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Topics - cujet

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Listeroid Engines / What are you guys using for fuel tanks?
« on: March 17, 2020, 02:38:47 PM »
I have a 6/1 and a 20/2.

What kind of fuel tank setup do you have?

My 6/1 uses the original green tank that is mounted on the head. While it seems big enough (not sure of the capacity) it is rusting badly inside. The 20/2 uses a 6 gallon outboard engine fuel tank and that seems to be a good choice. But the fuel lines are getting stiff.

I'm considering welding up an aluminum tank to mount on the 6/1. One that holds about 5 gallons, so the thing can run all day without stopping. Also would like a large filler opening, so I can get my hand in there and clean it out.


Listeroid Engines / Catalytic converter to reduce exhaust odor
« on: February 27, 2020, 02:29:20 PM »
I have 2 Listeroids, a 6/1 that's cranked up to a 7.5/1 by raising the RPM and a 20/2 that's slowed down a bit. Both engines have automotive mufflers and are quiet enough for my location. However, I absolutely despise the smell of diesel exhaust and while both engines have clear exhaust when operating, they do have enough odor to be bothersome.

Years ago, I remember some effort was being made to develop an emissions compliant Listeroid. That's not my goal here.

What I've been thinking about is purchasing a diesel specific catalytic converter and mounting it as close to the head as possible. I have TIG welding equipment and it would be quite easy to weld a flange that installs it directly on the head. Yes, I know most diesel owners desire to "delete" the emissions equipment. However, I have sufficient power, and I'm sure any HP loss would be minimal with a low restriction catalyst.

What I'm not sure about is whether it would help, and whether or not it would actually "light off" and function.

Has anyone done such a thing?

General Discussion / Motorcycle with Lister D engine.
« on: January 30, 2019, 12:20:07 PM »
Rat Bike with Lister D 1936:

The video is interesting! He cooks some hot dogs in the engine's water while he is riding the bike.

I'm in the market for a car. No particular need for anything special, other than I don't want to spend a lot for an appliance. (Note, I prefer performance cars, but this will be a third car for my Florida home) The $7500 EV (electric vehicle) tax credit would be really helpful this year. Since the Chevy Volt is now heavily discounted, at about $24,500-$25,500 for a base model, it's worth considering. The tax credit brings the total out of pocket cost to just under $20K. Not bad at all for an efficient car.

The Volt goes about 50 miles on a charge, and after that, the gas engine kicks in.

If I purchase one, it might be very interesting to see just how effective the 6/1 is in charging the thing.

Note 2: The 2018 Volt takes 13 hours to charge on 115V and 4.5 hours on 240 (the charger is 3.6KW) .   My 6/1 has somewhat increased RPM (770) and makes about 4400W max, 4000 with clear exhaust. HMMMMMMM :) So I think it would be just fine charging at 240V.

Listeroid Engines / Weight of 6-1 with 5kw ST head on frame w/wheels
« on: September 15, 2018, 03:04:49 AM »
I have this 6-1 setup. I'm moving this setup via truck and need to guess what the weight is. I don't have any method to actually weigh it prior to loading it up in the truck next week.


Listeroid Engines / installing 20/2 listeroid generator in shed
« on: October 02, 2017, 12:11:59 PM »
I will be purchasing a 20x12 steel shed (really a portable building on skids) with a wooden floor for storage of my accumulated stuff and lawn/yard equipment.

My lister generator is currently sitting outside under a tarp, where my fabric garage used to be prior to the hurricane. Can't have it sitting in the rain..... ugh. As it really is a very nice machine.

Here is the issue, these sheds have a 3/4 inch plywood floor. The lister is heavy and violent enough that the floor is clearly insufficiently strong, even for temporary storage of the generator. Yet, it would be nice to have that thing inside the shed even for temporary storage until I finish the generator shack. I had considered putting some sonotubes full of concrete in the ground, and using that to support the lister. Eventually, I'd like to have the lister in it's own dedicated small building, behind the house, on a concrete slab.

I'd love to pour a slab and construct a real garage, but I don't have the funds for that. The portable building is 1/6th the cost of a real garage.


Listeroid Engines / Catalytic converter, revisited
« on: November 21, 2015, 05:48:57 PM »
No, I've not installed a catalytic converter on my Listeroid. However, I am again considering the possibility.

VW jokes aside, smelling diesel exhaust all day while working in the yard, running off grid is simply nasty. My engine simply has mufflers attached to the exhaust ports. They stick out horizontally. This leads to exhaust fumes hovering at ground level and accumulating on my property. It also leads me to believe that the exhaust fumes are truly nasty. I hate diesel exhaust smell.

I'm considering mounting a set of high flow catalytic converters (one per cylinder) close to the head, in an attempt at reducing the pollution. My home typically does not draw all that much current, so the engine has long period of modest load. Even so, I believe there is enough heat to light off the cats.

Any thoughts? Any suggestions as to which one to purchase? Possibly VW will have a slew of less than effective exhaust treatment devices in the dumpster soon?

Listeroid Engines / Yes, my twin ran backwards today! What fun
« on: August 10, 2013, 10:37:20 PM »

I've been getting weaker rather rapidly as I age (I'm 49)(some health issues) . I'm not exactly able to crank over my 20HP twin with enough speed to get it to start lately. But, feeling good today, I thought I'd give it a try. Two hands on the handle, crank it as fast as I can (not enuf) and release the compression. It stops and kicks back, with enough force to get it to rotate backwards with lots of speed. The engine then starts on one cylinder and belches the nastiest smoke you have ever seen, out of the air filter!!! It comes up to speed and the generator comes on line!

Handle still attached to the crank, firmly, as the drive pawl is fully engaged in the direction of operation. I'm smart enough to get away from this. So, I sit there and watch it run for a bit. Sounds nasty, smells nasty. I'm sure my neighbors love me now, with huge clouds of acrid black smoke going up.

Finally, I take stock of the situation (fuel rack was full open) and go around the other side. Reach over and shut off the fuel lever. It comes to a halt.

Now, I was under the mistaken impression that 4 stroke diesels could not operate backwards, as the series of intake-compression-combustion-exhaust must be in that order. But, it seems that I now have a Bi-Directional Listeroid.

Guess I'm getting an electric starter. I can no longer start this thing!

I'll check the injection timing and probably degree the camshaft again. Along with a careful inspection the internals for a broken timing gearset or something. I suspect nothing is wrong and I'm just weak.

Generators / New doghouse box for ST-15??
« on: March 12, 2013, 08:22:22 PM »
I want a better doghouse box on my ST-15. I've reinforced mine, but it's a bit too small.

I'd like one with an easy-open top. Made out of substantial material. I could make one myself, but it seems that I should be able to purchase one that works well enough.


Generators / New box for ST-15 (question)
« on: May 14, 2012, 12:38:16 AM »
I've run out of room in the electrical junction box atop my mighty ST-15 generator head.

I installed a conventional 115V dual plug outlet, a 230V generator receptacle, and a bank of capacitors along with a larger voltage regulator. The problem is that the box is simply too small for all of that.

I'd like something tough, and a bit larger. But, not huge. A hinged or easy access top would be great.

Suggestions please.

Generators / ST-15 flicker reduction with flywheel (question)
« on: August 31, 2011, 11:14:38 PM »
My 20/2 'roid drives a 23.3 inch flywheel at 850RPM (de-rated from 1000RPM). The ST-15 generator head has a very cool "Mike Montieth" heavy pulley. That pulley can accept a "bolt on" flywheel to reduce flicker.

So my question is this: How much flywheel do I need on the ST head to significantly reduce flicker? I believe Mike said he can make me a 16 inch flywheel that's 2 inches thick as that's the size that fits my application.

If you look carefully, you will see that the pulley also has a smaller diameter that allows me to run the engine at 600RPM for lower output and lower fuel consumption.

Listeroid Engines / I want to run my 20HP twin at 1250 RPM.
« on: April 24, 2009, 07:11:14 PM »
I want to run my 1000RPM twin at 1250RPM. I have tried getting it to this RPM by pushing on the rack and carefully watching the engine. It runs just fine at that speed. In fact, I would say, it's a bit smoother.

Please avoid rants about flywheel safety. I can make or purchase a strong flywheel with the proper diameter for the speeds involved. A car tire spins faster than one of these flywheels.

What do you guys think?

My twin is bluprinted and balanced, it's not a big time shaker. Yet it still pounds the ground like a pile driver (smells like one too!). I generally hae it close to the house and it is easy to tell it's running, as the entire house shakes with a very low frequency rumble. Remember, mine is on steel wheels, so it rests in the dirt, the grass or the gravel. But, it does not matter where I put it.

I was over at Bob's house and his twin is in a shed, mounted to concrete. It does exactly the same thing. Pounds the ground.

Thinking about Bob's single, he has it on tires filled with water. Besides the fact that it's well balanced, it seems to transmit much less to the ground.

Bruce has his twin mounted on large wood beams. My guess is that they also reduce the pounding slightly.

We tried a rubber tire section under each corner of a twin and it moved violently. That's not a good solution.

What do you guys think?


Engines / Tuning injection timing by ear
« on: November 01, 2008, 09:38:13 PM »
So, my twin started making a bit less power in the RH cylinder (the one farthest from the gov). In fact, it would not even make black smoke any more. So, after changing the inj and pump (did not help) Rocketboy adjusted the timing thereby increasing the pump stroke. As you would expect, that cylinder now makes a loud diesel knock.

I suspect there is an underlying problem with the timing of the cam lobe, or some unusual wear going on.

In any case, I wondered if any of you guys tune by ear. It is obviously easy to tell when there is too much advance, by the loud knock. There must be a point where the engine is "quiet enough" but powerful and efficient.

Obviously, in my case, the spill timing was a bit shy in the power department due to maximum pump stroke issues.


Lister Based Generators / automatic frequency control, revisited
« on: October 23, 2008, 08:06:38 PM »
OK, I cannot deal with the wide frequency swings, even with the most linear spring my engine will accept. I want accurate freq control. It does not need to be instant, but I want 60HZ under load and 60HZ under no load conditions.

Here is what I want to do:

1) use a governor spring similar to the original for rapid governor response.
2) build some form of electronic control that will slowly bring the engine back to "on freq" 60HZ.
3) attach this device to the engine in place of the spring perch.

The idea would be similar to adjusting the "knob" under high/low loads.

My guess is a radio control type servo attached to a force increasing/distance decreasing lever arm would do the trick. The movement is minimal, but the tension is high. The default setting would be no load 59.5HZ. The electronics would trim the engine to 60HZ and as load increases, the electronics would continuously trim the engine.

Using a pic processor and some simple components might just do the trick. It would be powered by 115V.


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