Has anyone enclosed a diesel generator for noise attenuation ?
I intend to surround my R175 Changfa with an close fitting insulated enclosure to really silence the system along with the new "dual tank" muffler.
My fear is that the generator head will overheat. It's a 4KW head which will be loaded to 1.5kw continuous.
If I run a cooling duct to the inlet of the generator fan it would create a massive channel for noise to escape.
How did you get around this issue?

Or ... maybe it's not an issue at all ?

veggie

For those who have not seen this wonderfully produced story....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBLfyhophsY

Here's the first test of the new Changfa R175 CHP unit.

Gave me something to do during lockdowns   

Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
  (This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
  loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.

The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas

Simple, effective .... and portable !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yElSsnKJit0

Many members have asked how to add electric start to their listeroids.
Suggestions range from air motors to automotive starters to golf cart starter/generators.

I thought of one very simple method that may work on almost any system
(Unless you are off grid ...  but even that may not be an issue if you have enough battery power and a large enough inverter)

All it requires is an 1800 rpm AC electric motor and a switch. Perhaps 3/4 HP or 1HP.
The 1800 rpm electric motor would be mounted on the same base as the engine with a belt running around the flywheel of the Lister.
For the normal 23" flywheels, the electric motor pulley would be 9.2" diameter to give a 2.5:1 belt ratio (more on that below).
The trick is to not overspeed the electric motor once the Lister starts. This prevents issues of back-feeding the grid.

For example...
This example assume a 6/1 CS style engine running at 650 rpm.
A starter system belt ratio of 2.5 to 1 would spin the Lister flywheel up to 720 rpm if the electric motor were left to run up to full speed unloaded.
Long before that the user would drop the decompression lever and start the engine, then switch off the electric motor.
The motor would spin free on it's bearings with no power flowing to it ... or from it.
With the engine running at 650 rpm, the 2.5:1 belt drive would be spinning the motor at 1625 rpm, well below the motor's normal running speed.

I'm not saying this will work for sure because I have not tried it.
It would be interesting to hear comments from others about the possibility using such a simple system.

food for discussion

veggie

Thoughts ?
I currently have 2 large automotive mufflers in a long 25 ft exhaust system on my Roid. (20 ft of that is outdoors)
The pipe is 2" diameter all the way.
It discharges into my back yard area. Almost silent but not to my satisfaction.
I am considering adding a 3rd large muffler at the end of the run.
Would this be too much back pressure for a Lister type?

cheers

Curious,
I see many Lister CS engines with the outer face of the flywheel unpainted.
In fact some look like they were sanded, polished, and oiled.
Is there a reason for this? or is it maybe tradition. For an antique look ?

Far anyone who is planning to replace an injector pump or modify the injection timing by adjusting the shim pack thickness you may find this helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ZrAAYGt40