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Topics - Shadow

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Listeroid Engines / Overspeeding Dilema
« on: December 12, 2013, 12:17:46 AM »
I have a 6/1 running a 5kw gen set. I try to run it about 620 rpm and the genset is about 118-119 volt at that speed. Now , it will run along fine at that speed until the battery bank starts getting full and the rectifier reduces required amps at which time the 6/1 starts to gain a little speed.  Now if Sun comes out nice and bright and adds some solar into the mix then the rectifier reduces amps substanially and the Listeroid picks up more speed. 

So now The Lister is revving higher and instead of feeding 240 volts into the rectifier its sending in 250-255 volts and the rectifier won't accept voltage that high so it kicks off leaving the Lister to run unloaded and I have to catch it or will overspeed so bad its taken two cranks out!  Today I caught it in time and it must have been going 1000 rpm!  Where do I start? I thought the genset would maintain a certain voltage, but apparently its speed related? 

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Listeroid Engines / Generator size for Listeroid
« on: April 01, 2011, 03:40:16 PM »
I currently have a 5 kw Chinese generator coupled to my single cylinder Listeroid. It has been nothing but trouble, slip rings wore through and had to be replaced, brush holder springs have all broke, bearing went, and finaly housing broke complete length of generator, had it cast welded only lasted about a week. So I brazed it myself seems to be holding good so far. Less than 5 years old but used alot!

Anyway although its 5 kw I only use 3 kw to power my rectifier to charge batteries. So now I have a chance to get a Stamford 7.5kw generator. Will my Listeroid run it fine if only using 3 kw? Both are about same size physically both 1800 rpm. What do you think?

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Original Lister Cs Engines / INJECTOR LINE WANTED
« on: April 12, 2010, 03:51:42 PM »
Hi Everyone,

 I'm looking for an injector line for a Lister CD. The line runs from the pump to the injector.

 Mine rubbed a pinhole in the side.  Anyone ever weld an injector line? Or will I be the first to try?... Thanks

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Listeroid Engines / 2 Years... 2 crankshafts!
« on: December 20, 2009, 06:19:54 AM »
I have a GTC brand 6/1 run mostly on Bio diesel. I use it to run a 5kw generator as well as use it for the bio diesel  production. It sees alot of work about 200 -250 hours a month year around.
  About a year ago we put a new crank in it after rod bearing went and we attributed it to sand, so cleaned it up good and painted crankcase everything seemed good until last week.  Engine had stopped and discovered rod bearing had turned about 1/4 inch(probably enough to cover oil hole) then siezed.

 Soo we are trying to figure out what went wrong. I'm getting lots of local opinions so thought I would get professional opinions.

 I change oil once a month, so thats 200-250 hours. Some say thats too long, others say no thats ok for a stationary engine in a clean environment running at 600-650 rpm.

 But I am using Walmart 30 wt oil. Now we checked all the numbers and the oil meets or exceeds most every oil requirement out there. But I'm wondering if it meets requirements when its brand new but after a few hours it may go downhill fast.So by 200 hours its not even oil any longer..just a fluid.

So on my back up engine I'm using Shell Rotella 15/40 wt.

  Are my crankshaft problems oil related or? Rod bearing related?.. Maybe I should be changing rod bearings annually?  Synthetic oil maybe?

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Lucky Find!
« on: April 24, 2009, 06:39:18 PM »
Sometimes we get Lucky!
              I collect old Windchargers, generators, 6, 12 &32 volt stuff from years gone by. A guy called me this winter and asked if I was interested in some 32 volt motors, lightbulbs and old generator. I took his number and gave him a call last Sat to go have a look. I got real excited when he opened the shed door and there sat a 3 1/2 hp Lister /generator! Its rare to find one that complete, lots of times the generator was removed and engine used for a water pump or saw etc.
         He even had the magneto rebuilt so he could get it running. Its has a rheostat to vary the volts from 32-46, and the brass arm is missing off that,otherwise it is fairly complete.
              I'm not sure of the year, but I'm guessing early '30's? Serial #53929 
                       The photos will load on the right side of your screen.

[img=http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4571/mvc006s.th.jpg]
[img=http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/9348/mvc008s.th.jpg]
[img=http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3482/mvc016s.th.jpg]
[img=http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3986/mvc015ss.th.jpg]

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Fuel pump timing a Lister CD
« on: February 12, 2009, 03:11:36 AM »
I have a 1938 Lister CD, that I just got running tonite, (First time in probably 15 years). It has always needed a fuel pump,so I gave up on finding an original and found out the one off my 6/1 GTC brand bolted right on and seems to work. But I'm wondering about the timing of it.
     I presume I would find top dead center, mark it on the flywheel and do the spill test and set it where? Although it ran it was all over the board on rpms, it would do double time then level out then coast aways then fire up and run smooth then miss a couple beats...etc. I didnt expect it to run perfect yet, but thought I might check the timing. One thing I noticed was the injector 'creak' is very loud on my 6/1 whereas this one is very quiet.
        But I'm not sure where the addjustment is to adjust the fuel pump if necessary.  Thanks

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Listeroid Engines / New Crank....Loud Knock!
« on: February 05, 2009, 11:35:30 PM »
Just got done replacing the crank in my GTC 6/1. Put in new crank, new con rod and bearing, piston rings are about a month old, had head redone with new valves and guides and seats.

 Fired it up today and it has a loud knock with a real high ring to it! It sounds as if someone is using a hammer and tapping  on the flywheel with every revolution. After pulling the side cover off and checking everything inside, finding nothing out of the ordinary I thought the piston must be hitting the valves. So pulled the head off, everything is good. Torqued the cylinder to spec and measured the piston to head clearance and its good. Reassembled and same noise!
    Thought maybe it was timing gear issue so pulled that apart and realigned the marks. Same noise. I'm running out of options. Everything turns over smooth and quiet by hand but as soon as it fires it starts knocking.
  As I was typing this I got wondering if the cylinder liner could have came loose? Maybe its moving up and down with the piston?  Anyone?   Thanks

9
Listeroid Engines / Rod bearing oiling?
« on: January 31, 2009, 12:12:53 AM »
I'm trying to figure out the way the rod bearing oiling procedure works. The crank has an aluminum ring, oil slinger? Is that what  it is?  That picks up the oil and feeds it into the crank which in turn oils the bearing and the excess oil comes out the top two holes in the bearing?
     And the dipper supplys oil to the cam and piston rings etc?  I couldnt find this info on the utterpower cd.
                       Anyone know what kind of paint or sealer to use on the inside of the crankcase after the casting sand has been removed?   Thanks

10
Waste Vegetable Oil / Carbon issues
« on: December 17, 2007, 02:14:01 AM »
I'm running my 6/1 on WVO,but I'm having trouble with carbon after about 4 days of running. I have made some corrections so it may get better. I heat the oil via engine coolant to about 160 degrees then have an injection line heater so oil is hot going in. I just added the line heater so this might correct it.
            When I pull the head off,the exhaust valve is carboned up as well as the top of the piston is fairly black and baked on, as well as a bit of a black ridge in top of  cylinder.
           I've tried the water injection method for a day or so, didnt seem to help much. I've running with the compression knob turned in(some people say you need higher compression for veg.oil) that didnt seem to make much diff.
         Next I'll try the Acetone mixture with the oil, see if that helps. I wonder what would happen if I used Lacquer thinner instead of Acetone? The ingrediants of Lacquer thinner are, Toluene, methyl ethyl ketone, methanol,and acetone. But its $15.00 a gal, compared to $28.00 gal for Acetone.
    Next question How much of a role would my exhaust system be playing in this ?  I have 2 inch pipe coming out of the engine with a sharp 90 degree elbow going straight up 3 feet then a more gradual 90 following the ceiling over to the outer wall about 6 feet, then through the wall and another 90 along the outside wall for about 2 feet into a Ford  pickup muffler then out of the muffler to another gradual 90 downspout.Total exhaust sytem is about 15 feet of 2 inch pipe but lots of turns. Is exhaust better to rise up out of the engine or down?  Straight out is not an option the way my shed is set up but I could go straight up through the ceiling or down to just above the floor then straight out. Or Maybe exhaust is not the problem.
               I am current oiling the valves and rocker arms with a veg-oil-2 cycle oil mixture just a shot a couple times a day. I think I'll make a felt washer setup on the valve stems so the absorb oil but dont let it get sucked in the valve guides.  ???
       

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Generators / Right size Generator for Listeroid?
« on: November 16, 2007, 01:38:14 AM »
More of an observation than a question, but how did we get from a 2.5kw on the startomatics to 5kw that seems common today on the same 6/1.
    Not sure what Lister used for criteria for deciding the 2.5 kw was about the right size gen to use for 6/1. And now years later most have decided 5 kw is genereator of choice. Was the 2.5kw way undersized or are we going oversize?

12
Generators / Finding neutral on 220 volt ST head
« on: November 12, 2007, 05:59:27 PM »
This has probably been addressed before, or maybe I should be contacting my supplier..but he is a man of few words most times.
         I have my Gen wired 240 volt, U3 and U4 clamped together, and U1 and U2 as Line 1 and Line 2. According to the book this wired for 50 Hz. (Should be 60Hz in this country) but there are no connections or even holes for U5 and U6.
          So now at my panel box in the gen shed I want to get 110 volts but need a neutral connection. Whats the procedure?  I have 3 wire cable to run from Gen to panel box.  Thanks


13
Listeroid Engines / Jumping on the cement Bandwagon
« on: November 02, 2007, 04:03:02 AM »
After a month or so watching the walls shake  in the generator shed, I decided to seperate engine from building.
 I got out the saws and cut out a hole in the floor 4 feet by 32 inches wide by 26 inches deep. I put about 3 inches of pea gravel and sand mixed together,then laid 4 cinderblocks in and 4 iron pole braces to hold up my 8 inch I-Beams. After levelling and re-bar I filled it with cement so the I-Beams were countersunk in about 4 1/2 inches of cement.
      Now I have bolted 2 more 30 inch lengths of 8 inch I-Beam crosswise on that . (Just to give me more height)


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Lister Based Generators / 1800 Rpm vs 3600 rpm Same HP?
« on: August 20, 2007, 06:31:01 AM »
I have a 5000 watt Generac belt driven generator, while getting 4 inch pulley made a fellow commented it will take a few hp to run this generator. I never thought about it at the time, but could it be it takes more power to run 3600 rpm vs 1800 ?
        With my 6/1 running at 650 -652 rpm (using a laser tach) when I plug in a 500 watt halogen light(560 watts according to the watt meter) I immediately lose 10 rpm.
      By plugging in another 1000 watt load (heater) the engine slows and really labours. 1600 watts and I'm down to 600 rpm. In order to maintain 650 RPM I have to start unloaded at 690 rpm!
      Unloaded the generator is putting out 130 volts at 62-64 hz. With light plugged in it lowers to about 127 volts 60-62 hz.In order to lower those numbers  I'd have to slow the engine down.
     Sooo... Engine issue? or generator issue?  With 560 watt load the engine ran at 650 rpm for 3 hrs tonite, temperature right about 170, no thermostat. Thermosyhponing into a 20 gal tank of water.

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Listeroid Engines / Thermostat for GTC brand 6/1
« on: August 05, 2007, 05:45:32 PM »
I'm getting close to firing up my GTC 6/1 that I purchased from the good folks at Eco-Diesel systems in Alberta.I went looking for a suitable thermostat to complete the cooling system and found that a thermostat from a 1985 Olds Firenza 2.0 litre fits perfect! Including the housing! Not sure if all 6/1's have the two piece flange(housing), but this one has the 1 inch threaded piece on the outside and under that is another flange with countsunk impression to fit a thermostat. This particular thermostat fits exactly in there so you can bolt the outer piece back on if you want to use the one inch threaded outlet, or bolt the aluminum housing from the Olds if you want to use a Rad hose.
              One qustion I do have, Is when I start this engine, How long can I run it without a load of any kind on it? Its all bolted in place with everything hooked up. But my genenerator is not here so cant put a load on. Is it safe to run empty for any length of time? Thanks

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