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Topics - carbon-rod

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Listeroid Engines / Finally got around to balancing the beast
« on: October 16, 2012, 02:22:30 PM »
I posted up a while ago about taming the beast and I have finally had the opportunity to work on it, the old thread is here http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6409.msg73551#msg73551

Ok so this RNR I built myself a gib key puller and I removed the flywheels from my engine so I could balance them. They were stuck on really good so I had to make up a jig to hold a Toyota jack which pulled the wheel off the shaft.

Here is the gib key puller I made, I welded two bolts onto the tube but I had to run the tap and die over the threads as they got quite tight from welding, I thought I would just give it a go with just the two on there and it worked quite well so I probably will never get around to welding on the third bolt :)



This is the bracket I built to hold the jack in place, pretty simple just some angle line on one side and a small piece of pipe to sit on the shaft welded on the other side, the jack is then placed on the end and a wire rope sling is made up. I tell you this wheel was stuck on tight, I tell you that jack would probably have preferred jacking up the hilux instead of the flywheel!




Once I got the wheels off I followed these steps.

found the wheel with the heaviest offset weight (found by hanging the bucket from the string), I added weights in order to make the keyway point directly down
I then used the bucket of weights method again to find the new offset weight for this wheel, I weighed the weights with a kitchen scale.
I then got the other wheel and used the bucket method to weigh the offset weight, I then calculated the amount of weight required in order to make it the same as the first wheel
The second wheel didn't sit with the key directly down so I applied the weight (which I got from subtracting wheel 1 - wheel 2) slightly to the higher side in order to make it point down.
I then weighed the offset weight of wheel 2 to make sure it was still the same offset weight as wheel 1

phew once that was all done they were both put back on with their new gib keys ( see my other post about the gib keys http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6547.0)

The offset weight of the wheels was then around 1400 grams which is a lot higher than 67% which is apparently the magical figure, so I then added weight to the opposite side of the flywheels in order to bring it back to a more balanced state.

I did all my balancing on a motorbike wheel balancing stand, this worked great, I didn't have the correct size tube but even using this smaller piece it worked just as well, applying only a few grams on the wheel caused it to rotate so it was adequate for what I needed.




The way I did the weights was to cut strips of lead and put them in heat shrink, it makes for a very compact and easy to work with weight although I wish I had a different colour.



The engine is running a lot smoother and quieter now, it still needs a small amount more weight I think but I can experiment with that later, next thing to fix is the governor, I think I am going to build my own electronic governor so will keep people posted.

Unfortunately I don't have any before footage of the engine bouncing around but here is a quick video of it running with a small heater, not sure about how much power is being pulled by the heater, the muffler is still a work in progress. You can see the weights spinning around too.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2JS4E-JVBo[/youtube]

I close the shed just to see how quiet the engine would be.

Cheers

Murray

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Listeroid Engines / Loud knocking fixed!
« on: October 15, 2012, 02:55:25 PM »
So I have been working on the engine, getting it ready to run and I have had this really loud knocking noise, I thought it was diesel knock as the engine has always done this, I was kind of disappointed considering I told the Mrs I would be able to make the engine silent enough to run it in suburbia prior to buying it. So I started to do the balancing on my engine the other day and noticed there is a half mm gap between the flywheel hub key slot and the key itself, the key fits not too badly into the shaft but there was quite a bit of slop in the hub. I did some research on the net and I found that someone else had loud knocking noises I think they likened it to someone hammering on an anvil with a sledgehammer, well this was what this sounded like!

So I was going to shim the gap but you think I could find anywhere that sold thin brass sheeting for shimming? so I ended up welding a bead onto the gibkey and filing it down to the correct height to take up the play, I like this solution because you only need to do it once and don't need to worry about losing the shimms if the key is removed. I also tightened the fit into the shaft keyway as well. voila!! the noise was gone! I couldn't believe how quiet it was after doing this, such a relief, I might actually be able to get it quiet enough to run without the neighbours putting in complaints now.

I took a quick before and after video, its hard to distinguish the difference in noise when recording on a mobile phone so if you compare the different in sound from when I have the decomp lever enabled and disable you will notice the sound difference, the knocking only occurred when in normal running, not when the decomp was enabled. The second video does a similar comparison, this time there is minimal difference between decomp and not.

Any way, I hope this helps someone else out there having a similar issue, the gib key now has a 0.5mm step to take up the play, it looks a little rough but works sweet.

Before

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgWt2sxhUTA[/youtube]

After

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v85aRSc2bvA[/youtube]

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Listeroid Engines / How I remove the flywheels off my 6/1 listeroid
« on: October 14, 2012, 01:36:20 PM »
Hey guys,

So today I finally got around to making my gib key puller and removing the flywheels on my listeroid. I read about using the jacking method on a forum (probably this one) although I can't remember who mentioned it previously so I am unable to give credit to them, either way I thought I would make a quick demo video on how I did it, hopefully someone else may find it useful.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hzoolvRok8[/youtube]

cheers,

Murray.

4
Listeroid Engines / Resonance frequency when on castor wheels
« on: June 18, 2012, 12:03:57 PM »
Hey guys,

A while back I posted up on the forum about help to get my lister engine to run for the first time and now it's time to ask you wise guys another question as I am having dramas again...

I have recently started to build the frame for my engine now that I have got my shed all set up nicely, I welded the frame together using some hefty 10mm I-beam (with 5mm webbing) and put some heavy duty castor wheels on so I can roll it around.

The frame is pretty well square and I was surprised that none of the wheels were floating initially, I shimmed one wheel up 2 mm and it seems pretty good right now.
 
To the main rectangular frame I have bolted another 2 I-beams on top to mount the engine and alternator to (alternator hasn't come yet) I welded a 3mm plate inside the main frame and have put some rubber matting on top of that then bolted the I-beams down to the main frame, this sandwiches the rubber matting and prevents the metal plate from making a shit load of noise which is what happened before I put the rubber matting down.

The problem I am having is that once the engine gets up to speed it starts bouncing the entire frame, which I calculated weighs just over 190kg. I think the issue is primarily with the castor wheels, I started it up briefly without the rubber matting however it was getting a bit late at night so I only ran it for a couple of minutes if that and didn't notice any bouncing so it could be a combination of the rubber matting as well as the castor wheels.

The two beams the engine is bolted to are bolted tightly against the main frame, this causes the rubber to be compressed as the rubber is about 15-20mm thick and the gap under the beam to the plate is about 10mm.

The engine is reasonably balanced I think compared to some stories I have read about listeroids, when I had it sitting on my hydraulic trolley it would bounce but was relatively well behaved, I am picking up a radiator for it tonight so at least I Can attempt to balance it however it is too dangerous to attempt until I get this oscillation issue sorted as it really gets bouncing. I might take a video of it tomorrow for you guys.

here is a picture of the engine on the frame


this is a pic of the type of castor wheels that I am using.


Any way, let me know if you guys have had any similar issues or have any ideas :)

Thanks!

5
Listeroid Engines / Adam vs listeroid .. lister wins
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:39:19 AM »
hey guys, my mate came around so I thought I would show him my new toy, I made sure last time I shut it down that I used the decomp to turn it off rather than the fuel rack so that it was nicely charged with diesel ready to go... he took the bait :)

[youtube]c8s8EwRnbnM[/youtube]

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Listeroid Engines / Need help starting listeroid for first time
« on: February 29, 2012, 03:34:18 PM »
Hello guys,

I have purchased a JKSON listeroid and I am having a bit of trouble getting it started for the first time. I have cleaned it out and checked a few things over, I really just want to start it up for a minute or so just to make sure it runs before I start building a base for it blah blah....

so I have marked up the TDC mark and the 20deg BTDC for spill timing, I followed the utterpower cd spill timing spec however I think I am still getting bubbles in the system from somewhere as I am getting a multiple crick noise instead of a single crick. If I remove the valve and spring and roll the flywheel back >20 degrees then fuel flows out with no bubbles at all, however once I put the valve and spring back in and crank it over I get small bubbles coming out. I have got no idea where these bubbles are coming from, could they be getting sucked in from somewhere else? the rack is a little sloppy but I have never seen any other lister racks so I don't know what is normal. When it's cranked over and I drop the de-comp it puffs some nice diesel smoke but doesn't actually kick at all or attempt to start.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have tried rocking it back and forwards for a really long time and it's still cricking multiple times, I have bled and re-bled the lines but still can't find out where this air is coming from... Any ideas or things I can check is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

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