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Messages - jeff

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Changfa Engines / Changfa 22hp ZS1115GM starter replacement source?
« on: September 04, 2021, 12:49:32 PM »
Iím back again with another issue with my genset, been trying to revive my genset that has been sitting for a while.

It seems that my starter had started a bad habit, smoking! Lol

Been trying to start it using the starter when I noticed it had some light smoke coming from it, not sure how it happened but that is beside the point, I need to find a replacement for it.

I pulled the starter off, hooked up a good battery and it spun the bendix and everything seem to work except when under load, wouldnít turn the flywheel much. This is after I seen some light smoke coming from it. Took it to a few auto parts stores and ask if they had something I could use locally, a no-go, took it to a auto electric repair shop to see if they could rewind it or rebuild it and he seem to saying he canít get parts for it. So now I am at a loss of what to do.

Has anybody had to replace a starter on these types on engines, is there some Chevy, Ford or ??? Type of starter that would fit this engine?

Many thanks again,

Bob and veggie,

I want to thank both of you for your valuable information, you helped me in a tremendous way!

I removed the valve cover again, took out the push rods, inspected everything I could. I took a acid brush and applies some light oil the the valve stems inside the head and with the end of my rubber mallet started to work the valve in/out numerous times. Reinstalled the push rods, found the feeler gauge that came with my spare parts kit  and proceeded to adjust them. I applied some anti-seize compound to the end of the intake valve stem, reassembled the valve cover, turned the hand crank while holding the decompression lever and I felt resistant, I could feel it pressing on the valve stem, removed the valve cover again and seen that the anti-seize compound had transferred to the decompression knob.

Previously I had straightened out the exhaust push rod, came out pretty straight, not 100% but I settled for 97%, close enough for me.

Everything is looking good so far, havenít  started it yet, had some nasty looking fuel, so I drained the fuel from the filters and got some fresh fuel ready to start this beast up again. Might have air in the system, donít know for sure how to purge the fuel system properly , I know that this can cause danger to ones hands and fingers if opening high pressure line while trying to purge system. Just what Iíve heard. Not sure which line I need to crack open and in which order. So if any of you know the safe procedure to proceed purging air from the system, it would be most welcomed information since starting this thread.

Iím going to have to get in the habit of starting this thing more frequently.

Thanks again fellasÖ


look on the outer edge of the flywheel, along side the ring gear
the marks will be covered in paint as they are not very deeply stamped by the factory.

why do you need the tdc marks?

only reason to use them in my opinion is if you are setting fuel timing.

bob g


I loosened the rocker arms to remove the push rods, need to be able to readjust them with feeler gauge. Not a mechanic by any means but understand most things with some guidance from others, lol

Any helpful guides for adjusting them properly? I did read the manual and got the values for each valve. Just donít know the proper sequence for doing that.

Many thanks Bob.


Well written!

I did not doing any of the things when parking the engine. Later this week I was reading the manual and remember seeing something about what you just said.

While the valve cover was removed, using the end of a rubber mallet I pressed both valves and they did move, so they must not of been stuck badly  I did put the starter to use after trying to turn by hand, so this is probably when the push rod got bent, Maybe did that a few times than stopped and realized something was amiss since I could turn by hand before the long parking of the genset.

I will do as you suggested and squirt some oil in each intake/exhaust.

Next question, where do I determine the DTC, is there some marking on the flywheel somewhere? Or do I need to pull the side cover and look for timing marks on the cam?

Many thanks for a well thought out plan of action, awesome, it makes sense now!

Thanks again!


When you pull the decompression lever (with everything assembled) do you feel the resistance of the valve spring? or does it just flap without any resistance?

It doesnít feel like it is hitting the valve stem at all, there is the resistance to the return spring on the outside, I apples some antiSeize compound on the internal valve stem, nothing got transferred to the decompression knob inside, I did rotate the flywheel but was difficult to get past the compression stroke.

Thanks so much for you input.


Here's a theory ...

If I am looking a the correct valve, the marks indicate that the de-comp lever is only contacting the edge of the rocker pad.
Being that the valve cover is held in place by a single stud in the center, the cover can be rotated somewhat to the left or right once installed.
Is it possible that the valve cover is being installed slightly rotated enough to make the actuator completely miss the rocker?

Also try holding the valve cover slightly rotated CW when installing. Then try again holding it slightly CCW.

See where I marked on the picture below....

just a thought,

Thanks for the response, make sense but the cover can’t be skewed cw nor ccw since there is a location pin in between the two valve, you can see it in the picture, it aligns the cover with no wiggle room to rotate either direction. I don’t thing the decompression knob inside can be moved left or right, will take apart again and see if I can shift it left or right to better hit the valve stem more in the center.

Did you see my other pic I uploaded, the one where the exhaust push rod is bent? Don’t know if I need to tear into engine to find the cause of this, omg! Not sure how this happened and the why it did? The last time I ran the genset, had no issues? Was this like this from factory, only have about 40 hrs on it.

Also the marks you see on the intake valve stem, that was from before, since then I applied some anti-seize compound on valve stem and engaged the decompression lever and nothing was transfer to decompression knob.

Thanks again for piping in! Appreciate the help! Lol

Good day

I decided to see if I could resolve my decompression lever not working like it had been before. I pulled the push rods and noticed the exhaust push rod is bent, see attached picture, this canít be a normal? Could I just see if I can straighten it, donít know where I could get another one.

This to me doesnít seem like it would cause my decompression lever from working since the lever engages the intake rocker arm, either way, it donít look normal to me. What say you?

The one on the right is the exhaust push rod. The intake is straight.

Forgot to add other pic attachment


I have a genset I built a few years back, changfa 1115 with a 10kw head. Had it running during a power outage, ran great for 3 days without issues. Fast forward a couple of years without running it nor starting it, was stored undercover and looks no worse for wear. Decided to bring it into my shop and see if I could hand crank it as I did before, no-go.

I engaged the decompression lever as before, tried to spin the flywheel and couldnít get past the compression stroke, tried a few times but no luck. Took of the valve cover, inspected what little is inside for the decompression mechanisms, just an oblong knob of sorts, outside lever moved as before. While cover was off I took the end of a rubber mallet and pressed the intake valve open, turned flywheel with hand crank and it moved past the compression stroke, no stuck valves. Hum? Decide to see if I could see if the internal decompression knob was engaging the intake valve stem, I applied a lite coat of anti-seize compound on end of valve stem, cleaned the decompression knob of any oil, assembled valve cover back on, engaged the decompression lever and hit the button to use the starter to turn the engine over a few time, pulled the cover and no transfer of anti-seize compound to the internal decompression knob, not hitting it at all?

It worked before using the hand crank and the decompression lever, but not now. Any ideas?

Also trying to see if I need to adjust the valve clearances but canít find the TDC marking anywhere on the flywheel? Again, any ideas where this marking is, externally?

Attached are a few pics of the inside of valve cover showing the know in question as well as the valve body.


Lister Based Generators / Re: Generator outlet 50Amp/220V receptical ?
« on: March 11, 2009, 12:36:55 AM »
I wanted to add a few more comments.

What I'm trying to do is to be able to use a power cord plugged into the genset and either plug it into my fuse panel for my wood working shop or plug it into my house panel via a Reliance inlet box.

Lister Based Generators / Generator outlet 50Amp/220V receptical ?
« on: March 10, 2009, 11:11:04 PM »

I've built myself a 10Kw genset and I am looking at ways to power my woodworking shop and as a backup for my home during power outages during hurricane season (Florida). I'm not looking to power the whole house, just some comfort circuits, lights, fans, microwave, frig, etc.

My genset is a diesel powered unit and can produce a 10Kw of power, an ST-10 head, it's a 22hp ChangFa single cyl engine

I'm trying to find a 50Amp, 220V twist lock female  receptical that will fit into a water proof Reliance outdoor box, anybody have any sources for this item? 

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