Puppeteer

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - veggie

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
Changfa Engines / Chagfa 175 CHP unit - First Test
« on: January 04, 2021, 08:24:48 PM »
Here's the first test of the new Changfa R175 CHP unit.

Gave me something to do during lockdowns   ;)

Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
  (This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
  loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.

The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas


2
Things I want to Buy / WANTED: Changfa R175 (or other brand)
« on: December 31, 2020, 05:18:47 PM »
Anyone in Canada have a Changfa style 175 for sale.
Used, broken, or new, does not matter.
Please PM me if so.

veggie

3
Listeroid Engines / Listeroid Starter - Finally a good solution
« on: December 16, 2020, 06:56:46 PM »
Simple, effective .... and portable !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yElSsnKJit0

4
Original Lister Cs Engines / Start-o-matic relay sequency
« on: November 28, 2020, 08:32:06 PM »
Curious ....

On a genuine start-o-matic, how does the starting system know when to release the decompression lever to allow starting. ?    ???
I would assume the starting motor does not fight compression immediately.

5
Listeroid Engines / Simple Electric Starter for Listeroids
« on: November 11, 2020, 11:59:54 PM »
Many members have asked how to add electric start to their listeroids.
Suggestions range from air motors to automotive starters to golf cart starter/generators.

I thought of one very simple method that may work on almost any system
(Unless you are off grid ...  but even that may not be an issue if you have enough battery power and a large enough inverter)

All it requires is an 1800 rpm AC electric motor and a switch. Perhaps 3/4 HP or 1HP.
The 1800 rpm electric motor would be mounted on the same base as the engine with a belt running around the flywheel of the Lister.
For the normal 23" flywheels, the electric motor pulley would be 9.2" diameter to give a 2.5:1 belt ratio (more on that below).
The trick is to not overspeed the electric motor once the Lister starts. This prevents issues of back-feeding the grid.

For example...
This example assume a 6/1 CS style engine running at 650 rpm.
A starter system belt ratio of 2.5 to 1 would spin the Lister flywheel up to 720 rpm if the electric motor were left to run up to full speed unloaded.
Long before that the user would drop the decompression lever and start the engine, then switch off the electric motor.
The motor would spin free on it's bearings with no power flowing to it ... or from it.
With the engine running at 650 rpm, the 2.5:1 belt drive would be spinning the motor at 1625 rpm, well below the motor's normal running speed.

I'm not saying this will work for sure because I have not tried it.
It would be interesting to hear comments from others about the possibility using such a simple system.

food for discussion

veggie

6
Changfa Engines / Changfa type parts
« on: November 11, 2020, 04:15:58 PM »

Has anyone found a supplier of the changfa (or JiangDong or LianFa, or.... or...) engine parts?
I need an intake valve for an R175

Can't seem to find any US suppliers. Even Chinese sites are offering less of this stuff.

7
Listeroid Engines / 6/1 silencing
« on: September 01, 2020, 03:37:35 AM »
Thoughts ?
I currently have 2 large automotive mufflers in a long 25 ft exhaust system on my Roid. (20 ft of that is outdoors)
The pipe is 2" diameter all the way.
It discharges into my back yard area. Almost silent but not to my satisfaction.
I am considering adding a 3rd large muffler at the end of the run.
Would this be too much back pressure for a Lister type?

cheers

8
Original Lister Cs Engines / New Lister Model
« on: April 09, 2020, 09:42:46 PM »
Smaller version of the CS6 for light duty applications....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmM-603KoCA

9
Original Lister Cs Engines / Unpainted Flywheels
« on: April 05, 2020, 05:03:26 AM »

Curious,
I see many Lister CS engines with the outer face of the flywheel unpainted.
In fact some look like they were sanded, polished, and oiled.
Is there a reason for this? or is it maybe tradition. For an antique look ?

10
Straight Vegetable Oil / How long does WVO last ?
« on: March 27, 2020, 10:46:45 PM »
I have some WVO stored in a tote for 4 years now.
I does not smell bad or "painty".
It's de-watered and filtered before being stored.
Stored outdoors in the shade and it freezes every winter.
But I fear that this stuff must have a shelf life?  ???

What's your experience with the life of WVO ?

11
Changfa Engines / AIr Cooled Chinese L186 Diesel Injector Pump R&R
« on: March 11, 2020, 08:04:21 PM »
Far anyone who is planning to replace an injector pump or modify the injection timing by adjusting the shim pack thickness you may find this helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ZrAAYGt40

12
Everything else / Inverter question - Resistive loads
« on: January 15, 2020, 04:59:45 PM »

Can I run an emersion heater from an inverter? or is this bad for the FET's ?
I have a DC system with a small diesel to keep it charged and it can run when loads are applied also.
The DC alternator is rated 140 amps and should be able to keep up to a 1.5kw drain.
How do mod-sine wave and pure sine wave inverters react to resistive loads.?
In this case, a 4KW, 120 volt inverter and a 1.5 kw, 120 volt heating element.


13
Other Slow Speed Diesels / First smoke for the Z482
« on: December 29, 2019, 12:17:31 AM »
Hi All,

Here's a quick look at the kubota Z482 build that I just finished.
I bought the engine used and it came from a freight truck Auxiliary Power Unit.
Internally it is in excellent shape.
It's coupled via belt drive to a 4kw generator head.
I have been pecking away at this project for 3 years. Nice to finally have it completed.

First smoke...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDcWbOcVmGQ

It was not this pretty when I first got it. Picture below.

Veggie

14
Everything else / Space Heating from Engine Heat
« on: October 31, 2019, 11:30:34 PM »
I have calculated that my 50 gallon solar storage tank can supply my garage with 12 hrs of heat between 160 Degf and 50 Degf if I heat it to the upper value and then draw 3500 btu/hr in the form of a fan/radiator until the lower value is reached. To help heat my garage space.

I can charge the tank to 160f by running the Listeroid for 4 hrs and transfering the coolant heat and electrical heat (via an electric heating element) to the tank fluid.

I have a fan/coil capable of 18500 btu's output which can be piped to the tank and be energized to blow heat into the space when the tank liquid reaches 160f.

Problem:
When the fan/coil is energized it will exchange far more heat (Btu's) when the water temperature is at 160f than it will when the water temp falls to, say 65f.
So I will get most of my heat transfer taking place in the first few hours of the cycle and little transfer later in the cycle becasue of the lower differential temps across the radiator as the water loses heat.
If I can pull a constant 3500 btu's from the tank, it should last 11 - 12 hours through the night.

What do you guys think of this solution....

Cycle the Fan/Coil based on tank temperature so excess heat is not expelled at the start of the cycle.
Basically cycling the fan (and circ pump) to control the release of heat over time.

As and example...
(Just for illustration, I have not calculated these values yet.)

======= FAN/COIL CYCLING==========
Tank Temp    Cycle time (ON-OFF) Minutes
==================================
160             5 - 10 Short heating cycle
150             6 - 10
140             7 - 10
130             8 - 10
120             9 - 10
110             10 - 9
100             11 - 8
90              12 - 7
80              13 - 6
70              14 - 5
60              15 - 3
50              16 - 0 Long heating cycle

Does this approach make sense?
A simple Arduino program with a motor relay could run the heater fan and circ pump.

Some of you guys that are more familiar with heating and cooling systems may have an opinion as to whether I'm on the right track.?
I would use this as an initial system to prove the garage CHP model.
Later I could make the controls more intelligent by having the microcontroller measure the change in tank temperature over time (BTU's used and BTU's remaining) and dynamically adjust the fan cycle time to budget the heat over a 12 hour period.

And is an tank target temperature of 160f realistic? or should I take it higher and store more heat?

cheers,
veggie

15
Listeroid Engines / Listeroid Oil Change Interval
« on: October 24, 2019, 12:26:55 AM »
The original oil change intervals set for Lister CS engines were determined back in the 1940's era.
Oils of that vintage may not have been of the same quality and molecular blend as today's oils.
So I'm wondering if we can extend the recommended interval from 250 hrs to something longer?

Reasoning:
1] Most of the newer listeroid variants have roller bearings instead of sleeve bearings on the crank.
This reduces frictional shear at the bearings and makes for a cooler running bearing. Less demand on the oil.

2] Low temperature requirements. The sump is far from the cylinder head & cylinder and the oil is not circulated up to the head where it can gain heat so the whole oil system runs at a fairly low temperature of something like 130f.
Heat breakdown is probably not existent.

3] Today's good quality oils have superior molecular chains and bonds with great fluid film strength properties and oxidation resistance.

I realize that many users simply buy the cheapest basic oil they can find and then change every 250 hrs or less.
That's fine too. But what are your thoughts on longer duration intervals?
I am in the process of adding a small 12 volt gear pump and an inline automotive filter to my Roid again.
The pump will be on a timer relay which runs the filter system on a 50% duty cycle of 10 minutes on...10 minutes off when ever the engine is running.
So the oil should be kept fairly clean.
I was thinking of extending the oil change interval to 500 hrs.

Anyone experimented with longer oil change intervals ?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6