Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Jordan

Pages: [1]
Lister Based Generators / Alternator Hz tip
« on: June 23, 2019, 11:02:10 AM »
I heard a suggestion for fine-setting of engine speed to obtain the required Hertz.

Assuming pulleys of theoretically near-correct ratio are installed on engine and alternator shafts:
Paint a white line on the alternator pulley, so that with a lamp shining (powered from grid, on a house circuit for example) the line will appear stationery when correct speed is achieved.
It's the same principle that was often seen on hi-fi record player turntables.
Has anyone else heard of this method?

Generators / Pulley wanted for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 05:12:12 AM »
I need a B section, 2 groove pulley in cast iron or steel.
The PCD is 7 inches, or about 7 1/2 inches overall diameter.

It's to mate with my 6/1 engine that has a 16 1/2" overall diameter.

I'm in Australia.


Things I want to Buy / Pulley for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 05:02:46 AM »
I'm after a B section, 2 groove pulley in cast iron or steel.
The PCD is 7 inches, or overall diameter about 7 1/2 inches.

Please call 0403 221 884, or message here.
I'm in Australia.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Calculating pulley size
« on: April 27, 2019, 10:52:38 AM »
I need a pulley for the alternator to go with the one on the engine.
I can easily measure the overall diameters, but new pulleys seem to be described in terms of pitch circle diameter.
Is it OK to work with the overall diameter figures?
Then I can just ask for a pulley of the required overall size?
Or is there an important difference, so I need to calculate the PCD of the engine pulley, then order the appropriate alternator pulley also in PCD terms?
I'd need to find out the formula to convert overall to PCD diameters.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Keyway width puzzle
« on: April 16, 2019, 08:20:24 AM »
I removed a pulley from my CS1, to put on the other (exhaust) side for driving an alternator.
The key was a loose fit, so I made a new one on my mill/drill.
I was surprised to find the keyway on the crankshaft measures 14mm wide, not the expected 9/16" which is slightly wider.
At first I thought it just wanted some dressing with a file, to remove burrs that made it seem narrower.
But, it really does seem to be 14mm, with no discernible lip after cleaning it up.
It even measures 14mm at the bottom of the keyway, at the extreme end of the crankshaft, so it's not just because of deformation.
I reduced the width of my new key for the part that engages the crankshaft groove, the only way it would fit - OK now.
Is this really a metric sized keyway?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Running temperature?
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:30:40 PM »
My 6/1 is cooled by thermo-syphon from the attached 44 gallon drum.
I can control water flow with the gate valve on the drum's bottom opening.
A thermometer was obtained reading up to 120 degrees Centigrade.
I intend to install it on the lower pipe that brings water to the engine.
Is there a recommendation for the optimum temperature to run the Lister?

Lister Based Generators / AVR?
« on: March 01, 2019, 08:03:54 AM »
I have an old Markon model LC28D.
I took covers off to have a look, and saw brushes, slip rings, wound stator and rotor.
Also there was a big coil (choke?) mounted on the frame, and some diodes and two adjustable wound resistors.
What wasn't obvious was a regulator.
Is it normal for this alternator not to use a regulator?
Would the addition of an Automatic Voltage Regulator be beneficial?

Original Lister Cs Engines / A couple more questions
« on: January 29, 2019, 10:48:34 AM »
If you helpful lads would indulge this newbie a bit more:

I discovered a brass plug near the exhaust valve lifter lever, with "OIL" stamped on it.
I had missed that when preparing to do an oil change on my 6/1.
Looking up the Instruction Book (Book 103/666), it says it is to lubricate the camshaft, with 1/4 pint oil.
How is this oil checked and replenished? That is, how to remove the old oil first, or is that not necessary?

Also, my engine came with a can with big holes in it, attached to the inlet - looks original.
There is nothing inside it in the way of a filter.
I see in the parts section of my Instruction Book an illustration of a different device, a simple elbow, part no. 8-3-176.
It's referred to as an Air Inlet Flange.
I happen to have one of these too. It also has no filter, just a screen with some holes. I can't see how a filter could be
installed in it, as it's welded up.
I'm curious as to what to make of these things. Why have they no filters? And two variations?
My engine is in a shed, and not subject to much dust if any, but there are these pesky mud wasps
that like to plug up any small hole with mud, which won't do anything good for the Lister if they get
sucked into it.

Any advices gladly received.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Exhaust joints
« on: January 28, 2019, 02:00:22 AM »
The exhaust system is made up of sections of pipe and a muffler.
They are slip fit to each other, with ends expanded where necessary so one pipe end fits into the other.
I find that there is unacceptable leakage at all joints when the engine is running.
I'd love to have a totally sealed system, without having to weld the various pipes/muffler to each other.
Could there be some solution?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Rust protection
« on: January 27, 2019, 09:40:07 AM »
I fired up my Lister at last, connected to a 200 litre drum of water in thermo-syphon configuration.
I'd like to add some anti-rust product to the cooling water.
Are there any suggestions for a good way to go about it?
It's a lot of coolant, so cost is a consideration.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Big end split pins
« on: January 25, 2019, 01:43:22 PM »
I discovered there are castellated nuts fastening the cap to the conrod of my CS1.
There are no split pins fitted.
It appears to have run for an extended time this way, going by the sludgy black stuff in the sump.
I'd like to fit some split pins if I can.
One of the nuts has a slot that lines up with the hole in the conrod bolt.
But the other bolt does not have a hole visible - likely just not lined up with the nut's slot.
Trouble is, the nut is very tight indeed. I could only get it to budge slightly, in the direction that would make it tighter.
I'm not to keen on loosening the nut to get it lined up with the hole.
Am I safe to continue running the engine as is, without the split pins?
Any suggestions for lining up the hole with the nuts' slots?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Lubricating oil?
« on: January 22, 2019, 08:36:28 PM »
I'm looking for oil recommendations for a CS1 6hp made in 1953.
I don't think it has a full flow filter?
So I guess a dispersant additive is not wanted, as it would not encourage debris to sink to the bottom of the sump.
I'm in Australia.

Thanks folks.

Pages: [1]