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Topics - Samo

Pages: [1] 2
1
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2
« on: June 26, 2020, 12:45:55 PM »
Hey all,

Long time since I've been on the forum but finally had time to complete my 12/2 lister rebuild. Everything has been done (it was seized) - pistons, valves, bearings, gaskets etc...  It's running ok but there are a few issues. Non too serious but the most annoying is oil seeping from the crank... copious amounts. I thought the crank case ran at a slight vacuum to help stop oil leaks? At least that was the case in the 6/1 I have.

Both sides are leaking at quite a rate. I installed the felt washers and set everything up by the book.

Appreciate advice on what I should look at.

thanks,

John

2
Original Lister Cs Engines / CAV Pump Leak
« on: October 15, 2018, 03:30:35 PM »
Hey folks,

Been a while since my last post, finally getting some time again to work on the last few things for my Lister 12/2. So even though it runs I've noticed that one of the Diesel pumps is leaking (squirting) fuel out of the port near the bottom of the pump. it's not coming out of the bottom, just that oval port on the side of the pump.

Does this mean it needs a rebuild? Anyone know of a rebuild kit for these?
Any advice appreciated

thanks,

Samo

3
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Hows this for a clearing sale!
« on: February 19, 2018, 09:52:11 PM »

For your viewing, collecting and hording pleasure!

https://burnsandco.com.au/auction_single/clearing-sale-orange-n-s-w/#prettyphoto

I'm keen to see the catalog later this month.... its going to be a cracker of an auction.

4
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2 flywheel question
« on: December 05, 2017, 10:58:07 PM »
Hey folks,

Today I've been looking at the flywheels for the lister 12/2. The LHS flywheel is just as I'd expect, with the weight and keyway opposite the piston throw. However the RHS flywheel has been repaired and the keyway and counterweight is at an odd position. I've looked on the forum and youtube for flywheel setup on a twin, but there's little guidance.

So is this repaired flywheel for the scrap heap and do I need to source another?

Comments appreciated!

LHS flywheel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/87SCFDqc2GDRpea93

RHS flywheel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/A8aqnpP0gL6l2ADM2

Thanks
Samo

5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2 Rebuild Update
« on: December 05, 2017, 12:06:46 AM »

Hey Folks,

Here's the latest update on my 12/2 rebuild. Fuel injector pumps and linkages all working, however one of the injectors isn't outputting anything. So that's the next job.


For some reason I'm getting errors when trying to upload to the LEF Gallery (some kind of file permission error) So here's a link to the latest stage of the build.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RWJqYMiDCkoQZTxg2


6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Tight Crankshaft Bushes
« on: November 21, 2017, 11:41:08 AM »
Hey folks

So I've finally started the rebuild of my Lister 12/2 and hit an early snag getting the crankshaft bushes into the housing. One was a snug press fit with reasonable interference, the other is very tight.  I honed the housing, and applied heat, and it goes in a little, but I'm now wondering what the normal approach is for seating the crankshaft bush into the housing? Concerned if I hone it too much and it's not true I'll create other problems.

Advice appreciated.

thanks
Samo


7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Oiling Improvements
« on: October 25, 2017, 09:21:13 AM »
To the Lister modder inside you all...

I've searched extensively, but not quite found what I'm after... has anyone modified or can point me to modifying the oiling system to provide better lubrication the Cam bearings and Injector pushrods? In my 12/2 it has obvious signs of poor lubrication around the cam area, especially the side without the full cutout. I was thinking of extending the oil plumbing network up to the cam, but concerned about there being enough oil pressure to do that. Also extending the plumbing without enough support might end in disaster (wrapped around moving bits etc...)

Any thoughts?

Samo

ps example of the governor weight pivot pin (or what ever it's proper name is...)


8
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2 rebuild - 1 year on...
« on: October 22, 2017, 02:07:04 AM »
So I'm approaching the 12 month mark since saving this Lister 12/2 from a paddock at Bookham, New South Wales and there's hardly been a week where I haven't been working on some part of it.

Obviously this isn't all the parts, there's another box full of nuts, bolts, studs and components that I've completed. BTW - I really didn't appreciate just how many components go into one of these "simple" engines....  Just waiting on a few parts and then I'm about ready for re-assembly.... I've got to say I've really enjoyed the journey with this old girl, and it will be good to see her spinning again  :D

For your viewing pleasure....



Samo

9
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2 rebuild - crank out
« on: September 28, 2017, 02:03:01 PM »
Hey folks,
So I think I've finally reached the halfway point in the rebuild of my Bookham (that's where i got it from) Lister 12/2. Took a long time to remove the crankshaft. I took 38AC's advice and took a fine file to it, filed and filed until the bearings slipped over it. More pockmarks than a teenager - I'll try post some pictures when I get a moment.

The white metal on the bearings is in pretty poor shape around the bearing joins  and a fair bit is missing, maybe the engine ran for some time on very poor/little oil before it seized - there's also a bit scoring. However that said the crank bearing surfaces are good and the center bearing diameter is 2.496 by my calipers. Outside bearings are also reading exactly the same. Took 3 readings across each surface and all are consistent and flat. 

Seeing the wear is within limits, I am thinking of going stock bearing sizes, unless someone wants to convince me otherwise? Not done this before so advice appreciated.

cheers,
Samo

10
Generators / Measuring RPM with an Arduino
« on: July 14, 2017, 05:50:04 AM »
Here's the first post for an Arduino RPM sensor. The software and instructions provide Realtime and Average RPM using a Hall Effect Sensor or an Infrared Sensor. I've found infrared sensors work pretty well with a painted white dot or stick on reflective surface.

I'll post more as I finish it but the software and hardware seems to work pretty well for me at the moment.

Overview:



https://onenote.com/webapp/pages?token=dhiseQcQssyXXmHDU4u7mLWtQCZdMbvpJaxTKZyjJtd_8fCBoRMjmd7kcTjhjvhUJ-4U0Ce7wRgy2cL03LnDP9bYR_POsni60&id=636355803644158592

Software:

https://onenote.com/webapp/pages?token=LMPiH-U3DSxJxLXxYJxur0WyB0UXTJSkSoOVrzasZG_vfWnHya7RusSN8tVRqYVytzycctFlZR0HRStFwyeOb5yZlEhVFogA0&id=636355806109807414

Video
https://photos.app.goo.gl/noQyJZ27LezFVUhK2

The video isn't too good, got to get very close to the Sensor for a good measurement... which is hard with a hand held egg beater in a battery Drill!

Samo

11
The right fuel pump pushrod on my 12/2 has a cam follower wheel that's obviously been stuck for some time, it's worn a decent flat spot. Plus the wheel has quite a bit of play on the axle. Are these repairable? or do you normally source new units. The axle pin doesn't want to come out either, doesn't look tapered. I've tried a couple of heat cycles and some hydraulic pressure.  Info appreciated before I try more force.

cheers,
Samo

12
Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister 12/2 Broken Teeth in Cam Gears
« on: June 16, 2017, 07:12:11 AM »
I've had the day off work today (rostered day off NOT sickie!) and have spent some time dismantling the 12/2 I got from the Bookham clearance sale. Majority of the engine is now apart, and plan today was removing cam then crank. However when I started looking to record the crank/cam position so I could get it back together the same, I noticed 2 of the gear wheels have missing teeth.

I didn't find them when I cleaned out the sump. Looks like I need more parts.... luckily there's not too much more!


13
Hey folks,

Took my 12/2 Heads, cylinders and pistons to the local machine shop. They mostly recondition engine heads, but they've been around 30 or so years so they've some experience with all sorts of machines and the work to keep them running.

They will check the valve seats and remove some stuck studs, and the COVs - tried with everything I have.... :(

Also because the RHS piston was seized (now free) the bore is pitted and will need some work. Both cylinders have been sleeved, and the machinist recommend boring it out maybe 10 thou.

He also mentioned I'd need new pistons to go with that... So do I? I can see oversize rings, out to +30 thou, but nothing about oversize pistons. So appreciate a lesson in cylinder/piston/ring options if someone has the time? I have 38AC's Lister specs from the WOK article, but that didn't answer my question, or I'm too thick to work it out. ;)

Thanks

Samo

14
Original Lister Cs Engines / lister 12/2
« on: May 16, 2017, 10:05:54 PM »
Just saw this one on the aussie gumtree site, a bit on the expensive side. He also has a 6/1 listed..

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gordon/antiques/lister-cs-2-12-diesel-vintage-stationary-engine/1148148715

15
Engines / Freeing Tight v's Rusted Parts
« on: April 29, 2017, 12:08:11 AM »
This information came from AlanS on a french car forum... but I found this to be a useful assessment process for how to attack tight v's rusted/corroded parts for newbies like myself stripping down a paddock/shed find...
 
(I changed the formatting codes slightly so that it would display correctly on this forum)

=======================

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3700

We often get postings from people having problems loosening parts that have corroded in and predictably, these all too often all end up in tears when something like a brake bleed nipple sheers off in the caliper or a rear sphere is so tight that the rear cylinder turns & takes out all the plumbing in the process. As a former tradesman working on items prone to corrosion as well as owning a boat used exclusively in salt water, I can pass on a couple of general hints that may help make life a bit easier and the job quicker when these situations become part of the problem.

Firstly, assess if the part you are trying to remove is tight or corroded.

If tight then possibly an impact tool is the most logical choice to rattle it free, however if corroded then an impact tool is the last resort due to their tendency to sheer things off in this condition.

If corrosion is suspected & if the job is planned for say a day to a week later on, start by spraying WD40, Penetrene or RP7 onto the threaded area or in the case of bleed nipples, where they screw in. Repeat a couple of times to ensure that the circumference is circled in the stuff, but notice something, particularly if it's a bit rusty? The penetrating agent (WD or whatever) quickly disappears! To counteract this, a couple of drops of engine oil on top of the penetrator works wonders as in time, it tends to follow the track made by the penetrater. This works on ALL metals. Even a dollop of grease in certain situations can work wonders but remember as always, common sense must prevail if working around brakes as far as contamination is concerned so use in moderation and don't get these lubricants onto anything associated with brake surfaces.

Using HEAT: This is a method that is often used incorrectly; when someone suggests heat, the first inclination of most is to reach for the oxy acetylene and start getting things almost white hot, almost melting the entire job & ripping & tearing away at the stuck bolt whilst usually ending up with blisters & burns all over their hands in the process & often causing more damage than they would with a sledge hammer. Heat, particularly where two different metals is concerned, is there to do a job; cause these metals to expand & thereby break the seal between the two offending surfaces, nothing more, nothing less, hence used correctly, little brute force is necessary.

The system I use is this:
If it's a small object such as a bleed nipple, use a pin point flame such as you get with a mini (butane) pocket blowtorch. In the case of a larger object an LPG blowtorch is ample. Oxy in moderation is OK but don't get heavy handed with it. If it's steel (nipple) heat to dull red - just the nipple. Allow to cool to touch temperature. Then, use a hexagonal socket (one with 8 sides not 16) and try to move by firstly applying a slight pressure & if no luck, by bumping the end of the handle with the ball of the palm of your hand. If it still sticks, put more fluid on the thread and give it another half to one hour to again soak. Reheat again to the same temperature and again wait for it to cool to just above touch temperature & if no luck wait until nearly cold & try again. Rarely does it go past two goes but I have gone to 4 on a couple of occasions. The general principle is that is expands & contracts and usually when you strike one expanded whilst the other has contracted to its original size, there is a cracking of the seal created by the corrosion & it all just screws apart. If however, all seems lost & it won't come apart, then resort to the 'rattle gun' as you've got nothing to lose!

In the case of alloys, then the penetrating agents are a must, heat to the maximum temp - indicated by:  use WD & spray it onto the area being heated with flame withdrawn & when the WD instantaneously just turns to white vapour, you're at the limit of the metals ability to take the heat.

Whenever you reassemble any job on the exterior of the car, always but always, coat the thread & shafts of the bolts with grease it saves an awful lot of work down the track if that area has to be revisited. I have made this a policy on my outboard motor ever since I bought it new in 1974 and I still can pull bolts out usually without resorting to drastic measures; that should tell you something. :D
Alan S

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