Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - solarguy

Pages: [1]
1
Yeah, intro says it all pretty much.

I put the oscilloscope on the output of the ST head, just out of curiosity, and it looked like crap, not smooth at all.  Analysis of the timing indicated that this had nothing to do with the 6 impulse per second powerstroke which causes flicker (whole separate deal).  It was jagged, peaky and "messy" for lack of a better term.

I had the (apparently naive and incorrect) impression that rotating generating machinery normally produces pretty smooth wave forms.

Please note that I have not had any problems from this "messy" wave form.  I am just intellectually curious.

Finest regards,

troy

2
So I finally threw in the towel with my mickey mouse "commercial" puller. 

I finished my custom puller last night about 12:30 am and had to slap it on there and try it.  After about three good turns on the bolt, the flywheel  came loose and then slid right off.  The whole process took less than three minutes.  If you want/need to build one, here's how:

(click on the thumbnails to see the big pics)

Here's pics of the puller:

First an overview.  The two "C" shaped plates are installed behind the flywheel.  The two plates bolt together with (4) 1/4" capscrews.  The plate with the big hole is closest to the crankcase and just fits over the bearing housing.  The plate with the smaller hole fits nicely over the 2" crankshaft and does the actuall pulling on the hub of the flywheel.  When the two plates are bolted together around the crankshaft, there are three holes available for the 3/8" allthread to connect to the 1/2" puller plate.  The puller plate is really (2) 1/4" disks welded together (because that's what I had laying around handy.  The central bolt is 5/8" allthread with a nut welded to the plate.  The nut goes toward the crankshaft.




Here's the hindmost plate that fits over the bearing housing closest to the engine:





Here's the second plate that bolts to the first plate and fits over the crank and actually pulls on the hub:




And here's the puller plate, self expanatory:



Sorry for the sloppy weld, cuts, ect.  I was in a hurry.  Didn't chip the slag off, etc. etc.  I know you've been there too...

Wooo Hooo, I can get on with the overhaul now.

Hope that helps somebody on down the road.

Finest regards,

troy


3
So yeah, gib key surprised me how easily it came out.  Flywheel won't budge and I've broken two pullers.

I've used the magic oil, gentle heat, gentle tapping, etc etc etc.

Ideas...

Thanks in advance,

troy

4
I have all my nice new shiny parts to put my FuKing 6-1 back into action.  One of the persistant problems with many of these engines, including mine, is weeping coolant through the head gasket.

The gasket uses two sheets of copper with a middle layer of fibrous "stuff".  That middle layer is problematic as it allows/encourages coolant to wick through and make a mess on the head/cylinder.  It also makes it hard to run a pressurized system as it will leak a significant amount under pressure.

So, here's the idea:

When I put the new head gasket in after the overhaul, I'm going to pre-treat the gasket with a particular kind of radiator stop-leak.  There are two general types, one has ground up stuff to help plug minute holes in your rad.  The other kind, the kind I'm interested in, contains sodium silicate, or water glass.  This stuff has the useful property that when it is exposed to antifreeze, it changes from a liquid to a solid.  So prior to installation, I soak/drip/inject this stuff into the fibrous layer, and after installation and torqeing, I add antifreeze and it plugs/stops all the wicking action.

Anybody see any downside to this?  Anybody have a better suggestion?  We have 2-4 weeks to plan alternate experiments before I have time to try it.

Finest regards,

troy

5
Listeroid Engines / Any hands-on experience with the GM-90 variant?
« on: April 03, 2006, 11:11:41 PM »
Anyone have hands-on experience with the GM-90 variant?

I am specifically interested in the pressurized oiling system.  How do they get pressure to the crank journal/con-rod bearing?  Is this oil pump a gear pump or the regular old low pressure piston pump driven off a cam lobe?

Finest regards,

troy

6
Dear esteemed group,

After approximately 1,600 hours of trouble free operation, my 6-1 crapped out on me.  The shell bearing on the big end of the conrod had worn down to the point where you couldn't see some of the oil grooves.  I have yet to tear it completely down for further hints as to why I had this failure.  It certainly wasn't low on oil and the coolant/cooling system was functioning normally.  I use a 190F thermostat, and it usually stays between 190-205F.  I use a name brand 10w-40 conventional petro oil specifically for diesels, changed every 250 hours.

This engine was completely disassemble upon arrival two years ago and completely de-sanded (I think...never had grit in the oil), new rings, honed cylinder, polished crank (which looked pretty good, and now has very bad scoring), static balanced, etc, etc, etc.  After refitting, it started every time easily and never used a drop of oil between changes.

It smelled hot, coolant temp shot up to 230F in less than an hour under moderate load and it had smoke wisps coming out of the crankcase vent/reed valve.  It was a little noisier than usual, but seeing the condition of the shell bearing and the amount of bearing material all over the crankcase, I'm surprised it didn't make a lot more rod noise.  As soon as I pulled the cover and started poking around I discovered the problem immediately and invented a new diagnostic test.  If you hear your thumb sizzle when you poke the con rod, your con rod has big problems.

I do recall that when I used plastigauge to asses bearing clearance on the crank, it was .003 to .004, which is a little bit out of spec on the big side.  George thought it would be ok, so I ran it that way.  How much clearance is too much?  If I face the same clearance after repair, would you shim the shell bearings, and if so, what is the ideal clearance?

More details to follow as I have time and parts to go forward.

On the one hand, I'm sad. 

On the other hand, this may be informative for everyone including me.

On the third hand, I was just bemoaning the fact that Rocket's new single was prettier than mine, so I guess I can fancy it up right away.  Be careful what you wish for.

I think I'm going to buy a new crank, and then try my hand at welding up the journal on the old one and turning it down to see if I can do it, keep it straight, etc.  The local auto-machine shop said it would be two or three months before they could turn my crank down, and I'm not sure even thirty thou would clean the crank up.  It looks bad.

Finest regards,

troy

Pages: [1]