Hi guys

We've had a couple of tough years in 2020 and 2021 worldwide in many ways

I guess lots of us are of an age where we have children and grandchildren all over the place - and it looks as if the new covid variant is spreading just in time for Christmas in many countries

Just wanted to say I hope everyone's families are safe and well over the holidays.  Cheers

See pics?

I have been looking at needle valves and they're not cheap

But gravity-feed isn't demanding and so a cheap Chinese one might do the trick?

I attach a link - should be easy to google


https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=3128518899

Cheers

Check out the link

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=3076626868&member_hash=a3a7566550fad4bdc4224f94f4401662016de7c29f5cc5555c&tm=email&et=46&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

I have put in a bid and will chase these along.  I suspect they're worth having just for the couple of pairs of SOM flywheels . . .

I'd be interested in any observations, thanks

I don’t know that anyone cares about this – but anyway

This is prototype Mk3.  Its burner is effectively the same as previous ones I have built/modified/improved outside.  But for this one I cut out the piece of steel on the door of my woodstove which houses the rotary damper, made an adaptor to attach the burner to it, and linked the two units with a swept 100mm stainless steel bend

The unit has three primary air holes: two at 12mm diameter and one at 15mm – so you can fine-tune the air supply – 12mm/15mm/24mm/27mm/39mm cross section – just by closing them off.  Perhaps in the future I will siamese them and put a valve?  Or perhaps one big hole with a valve will do – we’ll see

It fires up instantly and burns clean and crisp.  If I let it get the stainless steel section glowing it does some exponential burn thing like a diesel runaway – so ideal is with the bottom of the stainless just glowing

Now that I know it is controllable & consistent, I’m building Mk4 with a slightly different curved intake pipe to direct the flow of hot gas a little differently to heat the top of the woodstove better if it will

Progress, I guess

See images?

And a couple of vids:

https://studio.youtube.com/video/2eEL7Wv2tb0/edit/basic
and
https://studio.youtube.com/video/COoCdSRyby0/edit/basic

See 30-sec video YouTube link if anyone is interested

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrPAqyuBNcI

This is a Mk2 version of the prototype and it seems to do the things I'd like it to do:

Burn clean-ish and consistently with no energy input other than oil.  Start and run pretty much without smell or fumes.  Put out lots of heat and provide a "cook-top" with hotter and cooler surface areas.  Use a reasonable amount of oil

Pictures & short video tell the story, really

It burned 1.2 litres of oil in an hour and eight minutes.  I got it warmed-up, filled the little oil reservoir, set the flow to a pencil-lead sort of cross-section, set the timer on the phone and wandered off to do some other work.  It ran steadily and consistently for an hour and eight minutes without any intervention from me

I have made the "up-draft" burn chamber thingie with a 100mm BSPTM thread on top so it can just come off to be tinkered with

The flue thingie is on a flange so I can change it at will.  I put in a TEE with an 80mm drain bung on the bottom to facilitate cleaning.  It's 100mm flue atm - I'd anticipate going to conventional 6"/150mm flue sections if it works well-enough to end up in the shed

My observation, fwiw, is that this thing and its ilk are basically just one big draft/flue - it doesn't like interruptions such as a baffle I trial-fitted; but I have been starting it by tipping in about half a coffee-mug of a 50/50 diesel/petrol mix & lighting it with the butane torch.  It lights with a bit of a "whump" and the expanding gases shoot through and up and out the chimney with an immediate "roar" and it establishes a solid draft which continues as I turn on the oil a couple of minutes later; and it just burns happily away

Next step is to try it on various dilutions of the heavy oil of which I have tonnes - and then tinker with a Mk3 that might look a bit "nicer".  Might

Cheers

INJECTORS

Because some of the older big machines such as Blackstone/Miirlees have fallen under the “Lister” label in recent decades – I might just put these in “Lister” and in “Other”

I wonder if someone has a use for them?

I have four large Bryce/Lucas-Bryce NTDOB injectors – complete and still sealed in plastic-wrap and original boxes from what looks like a factory overhaul.  They were part of a larger auction and I would say they have originally been “spares” inventory somewhere like a municipality or a hospital where a large Polar engine or something like that has been working

I would guess the pictures tell the story, really?

Perhaps these would be useful to someone restoring or working an older large machine – I think this NTDOB (and possibly related/possible overlap NTCLB and NTDLB) series of injectors are from large individual-cylinder two-stroke diesels – but I stand to be corrected

It also seemed to me that injectors such as these in good condition might represent an opportunity for someone to machine an adaptor-sleeve to use them in a non-original application?

Stamped into the injector is the Bryce code:
“BRYCE WZ NTDOB175HO464

The boxes say “99-5367-7241” and that’s a coding number for parts that have had a military application in some way – perhaps a marine engine or a large generator/power plant?

99-5367-7241 is an American NSN (National Stock Number) in Federal Supply Group (FSG) 28, and Federal Supply Class (FSC) 2815 & FSC 2910
NSN listing part number 99-357 also references a listing #U1614

99-5367-7241 is also on the NATO Parts list in categories DRN2910 & DRN4780 as: part #2815-99-536-7241 “Injector assy F” also mentioning parts numbers OD28674 and K8098

In Britain they’re referenced with part # “8715” which is a Defence and Aerospace listing under the UK NIIN (National Item Identification Number) 995367241
UK NIN also references part numbers OD28674, 2815995367241 and 995362741

Bryce says applications include Miirlees Blackstone and Lister Blackstone engine-type ERS MGR two-stroke diesels and Wichmann AX engine-type diesels

I’d be relaxed about mailing these anywhere they may be needed.  I guess each box might weigh two or three KGs?

I guess anyone interested could message me?  Cheers

Hi guys

I talked about this a wee while ago when I was building/assembling bit

My objective is/was to understand the process so that I could build something that works well & burns cleanly.  So this contraption isn't attractive - it's just a "proof of concept".  Some of the bits, such as the burner bowl, are just tacked in place for convenience, and the whole thing is put together with flanges & 16mm bolts so I could assemble it safely in the paddock by my shed

In the end I only gave it two ten or fifteen minute burns - enough to get an initial handle on the "tuning" so that I can build a "Mark 11"

Objectives:  A controllable process.  A drip-feed (or possibly a cheap peristalitic pump).  No blower (off-grid-friendly).  Clean burn

All I did was watch about 50 videos to get a handle on what worked and then built one with easy options for controlling primary air, a guess at secondary air and a big 40mm tube with a gate valve on the end for adjustable tertiary air

The big hot chamber bit above the heater tube has baffles so the "burn" has to flow around a few things to shed some heat

Specs:

Burn pot is just a bit of 200mm diameter steel tube about 60mm deep with a bottom welded in.  All the random plumbing shit in the front is just me playing with a temp oil feed.  There are two 15mm primary air holes - plus whatever leaks in around the drip feed and where the bowl is just tacked to its mount.  Once it's up and burning I cut the primary air feed back to a single 8mm orifice

Tube and secondary air is just a 400mm-odd length of 100mm pipe with sixteen X 16mm holes in it.  Just a guess.  Seems about right. 

Tertiary air feed at the top of the burn tube/bottom of the hot chamber is a 40mm BSP socket welded in.  I attached about 500mm of threaded pipe with a gate valve on the end just so it was well away from hot bits while adjusting

I have attached a couple pics and links to three very short youtube vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

See very short burn video

https://studio.youtube.com/video/5TO1d7GITzk/edit

and very very short flue - clean heat haze video

https://studio.youtube.com/video/H9qSTerqfEk/edit

And very quick look down into fire

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

Performance:  I have hard data lol

I put 1.8 litres of cold water (13 degrees) into the copper kettle which has a flat 150mm diameter bottom, and put it onto the flat 12mm plate top of the burn chamber before lighting the burner from dead cold.  Ambient air temp probably same as the water at 13 degrees?

The little temp oil tank takes 1.17 litres of oil.  In this case waste AWS 32/46 hydraulic oil

It used 900ml of oil to raise the water to a rolling boil that was lifting the lid off the kettle and when I lifted it off the thermometer says 84 degrees

So:  900ml of oil burnt from stone cold to raise 1.8 litres of water 71 degrees.  Took about 5/ten mins?  I'd guess it'd take a third of that if you put the kettle on when the top plate was hot?

My cheap point-and-squirt thermometer only goes to 380 degrees centigrade and, after about 5 mins burning, everything was just maxing it out.  I guess the red heater tube is about 450+ celcius?

There's good stuff to learn here

Conclusion?  It looks do-able to have a smoke-free, clean-exhaust burn