I'm going to have another go at finding a home for these before they end up as scrap - they seem too good for that to my eye

I attach some images including a spec sheet and a sheet which referances the BRYCE code numbers stamped on the injectors and the code numbers on the spec sheet

Pictures show dimensions clearly

These are four large injectors still sealed in plastic and shipping boxes which look to me to have come back from some sort of factory rebuild process and to have sat on a shelf as spares ever since

I think they will have been in a large marine engine or similar engine driving a generator - possibly in a municipal or hospital backup supply type of operation

The numbers suggest they may be from a large POLAR-type multi-cylinder two-stroke engine

Because there is four of them, and because they're in excellent shape - it seemed to me perhaps that someone playing with a large engine for which he did not have an injector might consider it worthwhile to machine an adaptor to fit one of these to his application - and then have some spares as well

So excuse me while I have posted them here again - it seems to me it would be a waste to bin them; and perhaps someone here knows of someone working with a large engine who may benefit from them.  Thanks

Hi guys

I have a kinda hybrid CS6/8 here which I'd like to use to drive a couple of big Leece-Neville truck alternators to charge a bunch of 12V batteries (Yes, I know the 12V has many limitations, but it's a legacy system with a single large-ish 12V panel and three small 12V inverters and a bunch of batteries - so it's a "use what you got" system)

I forget what I paid for the two alternators - it might have been $40, or maybe $40 each?  They were new-old-stock, still in their boxes and packaging.

See pics?  I have the two of them on a base I can weld above one flywheel of the CS and put a flat-surfaced idler between and below them (adjustable in a couple planes) to use as a tensioner

The alternators have straight-blade fans (not fitted atm - I just have pulleys on for alignment purposes) and info on line says they don't care which direction they rotate at

I don't have a lot of info on them other than what I find on line; but I think their max RPMs are 8000.  So with a 600mm CS flywheel and a driven pulley around 70mm, even at 600 revs they're gonna be fine

I'd appreciate any experience-based thoughts on mounting/belts etc.  The grooves are for an SPB belt, but will drive just fine with a B

See pics?  How do you reckon I need to wire the buggers?

One pic shows a label with the + and the - and the instruction "observe polarity" and the = and - terminals on the casting at the other ends from those on the sign.  I suspect the label may be generic

I have no idea at all what the various other small terminals are for.  Possibly I can ignore most of them

The brief, generic guidelines on several Leece Neville installation blurbs say the installation needs a switch/key in the circuit and also a 6W bulb (so there's a wee current for excitation, perhaps?)

Expertise welcome

Perhaps SOM bits in a new box?

I'd appreciate any thoughts

Cheers

INJECTORS

Because some of the older big machines such as Blackstone/Miirlees have fallen under the “Lister” label in recent decades – I might just put these in “Lister” and in “Other”

I wonder if someone has a use for them?

I have four large Bryce/Lucas-Bryce NTDOB injectors – complete and still sealed in plastic-wrap and original boxes from what looks like a factory overhaul.  They were part of a larger auction and I would say they have originally been “spares” inventory somewhere like a municipality or a hospital where a large Polar engine or something like that has been working

I would guess the pictures tell the story, really?

Perhaps these would be useful to someone restoring or working an older large machine – I think this NTDOB (and possibly related/possible overlap NTCLB and NTDLB) series of injectors are from large individual-cylinder two-stroke diesels – but I stand to be corrected

It also seemed to me that injectors such as these in good condition might represent an opportunity for someone to machine an adaptor-sleeve to use them in a non-original application?

Stamped into the injector is the Bryce code:
“BRYCE WZ NTDOB175HO464

The boxes say “99-5367-7241” and that’s a coding number for parts that have had a military application in some way – perhaps a marine engine or a large generator/power plant?

99-5367-7241 is an American NSN (National Stock Number) in Federal Supply Group (FSG) 28, and Federal Supply Class (FSC) 2815 & FSC 2910

NSN listing part number 99-357 also references a listing #U1614

99-5367-7241 is also on the NATO Parts list in categories DRN2910 & DRN4780 as: part #2815-99-536-7241 “Injector assy F” also mentioning parts numbers OD28674 and K8098

In Britain they’re referenced with part # “8715” which is a Defence and Aerospace listing under the UK NIIN (National Item Identification Number) 995367241
UK NIN also references part numbers OD28674, 2815995367241 and 995362741

Bryce says applications include Miirlees Blackstone and Lister Blackstone engine-type ERS MGR two-stroke diesels and Wichmann AX engine-type diesels

I’d be relaxed about mailing these anywhere they may be needed.  I guess each box might weigh two or three KGs?

I guess anyone interested could message me?  Cheers

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2654164526&tm=email&et=47&mt=3CD2EA5F-6EC8-4299-AE88-E417DDE97A03

Hi guys

A couple interesting pictures in the TradeMe listing for this very original-looking engine.  Just thought I'd flag it here in case there is anything to be learned from pics

Cheers

I need to give kudos to a bloke called Ozzirt (I think he might be Irish) as permutations of his drip-feed, no-fan, no visible emissions, no smoke inside burners are all over the world and all over YouTube

Principle is simple, as stated.  If you have a bit of steel/iron/metal that's close to red-hot and if you drip oil onto it - then the oil will vapourise.  If you have a flame there and a just-right draft, the oil fumes will burn like bloody wildfire - and burn hot and clean by the look of things

The secret to it seems to be creating a good draft - using a long flue, basically - and using that draft to suck controlled amounts of air into the thing so that there's a good fire keeping the drip-plate-thingie hot, and a bunch of secondary-burn air-holes at strategic spots to get a raging column of burning oil fumes heating up a big metal something on their way to the flue.  The big metal something - the "stove" bit  (designs vary from a bit of heavy pipe to 100-litre compressed-air receivers - and everything in between)  radiates heat into whatever area.

Temperatures seem to be in the range of 900-1000 degrees F at the top of the burner pot area and maybe 400-700 F at various parts of the big heat-radiating "stove" bit

There are as many design schools as there are builders, and different versions of secondary air feeds abound - but there's a lot of overlap

So over the recent couple of weeks while my perk-disliking boss has been "working from home" I have come into the shop at six every morning and gotten in 90 mins work building myself one of these before anyone else turns up

The Domestic Authority isn't keen to be tripping over big bits of pipe shit in the garage  (and who can blame her) so the bits are sitting on a pallet out in the paddock in the traditional "under the Macrocapa Trees" site

Because they're out in the weather I gave them a coat of zinc primer and a coat of black enamel (which will burn off and stink/smoke like buggery hen it's fired).  I wish I had photographed it before painting - but too late now.  The black makes it hard to see detail

Anyway - pics attached

Main features are:

Body ex 250mm NB pipe with 8mm wall and 12mm top plate and 6mm wall 125mm swept elbow bend to flue cos there was one in the workdhop.  Crude baffles in the body to hopefully extract some heat before it goes up the flue

At the junction of the top of the burner tube/bottom of the body, there's an up-angled 40mm air intake with a section of 40mm pipe and a brass gate valve (the 600mm of pipe is just to keep the gate valve away from the hot stuff) so I can have a tinker with a tertiary air intake if it's good or just plug it with a 40mm BSP bung if it ain't

There's a funny stub-and-flange sticking out the other side.  That's cos I need to mount it out in the paddock miles from anything flammable and I have a post with a suitable flange for that to mate to in a suitable location.  So it'll be kinda "free-standing" so as to be easy to muck about with

Hanging below the body is a section of 100mm SC40 steel pipe with a bunch of holes (secondary burn section).  I figure I may have to drill more holes but I figured drilling extra ones later was easier (out int he paddock) than welding up surplus ones later.  On the bottom of that there's a flange where the burn chamber/pot bolts to the underside of it - just 4 X M16 bolts atm cos I don't want to do one of the many quick-release designs in the development stages in case it self-releases and sprays burning shit everywhere

On the top of that flange there are welded 3 X 15mm sockets (temporarily blocked with 3 X 15mm steel bungs so I can have one, two or three primary air holes

There's a bunch of 15mm/20mm plumbing to facilitate dripping one or two sources of oil into the pot (I don't like the copper-pipe-flapping-around look) an I have valving and plumbing etc "ready to roll"

It's a prototype.  I guess it owes me 10/15 hours and zero $$

Hopefully I'll get to do some burns with it in the next few months - firstly to validate/disprove/fine-tune the design; secondly to have a play with the heavy oil of which I have a potentially almost limitless supply

We'll see what happens.  As always, there is much to learn

Here at work we generate several tonnes of waste oil each year.  This year I would like to harvest some of it

One of these days I'd like to have an oil-burning drip-feed heater (and yes, I think I'm cogniscent of the pitfalls/problems around how temp changes viscosity, how they can't be left to run unattended etc etc) because I think my circumstances will suit one AND I have, potentially, a LOT of oil

I made a prototype a while back and have just about finished building Mk11 at work with some options to control primary, secondary & tertiary air intakes - hope to do some trial burns when this Covid shit is over and life can resume

So today at work I welded in a 40mm BSP socket to the side of an empty 44-gallon (200 litre) drum about 150mm (six inches) above the bottom.  I'll use the air-pump oil-transfer thingie to fill it up next week at work

What I reckon/hope/wonder is this:

My observation is that the oil is pretty non-hygroscopic.  When I drain gearboxes first you get a stream of clear water, then a stream of clean oil.  You don't get any white stuff

So I'm hoping that if it sits in a drum for a few years, that any water and whatever "dirt" is in there (no combustion by-products are present) will simply "settle out" and if I write off the bottom six inches by just draining it down to the new bung on the side - I might end up with quite a "clean" product

It has been bothering me for years that we just throw this stuff away by giving it to the recyclers.  It seems to me it's potentially a resource I should be harvesting.  There's probably nothing to stop me welding a socket in a heap of drums and harvesting a tonne or two

I'd be interested in any thoughts from folks who are experienced in dealing with "waste" oils

Cheers

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2532087845

There might be some life left in the oily one?