I have found this modification helps immensely governing my Big Wheel.  It took all the lateral slack out of the slip joint between the bell-crank and the rack.



I changed the adjuster around on the rpm adjust, and I installed a little softer, longer spring.  I found it hunts a bit when not loaded heavily.  The bracket's a little light, I'll change that.



The gen head pulley only has one allen screw to hold it on the keyed shaft. It's drilled over the key.  Trust me, tighten it nearly tight enough to strip out the screw.  Note the slot in the pulley was cut plenty wide and is a concern. Mine seems to be holding now.... There's a story in that...
In my humble opinion, it would be a good thing to add one more allen screw that would contact the shaft.  Those pulleys can really travel....



A 4 core, 12" x 10" radiator is not big enough for a 8/1.  I'm not running a thermostat yet and my radiator input is about 200 F.  Output of the radiator is about 150 F.  At 1500 watts out, it would run all day, if it's cold out and it was.  Loading it to 3000 watts, temp came right up past 210 and rising fast.  A couple of days ago, I ordered a 1500 cfm super fan, it helped some but not what I expected. Delivery on the fan was really fast.  I'm going to install a bigger radiator on it and reuse the fan.  I'm also pulling a JD diesel out of an old combine for my well unit at the farm and the radiator should be overkill.  My well unit used a counter-flow exchanger so I won't need the radiator for the well.

I will be balancing the Big Wheels.  It hops pretty good and vibrates.  My skid is sitting on 1" condensed rubber pad and it doesn't move at all..  Bounces up and down and front to rear, but doesn't move on the pad.  I think the rubber pad is the only way to go and I can move it around to where I want it with the Kubota bucket.  It looks like it's heavy on the weighted spoke, but one hole was drilled in it opposite the weighted spoke.  Could that be?



I used to really like banjo bolts on Brit stuff, but these are tough to seal.  I eliminated two of them by replacing the fuel filter and associated lines. 
My kit didn't have a shut off valve so I ordered one.  The one I received leaks worse than the banjo bolts.  The tapered shaft shut off leaks out of the tapered shaft.  I have it so tight I can hardly turn it.  I tried a little valve grinding compound on the tapered shaft and I ground and ground and it still leaks a little.  I'll get the supplier to replace my leaky one or come up with a different type of shut off.  It looks like it was drilled out and put together without removing the drilling burrs.
I suppose you can see the mess in the background, sorry about that.  I'll take care of that when it warms up a little here and I have less important things to do.
Comments anyone?  Doc.
 

I have a pulley for my generator head that I cannot find a belt for.  It a 11.25" pulley with TLB?  I don't know what the TLB stands for, but the thing was make in India.  All 8 groove belts that I can find are a little over an inch wide.  This pulley is about 1.5 inches wide and 8 grooves.  I picked up an 8 groove that was 100" long and it won't work because the grooves are closer together on the belt than on the pulley.   Has anyone had any  experience with these pulleys?  I asked DES about it, Gary's looking into it?
Any help would be appreciated, Doc. 

I think I'm at a point of impasse..  I have the block all cleaned up on my 8/1 and assembled.  I took out the studs for the block and cleaned up.  I noticed an imperfection in one of the studs.  It appears that when it was extruded, or however the Indians make studs, they didn't notice a split in the stud and just threaded the ends anyway.  My question, is it safe to use??



One more question..
Do all Listeroids use valve caps on the end of the valve?  Mine has none.  They weren't on the valve assembly, nor in the bag of nuts and washers, and they weren't floating around in the crate like the pump lifter
Any help would be appreciated, Doc.

I removed the tapered pin from the cam to remove.  It took a couple of pretty good raps with a fair sized hammer to get it to pop loose.  My question is: Can it be reused or should they always be replaced.  I noticed my gib keys are straight as well.  Can they be reused?
I got the upload picture thingy figured out so I included a pic of the cam tapered pin and the surprise I found in the sump and corners of the crankcase.



How's this for a grubby crankcase??




I had already vacuumed some out of the crankcase before I decided I'd better shoot some pics.  Anyone not tearing one of these Liseroids down when they get it
better think twice.  Mine looked pretty clean when I first inspected.  I noticed someone said that they found sand under the sump ceiling, so I thought I would check.  Then I found a 1/2" thick fillet in the corner by the sump screen, all covered nicely by white paint.  The crankcase goes to the bead blaster tomorrow...