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Messages - WestCoastPat

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1
Generators / Re: Building a high power AC/DC generator system
« on: September 05, 2011, 04:38:58 AM »
I've been charging my home off grid system exclusively with the standard Chevy Delco alternator with no internal regulator, (no external regulator either...NONE) but a heavy variable load resistor to adjust amps, direct to a battery bank of 12- L16's for over 12 years. I've run different small engines over the years.  I run my CNC shop machines with the same setup but a (real) 9hp Honda. I don't have a meter on the 9 hp rig yet, so I don't know how many amps it's putting out.

I get a solid 55 amps for the house system. I'm running a 16hp Honda knock off, with a 7" sheave.  I run the engine slow as possible to put a good load on in, yet run the alt at 55 amps. 55 amps is the max I've been able to get out of these inexpensive alts dependably.

The best bang for the buck has been Napa alts at $36 each with a 3 year warranty. They are chinese rebuilt or maybe new. They look new, and out last any of the lower end auto supply cheap alts.  The Napa and 16hp chicom honda has ran excellent for 4 years now.

I have 2 lister JKson 6/1 kits I need to put together, and wondered how they would perform for this setup.

I'm going to machine some aluminum serpentine belt sheave pulleys for these setups, and start doing tests for fuel consumption, amp output and engine/alt longevity with rpm ratio tests, etc. For me direct to DC has been a cost effective off grid generator to keep running.

I never saw the need to run a big AC generator, that starts out with DC, then converts it to AC to be sent to your Grid inverter, that intern converts it back to DC for the battery bank.  I believe it's hard on the inverter as well. I've gotten a solid 10 years out of my L16s, and I'm still using my first set in the shop.

Another observation is when running machines with the AC gen and inverter charging, any startup surge really tasks my 8KW ac generator and Trace SW4000 inverter. Even a tablesaw start up. Running the alternator DC gen direct to the battery bank can handle pure surge power effortlessly.

I've been sold on it for a long time. Cheap reliable off grid power.

2
Listeroid Engines / Re: Casting void in Flywheel noted
« on: September 04, 2011, 04:01:32 AM »
Grind that puppy out and clean it up then MIG weld it.

I've MIG welded cast iron with great success.  Also- it looks bad, but if it's not real deep, I would run it. You can't tell by the pic.

3
Oops- Shows you what I know...  ;D

Proceeds from those right there running would pay for the cargo container.

4
Those look like single stage air compressor pumps to me, they look like they are meant to be belt driven to compress air into a storage tank. ;)

Huh? .... ???

5
Congrats bearhawk.

I've got 2- PS 6/1's in kit form I bought back in late 2008. Still in crates.

Probably a few buy generations for Joel in Portland than your engine. I was told they were much improved by spec order by then.

Have not had time to get them going yet, but need to soon.  Anyone have any experience with the later (last) PS listers that came out of Portland?

6
Just to clarify, the engines are not seized up. They will run even, just where ever the crack is from the water freezing is mixing oil with the water.

7
Hello Slow Speed Engine Fanatics...  ;D

I've got 3 Flying Fish (brand) R175A engines (water cooled) I purchased from Joel of Power Solutions up in Portland a few years ago. 6hp plus.

One (1) is brand new in the crate.

Two (2) have actually a few hours on them BUT-
were caught in a freeze and have obviously cracked somewhere and allowed fresh water to enter their pretty little crank case. THIS is what happens when you forget and get caught in an unexpected off season freeze as we have been known to get here in the Northern California Mountains.  Also is conducive to many self kicking in the rear end moments.

What will be included is the one new in the crate engine, and the 2 other engines. Factory tool kits that came with for all 3, that included rebuild kits with new injectors and other new parts. That's a lot of of extra parts.

These are the best of the horizontal german design chinese imports.  

Chinese R175A large flywheel Horizontal shaft water cooled diesels complete with shop manual, tool kit and rebuild kit from PS Powerful Soultions out of Portland, hopper style, NOT the radiator version.

Counter balanced crankshafts.

Price:

$945

I will deliver to Redding, Ca area.

PM for details




















8
Lister Based Generators / Re: belt tracking (or lack thereof)
« on: February 15, 2009, 06:54:58 PM »
I've been able to make serp belts track off to one side or the other simply by slight changes in aligment. If it comes off you are further out.

Not knowing exactly what the problem could be from not being there, I was just suggesting to eliminate alignment problems with a check.

Gotta be careful with bearings and belt tention. It may fix the problem, but you just don't want that to be the temporary fix if being overtight is forcing it to track.

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1 Electric start
« on: February 15, 2009, 06:13:04 PM »
Great starter mod.

I would say if you guys want a slam dunk with plenty of power for the Lister, use a 2 to 1 GM starter standard for a Chevy 6.5l Diesel engine. Probably started offering those starters on GM trucks in 1988-90 on up.

I have 2 trucks with the GM diesels and love em'.  My 84 4x4 with the 6.2 had the stock GM starter that was under powered IMO, and I upgraded it with the newer 2to1.  It bolts right up, and is a world of better performace.

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Lister Based Generators / Re: belt tracking (or lack thereof)
« on: February 15, 2009, 05:33:38 PM »
I would saay definintely alignment.   I like just enough tention to take the majority of the slap out when running. Too much tention is definitely hard on bearings.

A good alingment will not walk, even with the belt loose.  I'd put a straight edge across the pulleys, and a square to check every angle you can.  I think you may find you are off and need to shim your mounts.  Beer can aluminum even makes good fine shims.

I use a 1"x1" peice of aluminum heavy box tubing about 3' long and clamps or vise grip clamps to clamp the stock down tight to the outside of the engine flywheel, then align your gen or alternator pulley to the tubing and carefully tighten down and recheck everything.  Works every time.

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