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Topics - Geno

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1
This bowl is one of the later, one piece designs without the keyless bushing mod. It can be sent to Simple Centrifuge to be upgraded. You can get some runout with this design and fiddling is sometimes needed to get it perfectly smooth. This design works well. Ive never changed the filter on the Listeroid and Ive gotten 5k miles on the Benz filter. I dont get my oil above 110f before centrifuging. More heat would improve performance. Im going to upgrade to the newest rotor design and will not need this one. Ive seen them as low as $450.00 on the SC website but I paid a bit more. If you haven't seen one in person having it professionally machined from billet and balanced makes for a very nice piece.

Bowl only.

Thanks, Geno
turbogeno|at|gmail|dot|com


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Everything else / Cogen Phase 1 Complete
« on: December 06, 2007, 12:15:41 PM »
Nothing has been run to the hot water furnace in the basement. (phase 2) I still need to clean things up and do some temp testing on the pex runs but I’m very satisfied with what I have so far.

All the pex is run and insulated to my cast iron rad in the living room and I got the rad up to about 155°F the other day. 19°F outdoor temps and a 2100 watt load on the engine, 145’ round trip on the pex. If I want it will be easy to add more insulation to most of the pex. The pex runs through my garage attic to the house attic, then down to a closet where the valves are and out the wall into the living room rad.

It I remember correctly the cost of the pex and insulation was around $2.10 per foot, acquired from different ebay vendors. About $125.00 for the fittings, ebay as well

There’s about 16 gallons of coolant in the secondary loop. It took 60 minutes for it to reach 95°F where it enters the living room rad. In 2 hours it was 140°F. At that point I was losing about 2°F on the inbound, 75’ run and the rad shed another 6°F. Accurate readings were difficult. All test points were flat black but the smooth surfaces seem to read about 5° colder than the rough ones and my test points were a combination of both. The pump is a Grundfos 25-58U, another ebay item. It didn’t come with specs and I can’t find any on the internet. I made sure it worked with a garden hose when I got it and it moved a lot of water on high with no head. It’s a 3-speed unit and I had it on medium all day.

I know my delta is really low at ~150°F but it will get better with additional loads. However, the engine room stayed at a nice 80°F, the coolant returning to the engine was 140°F and I had a nice toasty antique radiator keeping the house warm. The wood stove was on but as low as possible. I’ll need it tonight, Their saying 3° lows.

I'm quite certain I’ll be able to heat the domestic hot water to more than acceptable temps. I won’t be able to take 3 showers in a row but it should be more than I need.

Thanks, Geno

Engine coolant heat-ex

Engine coolant heat-ex 1

Exhaust heat-ex

Pump and accessory hookup. Grundfos UPS 25-58U

Living room rad

Pex and insulation

Bad plumbing diagram. Gen shed and garage

Bad plumbing diagram2. House, first floor and basement

3
Original Lister Cs Engines / Pics Of My "New" 63? 6/1
« on: August 08, 2007, 04:36:39 PM »


Its filthy. Its got some issues. The price was OK. But its mine.
Its mostly apart. One Gib key had the head broken off and the taper pin on the cam collar is smushed which is holding me up a bit. It felt pretty tight when I looked at it and even made some smoke. I think somebody botched a rebuild and shut it down shortly there after. The upper shell has some flaking, there were no cam cover or cylinder base gaskets, just red silicone. I got to borrow some precision tools. It looks like the crank pin is turned .020" under. The cylinder cross hatch is gone but the top ring had .020" end gap throughout the cylinder. The intake valve is worn but a new Indian one fits well. No slop to speak of in the cam bearings. Gears look OK. Its going to be a big job and I'm not sure if I spent my money wisely, but its an original with SOM flywheels.

http://www.genedevera.com/temp/som/

Thanks, Geno

4
Original Lister Cs Engines / Original hub width and gib key shaft length
« on: February 25, 2007, 02:26:10 PM »
Does anyone know the width of the hub and the length of the gib key shaft on an original 6/1. The reason I ask is….

My JKson hub is 4” wide, the shaft on my gib key is 3.5” and if you leave 5/8” of the shaft showing (most pullers are made of 1/2” plate) you only get 2 7/8” of the key in the keyway.

Thanks, Geno

5
Listeroid Engines / IP Roller Tappet Question
« on: February 14, 2007, 11:41:58 AM »
My roller was drilled a little bit off, .018” to be exact. If my measurements are correct my timing changes about 6° for every full rotation of the adjuster and one thread on the adjuster is close to .045” That means my timing varies by up to 2.25° randomly. Depending on where the roller is when timing is set, it could go up, down or a combination of both. It could also explain why I have had some trouble timing it.

It looks like the roller is held in place by a hollow pin and a small tapered pin was driven in on one or both ends to secure it.

Does anyone have experience taking these things apart? I don’t want to bugger the thing up and have to wait for a new one. I have a drill press but no lathe.

Thanks, Geno

6
Engines / TP Filter Flow Rate
« on: November 11, 2006, 11:48:52 PM »
I get 1-1.5 oz. per minute of flow through my Frantz oil filter. More than that blows the seal on it. I guess the low oil temp has a lot to do with the low flow but is it enough. It takes 2-2.5 hrs to filter all the oil once. The Frantz website says the best flow rate is a quart a minute at 180°F. I'm lucky if my oil temp is 100°F in the filter.
Thanks, Geno

7
Engines / Comet Chamber/Glow Plug
« on: October 14, 2006, 11:34:13 PM »
The pictures I’ve seen of head plug mounted glow plugs show the tip of the glow plug sticking out ¼-½” into the chamber and right in the path of the injector spray. Does anyone think this would take away from the comet chambers effectiveness and how much? Sir Harry spent a lot of time on its design and I want it to work correctly, but its also getting cold.
Thanks, Geno

8
Everything else / Fluid to Fluid Wood Boiler Heat Exchanger
« on: September 01, 2006, 12:30:09 PM »
I want to capture some coolant heat. The wood boiler heat exchangers are real nice. They even have the right fittings. 10 plate 92.00$. 20 plate 159.00$ 40 plate 192.00$ Does anybody know how these work and what size would be good for a Listeroid 6/1. I imagine a smaller one would do it.

Other types?

I wouldn't mind building something as long as its robust. I will not comprimise the primary coolant loop. Also, 4 to 6 hours overtime would pay for any of the Ebay units so nothing to complex.

http://cgi.ebay.com/OUTDOOR-WOOD-BOILER-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER_W0QQitemZ160025048798QQihZ006QQcategoryZ41987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER_W0QQitemZ160022488835QQihZ006QQcategoryZ41987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks Geno

9
Everything else / Engine Room Ventilation Fan
« on: August 27, 2006, 12:23:28 PM »
I had 2 computer fans for engine room ventilation which were not big enough for summer use. I replaced them with the big military surplus blower seen here. It uses about 425 watts. When I partially block the exaust the watts consumed goes down and continue to go down as I block more flow.
1) Why doesn't the wattage go up as the motor struggles to maintain speed?
2) If I put an adjustable damper on it will I reduce the blowers lifespan? With a damper, maintaining engine room temp will be real easy.





Thanks, Geno

10
Engines / Rings, Right Side Up?
« on: August 08, 2006, 04:37:11 PM »
I’m pretty sure I heard someone here say there is an up and down side to Listeroid rings. A search here brings up to many results. My Goetz rings seem to have none of the indicators shown on this page.  http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/compression_ring_installation.htm
They do have “GOE” stamped on one side but otherwise seem to be completely symmetrical. Does anyone know for sure?

Thanks, Geno

11
Listeroid Engines / Gen Shed, Engine Mounting Advise Please
« on: June 23, 2006, 03:54:13 PM »
Main question: Does anyone think it will shake loose or shake the shed apart mounted on the planks. I can pull some boards and put it on beams or concrete in the dirt but would rather not.



Those planks are 3x14s sitting on 4x4s with a slight slope to the right.
The engine shimmies but is not a hopper.
I cut down some old truck tires and will use the tread in 6 places under the frame.
I plan to use 4, 3/8x6” wood screws on each side of the frame to secure it to the planks.
That’s my garage to the left, not the house.

I’m guessing most of you will say to mount it in the ground. Lets see.

Thanks, Geno

12
Listeroid Engines / Right Cam Bushing
« on: June 09, 2006, 12:27:58 PM »
My right cam bushing was installed with the oil groove on the bottom. I assume this is wrong and it should be up?  I'll be putting it back together soon and want to make sure I do it right.



Thanks, Geno

13
Addition: It didn't work. You can only select 3 options and I can't modify the options. Don't vote I sent a msg to the moderator to delete the poll.


There are many people here who know more than I do so any suggestions to my options are welcome as they can be changed. I think.

Detailed descriptoins of the failure and pictures would be helpful.

3 votes allowed for owners with multiple engines.

14
Lister Based Generators / Any UPS/Inverter Experts Out There??
« on: May 26, 2006, 11:20:29 PM »
Model: FD5.3KVA
Manufacturer: Best Power Technology.

If the batteries on this thing ever die I can probably get it for free.
It was put into service around 12 years ago and has survived many lightning strikes in and around the building. There has been no maintenance on it in 10 years.

My main use would be to provide clean, constant voltage/frequency to my equipment/house.

If I hooked it up would It be more efficent to strap my ST head at 120 or 240?

It’s a big inverter but I don’t, at this time, have a good use for it.
Any comments on practical uses of any kind would be appreciated.

My main question is: Will my ST head provide clean enough power for it to even turn on. Newer UPS’s won’t turn on without good clean power.

The manual shows a 90% efficiency. Is clean power a good trade off to a 10% loss.

Its also got a 70 amp. break before make bypass switch. I can find a use for that!

Thanks, Geno




15
Listeroid Engines / Columbia University Study On Listeroids
« on: May 21, 2006, 04:41:08 PM »
There is a new link and page on the utterpower.com website which should be of great interest to all of us. This is the exact type of exposure and testing that Listeroids need if they are ever to be recognized as efficient, economical and clean sources of power to the people who make the BIG decisions on their future. A Columbia University study has the validity to put my back yard, mad scientist experiments to shame.
http://www.utterpower.com/modi.htm
http://www.me.columbia.edu/me3410/spring06/group01/index.html
I've only looked it over briefly so far.

I registered a new domain name this morning (http://www.genedevera.com )  and will be putting lots of information there including a description of, and a link to the project.

Anyone who can promote and spread information on this project should. If you have a website where you can put a link to and description of the project, even better.

http://listerengine.com/  certainly gets a lot more, and the right kind of traffic than mine does. Perhaps a link to and brief description of the project could help us all. The home page sure would be nice.  ;)

Thanks, Geno

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