Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - mikenash

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6

Waste Motor Oil / Waste oil burner Mk11 prototype working reliably-ish

« on: August 01, 2020, 03:36:27 AM »

See 30-sec video YouTube link if anyone is interested

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrPAqyuBNcI

This is a Mk2 version of the prototype and it seems to do the things I'd like it to do:

Burn clean-ish and consistently with no energy input other than oil. Start and run pretty much without smell or fumes. Put out lots of heat and provide a "cook-top" with hotter and cooler surface areas. Use a reasonable amount of oil

Pictures & short video tell the story, really

It burned 1.2 litres of oil in an hour and eight minutes. I got it warmed-up, filled the little oil reservoir, set the flow to a pencil-lead sort of cross-section, set the timer on the phone and wandered off to do some other work. It ran steadily and consistently for an hour and eight minutes without any intervention from me

I have made the "up-draft" burn chamber thingie with a 100mm BSPTM thread on top so it can just come off to be tinkered with

The flue thingie is on a flange so I can change it at will. I put in a TEE with an 80mm drain bung on the bottom to facilitate cleaning. It's 100mm flue atm - I'd anticipate going to conventional 6"/150mm flue sections if it works well-enough to end up in the shed

My observation, fwiw, is that this thing and its ilk are basically just one big draft/flue - it doesn't like interruptions such as a baffle I trial-fitted; but I have been starting it by tipping in about half a coffee-mug of a 50/50 diesel/petrol mix & lighting it with the butane torch. It lights with a bit of a "whump" and the expanding gases shoot through and up and out the chimney with an immediate "roar" and it establishes a solid draft which continues as I turn on the oil a couple of minutes later; and it just burns happily away

Next step is to try it on various dilutions of the heavy oil of which I have tonnes - and then tinker with a Mk3 that might look a bit "nicer". Might

Cheers

Lister Based Generators / what have I got here

« on: July 30, 2020, 02:19:16 AM »

Perhaps SOM bits in a new box?

I'd appreciate any thoughts

Cheers

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Bryce injectors

« on: July 29, 2020, 01:11:25 AM »

INJECTORS

Because some of the older big machines such as Blackstone/Miirlees have fallen under the “Lister” label in recent decades – I might just put these in “Lister” and in “Other”

I wonder if someone has a use for them?

I have four large Bryce/Lucas-Bryce NTDOB injectors – complete and still sealed in plastic-wrap and original boxes from what looks like a factory overhaul. They were part of a larger auction and I would say they have originally been “spares” inventory somewhere like a municipality or a hospital where a large Polar engine or something like that has been working

I would guess the pictures tell the story, really?

Perhaps these would be useful to someone restoring or working an older large machine – I think this NTDOB (and possibly related/possible overlap NTCLB and NTDLB) series of injectors are from large individual-cylinder two-stroke diesels – but I stand to be corrected

It also seemed to me that injectors such as these in good condition might represent an opportunity for someone to machine an adaptor-sleeve to use them in a non-original application?

Stamped into the injector is the Bryce code:
“BRYCE WZ NTDOB175HO464

The boxes say “99-5367-7241” and that’s a coding number for parts that have had a military application in some way – perhaps a marine engine or a large generator/power plant?

99-5367-7241 is an American NSN (National Stock Number) in Federal Supply Group (FSG) 28, and Federal Supply Class (FSC) 2815 & FSC 2910
NSN listing part number 99-357 also references a listing #U1614

99-5367-7241 is also on the NATO Parts list in categories DRN2910 & DRN4780 as: part #2815-99-536-7241 “Injector assy F” also mentioning parts numbers OD28674 and K8098

In Britain they’re referenced with part # “8715” which is a Defence and Aerospace listing under the UK NIIN (National Item Identification Number) 995367241
UK NIN also references part numbers OD28674, 2815995367241 and 995362741

Bryce says applications include Miirlees Blackstone and Lister Blackstone engine-type ERS MGR two-stroke diesels and Wichmann AX engine-type diesels

I’d be relaxed about mailing these anywhere they may be needed. I guess each box might weigh two or three KGs?

I guess anyone interested could message me? Cheers

Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Bryce Injectors

« on: July 29, 2020, 01:08:34 AM »

INJECTORS

Because some of the older big machines such as Blackstone/Miirlees have fallen under the “Lister” label in recent decades – I might just put these in “Lister” and in “Other”

I wonder if someone has a use for them?

I have four large Bryce/Lucas-Bryce NTDOB injectors – complete and still sealed in plastic-wrap and original boxes from what looks like a factory overhaul. They were part of a larger auction and I would say they have originally been “spares” inventory somewhere like a municipality or a hospital where a large Polar engine or something like that has been working

I would guess the pictures tell the story, really?

Perhaps these would be useful to someone restoring or working an older large machine – I think this NTDOB (and possibly related/possible overlap NTCLB and NTDLB) series of injectors are from large individual-cylinder two-stroke diesels – but I stand to be corrected

It also seemed to me that injectors such as these in good condition might represent an opportunity for someone to machine an adaptor-sleeve to use them in a non-original application?

Stamped into the injector is the Bryce code:
“BRYCE WZ NTDOB175HO464

The boxes say “99-5367-7241” and that’s a coding number for parts that have had a military application in some way – perhaps a marine engine or a large generator/power plant?

99-5367-7241 is an American NSN (National Stock Number) in Federal Supply Group (FSG) 28, and Federal Supply Class (FSC) 2815 & FSC 2910

NSN listing part number 99-357 also references a listing #U1614

99-5367-7241 is also on the NATO Parts list in categories DRN2910 & DRN4780 as: part #2815-99-536-7241 “Injector assy F” also mentioning parts numbers OD28674 and K8098

In Britain they’re referenced with part # “8715” which is a Defence and Aerospace listing under the UK NIIN (National Item Identification Number) 995367241
UK NIN also references part numbers OD28674, 2815995367241 and 995362741

Bryce says applications include Miirlees Blackstone and Lister Blackstone engine-type ERS MGR two-stroke diesels and Wichmann AX engine-type diesels

I’d be relaxed about mailing these anywhere they may be needed. I guess each box might weigh two or three KGs?

I guess anyone interested could message me? Cheers

Waste Motor Oil / waste oil burner "ozzirt" type. Works well

« on: June 14, 2020, 08:50:59 AM »

Hi guys

I talked about this a wee while ago when I was building/assembling bit

My objective is/was to understand the process so that I could build something that works well & burns cleanly. So this contraption isn't attractive - it's just a "proof of concept". Some of the bits, such as the burner bowl, are just tacked in place for convenience, and the whole thing is put together with flanges & 16mm bolts so I could assemble it safely in the paddock by my shed

In the end I only gave it two ten or fifteen minute burns - enough to get an initial handle on the "tuning" so that I can build a "Mark 11"

Objectives: A controllable process. A drip-feed (or possibly a cheap peristalitic pump). No blower (off-grid-friendly). Clean burn

All I did was watch about 50 videos to get a handle on what worked and then built one with easy options for controlling primary air, a guess at secondary air and a big 40mm tube with a gate valve on the end for adjustable tertiary air

The big hot chamber bit above the heater tube has baffles so the "burn" has to flow around a few things to shed some heat

Specs:

Burn pot is just a bit of 200mm diameter steel tube about 60mm deep with a bottom welded in. All the random plumbing shit in the front is just me playing with a temp oil feed. There are two 15mm primary air holes - plus whatever leaks in around the drip feed and where the bowl is just tacked to its mount. Once it's up and burning I cut the primary air feed back to a single 8mm orifice

Tube and secondary air is just a 400mm-odd length of 100mm pipe with sixteen X 16mm holes in it. Just a guess. Seems about right.

Tertiary air feed at the top of the burn tube/bottom of the hot chamber is a 40mm BSP socket welded in. I attached about 500mm of threaded pipe with a gate valve on the end just so it was well away from hot bits while adjusting

I have attached a couple pics and links to three very short youtube vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

See very short burn video

https://studio.youtube.com/video/5TO1d7GITzk/edit

and very very short flue - clean heat haze video

https://studio.youtube.com/video/H9qSTerqfEk/edit

And very quick look down into fire

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImcuhlNG9sU

Performance: I have hard data lol

I put 1.8 litres of cold water (13 degrees) into the copper kettle which has a flat 150mm diameter bottom, and put it onto the flat 12mm plate top of the burn chamber before lighting the burner from dead cold. Ambient air temp probably same as the water at 13 degrees?

The little temp oil tank takes 1.17 litres of oil. In this case waste AWS 32/46 hydraulic oil

It used 900ml of oil to raise the water to a rolling boil that was lifting the lid off the kettle and when I lifted it off the thermometer says 84 degrees

So: 900ml of oil burnt from stone cold to raise 1.8 litres of water 71 degrees. Took about 5/ten mins? I'd guess it'd take a third of that if you put the kettle on when the top plate was hot?

My cheap point-and-squirt thermometer only goes to 380 degrees centigrade and, after about 5 mins burning, everything was just maxing it out. I guess the red heater tube is about 450+ celcius?

There's good stuff to learn here

Conclusion? It looks do-able to have a smoke-free, clean-exhaust burn

Engines / LR/SR marine twin engine

« on: June 07, 2020, 08:58:44 PM »

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2654164526&tm=email&et=47&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

Hi guys

A couple interesting pictures in the TradeMe listing for this very original-looking engine. Just thought I'd flag it here in case there is anything to be learned from pics

Cheers

Generators / What do knowledgeable folks think?

« on: April 14, 2020, 11:16:43 PM »

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2597330893&tm=email&et=47&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

Hi guys

I wonder what folks know about/think of this unit? The diesel looks to my untrained eye to be a bit like some of the ones you guys have talked about here

It's an open-drive unit, so the gen-head could be re-purposed if the price was right, I imagine

Looking at the 32A outlet and the three 10A breakers maybe at a 50% duty it's 2kVA-ish three phase (if it has 10A breakers then maybe it runs at, say, 5A: (5A X 400V = 2000W) ? Or twice that at 100%? I'm just thinking what "starting current"-type peak load it would need that it has a 32A outlet as opposed to a 16A one?

Of course my diagnostic skills in this area are crap - and the photos aren't that easy to read eaither

I look forward to being informed/put right/enlightened

Thanks

Waste Motor Oil / Okey-dokey. Trying to burn waste oil

« on: April 06, 2020, 10:01:09 AM »

I need to give kudos to a bloke called Ozzirt (I think he might be Irish) as permutations of his drip-feed, no-fan, no visible emissions, no smoke inside burners are all over the world and all over YouTube

Principle is simple, as stated. If you have a bit of steel/iron/metal that's close to red-hot and if you drip oil onto it - then the oil will vapourise. If you have a flame there and a just-right draft, the oil fumes will burn like bloody wildfire - and burn hot and clean by the look of things

The secret to it seems to be creating a good draft - using a long flue, basically - and using that draft to suck controlled amounts of air into the thing so that there's a good fire keeping the drip-plate-thingie hot, and a bunch of secondary-burn air-holes at strategic spots to get a raging column of burning oil fumes heating up a big metal something on their way to the flue. The big metal something - the "stove" bit (designs vary from a bit of heavy pipe to 100-litre compressed-air receivers - and everything in between) radiates heat into whatever area.

Temperatures seem to be in the range of 900-1000 degrees F at the top of the burner pot area and maybe 400-700 F at various parts of the big heat-radiating "stove" bit

There are as many design schools as there are builders, and different versions of secondary air feeds abound - but there's a lot of overlap

So over the recent couple of weeks while my perk-disliking boss has been "working from home" I have come into the shop at six every morning and gotten in 90 mins work building myself one of these before anyone else turns up

The Domestic Authority isn't keen to be tripping over big bits of pipe shit in the garage (and who can blame her) so the bits are sitting on a pallet out in the paddock in the traditional "under the Macrocapa Trees" site

Because they're out in the weather I gave them a coat of zinc primer and a coat of black enamel (which will burn off and stink/smoke like buggery hen it's fired). I wish I had photographed it before painting - but too late now. The black makes it hard to see detail

Anyway - pics attached

Main features are:

Body ex 250mm NB pipe with 8mm wall and 12mm top plate and 6mm wall 125mm swept elbow bend to flue cos there was one in the workdhop. Crude baffles in the body to hopefully extract some heat before it goes up the flue

At the junction of the top of the burner tube/bottom of the body, there's an up-angled 40mm air intake with a section of 40mm pipe and a brass gate valve (the 600mm of pipe is just to keep the gate valve away from the hot stuff) so I can have a tinker with a tertiary air intake if it's good or just plug it with a 40mm BSP bung if it ain't

There's a funny stub-and-flange sticking out the other side. That's cos I need to mount it out in the paddock miles from anything flammable and I have a post with a suitable flange for that to mate to in a suitable location. So it'll be kinda "free-standing" so as to be easy to muck about with

Hanging below the body is a section of 100mm SC40 steel pipe with a bunch of holes (secondary burn section). I figure I may have to drill more holes but I figured drilling extra ones later was easier (out int he paddock) than welding up surplus ones later. On the bottom of that there's a flange where the burn chamber/pot bolts to the underside of it - just 4 X M16 bolts atm cos I don't want to do one of the many quick-release designs in the development stages in case it self-releases and sprays burning shit everywhere

On the top of that flange there are welded 3 X 15mm sockets (temporarily blocked with 3 X 15mm steel bungs so I can have one, two or three primary air holes

There's a bunch of 15mm/20mm plumbing to facilitate dripping one or two sources of oil into the pot (I don't like the copper-pipe-flapping-around look) an I have valving and plumbing etc "ready to roll"

It's a prototype. I guess it owes me 10/15 hours and zero $$

Hopefully I'll get to do some burns with it in the next few months - firstly to validate/disprove/fine-tune the design; secondly to have a play with the heavy oil of which I have a potentially almost limitless supply

We'll see what happens. As always, there is much to learn

Waste Motor Oil / Drip-feed waste-oil burner hopefully

« on: April 06, 2020, 09:21:38 AM »

I talked a little the other day about waste-oil and a burner

Coming up in a few minutes is a wee blurb and some pics

Lots of you guys know a bit about this sort of stuff - so I figure there's plenty to learn

But first: a year or two ago I rambled on about building a heavy steel woodstove in my shed/workshop/house/whatever it is

My boss had a big Safety-in-Employment drive and threw all my perks out of the workshop (I am much safer now, thanks) so it got carted up to the Bay of Plenty and installed without some of the internal baffling. "One Day"

Despite that it runs fine and it's very satisfying to sit in front of of an evening digesting dinner cooked on the top of it and listening to the fire muttering to itself and the kettle hissing quietly just "off the boil" in the cooler corner away from the flue

Just thought I'd attach a pic of that one. It's not "signed off" yet because there is still internal work to do - but it's producing heat and very hot water in the cylinder & cooking my dinner. So that's almost a "win"

Waste Motor Oil / filtration by "settling out"

« on: March 28, 2020, 04:19:18 AM »

Here at work we generate several tonnes of waste oil each year. This year I would like to harvest some of it

One of these days I'd like to have an oil-burning drip-feed heater (and yes, I think I'm cogniscent of the pitfalls/problems around how temp changes viscosity, how they can't be left to run unattended etc etc) because I think my circumstances will suit one AND I have, potentially, a LOT of oil

I made a prototype a while back and have just about finished building Mk11 at work with some options to control primary, secondary & tertiary air intakes - hope to do some trial burns when this Covid shit is over and life can resume

So today at work I welded in a 40mm BSP socket to the side of an empty 44-gallon (200 litre) drum about 150mm (six inches) above the bottom. I'll use the air-pump oil-transfer thingie to fill it up next week at work

What I reckon/hope/wonder is this:

My observation is that the oil is pretty non-hygroscopic. When I drain gearboxes first you get a stream of clear water, then a stream of clean oil. You don't get any white stuff

So I'm hoping that if it sits in a drum for a few years, that any water and whatever "dirt" is in there (no combustion by-products are present) will simply "settle out" and if I write off the bottom six inches by just draining it down to the new bung on the side - I might end up with quite a "clean" product

It has been bothering me for years that we just throw this stuff away by giving it to the recyclers. It seems to me it's potentially a resource I should be harvesting. There's probably nothing to stop me welding a socket in a heap of drums and harvesting a tonne or two

I'd be interested in any thoughts from folks who are experienced in dealing with "waste" oils

Cheers

Original Lister Cs Engines / Big funny piston rings

« on: March 28, 2020, 03:53:21 AM »

Hi guys

Our local machinist just failed Common Sense 101 (or at least his worker did)

I bought a 5slash6/1 recently with a long history of hard work on the farm. Bottom end started out as a 3/1 maybe in the late '30s . . .

When I tore it down it turned out to have a +40 thou alloy piston (kinda an 8/1 now i guess) and the top ring groove was pretty worn. I managed to buy some ring groove spacers in a suitable size as the 4&1/2 inch piston size was common in Bedford trucks & some other a half-century ago

So I calculated the clearance etc for the ring+spacer, WROTE IT ON THE PISTON WITH A PICTURE and gave it to the machinist we use at work. He as been bloody good up until now

For whatever reason, he left it to a worker to do who mistook the vertical dimension for a lateral dimension and machined what could only be called A Very Big Groove into the piston

By the time I got it back it was one of those "what's done is done" situations

His solution was to accept that the piston now has a very big ring groove and to get a Very Big Ring machined by a bloke who makes one-off piston rings . . .

See pics?

What do you guys reckon the implications are? I'd be interested to hear from some experienced folks

Cheers

Original Lister Cs Engines / waddya reckon?

« on: February 14, 2020, 07:38:58 AM »

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2532087845

There might be some life left in the oily one?

General Discussion / Welders

« on: October 22, 2019, 07:13:38 AM »

Hey Bruce (and others)

We talked about home welders & related stuff a while back - probably in the context of "what machine do I need?" So maybe there is some value in the following thoughts:

See pics?

This is the little single-phase welder I use all the time out of my service truck running off the generator you see in the pic (see detail, nominally a 7500W machine). This welder likes the generator and runs just fine off it

One of our suppliers has a slightly different variant of the 16TC 7016 Low Hydrogen electrodes I normally use for everything and I bought a box to have a play and did a rough test-piece (see pic detail)

Tomorrow when its cool I'll cut some slices off it and attack them with the press and the sledge-hammer so see if there are any faults

The test piece is an inch thick and used about 3 or four pounds of electrodes (to use American dimensions) and the little welder did a close-to-100% duty cycle - just the time taken to swap electrodes and chip/wire brush as it's only down-time - running at about 60/70% of its nominal 170A capacity

The point I wanted to make is that, while current ratings are a bit nominal, I started off the first ten or fifteen runs at 125A and the final five or six at 100A as the piece got hot and I was working closer to the surface

I'm a fan of these inexpensive (but not "cheap") Chinese-sourced, Australian-branded welders and the inexpensive (and only slightly cheap) Chinese Honda Clone generators

I'm expecting that if there are any faults in that test-piece they'll just be the result of a pretty causal approach on my part but that penetration etc will be good

FWIW I would conclude that - unless you're working on Serious Heavy Machinery - that a nominal 7500W (Chinese watts with a lot less torque than American/English/Lister watts) and a nominal 150A or so of welding capacity is plenty for most applications

Maybe the DC output is 30 or 35V? On that basis, say, 150A is kinda 5000watts? Whatever the arc-striking current draw is at 125A, it seems to be well within the range of the nominal 7500W Chinese generator

Cheers

Generators / uni-lectric

« on: October 19, 2019, 02:28:50 AM »

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2362208006&member_hash=a3a7566550fad4bdc4224f94f4401662016de7c29f5cc5555c&tm=email&et=46&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

Check out this little beauty

It looks as if it has been somebody's baby

Maybe a liquid-cooled single with a hopper above? Looks kinda two-stroke-ish in the cylinder area

Original Lister Cs Engines / Lost 38AC stuff on Camshaft Understanding

« on: September 12, 2019, 08:39:21 AM »

Okey-dokey

When I bought a CS a while ago in which the cam turned out to have been installed 90 degrees out of whack - several folk here gave me good practical advice, for which I continue to be very grateful

In the course of gaining an understanding I cut-and-pasted all the dialogue back-and-forth from Butch' thread on Camshaft Understanding and saved it as a word doc. Then I deleted all the redundancies, re-quoted bits, random anecdotes etc (an illuminating process as 90% of the text contributed nothing except to show that we humans are the sort of animal that enjoys communication QED, I think)

I attach the doc here

Ade - is it OK to do this? It's not violating the spirit of whatever Butch was wanting to do when he removed his texts? If it is - please just delete

I'll be surprised if others haven't done similar with other thread stuff

Cheers