, 2008, 06:51:06 PM »
My Ashwamegh came with the spoke flywheels and I would like to get a set of heavy wheels to counteract light flicker.  Are they available as parts?  I'd rather get them on the west coast (where I could go pick them up).  If this does not work I can go the route of buying an engine with the heavy wheels as a spare and swap the wheels out.

6
Everything else / Where to get a drive belt?
« on: June 16, 2008, 09:50:48 PM »
I am at the point where I need a drive belt for my engine and I am having a bit of a time finding one.  I measured arround the flywheel, over the tensioner and arround the generator drive wheel (which is an early one from George) which measuered 90 inches.  I have about three inches of travel in the belt tensioner.  As far as I can tell, these belts are measured on the outside so I think a 92 inch belt would be about right.   It needs a 6 groove belt but I am finding out that   this is a bit long for a stock size (off the shelf) and a conversation with the local gates guy has me a bit confused as to which belt I need.  According to him there is no such thing as "standard" belt.  Where have you guys found your belts?

7
Listeroid Engines / Some photos of my engine
« on: June 09, 2008, 01:26:18 AM »
I am trying to get some pictures added for a post so I am testing a bit. 

This is a picture of my engine shed when we were getting ready to pour another foundation.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/p10engineshed.jpg

This is a photo of my Ashwamegh in the engine shed with one flywheel off to show the added oil pump and oil filter.  The engine is about to be done and test run.  In the picture you can see that the generator head is off because I was installing the belt tensioner.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/61.jpg

Here is a picture of the tensioner

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/tensioner.jpg


This should be a closeup of the pump and the oil filter.  In case you are wondering when Ashwamegh put oil umps on, I added the pump to this engine.  The camshaft cover is an origional Lister item I bought off E-bay.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/oilfilter.jpg

The oil pump sends oil through the oil filter and back into the case through the hole over the offside cam bearing.  This provides a steady flow of clean oil to the engine and oils this under oiled bushing.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/oilreturn.jpg

Here is a picture of the fuel and cooling line along with the exhaust.  I set this up so I can shut off the cooling lines to work on the engine.  I also installed a diesel fuel filter on the wall below the stainless tank

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/connections.jpg

and here is a shot of my radiator and the exhaust on the outside of the building.

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/renospeedster/Exhaust_and_radiator_ofr_the_61.jpg


I will take some pictures of the new valve block and get them up along with some finished pictures.

8
Listeroid Engines / Coppermine help!
« on: June 04, 2008, 11:21:10 PM »
I'm trying to get some pictures up on coppermine and I'm new at it.  I am following all the steps, upload the pictures then I get to the point where enter the title, descriptiuon and key words.  When  I hit continue and I get the following message...

Failed to create directory albums/userpics/10211 !


Warning: mkdir(albums/userpics/10211) [function.mkdir]: No such file or directory in /hsphere/local/home/troyl/listerengine.com/coppermine/upload.php on line 2192

I have no idea what this means or how to fix it.   Help!


9
OK, I am just getting to the point where I will have a running engine so I need to start thinking about the gen head.   When I got it I had it apart to put in American sealed bearings and paint the coils and case with red glyptol.  I also changed one of the brushes as it was sticking.  I am sorry if this has been answered elsewhere but the search engine is not working.  So, I am looking to wire 4 small buildings on the ranch with 110 and I am puzzled as to how to balance the load.  I'm sorry to say that I know alot more about building an engine than electricity so I'm at the begining of the learning curve here.  I see from the manual that I can wire the head for two 110 leads or, I think, one 220 but I am not that sure.  As I understand it I can run the two 110 leads to a pannel and then join them with breaker to make 220 if I need it.  So, what would be the point of wiring the head for 220?  What I want is the most efficiant way to utilize the head to make 110 for plugs, lights and eventually a charger for a battery bank (along with solar and wind). 

Also, should I be changing anything else on the head before I wire it up?

Sorry for the simple questions, I can just use the information so I can get it wired up for a load before starting the engine. 

10
Listeroid Engines / Looking for a 7 stud head/cylinder
« on: May 07, 2008, 04:58:01 AM »
I'm looking to pick up a spare head and a spare cylinder.  I have some spare sleeves but I am interested in getting one of the origional style 7 stud integral sleeve cylinders and a head to match.  Can anyone tell me which brands have the 7 stud heads and who might have these spares in stock?  The only place I have seen them is at a supplier in England and they seem to be out of heads (not to mention the insane shipping cost!)

11
I am at the point where I need to reinstall the Gib Keys on my 6/1 (can't wiat to get it running after all this time!).  Anyway, I have seen the films of the assemblers installing them at the factory with a sledge hammer  :o and I know its extreamly important to get them tight.  However, the hammering on mine dimpled the bearing races.  I replaced them with American made bearings (overkill I know) and I would like to avoid ruining them.  My thought is to make a set of wood blocks to go between the flywheels and the bearing caps, which would support the wheels and limit the ammount of latteral force transfered to the crank during the hammering process.  Does this sound like a good plan?  Is there a better way to do this?  Also, how hard should I drive these in?  I don't want to crack the wheels or have them come loose (god forbid!).

12
Listeroid Engines / Some Valve Lifter Questions
« on: March 20, 2008, 05:30:37 AM »
I spent a rare day out at the ranch working on the Frankinlister and I got quite alot done.  The connecting rod is shimmed to 2/1000, the rings are properly spaced, the timing gear and offset idler is in and adjusted, the head is on, the injector and fuel pump are on.  All in all, a good day. 

So, I have the valve rocker assembly sitting here on my desk and I am puzzled by its construction. First, are the pads which run on the valves pressed in or threaded in.  My pads are soft and badly worn from the run in.  I'd like to make some new hard ones. 

Second, I don't get why the assembly includes springs.  Has anyone redesigned/rebuilt the valve lifetr assembly to include side thrust washers or a more precise side to side placement?  I have seen the setup with a little oil pump here on the list, but I am thinking about installing a Lunkenheimer drip oiler I have on the shelf and running oil to the rocker arms. 

What do you think, is it worth the effort to redesign the assembly?  Does anyone have any pictures of a redesigned assembly? 

13
Listeroid Engines / Too Cold to Work on the Frankinlister
« on: December 27, 2007, 07:23:12 AM »
I went out to the ranch on one of my very rare days off to get some work in on the "Frankinlister" (so named because of the wide ranging parts collection which are now on it) but it was too damed cold!  Half way out of town I was caught in a snow storm and by the time I got there the wind was up.  The combination made me feal like I was in a Russian film! Anyway, when I started the heater in the shed water started condensing on the cold metal.  Its so cold that one of the flywheels has shrunk enough to keep it from going on the shaft (it came off easily when I took it apart).  After a few minutes I gave it up as a bad job and went home.  Ah well, spring will come eventually

14
Listeroid Engines / Placement of Crankshaft Timing Marks
« on: November 16, 2007, 03:53:12 PM »
OK, I just got my crank back from the shop yesterday after they replaced the damaged timing gear with a new one from Anand.  The problem is it has no timing marks on it.  Now this is not a lot worse that the origional which had timing marks, but they were on the side of the gear facing the bearing so they were covered up!  Anyway, can someone tell me the posistion of the two marks on the crank timing gear?  From the origional placement of the damaged teath on the gear they look to be about 180 degrees from the crank throw. Does anyone know?  Thanks.

Morgan


15
Listeroid Engines / Just got the parts from Power Anand ;D
« on: October 21, 2007, 11:22:42 PM »
I just got the parts I ordered from Power Anand.  It was part of a group order put in by the folks here on the wire to cut down the price of shipping, and I have to say that I am VERY impressed with the parts and the way they were packed.  Compared to the stuff which came on my Ashwamegh these are much nicer parts with much better finish.   I am very pleased to have them.  The box was pretty banged up when it got here but they had packed things so well, in carefully fitted little boxes, that everything came through in perfect condition.  I am looking forward to another group order so I can get some more things.  I know this takes a little longer that getting things from the parts dealers, but this is really the way to go when looking for parts.  Anyone getting together an order from these folks please count me in!

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