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Topics - Hugh Conway

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Listeroid Engines / reluctant to start
« on: December 31, 2021, 12:00:43 AM »
Our Listeroid was reluctant to start for the last several days. No surprise really, the temps were at -18*C  , and she lives outside. The starting battery is a 10 year old discarded car battery and that didn't help either, she would turn over, but too slowly to fire up, even with the help of a propane torch heating up the intake for a couple of minutes. The solution was  to heat the intake, turn on the electric start and then use the hand crank.......with that combination, she took off like a rocket,
This afternoon, it is a sweltering -2* so normal starting procedures were sufficient to do the deed.
This has been the coldest spell we've seen here since putting this engine into service some 10 plus years ago, and this is was far too cold for us.
The woodshed has been visited far too often. I wince when thinking of all the effort in gathering firewood, so am a bit of a miser in using it up.....though it is our only heat source.
More snow in the forecast and it is not yet the new year. Might eventually have to break into next year's wood supply.
Happy New Year!

Original Lister Cs Engines / Gov stuck, any easy suggestions?
« on: January 18, 2021, 12:17:42 AM »
After a few years of non operation, I have finally started up this 6/1. After a fuel bleed, it started easily.
To my dismay, I could see that the gov is not operating. With the linkage removed, it's easy to realize that the problem is internal, as the injector rack and external  linkage is free of any binding.
The flyweights or the sliding sleeve or the internal linkage is stuck. Before I (sigh) take things apart, does anyone have a possible solution. I've just re-installed the wheels and it's a startomatic, so they are heavy.
All suggestions entertained, though I think I will have to do some disassembly to remedy the situation.

Listeroid Engines / Listeroid intake porting
« on: December 27, 2020, 09:17:13 PM »
Ever so often, the topic of porting comes up. For what it's worth, I tried an experiment today.
This morning was a clean-up day for our daily driver listeroid. Mostly a going over with a rag to clean off all the oil that seems to coat everything after a time. In this case, the generator drive belt was slipping a bit with a combination of a film of oil on the flywheel and moisture from condensation ( it has been raining/fogging here for almost ever).
After completion of cleaning and then starting up, I thought a good time to spray a litre or so of water into the intake under load. After removing the intake silencer (Solberg air compressor  intake filter) I used a garden sprayer to apply just sufficient  water so that RPM didn't bog down. Sometimes a bit too much water caused an RPM drop, which led me to wonder just how much intake air flow obstruction would affect RPM. At the time the engine (with about 2300 hours on it) was fully warmed up and pulling a 2800 Watt load.
With a flat piece of sheetmetal, I gradually covered the intake adapter until there was an audible decrease in RPM or a visual indication of the fuelling rack opening more.  I was able to cover the intake just a bit more than 50% before there was any change at all.
This experience seems to indicate that improving the intake airflow by cleaning up the port makes little or no change in power output.

Listeroid Engines / oil sump intake screen blockage
« on: July 17, 2019, 08:54:18 PM »
I was changing oil at 1850 hours a few days ago, and removed the sump oil intake screen to clean it.
I had only removed it once before on the initial cleaning/reassembly.

On inspection, there appeared to be something  INSIDE the screen that would not wash out.
The foreign object could move from one end of the screen to the other and was nearly the ID of the screen.
When shaken, it moved from mid-screen to the threaded end, made of steel (not brass) in this listeroid. I had to use a rod to dislodge it from the threaded end, pushing it back into the screen.
The object was larger in diameter than the threaded end, so could not be removed. Whatever it was, how did it get in there?

I cut the end off the screen to get this thing out and discovered it was a magnet, cylindrical and with tapered rounded ends and shaped like a large very smooth rat turd. I suppose it seemed like a good idea to the manufacturers, but it could very easily migrate to the threaded end of the screen assy and effectively shut off oil flow. Sure glad it did not! With the magnet/oil shut off valve removed, I re-closed and re-installed the intake screen thinking I had dodged a very large bullet!

I had early on put a couple of magnets in the sump, so this OEM one now sits on my shop window sill as a reminder that with a listeroid, ANYTHING is possible!

General Discussion / Metal working files
« on: December 26, 2018, 11:58:47 PM »
Somebody must know!
It is time to replace/re-purpose  some of my much used metal files. I've found lots of cheap imitations of real tools, but can't seem to find a source for good ones.
 I have seen some brand recommendations on the web but the next problem is......
Finding a dealer! Seems there are a few good brands ones out there, but nobody appears to sell them in Canada or USA.
Any recommendations of brand or dealer would be appreciated.

General Discussion / Manual for a Toyota UTE?
« on: September 28, 2018, 12:33:02 AM »
A request for members in UK, NZ, or AUS or anyone else who might know the answers

I have a Toyota Townace/Liteace pick-up truck.....1996 model CM65 4WD long bed (2000Kg)
What type of oil is to be used in the front and read differentials, the transfer case, and manual transmission?
Does anyone know where to get an owners manual, or better, a repair manual for this vehicle? In English.

I know they were sold new in the abovementioned countries, and probably more (Japan, of course). I am in Canada and imported this one myself from Japan. Sure could use some additional information.


General Discussion / Searching out old posts
« on: January 27, 2018, 05:41:02 PM »
May by a question for moderators
Is there a way to have a look at a list all of the posts of a particular member? I'm trying to find a few old ones of my own.
I seem to recall that on the older version of the forum, there was a way to see all of one's previous posts.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Main bearing felt seal replacement
« on: June 15, 2017, 09:16:09 PM »
I am not happy with the amount of oil that migrates through the felt seals on my Dursley as compared to the listeroid.
In previously replacing the bearings and felt seals, I noted the sealing areas on the crankshaft are nicely smooth, not scored or pitted. Carriers were also in good, clean condition.  In replacing the felts, the new ones were put  dry into the bearing carriers, then slid on to the crank. It was a bit of a PITA, as I recall, to slide the carriers past the crank ends once the felt seal was reached.
Is there an "approved" way to do this replacement? Any one have positive repeatable experience here? I am about to move the engine into its working location, so would like to make it as oil tight (a relative term. I know!) as practical before putting it into regular service.
Personal experience, tips,  and advice gratefully sought.
Thanks everyone

Listeroid Engines / A bucket of soot
« on: November 20, 2016, 10:08:36 PM »

A few days ago I dug up the Pit-of-Doom and removed a section of the concrete lid.

After 1000+ hours, I wanted to see what it looked like in there. Found it had a lot of carbon powder......soot. Shovelling it into a bucket, there was at least 2 gallons of the stuff.
Due to the large volume of the pit, the soot was not in danger of plugging up the pit, but I wonder what would have resulted if I used a regular muffler as in an automobile or truck. Would there have been a serious exhaust restriction?
I am sure I have done a great service to delay global warming by capturing all of that carbon, did not get any on my boots, so did not contribute to an increase in my carbon footprint. :)
I have not put my Dursley 6/1 into service yet, but the day is fast approaching. No possibility of a Pit-of Doom set up, as it will be next to a rock bluff. Any recommendations for an inexpensive and easy to make sound reducing exhaust that will not get a carbon clog after a number of hours run time?

What are your experiences?


General Discussion / David Edgington R.I.P.
« on: June 05, 2016, 08:51:19 PM »
Looks like Lister historian and creator of Stationary Engine magazine has entered the great beyond.
This morning received an email from George Breckenridge blog. Here's a link that tells the story:

Cheers to you life, David

Listeroid Engines / 1000 hour decoke
« on: June 04, 2016, 11:18:49 PM »
We started running this JKSON in 2013 to drive an Utterpower PMG for off-grid service. It has given relatively trouble free service so far. An oil change every 250 hours, the valve gear gets oiled before each run, it gets wiped down once in a while, other than that, it just gets run. The engine lives outside under a shed roof here on the Canadian we(s)t coast.
A few days ago, pulled the head for a 1000 hour decoke and to check on things generally.
Found carbon build up to be very little in the head and comet. The exhaust valve and port had most build up. I pulled out the valves and gave them a clean-up and light lapping. Noticed that the piston head had an area of no carbon and some light pitting. Every so often, I spray about 1 litre of water into the intake at high loading, this may account for little carbon and the pitting. A visual check showed no discernible wear in  in the bore, some cross hatching was still visible and no ridge can be felt at top of ring travel.
When I first started running this engine, I knew next to nothing except to pull it down, clean out the sand, reassemble, and run. Over the hours and years, much has been learned from the expert advise and sometimes questions and mistakes from other amateurs like myself here on the forum. I kept this in mind when putting things back together. 
A major item was to check bump clearance! Before I pulled the cylinder off, The bump measured .120" .No wonder it was hard (read nearly impossible) to hand start in cooler weather. What a difference in starting with the bump set at .075". Now this JKSON starts as easily as my Dursley 6/1.
One reason for the large clearance was several thick cylinder base gaskets. Another problem, the wet sleeve protrusion above the deck was out of tolerance......too proud  by about 7 thou. That was remedied with one of my hand operated milling machines.........patient draw filing did the trick to bring the protrusion into limits.......made the head gasket seal the water passages better as well!
Just for grins, visually checked the crank journal, shiny no scratches. Rod bearing clearance was in tolerance.
Drained the sump, wiped it out with a quart of diesel, changed the aftermarket filter, oiled it up and it is ready for another 1000.....I hope many 1000s!
Thank you all for the help, advise, and assistance. The readily available wisdom and information here makes things lots easier.


BTW, I still have that SR2 to give away. Found some time to reassemble it, so might be easier for one of you to get it.

General Discussion / BMW R-27 motorcycle
« on: April 28, 2016, 12:39:32 AM »
 Just brought home another project. Don't have any experience with these bikes, but they were well made and strong.
I know, it isn't a diesel, and it can move around, but it does have a single cylinder and a largish flywheel!
This one is fairly a fairly complete model from 1964. All the major parts are here. Needs electrical bits like switches,  some wiring harness work. The engine is free and transmission can be shifted through the gears. The basics are there, needs some knowledge, TLC and some $ for the missing bits.
Anyone have any experience with one of these? Got any bits laying around your shop?

General Discussion / Consequences of not acting your age
« on: February 27, 2016, 11:40:19 PM »
Nothing at all about Listers or any other engine.....
People who are old enough to know better doing something dumb.

No-one I know, but.......


General Discussion / Tough engine, stupid operator
« on: February 03, 2016, 01:33:55 AM »
I changed over my cooling system today. Removed the 30 gallon tank and installed an old 10 fin cast iron radiator. That part works great.

When done, I fired 'er up to charge my off-grid battery bank. After it warmed up, I removed the air filter and sprayed a bit of water into the that every so often to clean out the carbon. Slopped a bit of water, so unthinking (my excuse is that I was tired after a long day) picked up a rag to dry things off. The damned thing got sucked into the engine!!!!!

A 10" square cotton rag does slow things down. However, it did not stop, so figured what the hay, let it go and see what happens. After a few minutes it started to pick back up, resumed 650 rpm, and continued to charge the batteries. Has been running for another hour now.......everything normal.
That's one way to clean it up inside; would not recommend it though.


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