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Topics - mikenash

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
Original Lister Cs Engines / Electric starter for 6/1
« on: July 11, 2022, 10:27:27 PM »
Hey guys there has been a conversation here on-and-off about various starters for CSs Ė some elegant air motors, some starter-motor conversions with rubber cush drives, various units employing a belt . . .

Realising that, sooner or later, Iím going to get too old to crank the Listers, Iíve been keen to build a starter and have been working away with some components

I tack-welded some of the bits together yesterday and attached it to the CS with some G-clamps and gave it a trial run just using a battery off my car, some heavy jumper leads and a bit of wire with a spade clip to liven-up the starter motor.

See pics?  Itís pretty self-explanatory.  What the parts are is:

A starter motor and flex-plate off an old Nissan car from the wreckers.

A 2Ē keyed taper-lock unit with a weld boss outer assembly, plus a hand cut/filed stepped key and a couple of grub-screw holes cut and threaded into the boss.

A bit of 10mm plate roughly cut round, bolted to the flex plate, then put in a chuck and bored to suit the weld boss of the taper-lock.

The starter-motor bolted onto a mount to suit; and that mount welded onto the chassis that supports the CS

It was raining cats-and-dogs yesterday so all I did was tack it in place and use it to start the Lister three or four times with the de-compression at the exhaust valve engaged, then dropped once the revs were up after about three or four rotations.

Works like a charm.  I got sick of getting wet before I gave it a try with full compression Ė I donít know if Iíd normally do that, anyway, as it seems unnecessarily hard on the gear; and itíll be easy to mount a starter button somewhere near the pushrod side of the motor.

I reckon costs were something like:

Starter motor & ring-gear/flex-plate - $50
Taper-lock insert and weld boss - $80
Machine boss-sized hole in plate - $50
Bits of steel, welding & bolts scrounged at zero cost

This week, hopefully, Iíll weld stuff together properly and give it a better run on the next weekend Iím up there.  Cheers

2
Lister Based Generators / 6/1 driving ST clone 260 VAC
« on: May 17, 2022, 11:04:28 PM »
Hi guys

Thanks for your advice recently re the Chinese ST head

I temp-fitted it to the CS last weekend with a flat-belt drive

At 650-ish RPMs it was making something like a scary 380 VAC.  I lowered the engine speed in stages until at 528 RPM on the Lister it was producing a no-load 260 VAC.  No idea what the waveform will be like - that's a question for another day

See link attached for a short video of it running?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/TC9fY1mfnfs

The Youtube guys have done a better-than-normal job of reducing the video quality to "awful" - but what the hell

I'm calling it the beginnings of a "win" and have taken that head off and put it aside for the moment to have a play with my Markon head which is a much nicer unit, to see what that will do

Whatever the relationship with these Chinese STs is between RPMs and VAC - it doesn't seem to be linear.

Once I have had a play with the Markon I can re-mount the ST-clone and find something with an oscilloscope and a Hz meter to give me some more to work with if I like

Thanks for all the various advice on this

I will have some stupid questions to ask re the Markon head, I'm sure; as it has just four identical unmarked black wires coming out of it lol.  I have it on the bench atm checking to see where there's continuity and what the resistance is between the various wires for some clues

Cheers

3
Original Lister Cs Engines / head gaskets
« on: April 27, 2022, 01:37:29 AM »
Bought four CS head gaskets from the nice Gaskets-to-go chap

They look like a great bit of work

4
Original Lister Cs Engines / A "good runner"
« on: March 28, 2022, 10:47:38 PM »
Hi guys

Iím looking for a second opinion on my diagnostics please.

Iím currently working on a CS I bought a while back from the widow of a bloke who collected and ďrestoredĒ old engines and tractors.  It was described to me as a ďgood runnerĒ and, once I cleaned out all the old gunged-up fuel, it ran fine

The other weekend I hooked up a temporary water supply.  I wanted to give it a longer run to get it up to temperature for an oil-change & to tinker with the diesel supply.

I just screwed in some 40mm fittings to the top and bottom flanges with a water feed running in the bottom and flowing open-ended out the top, and a valve to control the bottom flow so the water at the top was coming out warm.  I dismantled & drained this when I was finished.

This weekend when I went up there and turned it over backwards to engage the valve-lifter Ė water dribbled out of the exhaust - just an egg-cup-full maybe.

(Just a note that both intake & exhaust have downward-facing pipe bends so itís not rainwater).  I turned it over a few times, then started it and it ran fine after some initial smoking.

I would guess I have a leak in the head-gasket.  I have just now sent off to Gaskets-to-Go for some replacements; and Iíll take the head off for a look next time Iím on site.

I guess itís possible there is damage to the head or block?  I would guess, also, that any running it has done in recent years has probably just been a minute or two Ė thereís no evidence of any cooling plumbing having been attached to it recently.

Also I have been unable to get it to run properly on the low-compression setting.  It starts beautifully on the high-compression, but just smokes and hammers and seems to have only partial compression when the valve is screwed-out.  I took the change-over valve out and it came undone suspiciously easily.  Looking at it, I think it may have been made up from two mis-matched halves?

I have a new one to fit anyway; but I just mention it in case thereís a history of castings cracking in that area or some such.

Iíd appreciate any thoughts.  Cheers, Mike

5
Original Lister Cs Engines / original CS wick filters
« on: March 20, 2022, 09:43:31 PM »
Hi guys - see pics

The CS which I'm playing with atm came with this.

I bought it from the widow of the "restorer" who described it as a "good runner" and indeed it seems to be.  There's probably no real way of telling how much the restoration was limited to a coat of green paint or not - without getting inside it.

It had the traditional stale yellow thin oil/thick diesel discharge and the traditional "stale fuel" smell

But the insert looks to be in great shape, and I cleaned it out with aerosol brakleen until it was dripping clean all over

Are people still using these filters with 'working" engines?  I have a nice Ryco filter and water-drain setup - but using this old girl seemed to give a good convenient bleed point and access to the original fat-cross-section delivery tube with the big banjo fittings

It seemed to me that with a pre-filter and water-trap, keeping the original unit in the line might have merit?

Thoughts?  Cheers

6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Quick query
« on: February 28, 2022, 01:43:43 AM »
Hi Guys

I'm thinking that next time I'm up at the site where my Listers are I need to clean up the threads in the case where the four big cylinder/head studs go one one of my CSs

I'm just ratting through the box of taps & dies in my work truck - but I'm 400Ks away from the engine to check out thread and details - but I figure someone will know:

Are they 3/4 UNC?  And do the threaded stud holes go all the way through into the inside of the case (as in - do I need a bottoming tap?  or will any old tap do?)

Cheers, Mike

7
If you don't own a tractor or other means of lifting one of these heavy old girls - then we're probably on the same wavelength . . .

The one on the left has plagued me for the last year - issues with the bore, issues with a +40thou piston badly machined, issues with a cylinder stud . . . it had got to the stage where grass and weeds were growing up around its pad as I had no way to get it "off and out" and no way to get another one "in"

Then it came to me - I was looking at it all wrong: All that was needed was to drag the "new" CS - the one on the right - off the trailer and onto a pile of timber at the correct height - THEN all I had to do was weld in a couple of 500mm lengths of heavy channel to extend the RSJs of the original CS' mounts, and, voila!  Room for two engines lol

The "new" one (on the right) was sold to me as a "good runner, just not started for a few years" (and have I heard that phrase before)

But it feels like progress.  I managed to weld the sections in without setting fire to the diesel-soaked dead grass - that has to be a good omen lol

8
General Discussion / Chrstmas 2021
« on: December 18, 2021, 08:25:31 PM »
Hi guys

We've had a couple of tough years in 2020 and 2021 worldwide in many ways

I guess lots of us are of an age where we have children and grandchildren all over the place - and it looks as if the new covid variant is spreading just in time for Christmas in many countries

Just wanted to say I hope everyone's families are safe and well over the holidays.  Cheers

10
Waste Motor Oil / 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 13, 2021, 08:31:15 PM »
See pics?

I have been looking at needle valves and they're not cheap

But gravity-feed isn't demanding and so a cheap Chinese one might do the trick?

I attach a link - should be easy to google


https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=3128518899

Cheers

11
Original Lister Cs Engines / 6/1
« on: June 12, 2021, 03:40:06 AM »
Bought this fellow the other day and collected it this morning

Came from the estate of a chap who collected old engines and whose widow was clearing out the shed

Described as a "good runner" - might be true

Prices are funny . . .

I missed out on a not-particularly-good 3/1 a few months back that had sat in a shed and hadn't been run for 20 years - it went for $1500 to some insane person

This one I paid $600 for - which seems fair

If this is OK I should have two good runners, and two dismantled-but-probably-useable units and a bunch of spares

Apart from a set of grooved SOM wheels, I reckon I have all I need

12
Original Lister Cs Engines / couple of old SOMs
« on: May 02, 2021, 12:08:14 AM »
Check out the link

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=3076626868&member_hash=a3a7566550fad4bdc4224f94f4401662016de7c29f5cc5555c&tm=email&et=46&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

I have put in a bid and will chase these along.  I suspect they're worth having just for the couple of pairs of SOM flywheels . . .

I'd be interested in any observations, thanks

13
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Four large re-conditioned Bryce injects
« on: October 17, 2020, 03:21:08 AM »
I'm going to have another go at finding a home for these before they end up as scrap - they seem too good for that to my eye

I attach some images including a spec sheet and a sheet which referances the BRYCE code numbers stamped on the injectors and the code numbers on the spec sheet

Pictures show dimensions clearly

These are four large injectors still sealed in plastic and shipping boxes which look to me to have come back from some sort of factory rebuild process and to have sat on a shelf as spares ever since

I think they will have been in a large marine engine or similar engine driving a generator - possibly in a municipal or hospital backup supply type of operation

The numbers suggest they may be from a large POLAR-type multi-cylinder two-stroke engine

Because there is four of them, and because they're in excellent shape - it seemed to me perhaps that someone playing with a large engine for which he did not have an injector might consider it worthwhile to machine an adaptor to fit one of these to his application - and then have some spares as well

So excuse me while I have posted them here again - it seems to me it would be a waste to bin them; and perhaps someone here knows of someone working with a large engine who may benefit from them.  Thanks

14
Waste Motor Oil / Mk3 burner prototype running clean and pretty well
« on: October 09, 2020, 04:52:17 AM »
I donít know that anyone cares about this Ė but anyway

This is prototype Mk3.  Its burner is effectively the same as previous ones I have built/modified/improved outside.  But for this one I cut out the piece of steel on the door of my woodstove which houses the rotary damper, made an adaptor to attach the burner to it, and linked the two units with a swept 100mm stainless steel bend

The unit has three primary air holes: two at 12mm diameter and one at 15mm Ė so you can fine-tune the air supply Ė 12mm/15mm/24mm/27mm/39mm cross section Ė just by closing them off.  Perhaps in the future I will siamese them and put a valve?  Or perhaps one big hole with a valve will do Ė weíll see

It fires up instantly and burns clean and crisp.  If I let it get the stainless steel section glowing it does some exponential burn thing like a diesel runaway Ė so ideal is with the bottom of the stainless just glowing

Now that I know it is controllable & consistent, Iím building Mk4 with a slightly different curved intake pipe to direct the flow of hot gas a little differently to heat the top of the woodstove better if it will

Progress, I guess

See images?

And a couple of vids:

https://studio.youtube.com/video/2eEL7Wv2tb0/edit/basic
and
https://studio.youtube.com/video/COoCdSRyby0/edit/basic


15
Lister Based Generators / Two X big 105A alternators on the Lister CS
« on: August 12, 2020, 09:32:52 AM »
Hi guys

I have a kinda hybrid CS6/8 here which I'd like to use to drive a couple of big Leece-Neville truck alternators to charge a bunch of 12V batteries (Yes, I know the 12V has many limitations, but it's a legacy system with a single large-ish 12V panel and three small 12V inverters and a bunch of batteries - so it's a "use what you got" system)

I forget what I paid for the two alternators - it might have been $40, or maybe $40 each?  They were new-old-stock, still in their boxes and packaging.

See pics?  I have the two of them on a base I can weld above one flywheel of the CS and put a flat-surfaced idler between and below them (adjustable in a couple planes) to use as a tensioner

The alternators have straight-blade fans (not fitted atm - I just have pulleys on for alignment purposes) and info on line says they don't care which direction they rotate at

I don't have a lot of info on them other than what I find on line; but I think their max RPMs are 8000.  So with a 600mm CS flywheel and a driven pulley around 70mm, even at 600 revs they're gonna be fine

I'd appreciate any experience-based thoughts on mounting/belts etc.  The grooves are for an SPB belt, but will drive just fine with a B

See pics?  How do you reckon I need to wire the buggers?

One pic shows a label with the + and the - and the instruction "observe polarity" and the = and - terminals on the casting at the other ends from those on the sign.  I suspect the label may be generic

I have no idea at all what the various other small terminals are for.  Possibly I can ignore most of them

The brief, generic guidelines on several Leece Neville installation blurbs say the installation needs a switch/key in the circuit and also a 6W bulb (so there's a wee current for excitation, perhaps?)

Expertise welcome :)

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