After a few years of non operation, I have finally started up this 6/1. After a fuel bleed, it started easily.
To my dismay, I could see that the gov is not operating. With the linkage removed, it's easy to realize that the problem is internal, as the injector rack and external  linkage is free of any binding.
The flyweights or the sliding sleeve or the internal linkage is stuck. Before I (sigh) take things apart, does anyone have a possible solution. I've just re-installed the wheels and it's a startomatic, so they are heavy.
All suggestions entertained, though I think I will have to do some disassembly to remedy the situation.
Cheers
Hugh

I was changing oil at 1850 hours a few days ago, and removed the sump oil intake screen to clean it.
I had only removed it once before on the initial cleaning/reassembly.

On inspection, there appeared to be something  INSIDE the screen that would not wash out.
The foreign object could move from one end of the screen to the other and was nearly the ID of the screen.
When shaken, it moved from mid-screen to the threaded end, made of steel (not brass) in this listeroid. I had to use a rod to dislodge it from the threaded end, pushing it back into the screen.
The object was larger in diameter than the threaded end, so could not be removed. Whatever it was, how did it get in there?

I cut the end off the screen to get this thing out and discovered it was a magnet, cylindrical and with tapered rounded ends and shaped like a large very smooth rat turd. I suppose it seemed like a good idea to the manufacturers, but it could very easily migrate to the threaded end of the screen assy and effectively shut off oil flow. Sure glad it did not! With the magnet/oil shut off valve removed, I re-closed and re-installed the intake screen thinking I had dodged a very large bullet!

I had early on put a couple of magnets in the sump, so this OEM one now sits on my shop window sill as a reminder that with a listeroid, ANYTHING is possible!
Cheers
Hugh

A request for members in UK, NZ, or AUS or anyone else who might know the answers

I have a Toyota Townace/Liteace pick-up truck.....1996 model CM65 4WD long bed (2000Kg)
What type of oil is to be used in the front and read differentials, the transfer case, and manual transmission?
Does anyone know where to get an owners manual, or better, a repair manual for this vehicle? In English.

I know they were sold new in the abovementioned countries, and probably more (Japan, of course). I am in Canada and imported this one myself from Japan. Sure could use some additional information.

Cheers
Hugh

May by a question for moderators
Is there a way to have a look at a list all of the posts of a particular member? I'm trying to find a few old ones of my own.
I seem to recall that on the older version of the forum, there was a way to see all of one's previous posts.
Cheers,
Hugh

A few days ago I dug up the Pit-of-Doom and removed a section of the concrete lid.

After 1000+ hours, I wanted to see what it looked like in there. Found it had a lot of carbon powder......soot. Shovelling it into a bucket, there was at least 2 gallons of the stuff.
Due to the large volume of the pit, the soot was not in danger of plugging up the pit, but I wonder what would have resulted if I used a regular muffler as in an automobile or truck. Would there have been a serious exhaust restriction?
I am sure I have done a great service to delay global warming by capturing all of that carbon, did not get any on my boots, so did not contribute to an increase in my carbon footprint.
I have not put my Dursley 6/1 into service yet, but the day is fast approaching. No possibility of a Pit-of Doom set up, as it will be next to a rock bluff. Any recommendations for an inexpensive and easy to make sound reducing exhaust that will not get a carbon clog after a number of hours run time?

What are your experiences?

Cheers,
Hugh

We started running this JKSON in 2013 to drive an Utterpower PMG for off-grid service. It has given relatively trouble free service so far. An oil change every 250 hours, the valve gear gets oiled before each run, it gets wiped down once in a while, other than that, it just gets run. The engine lives outside under a shed roof here on the Canadian we(s)t coast.
A few days ago, pulled the head for a 1000 hour decoke and to check on things generally.
Found carbon build up to be very little in the head and comet. The exhaust valve and port had most build up. I pulled out the valves and gave them a clean-up and light lapping. Noticed that the piston head had an area of no carbon and some light pitting. Every so often, I spray about 1 litre of water into the intake at high loading, this may account for little carbon and the pitting. A visual check showed no discernible wear in  in the bore, some cross hatching was still visible and no ridge can be felt at top of ring travel.
When I first started running this engine, I knew next to nothing except to pull it down, clean out the sand, reassemble, and run. Over the hours and years, much has been learned from the expert advise and sometimes questions and mistakes from other amateurs like myself here on the forum. I kept this in mind when putting things back together. 
A major item was to check bump clearance! Before I pulled the cylinder off, The bump measured .120" .No wonder it was hard (read nearly impossible) to hand start in cooler weather. What a difference in starting with the bump set at .075". Now this JKSON starts as easily as my Dursley 6/1.
One reason for the large clearance was several thick cylinder base gaskets. Another problem, the wet sleeve protrusion above the deck was out of tolerance......too proud  by about 7 thou. That was remedied with one of my hand operated milling machines.........patient draw filing did the trick to bring the protrusion into limits.......made the head gasket seal the water passages better as well!
Just for grins, visually checked the crank journal, shiny no scratches. Rod bearing clearance was in tolerance.
Drained the sump, wiped it out with a quart of diesel, changed the aftermarket filter, oiled it up and it is ready for another 1000.....I hope many 1000s!
Thank you all for the help, advise, and assistance. The readily available wisdom and information here makes things lots easier.

Cheers,
Hugh

BTW, I still have that SR2 to give away. Found some time to reassemble it, so might be easier for one of you to get it.

Nothing at all about Listers or any other engine.....
People who are old enough to know better doing something dumb.

http://imgur.com/gallery/2SvpTAA

No-one I know, but.......

Cheers,
Hugh