1
Listeroid Engines / New Listeroid Model
« on: June 14, 2021, 04:27:05 AM »This new unit from Rajkot is slightly smaller than the current Listeroid 6/1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqJoRK2t1VI
Home of the Listeroid - Since 2005
News:
For those who don't know, regular poster Bob (aka Ajaffa) and his wife recently lost his house and many of their possessions (but apparently not his engines!) to a bush fire. Please see this post for details of an appeal to help him rebuild. Thanks, everyone from LEF.
https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8876.0
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This new unit from Rajkot is slightly smaller than the current Listeroid 6/1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqJoRK2t1VI
2
Waste Vegetable Oil / Lister CS type Engines and Vegetable Oil Fuel
« on: May 06, 2021, 06:28:31 PM »For anyone interested in going down this road, here is a documented lab test with interesting recommendations.
3
Listeroid Engines / Need help with Injector Pump (Minimum Engine Speed)
« on: May 03, 2021, 05:03:49 PM »
Hi All,
Is anyone familiar with the internals of the Injector Pump and whether modifications can be made to the minimum flow point?
I have a project where I would like the engine to run continuous at 250 rpm.
The problem is that when the speed is set any lower than 325 rpm, it cuts out !!!
The governor linkage is quite free and I have tried several springs ranging from stiff to very soft.
Even using my hand on the rack plunger I can control the speed closely down to 325 rpm and the engine stops at any point below that.
I prepared a video to demonstrate.
You will note that as the engine speed hits the current setting (325 rpm) it cuts out, then as it slows below the set point the governor gives a small tug and the engine fires with a thump to bring it back to 325. Then the injector pump stops fuel flow and the same cycle repeats. You will hear a thump every several revolutions as the engine fires and then cuts out to coast again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8ZdIOONaOU
I have seen many engines running at very low speeds. So I know it's possible.
Such as this one...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jTxVD5Vaas
Any ideas for modifications
Is anyone familiar with the internals of the Injector Pump and whether modifications can be made to the minimum flow point?
I have a project where I would like the engine to run continuous at 250 rpm.
The problem is that when the speed is set any lower than 325 rpm, it cuts out !!!
The governor linkage is quite free and I have tried several springs ranging from stiff to very soft.
Even using my hand on the rack plunger I can control the speed closely down to 325 rpm and the engine stops at any point below that.
I prepared a video to demonstrate.
You will note that as the engine speed hits the current setting (325 rpm) it cuts out, then as it slows below the set point the governor gives a small tug and the engine fires with a thump to bring it back to 325. Then the injector pump stops fuel flow and the same cycle repeats. You will hear a thump every several revolutions as the engine fires and then cuts out to coast again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8ZdIOONaOU
I have seen many engines running at very low speeds. So I know it's possible.
Such as this one...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jTxVD5Vaas
Any ideas for modifications
4
Everything else / Generator Enclosures
« on: April 10, 2021, 04:29:40 PM »
Has anyone enclosed a diesel generator for noise attenuation ?
I intend to surround my R175 Changfa with an close fitting insulated enclosure to really silence the system along with the new "dual tank" muffler.
My fear is that the generator head will overheat. It's a 4KW head which will be loaded to 1.5kw continuous.
If I run a cooling duct to the inlet of the generator fan it would create a massive channel for noise to escape.
How did you get around this issue?
Or ... maybe it's not an issue at all ?
veggie
I intend to surround my R175 Changfa with an close fitting insulated enclosure to really silence the system along with the new "dual tank" muffler.
My fear is that the generator head will overheat. It's a 4KW head which will be loaded to 1.5kw continuous.
If I run a cooling duct to the inlet of the generator fan it would create a massive channel for noise to escape.
How did you get around this issue?
Or ... maybe it's not an issue at all ?
veggie
5
Listeroid Engines / Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 03, 2021, 03:38:07 PM »
Some have had adequate noise reduction using a 25 lb propane bottle.
The idea I wanted to try was to have 2 bottles in series creating a first stage expansion, and then a second stage expansion.
I purchased two 5 gallon portable air compressor tanks and with the help of a welder friend, added a few threaded ports so that the two tanks could be screwed together.
Also added were 2 threaded ports for inlet and outlet.
The outlet port is oriented to allow a vertical stack to be added.
Below are pictures during construction....
Here are two videos of the tests that I ran.
I must point out that in both cases there is also an automotive muffler at the engine (which are almost useless on their own).
First is a test with the listeroid. I did this test before finishing and painting the unit in case it was a failure.
It turns out that the muffler did a fine job of almost eliminating the noise. (Neighbours cannot hear it)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRx_mrKnouU
Second test was after the unit was completed and connected to a changfa engine running at 1150 rpm.
You will note that the engine is mechanically loud indoors, but outside the muffler is extremely effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EefDlxHy1uU
<click on pictures to enlarge>
Veggie
The idea I wanted to try was to have 2 bottles in series creating a first stage expansion, and then a second stage expansion.
I purchased two 5 gallon portable air compressor tanks and with the help of a welder friend, added a few threaded ports so that the two tanks could be screwed together.
Also added were 2 threaded ports for inlet and outlet.
The outlet port is oriented to allow a vertical stack to be added.
Below are pictures during construction....
Here are two videos of the tests that I ran.
I must point out that in both cases there is also an automotive muffler at the engine (which are almost useless on their own).
First is a test with the listeroid. I did this test before finishing and painting the unit in case it was a failure.
It turns out that the muffler did a fine job of almost eliminating the noise. (Neighbours cannot hear it)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRx_mrKnouU
Second test was after the unit was completed and connected to a changfa engine running at 1150 rpm.
You will note that the engine is mechanically loud indoors, but outside the muffler is extremely effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EefDlxHy1uU
<click on pictures to enlarge>
Veggie
6
Original Lister Cs Engines / THE LISTER STORY
« on: March 16, 2021, 03:51:00 PM »For those who have not seen this wonderfully produced story....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBLfyhophsY
7
Generators / Axial Flux Generator Search
« on: January 30, 2021, 12:45:21 AM »Anyone know of a supplier of Axial Flux generator kits or parts?
Or has anyone built one ?
I have seen DIY plans on how to build them but making my own windings and epoxying everything into a functioning unit it a bit more that I want to tackle.
I thought there were windmill DIY companies who catered to building these, but perhaps many of them have dropped away.
Imagine one on the flywheel of a Lister !
8
Changfa Engines / Chagfa 175 CHP unit - First Test
« on: January 04, 2021, 08:24:48 PM »
Here's the first test of the new Changfa R175 CHP unit.
Gave me something to do during lockdowns
Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
(This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.
The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas
Gave me something to do during lockdowns
Some features/changes to the original engine.
- Larger and better quality air filter
- Machined an adapter to divert oil from the internal screen to an external filter.
(This increases the oil capacity by almost 1 litre)
- Removed the hopper cooling system and replaced it with a pump driven closed circuit
loop which passes through a flat plate heat exchanger allowing heat to be removed to a useful application.
- Installed a lighter throttle lever spring which seems to allow the governor to be more sensitive at the lower rpm.
The unit is currently designed to run continuous at 1100 rpm. In this test it is loaded to 900 watts with an electric heater.
At 1500 watts the engine bogs down so I suspect the 900 watt load is approximately 85% of full load.
https://youtu.be/8yGpl7Dmvas
9
Things I want to Buy / WANTED: Changfa R175 (or other brand)
« on: December 31, 2020, 05:18:47 PM »
Anyone in Canada have a Changfa style 175 for sale.
Used, broken, or new, does not matter.
Please PM me if so.
veggie
Used, broken, or new, does not matter.
Please PM me if so.
veggie
10
Listeroid Engines / Listeroid Starter - Finally a good solution
« on: December 16, 2020, 06:56:46 PM »11
Original Lister Cs Engines / Start-o-matic relay sequency
« on: November 28, 2020, 08:32:06 PM »
Curious ....
On a genuine start-o-matic, how does the starting system know when to release the decompression lever to allow starting. ?
I would assume the starting motor does not fight compression immediately.
On a genuine start-o-matic, how does the starting system know when to release the decompression lever to allow starting. ?
I would assume the starting motor does not fight compression immediately.
12
Listeroid Engines / Simple Electric Starter for Listeroids
« on: November 11, 2020, 11:59:54 PM »
Many members have asked how to add electric start to their listeroids.
Suggestions range from air motors to automotive starters to golf cart starter/generators.
I thought of one very simple method that may work on almost any system
(Unless you are off grid ... but even that may not be an issue if you have enough battery power and a large enough inverter)
All it requires is an 1800 rpm AC electric motor and a switch. Perhaps 3/4 HP or 1HP.
The 1800 rpm electric motor would be mounted on the same base as the engine with a belt running around the flywheel of the Lister.
For the normal 23" flywheels, the electric motor pulley would be 9.2" diameter to give a 2.5:1 belt ratio (more on that below).
The trick is to not overspeed the electric motor once the Lister starts. This prevents issues of back-feeding the grid.
For example...
This example assume a 6/1 CS style engine running at 650 rpm.
A starter system belt ratio of 2.5 to 1 would spin the Lister flywheel up to 720 rpm if the electric motor were left to run up to full speed unloaded.
Long before that the user would drop the decompression lever and start the engine, then switch off the electric motor.
The motor would spin free on it's bearings with no power flowing to it ... or from it.
With the engine running at 650 rpm, the 2.5:1 belt drive would be spinning the motor at 1625 rpm, well below the motor's normal running speed.
I'm not saying this will work for sure because I have not tried it.
It would be interesting to hear comments from others about the possibility using such a simple system.
food for discussion
veggie
Suggestions range from air motors to automotive starters to golf cart starter/generators.
I thought of one very simple method that may work on almost any system
(Unless you are off grid ... but even that may not be an issue if you have enough battery power and a large enough inverter)
All it requires is an 1800 rpm AC electric motor and a switch. Perhaps 3/4 HP or 1HP.
The 1800 rpm electric motor would be mounted on the same base as the engine with a belt running around the flywheel of the Lister.
For the normal 23" flywheels, the electric motor pulley would be 9.2" diameter to give a 2.5:1 belt ratio (more on that below).
The trick is to not overspeed the electric motor once the Lister starts. This prevents issues of back-feeding the grid.
For example...
This example assume a 6/1 CS style engine running at 650 rpm.
A starter system belt ratio of 2.5 to 1 would spin the Lister flywheel up to 720 rpm if the electric motor were left to run up to full speed unloaded.
Long before that the user would drop the decompression lever and start the engine, then switch off the electric motor.
The motor would spin free on it's bearings with no power flowing to it ... or from it.
With the engine running at 650 rpm, the 2.5:1 belt drive would be spinning the motor at 1625 rpm, well below the motor's normal running speed.
I'm not saying this will work for sure because I have not tried it.
It would be interesting to hear comments from others about the possibility using such a simple system.
food for discussion
veggie
13
Changfa Engines / Changfa type parts
« on: November 11, 2020, 04:15:58 PM »Has anyone found a supplier of the changfa (or JiangDong or LianFa, or.... or...) engine parts?
I need an intake valve for an R175
Can't seem to find any US suppliers. Even Chinese sites are offering less of this stuff.
14
Listeroid Engines / 6/1 silencing
« on: September 01, 2020, 03:37:35 AM »
Thoughts ?
I currently have 2 large automotive mufflers in a long 25 ft exhaust system on my Roid. (20 ft of that is outdoors)
The pipe is 2" diameter all the way.
It discharges into my back yard area. Almost silent but not to my satisfaction.
I am considering adding a 3rd large muffler at the end of the run.
Would this be too much back pressure for a Lister type?
cheers
I currently have 2 large automotive mufflers in a long 25 ft exhaust system on my Roid. (20 ft of that is outdoors)
The pipe is 2" diameter all the way.
It discharges into my back yard area. Almost silent but not to my satisfaction.
I am considering adding a 3rd large muffler at the end of the run.
Would this be too much back pressure for a Lister type?
cheers
15
Original Lister Cs Engines / New Lister Model
« on: April 09, 2020, 09:42:46 PM »
Smaller version of the CS6 for light duty applications....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmM-603KoCA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmM-603KoCA