On my twin, when I removed the injector hold down blocks to use my valve spring compresser, I notice the injector felt loose on one of the heads. To tighten, I turned cw, but the injector supply tube ran out of clearance in the head cutout. First, Am I correct in thinking this is a pipe thread connection. Since I wanted to check injectors for carbon buildup and spray anyway. Are the removal steps as follows? 1. Remove hold down nuts and block. 2. Unscrew ccw and remove injector supply tube. 3. Unscrew injector ccw and remove. Someone, please verify, or describe correct removal procedure.  It seems apparant, but just wanted to make sure.

After three months of daily runs, I  pulled the heads last night to check for carbon buildup. Since I'm burning wvo, I did expect their would be some, and their was a little more then I expected. I attribute this to having insufficient temps during earlier runs (150- 170 deg. F), but with recent changes, I quicky get temp up to 220 deg F and maintain at injector. Hopefully their will be less  carbon in the future. Today, I'll pull cylinders and pistons and have a complete look at everything else. One observation was the oil, although still black, looked very clean. I guess a bypass filter is a good thing.

Now for the title subject. The major reason why I had to stop running, is the cooling temps. Coolant started to boil in the heads during the last few runs, at which time I had to decrease load significantly. I alwayed believed the "radiator" setup I was using was undersized, and would have to be replace eventually. With the increase in ambient temps, this became obvious. Now, I'd like to do what I wanted to do in the first place, heat exchange to a large, insulated tank of water, then use the collected heat. I know from previous discussions, their are many here who believe, this just isn't worth it. My own observation indicates, that at the load I'm usually carrying, their is a considerable amount of heat that can be captured.

My plane is to thermosiphon thru a very large flat plate heat exchanger (24" x 9 1/2" x 8 1/2", 2 1/2 ports reduced to 1 1/4"). Like before, I am planning to run 1 1/4" ID hose , from the stock coolant manifolds, with a healthy raise, to the heat exchanger ports. As before, 195 deg thermostats will be installed. The upper port coolant connection will contain a tee  just before heat exchanger port, to allow for a 1/4" hose connection to a reservoir above the heat exchanger. The other ports of the heat exchanger will connect to a 80 gal, insulated hot water tank, with the tank raised so connections are above heat exchanger port, to allow for effective thermo-siphoning. To cool the water in the insulated tank, the tanks second upper port will connect to a Taco pump, then to a couple of tees, each having gate valves. One tee connection will connect to a water to air heat exchanger, mounted almost flush to the wall with a louver openning, into my work shop/ wvo bulk storage area. This will help cool down the insullated tank fluid, heat wvo bulk tank when needed, and exhaust heated air into a much larger area. A second connection will connect to insulated pex pipe that will connect to a couple of baseboard radiators iin my house. A third port, when additional cooling is required in summer, will run out to a coil of 3/4" or 1" dia pex tubing, hung underneath the ladder in the pool.

I am planning to start implementing this in a few days,  and I'm definitely hoping for a sanity check before I start. The part of this that bothers me the most, is the low volume of water that will be contained in the primary cooling loop.

All comments are welcomed.

Forgive me for raising this subject again. I know its been talked about here time and again, as I have tried to closely follow this subject over the last year or so, and through through searches of discussions before that. I can't in my own mind, resolve what I believe is a descrepency between the desire to use non-detergent lub oil, so suspended material can settle out in the sump, and need to use oil that is diesel rated (CF-2, CF-4 etc..). Each time I get oil, I'm torn by what I read here (It makes sense in my mind anyway), and the application labeling on the products. I do know we are dealing with a dinosaur in the lister type, which the labeling probably doen't consider. I guess my real question is "what constitutes heavy duty diesel lube oil ".  Is it the quality of base oil, or the additive package contained. For my break-in oil and first change, I went with straight 30W Rotella rated for diesel. Was this a mistake, I don't know. Should I have gone for the 30w mineral without additives? I hope to get this straightened out in my own mind before my next oil change, coming up soon.

I'm moving along with getting my 12/2, 7.5kw ST genset up and running before winter. When mounting the gen head to its frame thew other night, I noticed that their was no UL or like listing mark on the label. Has anyone gotton any grief about this from their local electrical inspector.

Forgive me for going off topic, and I'm new on this forum, so forgive me. But I just have to vent. Like everywhere else in America, well almost, the big box stores are becoming almost the only choice (even in my somewhat rural community), unless you shop out of a catalog or the internet. The other day I heard that a local, family owned hardware store was closing. Why this matter to me was, that this store had been open for 140 years, run by the same family, a fixture, a virtual rock in our throw-away world. I remember the first time I step in there, I was amazed at the breath of products that were contained. I remembered thinking then, how does this place exist today, how does it keep such an inventory of so many diverse products, I mean some of the inventory is from generations gone by. What was amazing to me was I never had any problems finding anything in this large, somewhat cluttered store. Along with their diverse inventory, you also received immediate attention when you walked in the store. Not a peskey, salesy, know nothing type, but a subtle, quite, guide you along, by someone who knew the inventory and quickly grasped what was needed, and all along keeping a tally of your bill among others like you. No calculators here. Because this store is not in the most conveinent place, I found myself patronizing the store only when the big box stores didn't have what I needed, which did happen often, especially considering the wacky projects I sometimes get myself involved with. My lack of "loyalty" to this store was not purposeful, it wasn't even consciously known until now, until its almost gone. Today, I found myself there, there for some needed items for my listeroid project. Even though they were trying to clear the inventory at 30 to 50% off, the store clerks were just as attentive as always, going about their business as if almost nothing had change, still no calculator except at the checkout counter. My own thoughts were, in addition what I needed for my project, was "why didn't I shop here more often".

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum. Recently, I completed my research on practical ways to become less dependent on the grid. This has led me to the purchase of a 12-2 listeroid. Within 2 days of receiving it, I have it virtually completely stripped down, and am going through it piece by piece with the aid of George B's CD. I figured this is the sure way of gaining familiarity with the unit, and correct any manufacturing errors that may be present. This has led to my question concerning the diippers. The manual refers to a  scoop type part, this unit has dippers that are more similar to a flat head screwdriver tip. Looking into the crankcase through the access door, the left dipper was orientated with the broad side facing the door, The right is rotated at a 45 degree angle from the left dipper orientation, meaning the back broad face points to the center crankshaft bearing, and the front broad face points to the right of the access door. Are these orientated correctly. I look forward to any and all guidance you may offer.