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Topics - europachris

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Everything else / backup power for a sewage pump?
« on: August 28, 2006, 03:08:39 PM »
I have a small dilemma I need to solve.   How do I run a small (1/3 or 1/2 hp) sewage pump during power outages?  Basically, I think a UPS of somesort is required?  Do they have backup systems for existing sump pumps rather than the battery powered backup systems?

Our house has a downstairs bathroom in the basement.  It drains into a sealed crock along with the basement floor drain.  It then pumps up the water a few feet to the level of the line to the septic tank.

Well, the other day we had 4-1/2 inches of rain in a few hours.  Well, the wife went into the basement with bare feet and found a good size wet spot on the carpet by the closet where the pump is located.  Evidently at some point the power went out and there was water filling this crock somehow.  I do know that the water line and power line for the well pump leak where they pass through the poured foundation during very heavy rains.  I've tried to seal these with little results.  But, they are right by the floor drain so it's not a big issue.

I can only surmise that in the period the power was out that the crock overfilled and ran out on the floor.  I vacuumed up a gallon or two of water, and put the dehumidifier on the carpet to dry it out.  We don't use the bathroom for anything but hand washing and dog washing in the tub, and also the floor drain and water softener drain into this system, so it wasn't (fortuntately) full of sewage.

I need an automatic backup as we weren't home at the time to fire up the generator.  The pump only runs for a few seconds to empty the crock, so the power (kWh) requirements are very low. 

I also have a proper sump pump for the basement drainage, but it's dry as a bone at all times.



Hi, all.

Got around to making up some custom intake and exhaust manifolds for the R185.  Initial tests with mounting a Solberg 1-1/4 NPT thread air compressor silencer/filter on the stock manifold proved promising that it would reduce intake noise, but something still had to be done with the muffler.

I picked up a 'universal' fit NAPA muffler (fits a '87 Sentra) for about $27.  1-5/8 ID inlet and 1-1/2 ID outlet.  6" dia and about 15" long.

Picked up a chunk of 1-5/8" x .109 wall tubing and 3" wide x .125" strip from the local steel house and made up a intake and exhaust manifold and flanges.  It turned out pretty good for a first pass, and I'm a LOUSY welder.  Next time I'll have it TIG welded by a buddy.  That will save some grinding time....

I found a NAPA paint that matched the ChangFa paint pretty good for the intake pipe and used high temp aluminum paint for the exhaust.  Muffler is welded to the exhaust and there's a little brace that I welded from the rim of the muffler bottom to the horizontal portion of the manifold to help absorb the vibration.  Air filter is attached to the intake pipe with a piece of 1-1/2" ID radiator hose and two clamps, so it can flex a bit and take the vibration, also, which isn't bad at all.

Anyway, here are the videos:http://n9zes.zippyvideos.com/gallery.z

[edit:] It's not real obvious on the video, but the muffler did make a big difference.  The exhaust is just a low frequency PUFF PUFF PUFF sound now.  The problem is the mechanical noise of these ChangFa engines is louder than the intake and exhaust put together.  Overall, though, it's a big improvement and a worthwhile project!

There are also a few videos (for you diesel heads) of a Detroit powered snowblower at our local airport this past winter.  8V71 running the blower and a 6V53 running the chassis.  Sweet sound!



Lister Based Generators / Well pump starting help
« on: April 10, 2006, 01:29:41 AM »
Hi, everyone.  This isn't a strictly Lister question, but I'm having a problem starting my well pump with the generator.

Here's some pics of the setup: http://www.power-co.net/ilchris.htm.

It is a Changfa 185 engine and a Markon 3.2 KVA, 2 pole generator end.  The generator is rated for 13.3A at 240V and 26.6A at 120V.  It's a brushless design unit.  The drive system is industrial "L" section, 6 rib belt and pulleys.

I ran it up on 120V with about 2500 watts of load, part of that being a ShopVac, and it didn't even grunt.

I installed a Gen-Tran transfer switch yesterday, and hooked everything up that I'd like to keep powered during an outage, including the well pump.  The well pump is a Franklin 3/4 HP, 2 wire, 240V pump.  It's down about 140 feet.

So, to test the pump, I run the generator up to about 3650 rpm, which is about 1900 on the engine.  I have all transfer switch loads off, and hit the pump breaker.  The meters both peg for each leg and the generator loads down a bit, and the pump just grunts and won't start.  I'm not sure if the drive belt is slipping or not, but it's properly tightened.

I know it's all wired correctly and I'm getting solid 240V from the generator.  The pump is rated at 6.5A running current, so I have double that from the generator, not taking into account starting currents.  The generator should be good for 26A at 240 for peak motor starting.

I didn't put a meter on the line to see how far the generator loaded down, as I didn't want to fry the pump or blowout the thrust bearing, but it's definitely loading down by judging how the few electronic ballast fluorescents dimmed down while trying to start the pump.

Looking at the Franklin literature, it does appear my generator is marginal for starting a 2-wire, 240V pump.  If it was a 3-wire pump I'd be OK.  Not knowing the difference between 2 and 3 wire, 240V pumps (not 1 vs. 3 phase, either), I don't know if there is anything to add (like the motor starting 'boosters') to help out the starting of the pump.

It's kind of a bummer, as that was the whole reason I built this generator up.  The gen head I already had for several years at another house, but needed a bigger engine to get the most of it.  Now it appears that I need a bigger gen head to go with the 185!

Thanks for any help, gang!


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