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Messages - Montana

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1
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / 12/1 Powerline
« on: January 11, 2011, 04:09:44 PM »
Looking to sell my Powerline 12/1.  I bought new and stripped down cleaned and painted inside with Gyptal.  Tappets squared and crank polished with new mains.  Also using xyzer' Dipper.
Every thing on frame 7.5k generator Radiator and electric water pump.  Ran about 5/6 times for 3 hours.  This bitch is heavy! It didnt help adding all the extra steel.
Located in Butte Montana.
See picture http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=3782&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Make offer.

2
Engines / Re: Holy Jumping Listeroid Batman
« on: February 19, 2010, 03:34:38 PM »
Well I just dont have the time to spend working on this project any more.  I am going to sell it.  Dont know what to ask fo it as I didnt keep track of all the things I bought for it.  Here is what I have done to it so far. 
Completely disassy block cleaned it.
Painted inside with Gyptal.
Had the crank polished.
New rod bearings.
Replaced existing dipper with new Xyzer's dipper.
Truck radiator
Taco Recirulation pump
2 inch channel frame base
7Kw gen
Mounting frame for generator
Ran for no more than 20hrs
Pictures can be seen www.listerenginegallery.com under Mike
Give me an idea as to what to ask for it.
Thanks
Mike

3
Engines / Re: Holy Jumping Listeroid Batman
« on: February 12, 2010, 03:01:56 PM »
The fly wheels are 5 hole and they look perfect.  I have looked at the flywheel and cant see any where on them where weights have been added or taken away.  No holes drilled, nothing.  What about putting these things on something like a tire balancer?  Any way Im down to my last straw.  If I cant figure out how to get it fixed Im going to sale it.

4
Engines / Re: Holy Jumping Listeroid Batman
« on: February 10, 2010, 05:27:22 AM »
The Powerline 12/1 develops it's max power at 1000 rpm.  I'm lucky that every thing works a little below the max rpm.  I was very careful when I took it apart to make sure I put every thing back together the way it came off.  I have heard of stories of 2 left flywheels being put on and causing a problem.  In looking at these they both look the same.  Where could the imbalance be, flywheel, counterbalance on the crank?  Should I take the flywheels off and take them to a machine shop and speed balance them?  Is there a machine i could rent that would attach to the engine that would tell me what weight to put on?  I'm sure that if I do nothing it wouldn't be long before something major breaks.

5
Engines / Holy Jumping Listeroid Batman
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:34:55 PM »
I have a Powerline 12/1 with counter balance weights on the crank.  I bought this new last winter.  I disassembled it, cleaned it, had the crank polished and put new rod bearing in it.  I even painted it with Gyptal.  I put everything back together and cranked it up.  A little jumpy on the wood 6x6's ,not at full rpm's, but I just wanted to see if it would run.  It did.  I finally got the framing done and the generator mount finished.  Bolted everything together and it looked good.  Got around to pouring a 3x5x2 foot block of concrete to mount it on the beginning of this winter.  After everything was bolted and welded down i ran it and set the rpm with a laser tach.  Rpm not quite 980 on the engine and 1800 on the 7.5kw generator.  I have got to run it about 5 to 6 times for about 2 to 3 hours at a time.  The problem that I have noticed is vibration, a lot of vibration.  It is so bad that I can see the 4500 pound block of concrete move a little.  Everything is shaking on this thing, although not violently.  It has even shaken the rubber of the fuel tank straps and broken welds on the frame mounts.   
I had hoped to use this unit to power our off grid home this winter when the solar panels could not keep up.  But I have decided not to run it until I can get the vibration under control.  I'm afraid that some major will brake on the engine besides some of the welds on the frame.
Can anyone help me get the vibration under control ?

I have tried to post picts but they dont seem to come up.  I have them in the listerenginegallery under mike.

http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=3782&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=3772&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=3779&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

Thanks
Mike

6
Red Stone Engines / Re: Redstone engines
« on: May 17, 2009, 04:23:43 PM »
Well it looks like Im in the market for a redstone with a ST head.  Now I just have to locate one.
 
Just about finished up on my 12/1 project I have to get the YAK fat out of the generator bearings and keep an eye on the taper pin, just to make sure it doesnt come out.  The first listroid I bought off ebay, 6/1 Omega is going to set in the corner of the shop and collect dust.  That guy off ebay was a real JackASS.  Any way with all the BS I lost interest in it after I got the 12/1. 

7
Engines / Re: Valve Clearance
« on: April 13, 2009, 05:28:38 AM »
being off .005 would'nt effect it starting would it?

8
Engines / Re: Radiator for 12/1
« on: April 13, 2009, 05:25:55 AM »
Wow nice pict Bruce.
Well I just bought a Taco pump to use with the radiator.  I'll tie it in with the generator.  A thermal switch will turn the cooling fan on when needed.  So it looks like I'll order up the radiator tomorrow.

9
Engines / Radiator for 12/1
« on: April 12, 2009, 03:04:41 PM »
Im looking at using a radiator for my 12/1 and found one for a Suzuki Samurai 1.3l gas car.  It has mounting flanges on the side, 1 1/8 inch connections with 2 rows of down flow cooling and the core size is 15x13.75 inches.  I'll have to use a fan to help cool it.  What you guys think?  Is there any thing else out there that may be better?

10
Engines / Re: Valve Clearance
« on: April 12, 2009, 02:53:17 PM »
Boom was not what happen, just a figuar of speech for success.  It started just as I petered out on cranking it.  I didnt have the energy to follow thru as I let the handle slip off.
Yep Im looking for a place to bolt her.   I was thinking the basement but Im not sure how much noise or vibration to expect.  Ill run the exhaust out side. 
This 12/1 has huge CB inside and I thought it might run like the one video they showed with the water glass on top.   Im glad it wasnt a hopper.


11
Engines / Re: Valve Clearance
« on: April 11, 2009, 10:09:54 PM »
Ok I set the rockers to .008 clearance.  Thanks Nospark.

Well the "BEAST LIVES"  !!

After several tries to start it I was about to quit.  It would puff some smoke but no signs it was going to start.
I didnt think that I had but maybe one more burst of energy left to try it.  I also cheated on this next to last
attempt.  I went to the truck and got my can of ether, I know, I shouldnt do it but what the heck. Gave it a little snort and started cranking.
Boom it started at the last second but it started backwards.  Shut it off and with renewed hopes I gave it one last crank.  Success !
It started to run and I was as happy as a kid with a new bike.  Didnt run it but for 10 to 15 seconds as it started to move off
of the blocks that I have the frame on.  Seem like it took for ever for the thing to stop running after I shut of the injector pump.
Next step is to start to make a heat exchanger.

12
Engines / Valve Clearance
« on: April 11, 2009, 05:38:28 AM »
Ok Im getting ready to try to start my Powerline 12/1 and I need to set the valve clearances.  The manual that came with the engine doesnt have the info in it for a 12/1.  Nor does the web site at poweranand,com    Anyone with a 12/1 got clearances?

13
Engines / Re: Camshaft gear
« on: March 30, 2009, 06:38:27 AM »
Ok just checked the location of the bad tooth. 
It appears to start to engage just after the exhaust starts to close on the non loaded side.
There doesnt look like anything is loading up until the tooth clears.   So Im going to leave it in.  I know I should replace it to be on the safe side but Im getting real tired of buying new parts for a new engine.  Its going to work or its going to the junk heap.

Bill the rod moves on the crank (rotation) a little stiff not real loose. I can set it upright on the crank and it will stay put.  If I move it off center a little it will loose its balance but not real fast.  As far as side clearance on the crank it is slim to none.  There is nothing I can do further to the crank if every part is different.  I had the crank polished and new std rod bearings ordered.  Assy the rod with the new bearings and it had a huge gap in the connecting rod shell while the bearings were tight.  If I knew that the bearings were always perfect I would have the rod bored out to get rid of the shims 

14
Engines / Re: Camshaft gear
« on: March 29, 2009, 03:46:24 PM »
All gears are cast no bronze.  Not checked any thing yet.  I bought plasti gauge to check the big end but decided what the heck.  I took std bearings out and put std back in and put the shims that were there before back too (2 under one side 1 under the other). Its stiff but I can turn it by hand.  Im using assymbley lube on all the bearings.  Ill look at the position of the cam tooth.  I guess I should have got a case and all the parts and started from scratch.  I mean it wouldnt have taken expensive equipment (none at all) just a pair of eyballs to have solved 85% of these issues,15% if they would clean them first and use fresh oil.
Oh Crap they are a nuke nation!!!!

15
Engines / Camshaft gear
« on: March 29, 2009, 06:33:53 AM »
Well I have started to put my 12/1 powerline back together.  While I was cleaning the sharp edges an left ovet metal of the cam gear I found one tooth that must have had some bad casting.  About 1/4 to 1/3 of the tooth is gone from one end of the gear.  I cleaned it up with a dremel tool in hopes that I could get it ti work.  Now Im wandering if that is a good idea to try and save the gear.  I dont know how much of a strain that would put on that tooth.
There is a lot of crap in  this engine that could have been caught if only a little time was spent inspecting the quality.  Im no expert just visual looking could have gone a long way.

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